Vintage straight razors quality - does the Brand matter?

[TheBeast]

Dear vintage straight razors enthusiasts, I have a newbie question.

In your experience, are some brands "better" than others? Better in the sense of how they take an edge, keep an edge, react to the hones I have, how they shave, how even the grind is, how straight they are.

I have a feeling there is a general preference for some brands of razors, for example, wade&butcher, bengal,...

But on ebay I Can find all sorts of brands, American, European, Asian. I have to have the razors shipped to central Europe, so from USA it's somewhere around 20-25 USD, thats quite a lot. I don't mind paying for a few pieces that I feel like I really want to have. But if I want to keep trying out different razors, I'm going to hunt for cheaper ones, with cheaper shipping. That means I am going to be looking at listings closer to me. I know solingen, Sheffield for example is solid but I want to try more, which are often not talked about at All. Sure if the steel is pitted through and through because it wasn't stored right, the Brand isn't going to matter. And in time I am going to learn myself what I find "better" and why. I just want to shed the feeling I have to Stick to something that is popular for whatever reason. And to gain some confidence to spend 30-40 bucks on a piece thats not mention a lot if at all, that it's going to be mostly about preference and going to be a piece of you know what. So if you don't mind sharing your thoughts if you tried a lot of various razors from all around the world. What you like in which and what you don't. Thanks.

 

[Mitzie]

All SRs made before WW2 will be made of 'purer' steel and will hold an edge better and longer

 

[Lightcs1776]

Brand definitely matters. Some brands make razors that don't hold an edge. There are some well liked brands, such as Boker and Dovo. I have purchased older used razors for under $40 that were quite effective, such as one from Geneva Cutlery. You can keep an eye on the Buy Sell Trade (BST) section for affordable straight razors. Don't forget that you will also need a strop to maintain the edge. You can send the razor out to get sharpened or sharpen yourself with stones or film.

 

[TheBeast]

Brand definitely matters. Some brands make razors that don't hold an edge. There are some well liked brands, such as Boker and Dovo. I have purchased older used razors for under $40 that were quite effective, such as one from Geneva Cutlery. You can keep an eye on the Buy Sell Trade (BST) section for affordable straight razors. Don't forget that you will also need a strop to maintain the edge. You can send the razor out to get sharpened or sharpen yourself with stones or film.

Thanks. I have two vintage French razors, eskilstuna and a few gold dollars for experiments and I learn honing, my edges have a long way to go but I Can get a decent enough shave out of them. I just want to start trying some more vintages but am hesitant to make a purchase without having a bit of general info and guidence from people with experience.

 

[silverlifter]

I just want to start trying some more vintages but am hesitant to make a purchase without having a bit of general info and guidence from people with experience.

There is some helpful info on the wiki. Start here:

Category:Straight Razor Manufacturer

This page is intended to list all Straight Razors manufacturers, vintage or currently in production.

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Kyle89]

I don't have a ton of experience with vintage razors but I've cleaned up a few that I've bought out in the wild at random in various degrees of condition for super cheap. My old Bengall Cast Steel and my Henckels 56 (I believe) stand out. You may find a dud but also you may find a razor that really surprises you. I found an old razor called "The Artist by Levering" or something like that which is a little 5/8ths full hollow dinky thing but funny enough it's in my "never sell" pile. You may find a random gem here and here that people don't usually rave about, and it's even better if you pay practically nothing for it lol.

 

[TheBeast]

I don't have a ton of experience with vintage razors but I've cleaned up a few that I've bought out in the wild at random in various degrees of condition for super cheap. My old Bengall Cast Steel and my Henckels 56 (I believe) stand out. You may find a dud but also you may find a razor that really surprises you. I found an old razor called "The Artist by Levering" or something like that which is a little 5/8ths full hollow dinky thing but funny enough it's in my "never sell" pile. You may find a random gem here and here that people don't usually rave about, and it's even better if you pay practically nothing for it lol.

I need to step Up my research game, I never see something under 30 I'm interested in, in condition I feel like I could restore...

 

[Seelector]

I need to step Up my research game, I never see something under 30 I'm interested in, in condition I feel like I could restore...

