Workshop set up advice

[Ponks123]

Decided I needed to do more with my evenings than drinking and watching rubbish on TV.

Bought a few customs over the last year but they are quite expensive and I need (sound like a drug addict) to increase my number of everyday straights.

So, I've bought quite a few cheapish old straights and was going to start by removing the scales and just working on the blades. Later down the line the intention will be to re-scale with the old ones or make new ones. The buy a honing set and hone them.

A have been given a single speed, 2850 rpm, 6" bench grinder that has the grinding stones attached. I've removed the stones and invested in the following.

6" colour stitch, sisal and loose fold wheels.
Adaptors.
A Dremel type kit that fits on the grinder.
Greaseless compound adhesive, 400, 120, 180, 240 and 320 grit greaseless compound.
Black, brown, blue, green and white polishing compounds.

The question is, apart from the skill set, what am I missing from this set up. Remember this is just to restore the blades prior to rescaling and honing? Or is this totally the wrong approach?

Thank you in advance.

 

[mrlandpirate]

check out the sticky
Need help with Restoration? Sticky Redux! *****Look Here*****
great info

 

[novitiate]

Decided I needed to do more with my evenings than drinking and watching rubbish on TV.

The question is, apart from the skill set, what am I missing from this set up. Remember this is just to restore the blades prior to rescaling and honing? Or is this totally the wrong approach?

Thank you in advance.

Kudos on first point, my shop has been torn apart 2 months while I retool it to something approaching usefulness.

These are general workshop suggestions for something you can use for any project:

1) A Solid Workbench. Over the years I've built a few (wrong) by starting out with something sold as a "workbench" from big box stores. Way too flimsy. Get on craigslist and look for a 1-piece butcher block table from the US or Europe. Rock maple is also a good choice if no butcher block available. Made in Asia (usually Malaysia) OK too but wood not as hard. However, if for a portable bench it will be lighter. If you have the room in your workspace you can use the table as is but it will be low so you have to sit at it. But, having a work area that you can work on any of 4 sides from is useful. If you can't do that find a local workshop that can rip the tabletop down to workbench width. Put that on some steel workbench legs (~$40) with solid bottom shelf bracing and adjustable feet (not casters) w/ 1/2" threads. Then level it and you've got a great work surface.

If the above is too much and you just need a temporary work area, get a B&D Workmate. Then look for a small butcher block table. Throw away the legs and add cleats to the table bottom so you can clamp it into the Workmate. You've now got a small but solid workbench you can take apart and store under a bed.

2) Great Lighting. You need an area light over the workbench and a task light to put on your work. The area light can be a strip light from the ceiling and the task light a drafting style flexible clamp mount one. You can get 3-foot area lights very cheaply ($20), same for drafting lights. LEDs in both with warm white output so your eyes don't go nuts.

If the workbench is the temporary style just get the flexible task light w/ warm white LED bulb.

3) Good Vises. Look for an old US one for heavy work. If you build a large workbench get a 4" one (at least). For a portable workbench, 3" or smaller that bolts to the work top. If a clamp-on vise you may have trouble finding one bigger than 2". Even if you don't use the big vise for razor resto it is handy for other things such as holding tools & jigs as a 3rd hand. If the work top is smooth enough a vacuum-clamp Panavise type vise will work well and they are small so good for delicate work.

4) Tool Storage. Besides only buying tools as you need them rather than succumbing to TAD (I am a bad example), you need a place to keep them. If you have a temporary work space, get an old hard sided small suitcase (American Tourister, Samsonite) and some tool roll-ups. Order your tools by type and keep them all in one spot in the suitcase. The suitcase will be big enough to keep your electric drill, saws, etc. too. If you have a fixed location work area you can add shelves or racks to put your most often used stuff where it is easy to grab.

5) Keep it organized. Once you got the space, keep it clean. Projects go faster if you can get to it immediately vs. picking up the mess you made last time. Also, when involved in a project periodically take a break to pick up. Again, things go much easier when everything is ordered and easy to find.

Good luck!

 

[Ponks123]

check out the sticky
Need help with Restoration? Sticky Redux! *****Look Here*****
great info

Thanks for the heads up. So much info it's making my head spin.
I'm just going to start with the restoration of the blades first then, when I've got that straight in my head, work on the scales and re-pinning.

My first batch of blades (Lambs to the slaughter) have arrived and they are all hollows. Bit worried about taking too much metal off as there isn't that much to start with in the concave face.

