Can you buy a balsa strop or do you have to make them?
Can you buy a balsa strop or do you have to make them?
Great tip. I imagine that the need for a stable backing is determined by the local weather. Are you in a stable and dry climate?I have been using raw balsa strips for a decade with excellent results. But some 1/4" X 2" wide hard balsa, sand both surfaces so they are relatively flat and then charge them with the abrasive you want.... all done. No need for any type of backing or anything else. Mine range between 8" and 24" long though all were 2 feet long before some were cut down for convenience.
Absolutely nothing wrong with other methods, some using backing and wider balsa but it is not necessary and I find the longer, narrower strips of balsa easier to hold and use. I personally use a 'V' stroke, starting with the heel of the razor against the bottom edge of the balsa and do sets of 'V' strokes such that the toe of the razor comes about 1/2 way down the balsa and then back up again, all with a very slight movement toward the spine of the razor. Then I finish with about 10 strokes just dragging the razor 'down' the balsa, again with movement almost inline with the spine. Just the slightest movement down the balsa strip to make sure the edge is never, ever moved toward the balsa.
So no, you do not have to 'make a balsa strop' but instead just use a piece of raw balsa, prep it by sanding it flat on both sides, then applying abrasive. My balsa 'strops' are easily 10 years old and still function as new with only the very occasional sanding to re- flatten them.
I have been using raw balsa strips for a decade with excellent results. But some 1/4" X 2" wide hard balsa, sand both surfaces so they are relatively flat and then charge them with the abrasive you want.... all done. No need for any type of backing or anything else. Mine range between 8" and 24" long though all were 2 feet long before some were cut down for convenience.
Absolutely nothing wrong with other methods, some using backing and wider balsa but it is not necessary and I find the longer, narrower strips of balsa easier to hold and use. I personally use a 'V' stroke, starting with the heel of the razor against the bottom edge of the balsa and do sets of 'V' strokes such that the toe of the razor comes about 1/2 way down the balsa and then back up again, all with a very slight movement toward the spine of the razor. Then I finish with about 10 strokes just dragging the razor 'down' the balsa, again with movement almost inline with the spine. Just the slightest movement down the balsa strip to make sure the edge is never, ever moved toward the balsa.
So no, you do not have to 'make a balsa strop' but instead just use a piece of raw balsa, prep it by sanding it flat on both sides, then applying abrasive. My balsa 'strops' are easily 10 years old and still function as new with only the very occasional sanding to re- flatten them.
They definitely will work. They just won’t be as dimensional stable and could warp with changes in humidity.So in your opinion, would a balsa block work in the same way? I've seen balsa blocks at a craft store and wondered if those would work after being sanded/lapped.
What do you think about using those instead of applying a thinner sheet of balsa to another surface?
They definitely will work. They just won’t be as dimensional stable and could warp with changes in humidity.
For a long time I only had a backing on my 0.1 micron strop that gets used daily. The 0.25 and 0.5 micron strops are really only required for initial set up. You may choose to not bother with a backing on these and simply lap them before each use. Those uses may be very infrequent if you don’t buy new razors often.
The big blocks of balsa do cost quite a bit more though. A standard length of the thin stuff is good for three strops. While your at it, it’s almost as easy to make three as it is to make one. It might take a little longer but the material cost is about the same to do them all properly. Probably a little less depending what you pay for acrylic.
Can you buy a balsa strop or do you have to make them?
You could always trim and square off your finger tips .The backing should be THICK enough so that your fingertips are not in line with the razor. And no, you do not rest the balsa on a bench or countertop or other fixed object. You hold it in hand. ....
Balsa Strop 3" x 11"
This balsa strop pad has a magnetic back and can easily be used with the Richmond hone base. The idea behind balsa wood as a strop medium is that a balsa surface is soft but rigid. When you apply compound you are creating a custom honing surface. The compound particles embed and stay in place...www.chefknivestogo.com
@BDF I'm sure that you plain balsa strops work well for you and that you get edges that you are satisfied with. I have never tried them to compare. I dare say that you also have not tried the 75mm x 300mm properly backed pasted balsa to compare.
I am very happy with the results I get from pasted balsa using the Method. I see no reason to try anything else, probably like you.
Some others have tried and compared properly backed balsa and thick unbacked balsa. So far no one appears to have reported that unbacked balsa works as well or better that properly backed balsa. Many of those who have compared have reported that they get better long-term results with properly backed balsa.
The main thing is to enjoy whatever you are happy with and gives you the results you strive for.
I have tried balsa that is not as wide. I find the 75mm wide balsa easiest to use and 64mm wide jusr usable with practice. Again, use whatever you are happiest with.
Great tip. I imagine that the need for a stable backing is determined by the local weather. Are you in a stable and dry climate?
So in your opinion, would a balsa block work in the same way? I've seen balsa blocks at a craft store and wondered if those would work after being sanded/lapped.
What do you think about using those instead of applying a thinner sheet of balsa to another surface?
Not sure what you mean by a balsa block
Congratulations.
Maybe you are missing the point of backing the balsa with a solid substrate. It is not to 0revent the balsa from bending while being used. It is to help prevent the balsa from warping due to changes in humility/temperature. An alternative to SLA solid substrate is the more regularly lap the balsa flat and reapply the paste.
As for width, I prefer 75mm for my pasted balsa and about 65mm for my strops. This is a personal choice and reflects on a person's stropping style.
This is what I purchased, lapped and pasted. It's a balsa block and it seems to take the need for an acrylic backing right out of the equation.