Pretty sure I have this same hone also Ian. My opinion is about the same as yours. The hone can run more to the 5k side if you push with some decent pressure and it starts to form a little slurry, but a little finer if you use very little pressure and keep a slurry from forming. Is yours a little on the softer side of the spectrum?
My shave results; edge comparisons.
- Thread starter SliceOfLife
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Pretty sure I have this same hone also Ian. My opinion is about the same as yours. The hone can run more to the 5k side if you push with some decent pressure and it starts to form a little slurry, but a little finer if you use very little pressure and keep a slurry from forming. Is yours a little on the softer side of the spectrum?
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- #262
For a high grit Jsynth, yeah. I wouldn't call it soft compared to a lot of what I use though. Definitely not as soft as a good number of the barbers synths I've tried.
Quite a nice hone and perfectly usable, but I'd definitely take a Sigma Power over it any day of the week.
Quite a nice hone and perfectly usable, but I'd definitely take a Sigma Power over it any day of the week.
There are a lot of different types of binders, or bonds, used in synthetic (man-made) hones. Vitrified bonds are those that form a sort of glass-like substance. Clay, some ceramics etc. Then there are resin bonds - those can be made from epoxy or even rubber or plastics. Shellac is another. There are even metal bond hones.
Thanks for that, and I hope this is on topic and not derailing slice’s post.
I ask that because I used to work with a guy in a materials lab who looked at the breakdown of calcined clays (which I suspected was a binder in most “ceramic“ stones) and also cements and concretes. In our discussions he explained they all break down rather rapidly (less than hundred years) and almost always due to expansion/contraction.....which is caused by many things. Heat, moisture, chemicals, oxidation, etc. He traveled the world collecting samples from ruins analyzing composition and weathering.
I say this because I bet all of your theoretical causes are part of the equation. I’m afraid with time they all take their toll and even in small experiments it is hard to replicate the effects of time. I’ve always wanted to see what some of these barber hones were like when new. I bet quite different. They seem to have a shelf life to me with a few lucky ones that age well.
I hope you do this experiment. Results may show what conditions to avoid at the least.
I ask that because I used to work with a guy in a materials lab who looked at the breakdown of calcined clays (which I suspected was a binder in most “ceramic“ stones) and also cements and concretes. In our discussions he explained they all break down rather rapidly (less than hundred years) and almost always due to expansion/contraction.....which is caused by many things. Heat, moisture, chemicals, oxidation, etc. He traveled the world collecting samples from ruins analyzing composition and weathering.
I say this because I bet all of your theoretical causes are part of the equation. I’m afraid with time they all take their toll and even in small experiments it is hard to replicate the effects of time. I’ve always wanted to see what some of these barber hones were like when new. I bet quite different. They seem to have a shelf life to me with a few lucky ones that age well.
I hope you do this experiment. Results may show what conditions to avoid at the least.
Yes, I'm sure that's why most manufacturers of lots of different products recommend a "cool, dry place" for storage. I would add that a cool, dry and stable temperature environment would probably be the best of all possible combinations. Constant expansion and contraction due to thermal fluctuation can't be good for too many materials in terms of shelf life and longevity.
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- #267
Natural stones just keep looking better and better.
Interestingly, the synth Cotis (Not counting the JGES which are just junk) have always been pretty consistently good in my experience. Even though the texture varies a great deal, I've seen no "breakdown" like I see with many other barber synths... suggesting that certain types are much more susceptible to it than others. Likewise the Sintered quartz Bracketts hones seem immune.
Interestingly, the synth Cotis (Not counting the JGES which are just junk) have always been pretty consistently good in my experience. Even though the texture varies a great deal, I've seen no "breakdown" like I see with many other barber synths... suggesting that certain types are much more susceptible to it than others. Likewise the Sintered quartz Bracketts hones seem immune.
Why did that Swaty just sell for 70 bucks? The box and paperwork?
Which?
Pike Swaty Hone in Box with Paperwork | eBay
Good condition, light wear looks like it has barely if ever been used.
www.ebay.com
Has to be the paperwork.
The hone looks compromised.
Normally when something goes way above worth it is because the bidders don't know better but these bidders are not new to this so????
Makes no sense. I wouldn't give 10.00 for it
The hone looks compromised.
Normally when something goes way above worth it is because the bidders don't know better but these bidders are not new to this so????
Makes no sense. I wouldn't give 10.00 for it
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- #272
Yeah they are buying that ad booklet. I've not seen one before.
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- #273
Not much to report lately. Scored a couple Panama and Lakeside stones to test... tested one of each so far and performance was consistent with prior examples.. Looking like they're relatively consistent.
I did score an Aloxite 79. I've tested them before and wasn't impressed but this one was NOS, so I figured I'd test again and get a collector piece... then seller shipped it loose in an envelope...
Amazingly it only lost two corners, and I was able to mostly glue them back in place... but what a waste of a stone that survived 100 years in perfect condition. Third stone in a month the seller dumped in an envelope and let get smashed (different seller each time). I'll test it out soon and if I can complete the shave (a big if with most carborundum co razor hones) I'll add it.
