One Take on a Box Inlay Process

Here is how I put inlay in my razor inlay boxes. I buy the inlay strips from a variety of sources. It's easy to google to find them. I decide where I want it and mark it in light pencil.

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It's often difficult to be precise with a cut if the router being used is held by hand. Because of that, the router must be stationary and the box must be moved over the router bit. It is very important to check, double check, and check one more time that the box is placed correctly and can be moved across the bit without having it deviate from the straight line that is necessary for the inlay material. You can see the mark I put on the side of the box that is in line with the edge of the router bit.

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Since the inlay is at a diagonal to the edge of the box, a tapered wedge sled must be fabricated to insure the box is slanted at the angle that will put the router bit at the correct entry and exit points of the box edges. The rail on the left insures a straight line and is parallel to the intended cut and the tapered sled with the back stop keeps the cut on the intended diagonal.

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After the channel is cut, the inlay is glued and clamped in place, then the box is turned upside down and the ends trimmed with a razor knife.

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awesome Bill, thanks as always for the tips and pics!!

I guess it's just me 'n you, John.

The first shot shows a pic of the inlay in place and sanded smooth to the surface of the box top. Now, we have to make the box so it will open, eh?

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First, the rip fence on the band saw needs to be adjusted for width. I just guessed. Kinda decided on the edge of the second finger joint on one end of the box as the bottom of the lid. Since the box is sitting higher than the top of the fence, it's important that the face of the fence is exactly perpendicular to the table top of the saw. Otherwise, the lid could have a dandy slope to it after you are done. That's where those machinist squares come in handy as the fence is tightened into place. Now, it's time to let 'er rip! Heh heh... Rip, get it?

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Now that there are two halves, it's time to do something besides look at them. I sanded the lips of both halves of the box. If you don't have the 10 inch disc that I have, you could get one of those extra flat granite slabs that Woodcraft.com has to insure a flat surface on all four sides.

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Then, I cut some slats to line the walls of the bottom of the box, making them stick up a bit so the lid would fit snugly onto the bottom. This wouldn't be necessary if you decided to put a hinge on the edge. Didn't want to hinge this one. Notice that the wood came from the same set of planks I used for the WMTR?

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Next:

Styrofoam needs to be cut to fit near exactly. I lucked out and got it the first time around. I glued the styrofoam to the bottom. You have to use the kind of glue that won't melt the stryrofoam. I used wood glue.

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Now, place whatever junk razor you want to use on top of the foam and trace the outline with a thin-line Sharpie.

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Here we are with an outline. Next step is to hog it out so the razor fits. Now, where did I put that Foredom?

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As always Bill, excellent step by step guide. Fantastic looking razor and box too.

I never tire of looking and learning from your tutorials Bill.

That razor looks to be massive

BillEllis said:

Now, place whatever junk razor you want to use on top of the foam and trace the outline with a thin-line Sharpie.

Click to expand...

Now that's funny.
Lots of folks I know would kill for that kind of junk.
Thanks Bill, a very interesting read, particularly for those of us not gifted in the arts.

After the outline is drawn, I used my foredom to "rout" out the hollow for the razor. Then I used latex window caulking to fill in voids and make whatever repairs to the styrofoam as necessary.

Used a heat gun to cure it so I didn't have to wait a day to finish up. Mixed wood glue and gray latex paint and painted the styrofoam. Then, I used gray flocking before the paint dries to provide texture to the bed of the box. Cured it with heat again. Gotta be careful so as not to melt the styrofoam, though.

Here is another thread with much of the same information on the flocking part of the project.


And here we are, and that orta do it. Where's the fork?

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Sweet!
Thanks again for taking the time to show us how you put stuff together.
One of these days you'll have to send me a junk razor and i'll have to throw some junk scales on them

Hard to tell from this angle, but is that a rescaled Double Arrow?


Awesome work, and tutorial as usual. Thanks a million!

Gorgeous! Thanks for the lesson, Bill!

Seraphim said:

Hard to tell from this angle, but is that a rescaled Double Arrow?


Awesome work, and tutorial as usual. Thanks a million!

Click to expand...

Nah, I think it's just a utility knife.







I like how that inlay wraps around the edge. Check out that monkey tailed razor in the background, next to the colored tubing.

Completely and totally wicked great.

Thanks for sharing that.

Another AWESOME job Bill..

That is a nice Havalon Piranta - folding scalpel knife. I have been meaning to pick one of those up.

Box would make a great humidor also.