Should be fun but going to wear all the safety protection available including a stab vest. Bit weird really as I've been in construction 30 years and don't wear any at work.

 

[Ponks123]

Kudos on first point, my shop has been torn apart 2 months while I retool it to something approaching usefulness.

These are general workshop suggestions for something you can use for any project:

1) A Solid Workbench. Over the years I've built a few (wrong) by starting out with something sold as a "workbench" from big box stores. Way too flimsy. Get on craigslist and look for a 1-piece butcher block table from the US or Europe. Rock maple is also a good choice if no butcher block available. Made in Asia (usually Malaysia) OK too but wood not as hard. However, if for a portable bench it will be lighter. If you have the room in your workspace you can use the table as is but it will be low so you have to sit at it. But, having a work area that you can work on any of 4 sides from is useful. If you can't do that find a local workshop that can rip the tabletop down to workbench width. Put that on some steel workbench legs (~$40) with solid bottom shelf bracing and adjustable feet (not casters) w/ 1/2" threads. Then level it and you've got a great work surface.

If the above is too much and you just need a temporary work area, get a B&D Workmate. Then look for a small butcher block table. Throw away the legs and add cleats to the table bottom so you can clamp it into the Workmate. You've now got a small but solid workbench you can take apart and store under a bed.

2) Great Lighting. You need an area light over the workbench and a task light to put on your work. The area light can be a strip light from the ceiling and the task light a drafting style flexible clamp mount one. You can get 3-foot area lights very cheaply ($20), same for drafting lights. LEDs in both with warm white output so your eyes don't go nuts.

If the workbench is the temporary style just get the flexible task light w/ warm white LED bulb.

3) Good Vises. Look for an old US one for heavy work. If you build a large workbench get a 4" one (at least). For a portable workbench, 3" or smaller that bolts to the work top. If a clamp-on vise you may have trouble finding one bigger than 2". Even if you don't use the big vise for razor resto it is handy for other things such as holding tools & jigs as a 3rd hand. If the work top is smooth enough a vacuum-clamp Panavise type vise will work well and they are small so good for delicate work.

4) Tool Storage. Besides only buying tools as you need them rather than succumbing to TAD (I am a bad example), you need a place to keep them. If you have a temporary work space, get an old hard sided small suitcase (American Tourister, Samsonite) and some tool roll-ups. Order your tools by type and keep them all in one spot in the suitcase. The suitcase will be big enough to keep your electric drill, saws, etc. too. If you have a fixed location work area you can add shelves or racks to put your most often used stuff where it is easy to grab.

5) Keep it organized. Once you got the space, keep it clean. Projects go faster if you can get to it immediately vs. picking up the mess you made last time. Also, when involved in a project periodically take a break to pick up. Again, things go much easier when everything is ordered and easy to find.

Good luck!

Thanks for your reply and you've obviously done this before.

Oddly enough I've been thinking about work shop set up a lot over the last year and I'm lucky enough to have a large shed at the bottom of the garden. Unfortunately my wife wants half of it to do her girly craft stuff. The shed will be partitioned 50/50 but I'll still be left with loads of room (approx 10' x 20')

I was thinking about stability of benches but will be using light weight commercial benches and shelving (as this is what I have). I was going to over lay the benches with 1" ply but may well double this up, then fix it to the walls and floor.

I'm all over the lighting. Thinking fluorescent for background and LED spots or floods for the work areas.

Can't work out whats best for extraction but was thinking of using large vacuum cleaner attached under the bench with holes drilled out.

I'm only thinking of blade restoration at the moment so tooling should be minimal but i realise that i need to leave enough space for all the other bits (the list is long) as I progress.

I'm sure I'll be back on here soon searching for more info but, for the moment, thanks for your help. If you can think of anything else please let me know.

 

[les24preludes]

I have a basic workshop in a small room in my London apartment, a piece of kitchen top across two filing cabinets for tools. One medium size vice (essential), one drill press and one large round neon magnifier on an arm for any detail work. Solder station since I make electronics.

I don't have room for a lathe, but I'm acquiring a few bits and pieces for my drill press in the hope I can turn some copper DE razor handles since I have several nice 85x12.8mm blanks ready threaded for M5. Trying to figure out a live centre for starters. Turning razor handles always seems to me to be a fun thing to do if you use DE or indeed SE razors. The swarf would be an issue but presumably there are solutions.

 

[Ponks123]

I have a basic workshop in a small room in my London apartment, a piece of kitchen top across two filing cabinets for tools. One medium size vice (essential), one drill press and one large round neon magnifier on an arm for any detail work. Solder station since I make electronics.

