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XXL Kabuki Round Up - Posh and Sophie Cosmetics + H.I.S bonus section

I'm a big fan of large short loft, luxurious, ultra-dense brushes for face lathering. The biggest problem with these brushes is that you generally have to pay top dollar for them, excluding many wet shavers from trying them out. With some luck they are just to smart to waist that kind of money for a shaving brush. I have however, found some quality alternative brushes that circumnavigate the high price point associated with luxury face lather brushes. Though to be warned most have a few quirks to them.

$Trio.jpg$Trio Lather.jpg
I attempted to take photos of the knots top down, but the Sophie and Posh are jet black so you could not see how dense they are.

Sophie Cosmetics Synthetic Body Brush

First off is the massive $23 Sophie Cosmetics synthetic body brush. I think this is an amazingly handsome brush, however it measures in at a face eclipsing 39mm x 68mm. Think of it as Simpson Chubby 4 size. Aside from a couple custom one off display brushes, this is the biggest "shaving brush" I can think of. It is fully capable of simultaneously touching my ear and mouth, if I apply a bit of pressure. This behemoth is ultra soft and ultra dense, in fact it is as dense a brush as I have ever used. Loft and knot size like this make the face feel of the Sophie just ridiculously big yet luxurious. To big I am going to assume for all but the most adventurous of wet shavers. The tips themselves have a slick silky quality to them.

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Just for size comparison Chubby 2, Sophie Cosmetics, TGN STA 30mm

I'm not exactly sure what kind of beauty products one would apply with a brush this size or to whom but I for one am glad someone is paying attention to this market segment.
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"Come give Miss Ele a big kiss"
The down side is that it is a bit floppy, not exactly in the way we all think of floppy badger brushes though. The synthetic bristles will flop, but they have a tendency to go back to their natural position, so if you make an effort to use only the tips, you can avoid much of this flop. Also the incredible dense synthetic hairs create a bit of suction in the bristles, enough that you can feel it on your face/palm when lathering this monster. Its somewhat floppy, there is no getting around it, I just want you all to know that is a unique kind of flop.

I have remedied this factor though, by adding rubber O Rings (size #50 at Ace 1 5/8 x 1 7/16) to the base of the knot 5 in fact if you can believe it. Normally I'm not a big fan of O Rings as the excessive variety of traditional and custom shaving brushes almost guaranties there is already a brush tuned to your needs. Here however, there is only one brush of its kind, so I got over myself and threw on O rings. The result after 5 rings is a 39mm x 52mm face lather monster. I LOVE LOVE LOVE this brush set up like this, and oddly enough does not take away from the appearance of the brush IMO. The rings look right home here and are almost natural with the other elements of the brush. The O rings really jack up the backbone as there is just no where for the bristles to go. The face feel is still massive with the rings, but its much much smaller than at the native loft. It is still quite soft at the 52mm loft, however the bristles will start to have some tiny hint of skritch, much like the textured feeling of many grades of two band hair badger hair. The support structure below it just has much less room to bend and cushion the tips. Realistically most shavers will need two or three rings, with five being a touch excessive for most faces.

This is a soap killer in the most aggressive scene of the word. The flat fan shape keeps all of the bristles in contact with your soap/cream. Consequently this massive dense brush rips hard soap from your puck with reckless abandon. It lathers quite efficiently too. Its as fast as many smaller less dense brushes. One pitfall of many big dense brushes is that they take a bit of extra time to load and lather properly. There is just more hair, soap, and water to mix up. Here however, the synthetic fibers seem to do this job quicker than any traditional brush even remotely close to this size. Even with the shorter loft, it holds loads and loads of lather. There is plenty to be had no matter how many passes your shave requires. Big dense brushes hog lather, and especially ith the O rings this brush is no different. The short loft keeps the hairs pulled tight together keeping the capillary forces very high. However at the native loft the lather flows much more freely as the bristles travel farther from one another. For most users there will be a balance to be tuned in here adding or deleting an O rings.

The handle is solid, well crafted, and handsome. It is made of wood and metal. With the bristles its quite hefty and feels solid in your hand. To be honest it feels like the bottom end of a base ball bat. You could also say it is shaped something akin to the Simpson Eagle though a bit less stylized. I have always loved this configuration, and even have several custom handles of similar design. It is extremely comfortable to face lather with and gives plenty of knuckle clearance for bowl lathering. Another factor worth mentioning is that this brush has shed ZERO hairs. Not one, this is a very rare thing in dead for a brush this dense.

This brush is kind of amazing, especially for $22, but at this size it is really only for the lunatic fringe among us. Bowl latherers who want a massive decadent brush will love this thing. Face latherers who want to try something akin to a Chubby 4 will enjoy this every bit as much with the addition of some O Rings. So if you want to try a massive dense luxurious brush that wont break the bank this IS your short list of choices. That or your the kind of sadistic freak who has a blood feud with your soap collection, this could be your weapon of choice.

As a note of interest Sophie makes a 27mm x 52mm variant of this brush that many out there could be more comfortable with. However, I have not tried it so I cant comment on it.
 
