A good tip to flatten stones is to rub them on the reverse side of a large ceramic wall tile
What is the easiest, simplest, or cheapest way to maintain a straight razor?
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
CrOx is cheaper, yes. Diamond progression gives better results. So depends on your priorities. A garage sale coticule could be used as a one stone solution if you will settle for a coticule edge (admittedly, not such a terrible thing) and don't mind putting in some time when setting an occasional bevel. It all depends on the required edge quality. The bottom of a porcelain teacup would probably give you an edge that you "could" shave with, I don't know. Cost? Maybe 50 cents at the same garage sale or second-hand shop. I leave that experiment to the more intrepid or curious among us. What about stropping on a lapped steel plate? Cost, essentially zero. Who doesn't have bits of steel all over their workshop, or see it at the curb somewhere every trash day? Same principle as steeling a kitchen knife, just more precise.
Certain compromises can be made and still leave the edge good enough to shave if the shaver does his part and isn't picky. Those same compromises might make for an edge that is unacceptable to some others. You could carry things to extremes and say the cheapest maintenance is no maintenance at all, and when the user can no longer coax any sort of shave from the razor, he grows a beard.
I think the question is an imprecise one that has no single answer, actually.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Not really flat enough.
I always thought green CrOX was a 0.5 micron (more or less) sharpening compound.
The one I just received, made by Thiers Issard, is labelled Chromox and it's purpose is to "take the bite
off" a super sharp edge that has been achieved with diamond pastes and sprays of 0.5 and 0.25 microns.
I asked the store where I purchased it about the particle size of Theirs Issard green compound
and was told there is no grit. So I wonder if it can be used after 0.1 micron diamond paste as well
Thoughts?
The one I just received, made by Thiers Issard, is labelled Chromox and it's purpose is to "take the bite
off" a super sharp edge that has been achieved with diamond pastes and sprays of 0.5 and 0.25 microns.
I asked the store where I purchased it about the particle size of Theirs Issard green compound
and was told there is no grit. So I wonder if it can be used after 0.1 micron diamond paste as well
Thoughts?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Yes, if you want to dull your edge back down to .5u sharpness you can use the CrOx after .1u diamond. I don't see much point in that.
CrOx is basically one grit size. Or one grit range, actually. Call it .5u or call it .3u and either answer is about right. It is not really one precise grit number, TBH. I don't think anyone actually grades this stuff that precisely. CrOx meant for use as an abrasive is probably milled to remove any lumps. For coloring use, likely not.
I experimented briefly with CrOx and I think I ended up tossing it. I know I don't have any now. Don't need it, don't want it. I have diamond in a variety of grits, even down to .025u, or 25nm. Another experiment. I no longer use it but I might some day so I kept it.
As far as TI is concerned, the real purpose of the CrOx is to get more of your money. Yes a .25u edge can feel a bit harsh. You would think that .1u would feel even harsher, but most Method honers find jsut the opposite. I find the .1u edge to be very smooth but a high shave angle would give you a rough shave with that edge. But back to the .25u edge, if you have no .1u diamond then you may want to skip the .25u altogether. Yes, possibly CrOx could make the .5u diamond edge shave a bit smoother. Honestly I haven't tried it and I have no reason to try it since I always go to .1u diamond.
Can a 30micron (600 grit) silicon carbide lapping film be trusted to lap flat
a Naniwa 3K and 10K surface?
a Naniwa 3K and 10K surface?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Certainly. Depends on the plate for flatness. It will cut slower than a good wet/dry sandpaper, though. Same with 60u. Cuts slowly for the grit size. I would use sandpaper but the lapping film would work.
I bought a £15 cut to size acrylic block and a progression of lapping films for about £10. Ive honed many razors on these and on several razors learned how to reset a bevel and take it brough the progression to razor sharp. I also bought a nice 3 inch wide strop for £25. This set up could quite easily keep a razor or 3 in tip top condition for over a year and also allow you to hone up any antique shop finds along the way.
Next I bought a Naniwa 12k for £45 on eBay which is a lot simpler to use and will last years by the looks of it. I also bought a granite tile for £8 and some 320 grit sandpaper for lapping at a few pence.
So for the films and a strop and block it’s £50 and around the same for a Naniwa 12k which, barring any big chips, is all you need.
having used both and got great resulted with them I’d recommend the Naniwa, it’s just simpler to use.
So roughly £50 and a bit of practice will ensure your blade is kept in tip top condition with minimal effort.
This set up has been working for me for the last 12 months.
Next I bought a Naniwa 12k for £45 on eBay which is a lot simpler to use and will last years by the looks of it. I also bought a granite tile for £8 and some 320 grit sandpaper for lapping at a few pence.
So for the films and a strop and block it’s £50 and around the same for a Naniwa 12k which, barring any big chips, is all you need.
having used both and got great resulted with them I’d recommend the Naniwa, it’s just simpler to use.
So roughly £50 and a bit of practice will ensure your blade is kept in tip top condition with minimal effort.
This set up has been working for me for the last 12 months.
As for simplest as in best results with least amount of skills, I think ”science of sharp” method is worth looking into, but I have come to understand its not well regarded around here.
It uses only edge trailing strokes (stropping) which are a lot less sensitive to pressure and skill than edge leading. I get crap results in comparison when trying to hone edge leading.
It uses only edge trailing strokes (stropping) which are a lot less sensitive to pressure and skill than edge leading. I get crap results in comparison when trying to hone edge leading.
Where did you find the acrylic in the UK?
I had no luck and ended up with glass cut to size, but would like to get some acrylic blocks.
I can’t remember the name of the company but try this link
www.theplasticpeople.co.uk
I just found it on google it looks ideal
Acrylic Block - Cut to Size | The Plastic People
Order clear as glass acrylic block sheets online today at The Plastic People. With a range of thicknesses available, we can also cut your plastic to size. Buy now!
Many thanks!I can’t remember the name of the company but try this link
I just found it on google it looks idealAcrylic Block - Cut to Size | The Plastic People
Order clear as glass acrylic block sheets online today at The Plastic People. With a range of thicknesses available, we can also cut your plastic to size. Buy now!
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I browsed ”science of sharp” website. I was disoriented by the website.
I can understand that. Sorry for not beeing more specific. Look for the ” Simple Straight Razor Honing” post. I am not sure linking is allowed here.
Its still a pretty info heavy.
To summarize it.
1. you need to have properly set bevel. If not then do it on a 1k stone.
2. strop on a 4k or finer stone
3 strop on denim, pasted with any kind of generic metalpolish. This step removes the wire edge.
At this stage you should have a pretty decent edge
4. strop on clean leather or strop on diamond pasted leather then clean leather.
5. shave
That sounds very similar to Murray Carter's approach is one based on the other?
Yes it mentions to his method, but skipps ”deburring” by dragging the edge on wood, which according electronmicroscope imaging damages the edge.
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It’s similar. I think people misinterpreted Murray’s point entirely. They got caught up in the details. He was emphasizing it is a simple process and does not require a multitude of stones and progressions. Basically set bevel, finish and strop.
His deburring method was a little strange but he only uses edge trailing strokes and comes from a knife background. If you leave that part out it’s a simple method that works. I’ve personally experienced the edges on his knives and the man knows sharp steel.
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Looks cool
Can you give a link please?
Feather Artist Club SS or DX with Artist Club Pro blades.
Doesn't make sense, but I can confirm that!
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