I don't have room for a lathe, but I'm acquiring a few bits and pieces for my drill press in the hope I can turn some copper DE razor handles since I have several nice 85x12.8mm blanks ready threaded for M5. Trying to figure out a live centre for starters. Turning razor handles always seems to me to be a fun thing to do if you use DE or indeed SE razors. The swarf would be an issue but presumably there are solutions.

What about looking at a small milling setup. Should be able to turn copper on it but could come in handy for lots of other metal working problems.

This would be on my wish list few a few years time.

 

[novitiate]

Thanks for your reply and you've obviously done this before.

Oddly enough I've been thinking about work shop set up a lot over the last year and I'm lucky enough to have a large shed at the bottom of the garden. Unfortunately my wife wants half of it to do her girly craft stuff. The shed will be partitioned 50/50 but I'll still be left with loads of room (approx 10' x 20')

I was thinking about stability of benches but will be using light weight commercial benches and shelving (as this is what I have). I was going to over lay the benches with 1" ply but may well double this up, then fix it to the walls and floor.

I'm all over the lighting. Thinking fluorescent for background and LED spots or floods for the work areas.

Can't work out whats best for extraction but was thinking of using large vacuum cleaner attached under the bench with holes drilled out.



I'm only thinking of blade restoration at the moment so tooling should be minimal but i realise that i need to leave enough space for all the other bits (the list is long) as I progress.

I'm sure I'll be back on here soon searching for more info but, for the moment, thanks for your help. If you can think of anything else please let me know.

You're welcome and yes, been through it before. Wish I'd knew then what I know now.... No reason you can't have a combo work area that you both can use. As long as she isn't potting plants on it any craft type she's doing will be at home on this bench. Believe me, getting her involved now as to what she needs will pay dividends. My wife is a casual woodworker. The last time I redid my shop I neglected that. Big dumb mistake. Who's a moron? /raises hand

If your shed has a plywood floor add sheet of 3/4" under where your bench will sit and screw it down. If you can get under the shed, put landscape timbers under the joists and shim them. You want the bench on a solid a surface. Further, anywhere the bench is reinforced, reinforce it more. Adding extra bracing & mass is a good thing. Pay attention to how the feet connect and the feet themselves. If flimsy there, reinforce. If the feet are wimpy replace or screw the bench into the floor. Further, find vids on English shed shops. The Brits have perfected shed work areas to a high art.

Adding another layer to your bench work surface (or 2-3) is good whatever it is made from (MDF, particle board, etc.). A piece of 3/4" plywood will make it more solid. You could add a layer of laminate (Formica) over that. Generally you want a hard surface for the top and why butcher block or rock maple is a good choice. When you strike a work object you want all the energy directed there and not allow the bench top to rebound it.

One thing to keep in mind, your workbench is a tool. Woodworkers nail this point home. Their benches are massive, heavy, rock solid, and with a myriad of attachment points to extend their capabilities. I am not a woodworker, I do metal and metalworkers don't tend to think that way. However, you can adapt some of it to a hobby bench and get a much better one when you do. If you are fighting your bench, perhaps without realizing, your projects suffer.

 

[Ponks123]

What about looking at a small milling setup. Should be able to turn copper on it but could come in handy for lots of other metal working problems.

This would be on my wish list few a few years time.

Thinking a bit more you may be able to use your pillar drill, depending on size and speeds.

If you were to insert the copper stud into the drill then bring your cutting blade to the to the stud. if you were to fix the cutting blade to a vice then use the adjustment of the vice to bring the blade closer incrementally. Obviously everything would have to be tied down good and proper.

 

[Ponks123]

You're welcome and yes, been through it before. Wish I'd knew then what I know now.... No reason you can't have a combo work area that you both can use. As long as she isn't potting plants on it any craft type she's doing will be at home on this bench. Believe me, getting her involved now as to what she needs will pay dividends. My wife is a casual woodworker. The last time I redid my shop I neglected that. Big dumb mistake. Who's a moron? /raises hand

If your shed has a plywood floor add sheet of 3/4" under where your bench will sit and screw it down. If you can get under the shed, put landscape timbers under the joists and shim them. You want the bench on a solid a surface. Further, anywhere the bench is reinforced, reinforce it more. Adding extra bracing & mass is a good thing. Pay attention to how the feet connect and the feet themselves. If flimsy there, reinforce. If the feet are wimpy replace. Further, find vids on English shed shops. The Brits have perfected shed work areas to a high art.

