Weekend Project: Wood Scales a Razor Sleeves

[dpetrzelka]

This weekend I've been working on two new sets of scales for some friends.
One is Oregon myrtle the other African mahongany. These are much thinner than my previous figured walnut, and the proportions feel much nicer.
Ebony wedges in both.

 

[dpetrzelka]

And I needed some more razor sleeves, so I sewed sewed some up - added little ribbon tags for labeling razors, or maybe 7 day sets. ( the two with light stitching are ones I purchased )

 

[global_dev]

Sweet, like the idea of the tags.

 

[dpetrzelka]

Thanks global_dev - It will make it easier to track what is in each one.

I got carried away and sewed several months supply - but once you get a serger set up and running right, you just keep going.

 

[daflorc]

IMO, thinner scales like that are always better. Some guys make thicker scales, but I think that reflects more of a lack of tools and/or skill. Thick, clunky scales look amateurish and throw the balance off. Good work!

 

[global_dev]

Daflorc, while I typically agree about chunk and finish, I've had a pair that were too thin and light and I felt just the same way.

 

[pmaster]

Nice work! Also prefer the thinner scales. Its a lot of work to get them there, but they often look much better and feel better to handle when shaving.

 

[Firewalker]

And I needed some more razor sleeves, so I sewed sewed some up - added little ribbon tags for labeling razors, or maybe 7 day sets. ( the two with light stitching are ones I purchased )

Couple questions for you, how wide are the sleeves and how long are they? I see the tangs hanging out one end, are they just not fit all the way in? Will the razors fall out if you tip the sleeve over?

+2 on the thinner scales, not a fan of chunky scales at all.

 

[dpetrzelka]

Firewalker - I'll measure the width and length tonight.

Mine are open on one end, and yes the razor will fall out if you tip it down - the tangs are slighlty exposed so you can clearly see that a razor is in the sleeve, and tell which end is open. ( the razors in the photos are sticking out further for effect - so you could see they are full - they go in further )

Now that I've added tags the top is more easily identified.

A longer sleeve with drawstring solution is on deck for the next batch so the razor can be stored more securely. In the spirit of tradition I'll be using a vintage Elite sewing machine for adding the drawstring - to balance out the use of the serger. Just trying to make these a little different than what I've seen.

 

[Firewalker]

They are very nicely done, bravo!

 

[daflorc]

Daflorc, while I typically agree about chunk and finish, I've had a pair that were too thin and light and I felt just the same way.

True, a "too thin" extreme can also be a bad thing, but most people don't have that problem when making their own scales.

 

[Kentos]

Why not make the sleeves narrower so the razors don't slip out?

 

[Firewalker]

Why not make the sleeves narrower so the razors don't slip out?

The gun socks I have for rifles are very snug, even without a scope, I wouldn't use them if they weren't. I feel the same way about the sleeves.

 

[dpetrzelka]

An update on the wood scales:

After several coats of Tru-oil, and a some days thoroughly drying, I re-pinned the two razors with 1/16" brass rod, and standard #0 brass washers. The African mahogany is growing on me - reminds me of my grandpa's old sail boat. But Myrtle, both in color, and the way the work finishes is my favorite.

 

[dpetrzelka]

And another set of scales - this time in light figured myrtle.

 

[daflorc]

You're making some nice scales there! Now I'm gonna throw a curve ball at you

Right now you are working with stable, straight-grained woods. That wood can be cut thin and still maintain strength and flexibility. Eventually you might want to work with end-grain, or highly-burled and spalted wood - this wood is not typically flexible - much of it is ver brittle - and you cannot (without much effort and precaution and know-how) make scales that thin for that kind of wood. What I (and most people who can nice scales) do is to use 1/8" thick wood, and dome the entire scale, leaving the wood thickest in the middle, and thinnest at all the edges. This gives you a stronger, more stable scale, and adds an extra element of coolness and craftsmanship to your scales. Here's an example pic - the DD on the left illustrates what I'm talking about, while the one on the right reflects your current strategy:

 

[dpetrzelka]

daflorc - beautiful work - I've been admiring that one on the right from some other posts.

Do you ever use penetrating epoxy on those burls or highly figured pieces? I had good luck stabilizing wood for other projects by use of those super thin epoxies. Really nasty stuff, and I avoid it whenever possible, but a viable option, especially on spalting.

 

[global_dev]

Y What I (and most people who can nice scales) do is to use 1/8" thick wood, and dome the entire scale, leaving the wood thickest in the middle, and thinnest at all the edges. This gives you a stronger, more stable scale, and adds an extra element of coolness and craftsmanship to your scales.

i believe this to be very good advice daflorc! i noticed it on some older restores i bought a couple years ago and it definitely increases, IMHO, the form and function of the razor as a whole.

 

[dpetrzelka]

I have some 1/8" spalted maple and koa - I'll try the doming method on a set soon. Thanks guys.

Daflorc - is the one on the left laminated to some backing material? For strength or just aesthetics?