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Posh Kabuki

The Posh Kabuki is a $9 natural fiber (goat hair according to internet hearsay) brush measuring 35mm x 49mm. It is every bit as dense and possibly softer than the Sophie. Really it is as dense and soft as any shaving brush out there. It is built in a much more conventional configuration though, and is similar to how the Rooney Heritage Stubby line is proportioned. In fact it are only a couple mm difference between it and the XXXL. I have an XXL in my collection and it is in broad terms similar. It however, lacks the gel like tips of the XL line. The feel of the tips is much finer, almost like that dense winter coat of a kitten. The size on the face face is similar to a 28mm brush of normal loft (Chubby 2 etc). It feels bigger than the 28mm short loft XXL so I'm assuming it will again to be closer to the XXXL.

The hair is very fine and very soft. However it does not have tremendous backbone. The short loft balances this out well, and strikes a good balance between backbone and loft. The flat fan shape is is almost flat, and "shifts" more than flops on the face. The hair will shift as one unit as you move the brush around on your face. It is quite reminiscent of how the flat top Shavemacs move. Floppy brushes tend to splay out in random directions, so I want to be clear that this is not a floppy, as it shifts. To this face latherer there is a clear difference between the two, and this one shifts.

The brush creates a rich creamy lather very similar to the EcoTools Bambo Kabuki brush I reviewed several months ago. I love the thick creamy lather this brush makes. The extra fine bristles hold a lot of water and mix lather more finely than the thicker bristles found on other types of brushes. Stroke for stroke it is slicker and more dense than what you normally get from traditional shaving brushes. The down side is that the brush tends to hog some lather. Its big enough and the loft is short enough that I still easily get three or four passes out of it, and another pass or two can be had with a gentle squeeze. However, I'm sure some of the more frugal shavers among us will take issue with it.

The soft fine bristles however can sometimes have trouble loading hard soaps. Sure it will load up eventually, especially if you let the puck soak for several minuets. Its just not the soap killer that the other two brushes here are. However, for the less than the cost of most any puck of soap, this is a fault I can live with.

The handle is adequate at best. The size lets your fingers hold onto it with out much issue, but there is no texture or contour to secure a firm grip on. I am considering having a custom handle made up to glue this into, though I feel odd having a $30+ custom handle made up for a $9 brush.

The Posh is a hand made brush of natural fiber. The knot has the slightly imperfect shape that hand made knots end up with, and to me that is kind of amazing at this price. The hairs have the animal scent associated with natural brushes, though it is slightly less musky than that of a badger. It is died black, and the die will run out for many many lathers. Even after two or three dozen lathers, the color runs occasionally. There was also some shedding for the first couple lathers, but this is very common with any hand tied knot of this density. The shedding stopped as expected after only a couple lathers.

The Posh kabuki comes with a Kent style leather travel case. While I cant say this is for sure a Kent brush, there is an identical Kent Kabuki brush that is sold in the same packaging with an identical case for $70. The only apparent difference is that it is branded Kent where the Posh logo is on mine. While proof of nothing, I'm guessing that Kent is somehow associated with the making of this brush. The case itself is nice, but will probably be useless for wet shaving, as it lacks any ventilation. The brush takes some time to dry, and I see the potential for mold if left in this case if closed for travel.

I really like this brush, and plan on using it in my rotation. I think its an excellent cost effective if quirky alternative to the traditional Chubby shaving brushes many face latherers prize. Or if you just want to test the waters before you spend the big bucks on your Chubby/Stubby/D01 etc, this is a good way to get your feet wet.

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Bonus Section H.I.S. Synthetic Shaving Brush

There has been quite a lot posted about this brush, so I'll try to be brief. I am 100% sold on the H.I.S synthetic bristles, though not as much on the execution of the brush as a whole. The hair is as soft and luxurious as the other brushes mentioned here, but the backbone blows them both out of the water. The springy hair is amazingly firm even at its high native loft. The face feels much like an unsoaked Omega Pro 48, but with cloud soft tips. In general I prefer a shorter loft, but the high loft of the H.I.S. is not a issue as the backbone more than makes up for it. The brush loads even the hardest soaps with ease, and lather just explodes out of the thing with hardly any effort. While the lather is not quite as rich and cushioning as what the Posh makes, it takes only a fraction of the work to get almost the same cushion.

Most users claim this to be a high density brush but I'm not impressed with the mediocre density of my H.I.S. It's middle of the road dense at best IMO, nothing to get exited about like most reviewers do. The handle is also a bit oddly proportioned. It's comfortable enough in my big hands. However the dimensions feel a touch big for what most shavers seem to like. My biggest problem is that the sharp bulb shape of the knot combined with the impressive backbone makes it feel a bit pointy on the face, in the same way many Simpsons two bands were a year or so ago.

Another big problem I have with my H.I.S. is the poor seal between the knot and the knot bed. You can clearly see patches where the epoxy did not reach, and after lathering soap and water get trapped in this space. I worry that eventually something will start to grow in that little space.