Adding another layer to your bench work surface (or 2-3) is good whatever it is made from (MDF, particle board, etc.). A piece of 3/4" plywood will make it more solid. You could add a layer of laminate (Formica) over that. Generally you want a hard surface for the top and why butcher block or rock maple is a good choice. When you strike a work object you want all the energy directed there and not allow the bench top to rebound it.

One thing to keep in mind, your workbench is a tool. Woodworkers nail this point home. Their benches are massive, heavy, rock solid, and with a myriad of attachment points to extend their capabilities. I am not a woodworker, I do metal and metalworkers don't tend to think that way. However, you can adapt some of it to a hobby bench and get a much better one when you do. If you are fighting your bench, perhaps without realizing, your projects suffer.

Already got the wife on board. Diplomacy was my first thought on this project.

The 2 areas will be 2 completely separate rooms with a door between. I have suggested she has the section with more windows and a better view. More diplomacy.

Floor already has 1" OSB and 1/2" interlocking rubber matting.

Shed is on concrete base and yes I'm a Brit.

Speak soon got to open my birthday presents.

 

[novitiate]

Shed is on concrete base and yes I'm a Brit.

Thank God I did not go off on a Lucas electrics or English hotel shower tirade.

 

[Esox]

A have been given a single speed, 2850 rpm, 6" bench grinder that has the grinding stones attached. I've removed the stones and invested in the following.

6" colour stitch, sisal and loose fold wheels.
Adaptors.
A Dremel type kit that fits on the grinder.
Greaseless compound adhesive, 400, 120, 180, 240 and 320 grit greaseless compound.
Black, brown, blue, green and white polishing compounds.

The question is, apart from the skill set, what am I missing from this set up. Remember this is just to restore the blades prior to rescaling and honing? Or is this totally the wrong approach?

Pick the right area for your polishing station. Polishing stations are messy. There will be a lot of dust and loose strings from the wheels as well as rouge flung around. Thats more a problem at high speed than low speed.

@Somerled and @Chan Eil Whiskers are two that come to my mind that work on razors quite a bit and make their own scales. I'm sure they'll be able to offer some advice.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Kudos on first point, my shop has been torn apart 2 months while I retool it to something approaching usefulness.

These are general workshop suggestions for something you can use for any project:

1) A Solid Workbench. Over the years I've built a few (wrong) by starting out with something sold as a "workbench" from big box stores. Way too flimsy. Get on craigslist and look for a 1-piece butcher block table from the US or Europe. Rock maple is also a good choice if no butcher block available. Made in Asia (usually Malaysia) OK too but wood not as hard. However, if for a portable bench it will be lighter. If you have the room in your workspace you can use the table as is but it will be low so you have to sit at it. But, having a work area that you can work on any of 4 sides from is useful. If you can't do that find a local workshop that can rip the tabletop down to workbench width. Put that on some steel workbench legs (~$40) with solid bottom shelf bracing and adjustable feet (not casters) w/ 1/2" threads. Then level it and you've got a great work surface.

If the above is too much and you just need a temporary work area, get a B&D Workmate. Then look for a small butcher block table. Throw away the legs and add cleats to the table bottom so you can clamp it into the Workmate. You've now got a small but solid workbench you can take apart and store under a bed.

2) Great Lighting. You need an area light over the workbench and a task light to put on your work. The area light can be a strip light from the ceiling and the task light a drafting style flexible clamp mount one. You can get 3-foot area lights very cheaply ($20), same for drafting lights. LEDs in both with warm white output so your eyes don't go nuts.

If the workbench is the temporary style just get the flexible task light w/ warm white LED bulb.

3) Good Vises. Look for an old US one for heavy work. If you build a large workbench get a 4" one (at least). For a portable workbench, 3" or smaller that bolts to the work top. If a clamp-on vise you may have trouble finding one bigger than 2". Even if you don't use the big vise for razor resto it is handy for other things such as holding tools & jigs as a 3rd hand. If the work top is smooth enough a vacuum-clamp Panavise type vise will work well and they are small so good for delicate work.

4) Tool Storage. Besides only buying tools as you need them rather than succumbing to TAD (I am a bad example), you need a place to keep them. If you have a temporary work space, get an old hard sided small suitcase (American Tourister, Samsonite) and some tool roll-ups. Order your tools by type and keep them all in one spot in the suitcase. The suitcase will be big enough to keep your electric drill, saws, etc. too. If you have a fixed location work area you can add shelves or racks to put your most often used stuff where it is easy to grab.