Sometimes you have to take a chance. My first straight off eBay was a 5/8 Boker for about $30 CAD. I still use it regularly. My best score was 3 junk razors “for pinning or honing practice.” Came to $15 with shipping. Two were garbage but one was a gem, a 5/8 Larkin. Hollow ground with no warp and it takes a great edge.

I’ve read a bunch of times that American razors are usually well ground and the price is usually pretty good.

 

[Legion]

While there are many brands that are known to be good, the fact that you might not have heard of a brand does not mean it is not good. There were squillions of different brands made, and most have faded into obscurity. To further confuse the matter, the factories that made the hyped and expensive razors people are now chasing also made brands that have been forgotten, but are of an equal quality. They are the bargains, if you can find them.

As always with vintage straights, condition is generally more important than the stamp.

 

[Wid]

While there are many brands that are known to be good, the fact that you might not have heard of a brand does not mean it is not good. There were squillions of different brands made, and most have faded into obscurity. To further confuse the matter, the factories that made the hyped and expensive razors people are now chasing also made brands that have been forgotten, but are of an equal quality. They are the bargains, if you can find them.

As always with vintage straights, condition is generally more important than the stamp.

This right here. Look for condition more so than brand.

 

[Gamma]

Hmm.
Concerning 'vintage' razors, I've yet to see a an entire 'brand' that didn't hold an edge.

But does brand matter?
Well, I think evaluating a razor on it's own merits, and weighing condition in heavily matters more.
I look for condition first, then blade size and grind. Source? Meh...I might go on a hunt for a Swede or a Sheffield but not because one is better. I might just feel like getting a Swede razor up and running.
Different makers did things differently so there are style things and steel things and whathaveyou.. but likes and dislikes are highly subjective and prone to interpretation.

What's better or best, is in the eye of the beholder.
Try stuff, see what you like, that is what is best for you.

 

[Steve56]

Dear vintage straight razors enthusiasts, I have a newbie question.

In your experience, are some brands "better" than others? Better in the sense of how they take an edge, keep an edge, react to the hones I have, how they shave, how even the grind is, how straight they are.

I have a feeling there is a general preference for some brands of razors, for example, wade&butcher, bengal,...

But on ebay I Can find all sorts of brands, American, European, Asian. I have to have the razors shipped to central Europe, so from USA it's somewhere around 20-25 USD, thats quite a lot. I don't mind paying for a few pieces that I feel like I really want to have. But if I want to keep trying out different razors, I'm going to hunt for cheaper ones, with cheaper shipping. That means I am going to be looking at listings closer to me. I know solingen, Sheffield for example is solid but I want to try more, which are often not talked about at All. Sure if the steel is pitted through and through because it wasn't stored right, the Brand isn't going to matter. And in time I am going to learn myself what I find "better" and why. I just want to shed the feeling I have to Stick to something that is popular for whatever reason. And to gain some confidence to spend 30-40 bucks on a piece thats not mention a lot if at all, that it's going to be mostly about preference and going to be a piece of you know what. So if you don't mind sharing your thoughts if you tried a lot of various razors from all around the world. What you like in which and what you don't. Thanks.

Yes and no.

- Many brands were manufactured over several generations of owners, and the razors varied a bit over time
- Many brands were manufactured over several generations of steel manufacturing technology
- Many brands offered different grinds, and still do
- England and Germany made immense amounts of razors over centuries of all price points. Some were crude, and some were beautiful. A fine vintage razor from either country will delight you regardless of how ‘fancy’ it is.
- Japanese, Swedish, American, and early French razors tended to be very well made, but more utilitarian. The steel in all these seem to be generally harder than the later English and German razors. Note that early French razors - 1800s era, tended to be very coarsely finished though the steel was good. There are exceptions like Touron for example, that are beautiful..

If you want to explore new countries, try Japanese. They’re mostly half hollow or heavier, but good steel. JRazors are new enough that you can still find NOS easily if you want, and good ones are at a good price point compared to any new razor. No super wide razors though.