If there were a Chubby style (shorter loft big face lathering brush with this kind of bristle) H.I.S. I would buy one in an instant. Something in the order of 35mm x 60mm would be amazing IMO especially with a higher density. Like I said, I'm in love with the hair and how this thing lathers!

As it is, priced at $30 its the most expensive brush in this review, but it is most likely the best all around shaving brush for the average or new shaver. Its higher loft luxurious tips and unmatched backbone make it a very versatile brush and a good choice for anyone only wanting one brush to do everything.

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Poor epoxy seal, you can see water and lather trapped in there.
 
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This is a very interesting review... Thank you for that... As much as I might be tempted it us probably a bit too adventurous for me ... I stay with my Thaeter, shavemacs, Rooneys, Simpsons ... :)
 
Great reviews. I'm afraid to be as adventurous...what if I like these more than the badgers I've spent hundreds and hundreds of dollars on?
 
Great reviews. I'm afraid to be as adventurous...what if I like these more than the badgers I've spent hundreds and hundreds of dollars on?

I'm doubt you will like them more than your badgers, but they are something different.

Sometimes I think I have shave ADD... and need new and different things to throw at my face.
 
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Man, the epoxy on the H.I.S does look like hammered crap, makes me think I should have gone with the black. Guess I'll know when it gets here.
 
Man, the epoxy on the H.I.S does look like hammered crap, makes me think I should have gone with the black. Guess I'll know when it gets here.

I had the same thoughts when I saw it. If I paid more, I might be upset, but for the price I can live with it.
 
Nice reviews, Seth!:thumbup: Great to come up with more approachable options for folks to try. Really like the Sophie. Very nice looking (even with the O rings, as you say.

Enjoy them, brother!

Ken
 
Thanks for the kind words all!

So has anyone else had mixed feelings about their H.I.S. brushes? I know my tastes border on the extreme, but I kind of love/hate it :001_unsur

I tried a brush similar to the Posh from a that girly Icings store. It held waaaaaaay too much water to lather anything.

Was the kabuki you tried natural or synthetic fiber? The Posh seems to hold onto water much harder than the synthetics I have tried. I just make sure to give it a good shaking before I load up.
 
These are intended to be make up brushes rather than shaving brushes, right?

Yep, these are both sold as make up brushes. However they double quite well as shaving brushes, and are pretty damn cheap to boot. Except for the H.I.S. as it is a shaving brush proper, though it also happens to be made by a cosmetics company. I had recently picked one up, and it fit the bill, so I threw it in at the end.
 
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As an update, The Sophi and H.I.S. have both held up great. The H.I.S. broke in and loosened up some and although I still hold reservations about the loft its growing on me. The Sophie is still a BEAST I love that thing. The tips are a touch plasticy feeling, but they are so soft its not a big deal. Plus somehow its not a lather hog at all with all that density. Flow threw is just perfect on it. Not to much or to little lather. Just as a word of caution, there are brushes out there that look identical but have different types of hair in them. Some may or may not be as good for shaving, so pay attention if this one catches your interest.

The Posh on the other hand did not fair so well. It continued to bleed die with any warm soak. So I did the dumb thing and soaked it in really hot water to try to remove all the excess die. You all know where this is going right?

I knew it was a bad idea... I did it anyway.

The brush started to shed after the hot water soaks, and it kept bleeding. Plus after breaking in the brush got floppy. Its so ridiculously dense and short lofted though that it was hard to notice on the face. Loading soap however was a different story. I would have to apply more and more pressure to load hard soaps. Again not good for brush longevity.

The combination of no bite at the tips and week backbone makes me think this would not make as good a shaving brush as I first thought. The density/luxury face feel purist in me wanted it to work so hard that I killed it trying to make it a shaving brush. That said if you use creams and cold water this could still be worth it, and should last much much longer if you dont punish it like I did. Especially for the price.
 
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While I'm not a fan of the HIS and Posh... I did take notice and totally loved your review on the Sophie Cosmetics - even though the brush is not to my taste(big, fibres look very very fine), I think what you are doing is fantastic. Its totally progressive, and I like the fact that there are members on this forum that look for different ways to shave, brush - and hopefully soon ways to make our own frags!
-)
When I go out shopping with SWMBO I find myself looking at women's skin care products (and lingerie :drool:) and how they would translate to mens shaving, and what they do for skin care.
 
The fine nature of the fibers is what makes the synthetic brushes work so well (Most nylon shaving brush fibers are very fine too). I'm just starting to try out these kabuki's, but the ecotools Loric sent me produces the same quality lather as my Rooney Finest, which up till now was unmatched. That much agitation in an area with so little air present really creates a super concentrated lather that has all the best properties of the lather turned up to max. I'm having to actually NOT use that brush to judge soaps with because it makes every soap that isn't complete garbage lather really well. Honestly the only complaint I have about the knot is that it lacks the scrub of the finest and that it's a bit too small. Bump it to about 25% more diameter (~1.56x the surface area unsplayed), and I'd say you've got a real winner.
 
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