5) Keep it organized. Once you got the space, keep it clean. Projects go faster if you can get to it immediately vs. picking up the mess you made last time. Also, when involved in a project periodically take a break to pick up. Again, things go much easier when everything is ordered and easy to find.

Good luck!

Excellent advice.

 

[Ponks123]

Pick the right area for your polishing station. Polishing stations are messy. There will be a lot of dust and loose strings from the wheels as well as rouge flung around. Thats more a problem at high speed than low speed.

@Somerled and @Chan Eil Whiskers are two that come to my mind that work on razors quite a bit and make their own scales. I'm sure they'll be able to offer some advice.

Thought about claddi

Thank God I did not go off on a Lucas electrics or English hotel shower tirade.

I could 'go off' on a hundred other problems with the country but I prefer to think of it all as quirky!
BTW just opened my birthday presents and the main one was another custom from Ed Brice. I'll be posting pictures once I've sobered up.

 

[Ponks123]

Pick the right area for your polishing station. Polishing stations are messy. There will be a lot of dust and loose strings from the wheels as well as rouge flung around. Thats more a problem at high speed than low speed.

@Somerled and @Chan Eil Whiskers are two that come to my mind that work on razors quite a bit and make their own scales. I'm sure they'll be able to offer some advice.

thinking about cladding walls around the grinding/polishing area in perspex but then again it might add a bit of character over the years.

 

[Esox]

thinking about cladding walls around the grinding/polishing area in perspex but then again it might add a bit of character over the years.

It does tend to pile up in one main place, but the finer stuff gets everywhere. If you mount the bench grinder on one end of a work bench like I have, it can help to prop something behind the wheel so the rouge doesnt get flung across the bench and over any other projects you might have on the go at the time.

I keep a cotton wheel on one side of mine and a wire wheel on the other. Both see considerable use. A friend mounted a variable speed setup on a 24"x24"x36h" wheeled steel stand with locking wheels. He just wheels it out when he needs it then back into its space in his shop. He also has two bench mounted grinders, one with stones and one with wire wheels. He works on and restores old Triumph motorcycles so they all see a lot of use. He mutters about Lucas electrics too haha.

I'd love to see your Ed Brice razors when you get the time!

 

[novitiate]

I have a basic workshop in a small room in my London apartment, a piece of kitchen top across two filing cabinets for tools. One medium size vice (essential), one drill press and one large round neon magnifier on an arm for any detail work. Solder station since I make electronics.

I don't have room for a lathe, but I'm acquiring a few bits and pieces for my drill press in the hope I can turn some copper DE razor handles since I have several nice 85x12.8mm blanks ready threaded for M5. Trying to figure out a live centre for starters. Turning razor handles always seems to me to be a fun thing to do if you use DE or indeed SE razors. The swarf would be an issue but presumably there are solutions.

Thought about claddi

I could 'go off' on a hundred other problems with the country but I prefer to think of it all as quirky!
BTW just opened my birthday presents and the main one was another custom from Ed Brice. I'll be posting pictures once I've sobered up.

Touche'

 

[Ponks123]

It does tend to pile up in one main place, but the finer stuff gets everywhere. If you mount the bench grinder on one end of a work bench like I have, it can help to prop something behind the wheel so the rouge doesnt get flung across the bench and over any other projects you might have on the go at the time.

I keep a cotton wheel on one side of mine and a wire wheel on the other. Both see considerable use. A friend mounted a variable speed setup on a 24"x24"x36h" wheeled steel stand with locking wheels. He just wheels it out when he needs it then back into its space in his shop. He also has two bench mounted grinders, one with stones and one with wire wheels. He works on and restores old Triumph motorcycles so they all see a lot of use. He mutters about Lucas electrics too haha.

I'd love to see your Ed Brice razors when you get the time!

 

[Ponks123]

Just posted the pics on general straights.

Hope you like. I love it!

 

[les24preludes]

Thinking a bit more you may be able to use your pillar drill, depending on size and speeds.

If you were to insert the copper stud into the drill then bring your cutting blade to the to the stud. if you were to fix the cutting blade to a vice then use the adjustment of the vice to bring the blade closer incrementally. Obviously everything would have to be tied down good and proper.

Made a start with a live centre. Haven't fitted it yet, but should work. Goes through the 19mm hole in the table

Adjustable Double Bearing Precision Live Center Revolving Wrench Lathe | eBay