Variant / Progress users, need some help...

[Umma2gumma]

OK so I have been trying to get better at using my Variant for the past week but I feel that at low settings, I still can't get the same efficiency with it as I get with my mild Baili 176 (both are loaded with Astra SP).

I do get BBS - but it takes longer and requires more passes than I expected.

In order to get more efficient with it I need to open it to 3 or more, which at this point is a bit more aggressive than I'd like to use. Especially on my neck and throat, which is where most of the hard-to-get stubble and most of the irritation happens.

I read multiple praises of both the Variant and the Progress that it "shamelessly" copied the head of. If anything, people claim that Variant seems more aggressive than Progress at same settings.

I do not have blade alignment or gap issues, from all I can see there's absolutely nothing out of order with my razor.

So, it must be the technique.

From examining Variant side by side with 176, I can see a few things right away:

- the Variant head is much thicker, including the guard bar
- Variant has more blade exposure
- at low values, Variant has much less gap than 176.
- the guard bar on 176 is thin and is turning away from the blade at a very steep angle, combined with a fairly generous gap this I believe makes the razor fairly insensitive to the shaving angle, while the small amount of blade exposure keeps it mild.
- the guard bar on Variant is thick and sticks out quite a bit, so at small settings (narrow gap) there's only a small window of opportunity for the blade to get good contact with skin - holding the razor at either a steeper or shallower angle would greatly reduce efficiency. At the same time there's a lot more blade sticking out, by eyeballing it at least 30% more. So I think the thickness and shape of the guard bar is the main culprit... the question is, how do I improve my technique to account for this. I tried different angles but still am not where I'd like to be.

So, the question to the seasoned Progress / Variant users... how do you achieve higher efficiency at lower settings ? What shaving angle do you use ? And do you find that at low settings, this head design is less efficient than some well designed mild razors ?

Thanks !

 

[DE Steve]

I get a 2.5 pass BBS with my Progress set to 1.5 (newer Progress, zeroes on the + sign).

Not sure whats happening with your Varient.

 

[Umma2gumma]

I get a 2.5 pass BBS with my Progress set to 1.5 (newer Progress, zeroes on the + sign).

Not sure whats happening with your Varient.

I don't get a BBS with any razor in less than 3 full passes and some cleanup.
Of course everyone's hair and everyone's definition of BBS are different.

I have coarse stubble, and I consider the shave to be of BBS quality when I rub my finger against the grain and don't feel a thing.

Usually this requires cleanup around Adam's apple, along the chin line, it two spots under the chin where it connects to throat, and just under the cheekbones.

 

[THall]

OK so I have been trying to get better at using my Variant for the past week but I feel that at low settings, I still can't get the same efficiency with it as I get with my mild Baili 176 (both are loaded with Astra SP).

I do get BBS - but it takes longer and requires more passes than I expected.

In order to get more efficient with it I need to open it to 3 or more, which at this point is a bit more aggressive than I'd like to use. Especially on my neck and throat, which is where most of the hard-to-get stubble and most of the irritation happens.

I read multiple praises of both the Variant and the Progress that it "shamelessly" copied the head of. If anything, people claim that Variant seems more aggressive than Progress at same settings.

I do not have blade alignment or gap issues, from all I can see there's absolutely nothing out of order with my razor.

So, it must be the technique.

From examining Variant side by side with 176, I can see a few things right away:

- the Variant head is much thicker, including the guard bar
- Variant has more blade exposure
- at low values, Variant has much less gap than 176.
- the guard bar on 176 is thin and is turning away from the blade at a very steep angle, combined with a fairly generous gap this I believe makes the razor fairly insensitive to the shaving angle, while the small amount of blade exposure keeps it mild.
- the guard bar on Variant is thick and sticks out quite a bit, so at small settings (narrow gap) there's only a small window of opportunity for the blade to get good contact with skin - holding the razor at either a steeper or shallower angle would greatly reduce efficiency. At the same time there's a lot more blade sticking out, by eyeballing it at least 30% more. So I think the thickness and shape of the guard bar is the main culprit... the question is, how do I improve my technique to account for this. I tried different angles but still am not where I'd like to be.

So, the question to the seasoned Progress / Variant users... how do you achieve higher efficiency at lower settings ? What shaving angle do you use ? And do you find that at low settings, this head design is less efficient than some well designed mild razors ?

Thanks !

Any long threaded Merkur top cap, not just the Progress cap, fits like a glove on the Parker. I bought 3 caps on the Bay, one for me and two for my sons. Not thick up top like the Variant cap. Overall smoother and more maneuverable.

