Can you buy a balsa strop or do you have to make them?
Balsa strop
- Thread starter Hawkeye_90
- Start date
Not sure if you can buy them. But they are easy to make.
Instructions are here:
www.badgerandblade.com
Instructions are here:
How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop
Can i sand the balsa with a diamont plate i have one 600 and one small dmt 1200?
www.badgerandblade.com
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
That time is coming.
I have been using raw balsa strips for a decade with excellent results. But some 1/4" X 2" wide hard balsa, sand both surfaces so they are relatively flat and then charge them with the abrasive you want.... all done. No need for any type of backing or anything else. Mine range between 8" and 24" long though all were 2 feet long before some were cut down for convenience.
Absolutely nothing wrong with other methods, some using backing and wider balsa but it is not necessary and I find the longer, narrower strips of balsa easier to hold and use. I personally use a 'V' stroke, starting with the heel of the razor against the bottom edge of the balsa and do sets of 'V' strokes such that the toe of the razor comes about 1/2 way down the balsa and then back up again, all with a very slight movement toward the spine of the razor. Then I finish with about 10 strokes just dragging the razor 'down' the balsa, again with movement almost inline with the spine. Just the slightest movement down the balsa strip to make sure the edge is never, ever moved toward the balsa.
So no, you do not have to 'make a balsa strop' but instead just use a piece of raw balsa, prep it by sanding it flat on both sides, then applying abrasive. My balsa 'strops' are easily 10 years old and still function as new with only the very occasional sanding to re- flatten them.
Absolutely nothing wrong with other methods, some using backing and wider balsa but it is not necessary and I find the longer, narrower strips of balsa easier to hold and use. I personally use a 'V' stroke, starting with the heel of the razor against the bottom edge of the balsa and do sets of 'V' strokes such that the toe of the razor comes about 1/2 way down the balsa and then back up again, all with a very slight movement toward the spine of the razor. Then I finish with about 10 strokes just dragging the razor 'down' the balsa, again with movement almost inline with the spine. Just the slightest movement down the balsa strip to make sure the edge is never, ever moved toward the balsa.
So no, you do not have to 'make a balsa strop' but instead just use a piece of raw balsa, prep it by sanding it flat on both sides, then applying abrasive. My balsa 'strops' are easily 10 years old and still function as new with only the very occasional sanding to re- flatten them.
They definitely will work. They just won’t be as dimensional stable and could warp with changes in humidity.
For a long time I only had a backing on my 0.1 micron strop that gets used daily. The 0.25 and 0.5 micron strops are really only required for initial set up. You may choose to not bother with a backing on these and simply lap them before each use. Those uses may be very infrequent if you don’t buy new razors often.
The big blocks of balsa do cost quite a bit more though. A standard length of the thin stuff is good for three strops. While your at it, it’s almost as easy to make three as it is to make one. It might take a little longer but the material cost is about the same to do them all properly. Probably a little less depending what you pay for acrylic.
Thank you for your input. I think that for me, something like a block of balsa would be easier to use for some reason.
Balsa Strop 3" x 11"
This balsa strop pad has a magnetic back and can easily be used with the Richmond hone base. The idea behind balsa wood as a strop medium is that a balsa surface is soft but rigid. When you apply compound you are creating a custom honing surface. The compound particles embed and stay in place...
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
@BDF I'm sure that you plain balsa strops work well for you and that you get edges that you are satisfied with. I have never tried them to compare. I dare say that you also have not tried the 75mm x 300mm properly backed pasted balsa to compare.
I am very happy with the results I get from pasted balsa using the Method. I see no reason to try anything else, probably like you.
Some others have tried and compared properly backed balsa and thick unbacked balsa. So far no one appears to have reported that unbacked balsa works as well or better that properly backed balsa. Many of those who have compared have reported that they get better long-term results with properly backed balsa.
The main thing is to enjoy whatever you are happy with and gives you the results you strive for.
I have tried balsa that is not as wide. I find the 75mm wide balsa easiest to use and 64mm wide jusr usable with practice. Again, use whatever you are happiest with.
I am very happy with the results I get from pasted balsa using the Method. I see no reason to try anything else, probably like you.
Some others have tried and compared properly backed balsa and thick unbacked balsa. So far no one appears to have reported that unbacked balsa works as well or better that properly backed balsa. Many of those who have compared have reported that they get better long-term results with properly backed balsa.
The main thing is to enjoy whatever you are happy with and gives you the results you strive for.
