Do you intend taking this apart?I still need to order some repinning materials.
I do not have access to >2000 W&D, 00 and 0000 steel wool or Mother's polish. I was thinking that after 2k W&D I would use 0.5μm diamond paste, that I do have.If I see any red oxide, I sand with WD-40. Otherwise, with or without oil is personal preference. I would not recommend using water as you would want to make sure none remained in the pivot hole.
220/240 might remove more of the black oxide. When you get to 2000, the blade begins to take on a sheen. My normal progression is 220/240, 400, 800, 1200, 2000 and 2500 followed by 00 and 0000 steel woool, followed by Mothers polish.
Frank
To be honest 2k is enough to make it super smooth and shiny. For that extra boost I sometimes use micromesh up to 12k but 12k on a blade really isn't necessary, on scales yeah but not the blade.I do not have access to >2000 W&D, 00 and 0000 steel wool or Mother's polish. I was thinking that after 2k W&D I would use 0.5μm diamond paste, that I do have.
I would like to dismantle the SR, particularly at the pivot pin, so as to give the blade a good cleanup. Yes, it will be my first time. This is my cheapest SR (USD 10) so I thought that it would be a good one to learn repinning on.Do you intend taking this apart?
For an optimal clean you'd really need to disassemble it but if it's your first time I'd do it on another razor or even 2 icepop sticks.
I should have access to Brasso but I am not sure if that will work on high cardon steel.To be honest 2k is enough to make it super smooth and shiny. For that extra boost I sometimes use micromesh up to 12k but 12k on a blade really isn't necessary, on scales yeah but not the blade.
Mother's is just metal polish, and any metal polish will do. I'd imagine any hardware store would have some.
With metal polish it really is a rinse and repeat exercise, keep rinsing and repeating until you're A) Happy or B) sick of it.
Good, you're all in then.I would like to dismantle the SR, particularly at the pivot pin, so as to give the blade a good cleanup. Yes, it will be my first time. This is my cheapest SR (USD 10) so I thought that it would be a good one to learn repinning on.
Depending on how mushroomed the pin is I think you may loose a collar filing it off. The pin will deform as you file and you'll have no option but to start filing the collar itself so if you go this route try and keep the showside collar 100% intact. (Closely examine both sides and see which one is in the best condition) This means when you're filing the non-showside to disassemble put something protective under the showside so as not to scratch it up, a folded rag or anything will do.No drilling should be required. My thinking is that all I have to do is file the peening on the pivot pin and remove it to disassemble the blade from the scales. Once the blade is cleaned up, I would reassemble and fit a new brass pivot pin.
It wont do anything.I should have access to Brasso but I am not sure if that will work on high cardon steel.
The nearest Bunnings is over 100km from where I am. I'll see if I can find it in the auto section of the local big-boys toy store.It wont do anything.
Bunnings sells Autosol. That works much better.
I do not have access to >2000 W&D, 00 and 0000 steel wool or Mother's polish. I was thinking that after 2k W&D I would use 0.5μm diamond paste, that I do have.
The easiest way to unpin without damaging scales is to file a flat on the pin head, punch a center hole and drill with a single flute 1/16th in Center Drill in a drill press, (couple dollars). Often you can drill the pinhead and save the collar with a few light taps light taps.
A 1/16-inch Center Drill is twice as thick as a drill bit and will not flex, the single flute will track and drill a straight starter hole, once you have a good, centered starter divot, use a drill bit, the bit will then drill a straight hole.
If you try to drill with just a 1/16-inch drill bit, it will flex and likely skip off the center punch hole and into the scale.