 

[TheBeast]

Well thanks for chipping in, great tips as always. I had like 20 razors in the watchlist, I ordered one that felt like the "best" one. Its stamped as George Gill & Sons, Sheffield. It cost 23 GBP but that turned into 55€ after shipping and VAT, which is annoying. But I wanted a piece exactly like that, black polished scales, no shoulded/stabilizer, american point and around 6/8, with a box and very little wear or oxidation. I am going to just go for some USSR razor and see, theres a lot around me, way cheaper too. If I have to skip a night out so be it haha, its alright even if it wont be perfect. Hopefully teach me something along the way.

 

[Legion]

Well thanks for chipping in, great tips as always. I had like 20 razors in the watchlist, I ordered one that felt like the "best" one. Its stamped as George Gill & Sons, Sheffield. It cost 23 GBP but that turned into 55€ after shipping and VAT, which is annoying. But I wanted a piece exactly like that, black polished scales, no shoulded/stabilizer, american point and around 6/8, with a box and very little wear or oxidation. I am going to just go for some USSR razor and see, theres a lot around me, way cheaper too. If I have to skip a night out so be it haha, its alright even if it wont be perfect. Hopefully teach me something along the way.

Yep.I don't have much experience with USSR razors, but if they are cheap where you are, get one or two to practice on before you work on your Sheffield razor.

 

[CpnStumpy]

Well thanks for chipping in, great tips as always. I had like 20 razors in the watchlist, I ordered one that felt like the "best" one. Its stamped as George Gill & Sons, Sheffield. It cost 23 GBP but that turned into 55€ after shipping and VAT, which is annoying. But I wanted a piece exactly like that, black polished scales, no shoulded/stabilizer, american point and around 6/8, with a box and very little wear or oxidation. I am going to just go for some USSR razor and see, theres a lot around me, way cheaper too. If I have to skip a night out so be it haha, its alright even if it wont be perfect. Hopefully teach me something along the way.

> In 1901, this firm was listed in Eyre Street at the former address of George Gill & Son.

...

> However, the company was liquidated in 1948.

So there's some reasonable dating information, prior to 1901 the son wasn't plural, and the brand ended in 1948. Likely manufacturing of straight razors in Sheffield slowed in the 40s during the war, so there's a 40 year range that razor came from. Scale material can be instructive to more accuracy but it's generally still guesswork.

Source: George Gill & Sons (Sheffield) Ltd - https://www.hawleysheffieldknives.com/n-fulldetails.php?val=gill&kel=841

The reason I raise the age here is it can be very instructive to your original question. Brands have differences between them, but I would say the bigger difference you'll find in straight razors is the time and place of manufacturing. Brand aside, there tends to be consistency in the way straight razors were manufactured at any given time in a given place.

All of this rarely equates though to quality differences, but more to characteristic differences which people form preferences for: steel type, blade width, grind, shoulder, smile, point, decoration, scale material etc. There's a reason points have country names, the country and era usually tell more about a straight razor than the brand.

To that point: my one Sheffield from the same era as yours is an American point full hollow 6/8. Same traits you said yours is. Rather large blade too, and I love it. I expect you'll quite enjoy yours as well.

 

[5whiskey]

Good advice from all. I don't have much to add really, other than it IS getting harder to find inexpensive razors on the big auction site that are worth buying. They are out there though. Buy for condition and/or features, worry less about the brand. Sure, there were some lesser razors made in the 1920s... but not very many. Most anything from Sheffield, Eskiltuna, Solingen, or the US in that era will be of decent quality.

I actually want a USSR razor. I have a friend who has one. The blade was warped, but he did get it shave ready eventually. I don't think it shaved great. But it worked.

 

[TheBeast]

Good advice from all. I don't have much to add really, other than it IS getting harder to find inexpensive razors on the big auction site that are worth buying. They are out there though. Buy for condition and/or features, worry less about the brand. Sure, there were some lesser razors made in the 1920s... but not very many. Most anything from Sheffield, Eskiltuna, Solingen, or the US in that era will be of decent quality.

I actually want a USSR razor. I have a friend who has one. The blade was warped, but he did get it shave ready eventually. I don't think it shaved great. But it worked.

Yeah no way around it but to try and see for myself. I got two USSR razors, one Sheffield, one eskilstuna, two french straights, a solingen and a german "magnetic cutlery"... that one is for chip removal training anyway. Dreaming about a big wade & butcher but those are pricey. I need more time on the stones and in the shaves to actually learn somethin, I feel like.