I have tried balsa that is not as wide. I find the 75mm wide balsa easiest to use and 64mm wide jusr usable with practice. Again, use whatever you are happiest with.
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
The backing should be THICK enough so that your fingertips are not in line with the razor. And no, you do not rest the balsa on a bench or countertop or other fixed object. You hold it in hand. Wood is definitely out. Acrylic is rigid enough, light enough, rugged enough, and cheap enough, and it is also flat enough to use for film, so get four, not just three acrylic pieces, 3" x" x 12". 1/4" thick balsa is a good compromise between the possible uneven swelling of thicker stock, and frequent replacement due to repeated lapping. The thread tells all.
Remember, the acrylic won't break when you drop it, and it can't wear out because the razor does not even touch it. Acrylic prices have gone up a lot but when you consider it will last forever, it is still chimp change.
Remember, the acrylic won't break when you drop it, and it can't wear out because the razor does not even touch it. Acrylic prices have gone up a lot but when you consider it will last forever, it is still chimp change.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
You could always trim and square off your finger tips
.Balsa Strop 3" x 11"
This balsa strop pad has a magnetic back and can easily be used with the Richmond hone base. The idea behind balsa wood as a strop medium is that a balsa surface is soft but rigid. When you apply compound you are creating a custom honing surface. The compound particles embed and stay in place...www.chefknivestogo.com
Thank you for the link. I was also able to find balsa blocks at Hobby Lobby for $6.00 a piece. No need for an acrylic backing. Just sand/lap, prep and "Bob's your uncle."
I have tried backed balsa and found it made no difference. Thinking it through, there is no reason why it should make a difference. If one is using enough pressure to bend the balsa then it is too much for a fine finish in my opinion and experience.
I find using balsa that is as wide as a razor is long to result in a bit of rounding at the tip of the razor. When using a piece that is 2" wide, the toe of the razor is not on the balsa 100% of the time so it is not on the balsa longer than other parts of the razor. I find this too is beneficial. The only thing that I have found wider material benefits from is when using pasted leather or cloth. Then I find 3" wide material is perfect, I lay the material down on a countertop and strop as usual when using plain leather, but lighter pressure. And while I find this does work very, very well, I also find draw strokes on balsa works better as a final finish.
I do not choose methods that 'make me happy' but instead always look for efficient solutions to any given problem. My own experience has shown me that the 'best' honed razor is the sharpest one I can possibly have, and 0.1 micron delivers that to me. 0.25 and 0.5 micron diamond also yields a fantastically sharp edge but those two sizes, especially 0.25 micron diamond delivers a harsh, 'grabby' shave that is tough on my skin.
I am not really responding to you so much as trying to put information out to others who may be considering any or all of this. As always, I suggest people evaluate any and all information for reasonableness (put another way, do a 'sense check' on any information..... literally after thinking about it, does it even make sense on the surface of it?). Then try different things and consider what may be going on to get to a place that makes sense and solves the problem in the simplest, easiest way.
I find using balsa that is as wide as a razor is long to result in a bit of rounding at the tip of the razor. When using a piece that is 2" wide, the toe of the razor is not on the balsa 100% of the time so it is not on the balsa longer than other parts of the razor. I find this too is beneficial. The only thing that I have found wider material benefits from is when using pasted leather or cloth. Then I find 3" wide material is perfect, I lay the material down on a countertop and strop as usual when using plain leather, but lighter pressure. And while I find this does work very, very well, I also find draw strokes on balsa works better as a final finish.
I do not choose methods that 'make me happy' but instead always look for efficient solutions to any given problem. My own experience has shown me that the 'best' honed razor is the sharpest one I can possibly have, and 0.1 micron delivers that to me. 0.25 and 0.5 micron diamond also yields a fantastically sharp edge but those two sizes, especially 0.25 micron diamond delivers a harsh, 'grabby' shave that is tough on my skin.
I am not really responding to you so much as trying to put information out to others who may be considering any or all of this. As always, I suggest people evaluate any and all information for reasonableness (put another way, do a 'sense check' on any information..... literally after thinking about it, does it even make sense on the surface of it?). Then try different things and consider what may be going on to get to a place that makes sense and solves the problem in the simplest, easiest way.
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rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
@BDF I am glad that you have found a system that works for you. That's what counts.
Congratulations.
Maybe you are missing the point of backing the balsa with a solid substrate. It is not to 0revent the balsa from bending while being used. It is to help prevent the balsa from warping due to changes in humility/temperature. An alternative to SLA solid substrate is the more regularly lap the balsa flat and reapply the paste.
