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Your favorite stone to set a bevel?

these days i use mostly naniwa 1000, however most of the time i don't consider the bevel work completed until i've been over the naniwa 5000, or some other intermediate level hone.

my observations with my d8e are that the bevel is rather polished, the furhest thing of 'horrid', actually. that may have something to do with how i've been using it though. I've actually had a pretty decent shave off that d8e hone some time ago, so I know that's not an irrelevant observation. But that was due to the razor.
 
these days i use mostly naniwa 1000, however most of the time i don't consider the bevel work completed until i've been over the naniwa 5000, or some other intermediate level hone.

my observations with my d8e are that the bevel is rather polished, the furhest thing of 'horrid', actually. that may have something to do with how i've been using it though. I've actually had a pretty decent shave off that d8e hone some time ago, so I know that's not an irrelevant observation. But that was due to the razor.

The 1200 stone or the 8k stone? The EE is the 8k one.
 
d8e = 1200
d8ee = 8000

whatever units dmt uses


Those would be mesh and micron , not grit .

The 8k "mesh" rating does not compare to a Japanese waterstone , Norton or Arkansas .

Mesh being the size of the strainer basket DMT uses to let the synthetic diamonds fall and be graded .


cityjim
 
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Those would be mesh and micron , not grit .

The 8k "mesh" rating does not compare to a Japanese waterstone , Norton or Arkansas .

Mesh being the size of the strainer basket DMT uses to let the synthetic diamonds fall and be graded .
those are actually du, which of course abbreviates dmt units. as far as the size of the basket goes i'll take the large one since it could be filled with more goodies.

also, you forgot to give us the recipe for grits.
 
those are actually du, which of course abbreviates dmt units. as far as the size of the basket goes i'll take the large one since it could be filled with more goodies.

also, you forgot to give us the recipe for grits.

The word grits comes from the Old English. "grytt", for "bran", but the Old English "greot" also meant something ground. Some cookbooks refer to grits as hominy because of regional preference for the name. Americans have been using the term "grits" since at least the end of the 18th century.

Alabama grits are often coarser, than say, the grits found in Georgia. But again, it all depends on who's cooking them.
 
The word grits comes from the Old English. "grytt", for "bran", but the Old English "greot" also meant something ground. Some cookbooks refer to grits as hominy because of regional preference for the name. Americans have been using the term "grits" since at least the end of the 18th century.
Very interesting. Incidentally Americans couldn't have used the term before then because at that time it could only be used by the British, French, Dutch, Spanish, and other colonizers, along with the natives.
I believe the very first american reference is a big hen-**** which clearly denotes the grytt they were fed.
 
Due to the many confusing discrepencies between JIS, mesh, ANSI, micron, etc, etc... there was once a bold move towards universal standardization. But that way was fraught with danger. One guy even lost an eye during the negotiations!





They made a documenatary movie of this bold proposal:
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I was honing up a razor this morning.

Here is the egde directly off of the DMT 1200.

I lowered the angle of the blade, so that I wasn't hiding any scratch patterns.
 

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I was honing up a razor this morning.

Here is the egde directly off of the DMT 1200.

I lowered the angle of the blade, so that I wasn't hiding any scratch patterns.

Reason number 1002 and why NOT to buy DMT products . :rolleyes:

Looks like you ran it down the curb a bit . lol



cityjim
 
Cityjim, can you post a pic of an edge directly of an Arkansas soft (600 ANSI grit), please?
To make a comparison. If not, it's ok, but I bet we'd all like to see the difference. Thanks.
 
Cityjim, can you post a pic of an edge directly of an Arkansas soft (600 ANSI grit), please?
To make a comparison. If not, it's ok, but I bet we'd all like to see the difference. Thanks.

That sounds like a good idea. You know the old saying, "Pics or it doesn't exist!".
 
That sounds like a good idea. You know the old saying, "Pics or it doesn't exist!".


It looks like Seraphim's finished edge above . I don't have a capable camera like Seraphim or I would already have done this . I only have a 60x - 100x pocket microscope .


You can buy a 6" x 2" 600 grit ANSI soft Arkansas stone at KMEsharp.com for $15.95 . See for yourself then report back here . Thanks for helping us out .

cityjim
 
Reason number 1002 and why NOT to buy DMT products . :rolleyes:

Looks like you ran it down the curb a bit . lol

cityjim

I would tend to agree, that edge has some deep scratches in it. But he never said he was even close to done with it. The important thing is that it's clean, with no chips. A 1200 grit DMT does a wonderful job of setting a bevel in a hurry, it just means that you need a fairly fast (and smooth) stone in the next stage of the honing to make sure that the scratches get smoother.

Personally, after my 1200 grit DMT, I like to go to the 4k side of my Norton. It's a fairly fast cutter, and leaves much finer scratches. I know Seraphim goes to an 8k DMT, and I have not used one myself so I don't know if the scratches are still deeper than normal 8k stones. I would guess that they probably are (the price one pays for diamonds), but not nearly as pronounced as at the 1200 grit stage. The thing is he uses a Naniwa 12k after the 8k, and I can attest that not only is it a pretty fast cutter, it also leaves a scratch pattern that is glassy smooth.

The end result is going to be the same, the difference is how comfortable the shave may or may not be "in the middle." But, seeing as the only time you shave in the middle of a progression is to test the blade, I don't see how that's relevant.

IMO the only time a rough scratch pattern during the bevel stage is a huge problem is if the stone in the next stage is not a fast cutter. Then it's just going to take longer.

As for grit ratings, yes they are all over the map, but as long as the conversion between two different grit systems is even in the same ball park, there is some margin for error.
 
It looks like Seraphim's finished edge above . I don't have a capable camera like Seraphim or I would already have done this . I only have a 60x - 100x pocket microscope .


You can buy a 6" x 2" 600 grit ANSI soft Arkansas stone at KMEsharp.com for $15.95 . See for yourself then report back here . Thanks for helping us out .

cityjim

Thanks for the link, but I already have a complete set of Arkansas hones; Washita, Soft, Hard, Surgical Black, and a pink Translucent. They used to be Grandpa's. I've been using them since 1957 or 58 (I learned how to hone on them). If they were faster, I would use them on my razors much more often. The DMTs' speed is far superior, and gets me to the finish hone faster.

I did use them on razors back in the 50's and 60's, and maybe 3-4 times over the last 2 years; briefly. I can report that the finer Arkansas grits are "way slower" than the DMTs. The Washita or Soft work a little faster. One can set a bevel with those two, but other options are still faster. If a member enjoys doing 100 to 200 strokes on a Chinese 12k, they will love using the Arkansas Black or Translucent.

If anyone wants to try some thicker Arkansas hones, this is a good alternate vendor: Hall's Pro-Edge.

You're welcome anytime; and thank you, too.
 
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