Why are these ingrown hairs happening

[Dangerdandan]

Okay, so I've been lurking here for awhile now but I'm having a problem that seems to counter conventional wisdom. I'm in my 20s, I’ve always shaved with a Mach3 and canned Gillette. No major complaints with this aside from the cost of M3 carts, which is the main reason trying to give them up. I’ve tried using a DE (Merkur 23c w/ feathers), and BIC disposables and BIC twin disposables. Before the Feather blades, I was using Merkurs, but the problem was the same as it is now.
The problem is that the DE and BICs are causing recurring ingrown hairs on my right (only) cheek- they basically form a line of ingrowns across my upper cheek that only heal when I return to the M3 or stop shaving- also, ingrowns under my chin and around/on my adam’s apple. Obviously, I am confused as to why the 1-2 bladed razors are ruining my face, while the M3 is not. Not to mention the actual shaving with the M3 is uncomfortable, where the problem-causers glide smoothly along my face. Anyways, I really don’t want to resign to the idea that I HAVE to continue using M3 carts because I really prefer the DE and even the BICs. Also, after shaving with the DE or a BIC razor, the stubble in some areas feels painfully sharp against my skin until the next day.
I shave in the evenings after a shower, wtg only and minimal pressure, with 1 (sometimes 2) passes. (One pass when I use the M3) I rinse with cold water and finish with either alum, witch hazel or washing with face wash. I exfoliate regularly with apricot scrub and wash my face with Neutrogena acne wash. I admit that I rarely, if ever, moisturize. I still shave with canned goo since that seems to work best for me. I tried Bigelow but after 3 shaves, every bit of skin that came in contact with it started peeling off. Anyways, I’m almost certain it is related to the razors.
Any help from you fine people is greatly appreciated.

 

[mblakele]

Welcome to B&B!

The ingrowns sounds like a problem with blade angle to me, and pressure could also play a role. When I see ingrowns it is mostly when I get sloppy with a dull blade. Using lather product that contains allantoin might help, too.

Sharp-feeling stubble is a known hazard of better shaving technique: first because you are paying more attention to the results, and second because the reductive process tends to sharpen up the points of the stubble as you shave.

 

[Dangerdandan]

Hey, thanks for your input.
So if it a problems with blade angle, I'm pretty much SOL with the disposables I guess. As far as DE razors, does the blade angle actually change with more aggressive/adjustable razors, or is that just the amount of blade exposed to the skin?
I actually thought the sharp stubble was a sign of doing something wrong..I was also thinking that since a Mach3 does three passes at once, maybe I should be doing three passes to reduce the hair down even further. I could be wrong though. Also, I tend to shave less often with a Mach3; maybe my face isn't liking the more frequent shaves.

 

[SpEe1113]

Also consider using a brush and a better soap/cream product. The brush will lift up the hair and prepare it better for the shave than using your hands. Think about it this way, when you lather up with some can product using your hands you're smashing the hair back into your skin and/or pushing it down. This can create a "curling" effect that makes your hair retreat back into the skin thus causing an ingrown.

It may also take your face some time to get used to the different shave style/technique. Have you mapped the hair growth?

Lastly, be careful using the acne wash too much, I had a similar problem. It will dry out your skin and could als be contributing to the problem. If your washing your face a couple times daily you may find that the acne wash isn't necessary and more value in hydrating your face. I was hesitant towards it at first since I have rather oily skin so initial reaction is to use acne wash, but it can easily dry out the skin and make your shaves more difficult. I would consider limiting that to a couple times a week and use hydrating face washes the rest of the time. You skin will likely adjust but hey YMMV...hope this helps!

 

[takeshi]

As far as DE razors, does the blade angle actually change with more aggressive/adjustable razors, or is that just the amount of blade exposed to the skin?

It changes with technique and experience. How you hold and use the DE determines angle.

 

[Ron Scott]

This just came up in a discussion about African American shavers.

Without knowing more about your beard type, it is difficult to give a solid recommendation. But if your beard tends to grow sideways, flatter against your cheek than growing straight out this might help.

Use a sharp blade...4-5 uses tops. No carts! DEs only.
Pay extra attention to exfoliation and hydration...take 5 minutes or so
Skip a day between shaves to let the hairs grow straighter
Shave with the grain only and don't go for BBS
Oils may inhibit hydration. Use a quality soap or cream.
Use a quality non-alcohol aftershave.