As for width, I prefer 75mm for my pasted balsa and about 65mm for my strops. This is a personal choice and reflects on a person's stropping style.
Congratulations.
Maybe you are missing the point of backing the balsa with a solid substrate. It is not to 0revent the balsa from bending while being used. It is to help prevent the balsa from warping due to changes in humility/temperature. An alternative to SLA solid substrate is the more regularly lap the balsa flat and reapply the paste.
As for width, I prefer 75mm for my pasted balsa and about 65mm for my strops. This is a personal choice and reflects on a person's stropping style.
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No, actually I am in southern New England, on the coast, and it is absolutely not dry here. But the changes in humidity inside the house are slow enough that wood does not warp and so far, has not had any impact on my balsa strips that I can detect.
Also, stacks of balsa at the local hobby shops do not move, at least not visible to the eye, with changing humidity. It appears that it is just not a problem.
Not sure what you mean by a balsa block but in my opinion and experience, any piece of raw balsa thick enough to support itself will do. If the block is thick enough, you can hold it by the bottom while using the top surface as a strop. Otherwise, just get a long enough piece of balsa that you can hold it and have enough length left to use it as a strop without getting too close to the hand holding the strop. As far as rigidity, I typically use 2" wide, hard balsa either 1/4" or 1/2" thick. With hard balsa, this is enough to be considered 'rigid' in my opinion for the task at hand; if you use enough pressure to visibly bend the balsa you are probably using too much pressure. Honing on balsa is a very low pressure process, merely dragging the razor over the balsa to put a final edge on the razor, anything beyond that calls for actual honing on a ridged hone or surface under a piece of film. Modern synthetic abrasives cut extremely efficiently so it does not take much movement against the balsa to finish an edge; I typically do 'V' strokes in sets of five, three and two then go over to what I call draw strokes which is simply moving the razor from the heel to the toe nearly in- line with the spine. The only lateral moment used is simply to ensure that razor is absolutely NOT moving toward the edge.
Also, stacks of balsa at the local hobby shops do not move, at least not visible to the eye, with changing humidity. It appears that it is just not a problem.
Not sure what you mean by a balsa block but in my opinion and experience, any piece of raw balsa thick enough to support itself will do. If the block is thick enough, you can hold it by the bottom while using the top surface as a strop. Otherwise, just get a long enough piece of balsa that you can hold it and have enough length left to use it as a strop without getting too close to the hand holding the strop. As far as rigidity, I typically use 2" wide, hard balsa either 1/4" or 1/2" thick. With hard balsa, this is enough to be considered 'rigid' in my opinion for the task at hand; if you use enough pressure to visibly bend the balsa you are probably using too much pressure. Honing on balsa is a very low pressure process, merely dragging the razor over the balsa to put a final edge on the razor, anything beyond that calls for actual honing on a ridged hone or surface under a piece of film. Modern synthetic abrasives cut extremely efficiently so it does not take much movement against the balsa to finish an edge; I typically do 'V' strokes in sets of five, three and two then go over to what I call draw strokes which is simply moving the razor from the heel to the toe nearly in- line with the spine. The only lateral moment used is simply to ensure that razor is absolutely NOT moving toward the edge.
This is what I purchased, lapped and pasted. It's a balsa block and it seems to take the need for an acrylic backing right out of the equation.
I am not chasing happiness but rather results. For happiness, I spend time with my grandkids, go to the range and various other things. As to edges on shaving razors, I am after results which are basically the best possible shave with the least possible irritation or discomfort. I have found that uber- sharp razors provide me with those shaving results and so I pursue them but also try to use the simplest, easiest and fewest steps in the process to get there. Balsa stock, charged with 0.1 micron CBN yields that for me and I find additions such as balsa backing, a gazillion 'no pressure' strokes add nothing to my razors edges. 18 light pressure, very short X strokes, followed by 10 straight draw strokes (across the balsa with almost no lateral movement) generate an edge that I find superior to any other. I have no doubt that using backed balsa, long 'no pressure' strokes can and would yield the same but again, what is the advantage in making the process more complicated than need be for no gain? You yourself have recently found that stropping on leather yields either no improvement or an imperceptible one after leaving charged balsa but "the method" does not allow for that to be omitted. As Mr. Lincoln said, paraphrased 'Both sides may be but one side must be wrong' referring to the fact that all combatants in a war claim that God is on their side.