I did score an Aloxite 79. I've tested them before and wasn't impressed but this one was NOS, so I figured I'd test again and get a collector piece... then seller shipped it loose in an envelope...
Amazingly it only lost two corners, and I was able to mostly glue them back in place... but what a waste of a stone that survived 100 years in perfect condition. Third stone in a month the seller dumped in an envelope and let get smashed (different seller each time). I'll test it out soon and if I can complete the shave (a big if with most carborundum co razor hones) I'll add it.
- Thread starter
- #274
Aloxite 79 got to cheat. Like I did with the Ruby hone for its retest, I went to the Aloxite with a finished razor (took the lakeside finish from yesterday right to it). Used it dry as it instructs and it did very little... teeny tiny bit of swarf when I wiped the blade, but the shave was improved.
I'll retest it off the 8k ASAP... but going to it off the Lakeside was quite impressive.
47.5/50 comfort
46.5/50 closeness
94/100 overall
Really close to the Panama overall, and blows away anything Carborundum Co I've used before. Will have to confirm it can do this off an 8k before I get too excited though.
I'll retest it off the 8k ASAP... but going to it off the Lakeside was quite impressive.
47.5/50 comfort
46.5/50 closeness
94/100 overall
Really close to the Panama overall, and blows away anything Carborundum Co I've used before. Will have to confirm it can do this off an 8k before I get too excited though.
- Thread starter
- #275
Repeat on the 79 off the 8k this time... and it's not as good as going to it off a finisher, but it's still a decent finisher. Maybe the kind of stone to do 3-5 passes on after each shave and it'll continually improve until it hits its sweet spot and sits there? Not sure. But a worthwhile pickup if you need a cheap little finisher until you can snag something better.
45/50 comfort
44/50 Closeness
89/100 overall
45/50 comfort
44/50 Closeness
89/100 overall
Well, on a whim I tried shaving off the coarse side of the hickory version today and damn if it wasn't a really nice shaving edge.
Amazing really, considering it is the coarse side of a barber hone.
90% of the finish sides of most barber hones are outclassed by the coarse side of this hone.
Remarkable.
It is the only coarse side I would even consider when looking at them under a microscope, hell, there are many finish sides I would not shave with based on what they look like under the scope.
If anyone has one - give it a go.
I was talking about the Panama older version (hickory) above.
Re-tested today under the scope.
Reset my test razor to 8k, then a 200+ stroke on the coarse side of the Panama old version.
Beautiful edge! Easily 8-10k, closer to the latter.
Shave tomorrow.
If anyone ever comes across the instructions for this hone please post it.
Reset my test razor to 8k, then a 200+ stroke on the coarse side of the Panama old version.
Beautiful edge! Easily 8-10k, closer to the latter.
Shave tomorrow.
If anyone ever comes across the instructions for this hone please post it.
I bought a Panama hone online a while back with the Black side as the finisher and stamped on the coarse in hopes it would be the hickory version. Sadly even though the stamp looked identical to yours, the black side does not look like your beautiful swirled version in this thread. It is in decent condition and someone sure breadknifed alot of razors using it, which means they likely liked it alot.
The coarse side is pretty fine feeling and the black side feels completely smooth with a bit if gumminess? Im not sure how much abrasiviness the black has. I havent properly tested the coarse side. According to my notes I used the blackside 3 times: 100 passes with water, 200 with water, and 100 with soap lather.The razor bevels looked identical to the start and Im not sure if there was much effect on the shave. Maybe a tiniest bit smoother than the 10k synth edge. I was going to next try some further cleaning or refreshing but couldnt figure out the safest or best way.
I would of loved to have the hickory/peterfied wood version and will keep my eyes open. It seems there are multiple versions of this hone. My instructions say "Black Ebony" for finishing and I think the peterfied/hickory versions might say something different. Ill have to test the coase some.
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Thank you.
That is the same instructions I have found as well.
What you have seems to be the hickory version. Not sure if there is more than the two types, but if yours is stamped on the tan side then I think its the hickory.
This link has the instructions that are written by the seller but seems to be quoted.
www.worthpoint.com
Try the coarse side as a finisher.
The "wood" side of mine is very slow but does smooth edges out. Very little cutting power but it does cut.
I understand the need for only 2-3 strokes on the finish side as it almost acts like a strop
That is the same instructions I have found as well.
What you have seems to be the hickory version. Not sure if there is more than the two types, but if yours is stamped on the tan side then I think its the hickory.
This link has the instructions that are written by the seller but seems to be quoted.
Panama Hone - Double Sided Combination Barber Hone | #325358041
Panama Hone - Double Sided Combination Barber Hone The hone is labeled Panama Hone, P. O. Box 518, Chicago, price $3.00. Hone measures 4 7/8 x 2 x 3/8 and weighs 4 ¾ ounces. This barber's hone ha
www.worthpoint.com
Try the coarse side as a finisher.
The "wood" side of mine is very slow but does smooth edges out. Very little cutting power but it does cut.
I understand the need for only 2-3 strokes on the finish side as it almost acts like a strop
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