I believe what I am doing will work for anyone. The only reason I present it at all is to provide a simple, quick and in my opinion and experience, perfectly valid method that will put as good an edge or perhaps an even better edge than other, more complex setups. An example is what some people believe are the 'powers' of a pyramid. I am sure stropping a razor on charged balsa inside a pyramid would work perfectly well but the pyramid has absolutely nothing to contribute. All I am trying to say is that there are absolutely things that contribute to a process but often times they are accompanied by other things, often many other things, that have no influence or value to a process.
And of course I do not consider what I am doing to be any type of 'method', though if I were to name it I would call it 'The Most Superior Method' just to ward off lesser types. ROFLMAO- there is no emoticon for that and more is the pity.
And I fully agree, someone is missing the point and of course it may well be me: again, my purpose is to mention simple and easy techniques that work as well if not better than other, more complex and frankly very narrowly defined things that are stated as not to be deviated from if one expects good results. If the point is to project ego and a lot of 'hocus pocus' then yes, I am missing that point entirely. Many, many people knew the Earth was flat 500 years ago, and far too many even today but that does not carry any logical or reasonable weight in a discussion or even thinking about the subject.
@BDF I am glad that you have found a system that works for you. That's what counts.
I believe what I am doing will work for anyone. The only reason I present it at all is to provide a simple, quick and in my opinion and experience, perfectly valid method that will put as good an edge or perhaps an even better edge than other, more complex setups. An example is what some people believe are the 'powers' of a pyramid. I am sure stropping a razor on charged balsa inside a pyramid would work perfectly well but the pyramid has absolutely nothing to contribute. All I am trying to say is that there are absolutely things that contribute to a process but often times they are accompanied by other things, often many other things, that have no influence or value to a process.
And of course I do not consider what I am doing to be any type of 'method', though if I were to name it I would call it 'The Most Superior Method' just to ward off lesser types. ROFLMAO- there is no emoticon for that and more is the pity.
And I fully agree, someone is missing the point and of course it may well be me: again, my purpose is to mention simple and easy techniques that work as well if not better than other, more complex and frankly very narrowly defined things that are stated as not to be deviated from if one expects good results. If the point is to project ego and a lot of 'hocus pocus' then yes, I am missing that point entirely. Many, many people knew the Earth was flat 500 years ago, and far too many even today but that does not carry any logical or reasonable weight in a discussion or even thinking about the subject.
@BDF I am glad that you have found a system that works for you. That's what counts.
Ah. Yes, absolutely. The only down side is that balsa that thick and wide is usually soft balsa, easy to identify by being very white and not having any visible grain. Soft balsa absolutely work perfectly but you will have to be careful to use very little pressure so as not to leave compressed areas in the balsa. I normally prefer hard balsa specifically because it will not easily compress but again soft balsa will work find if you are gentle with it.
Balsa varies wildly in hardness and density; very soft balsa is easy to compress between finger and thumb, not unlike Styrofoam. Hard balsa is not readily compressible through hand pressure. And I am not talking about Olympics weight lifters here- any average, non- athletic woman can leave finger and thumb pad depressions in soft balsa using one hand and not grunting
But still, be gentle and that block of balsa will last two lifetimes.
Enjoy the experience of balsa stropping! In my own opinion, it makes it easy to get truly amazing edges on razors with nothing more than just a little care and can be done in a few minutes right in your 'shaving den' (bathroom ) No setup, no break-down and nothing else needed- just a minute or two of gentle strokes on the charged balsa and you can maintain a truly outstanding edge on your razor(s) indefinitely.
Best of luck going forward and hopefully lots of satisfaction keeping your razors in excellent sharpness and comfortable shaving condition.
Balsa varies wildly in hardness and density; very soft balsa is easy to compress between finger and thumb, not unlike Styrofoam. Hard balsa is not readily compressible through hand pressure. And I am not talking about Olympics weight lifters here- any average, non- athletic woman can leave finger and thumb pad depressions in soft balsa using one hand and not grunting
But still, be gentle and that block of balsa will last two lifetimes.
Enjoy the experience of balsa stropping! In my own opinion, it makes it easy to get truly amazing edges on razors with nothing more than just a little care and can be done in a few minutes right in your 'shaving den' (bathroom
) No setup, no break-down and nothing else needed- just a minute or two of gentle strokes on the charged balsa and you can maintain a truly outstanding edge on your razor(s) indefinitely.Best of luck going forward and hopefully lots of satisfaction keeping your razors in excellent sharpness and comfortable shaving condition.