There is a number on the bottom of the Merkur caps, I use this as my “arrow” for alignment.

To align the Variant with another cap simply take out the blade, place the top cap back on and tighten, adjust to lowest gap, and observe how far your numbers are off on the dial with the lowest setting (Choose the +/Trust me). Put the head in a towel and while keeping the head still, turn the handle. It will turn at the base of the baseplate where it meets the handle. Turn left or right in small increments until you reach the + setting. Why +? The Merkur cap, although smoother, makes the Variant more aggressive per setting.

One of the best shaves you can have. Enjoy.

 

[THall]

You don’t have to calibrate the numbers with the dial if you’re good at math. My instructions looked detailed but it is ridiculously easy and takes a minute yet you don’t have to.

Do not bend the handle, only turn it as the head remains still. I posted a thread on this a while back.

For people that want the best of both razors, this is an easy solution.

 

[THall]

There are some pictures on my May of 2018 thread.

Vargress

 

[tonich]

BBS is overrated!

 

[Umma2gumma]

I analyzed what I've been doing and decided that my angle was wrong - I need to keep the razor handle closer to my face.

I also tried doing the first WTG pass at a low setting to "condition" the skin and take a bit of stubble off - I think I used 2 - and then opened it up to 3 and then 3.5 for XTG / ATG and cleanup.

It worked much better and I was done faster, with just one weeper on my most problematic spot (Adam's apple).

This was with an Astra blade on it's 3rd pass, when it tends to be the smoothest.

Will see if this still works tomorrow with a fresh blade.

 

[sg01fc]

Not a seasoned Variant user, just got it but had some thoughts from my shaves so far. For me I've only gone with a 2 setting for first pass wtg, down to a 1 for the xtg for two passes (once each way) and it's given me my closest shaves to date with a de razor. The angle really does make a difference and at 1 on my xtg I've found it's really smooth for my with the least chance for nicks. My previous shaver was the Razorock SLOC which I thought was mild yet effective. So far the Variant is even more so. May try to up the setting to 3 on my wtg pass then back to 1 for the xtg next week.

 

[Marlor]

I analyzed what I've been doing and decided that my angle was wrong - I need to keep the razor handle closer to my face.

The Progress/Variant has an extreme blade bend. This is the best feature of the razor (it holds the blade rigid), but it also means you need to shave at a much steeper angle than with most other razors (i.e. more parallel with the skin than perpendicular).

On my Progress (which zeroes at “+”) I get the best results with a first pass at “1” then a second pass at “1.5”. But I’m not sure what that translates to in terms of the Variant.

Also it’s worth noting that the Variant has a thicker top cap than the Progress. If that’s an issue, you can just swap in a Merkur cap.

 

[nav]

The Progress/Variant has an extreme blade bend. This is the best feature of the razor (it holds the blade rigid), but it also means you need to shave at a much steeper angle than with most other razors (i.e. more parallel with the skin than perpendicular).

On my Progress (which zeroes at “+”) I get the best results with a first pass at “1” then a second pass at “1.5”. But I’m not sure what that translates to in terms of the Variant.

Also it’s worth noting that the Variant has a thicker top cap than the Progress. If that’s an issue, you can just swap in a Merkur cap.

Couldn't have said it better myself!

I prefer the progress to the variant.
Also, I like the short handle progress better than the long handle but I have both and won't be getting rid of either.

The blade bend is indeed the best feature of the razor and unique when compared to the rest. The razor has a very intuitive blade angle.

 

[Umma2gumma]

Well, I can say with confidence now that my issue was mostly related to blade angle. Variant seems much more finicky than my other razors in that respect, especially at lower settings. I found that I have to hold it more parallel with the face, i.e. not ride the cap like I tended to.

OTOH, I got a little too cheeky after having a nice shave with a 3-day Astra SP set to 3, and attempted the same with a brand new Personna Blue this morning, even though the first time I used Personna in a much milder razor, I got a lot of unexpected cuts. Predictably, this resulted in a blood bath... three cuts on my chin and throat one of which bled pretty bad. After dialing it down to 2, I proceeded to have a nice clean shave on the rest of my face, so lesson learned. For now, I will stick to Astras and Parkers if I feel the need to dial the razor up above the "training wheel" settings.

 

[Umma2gumma]

Stupid me... I did not properly align the marks on the head and base when inserting a new blade and my “3” was actually a “5”.. no wonder I got cut.

That said, it *was* an extremely close and effective shave that lasts a long time.. so an incentive to get more skilled with higher settings.

 

[cyberdog]

Both the Variant & Progress curve the blade more, requiring a steeper angle (handle closer to face). Same with the Fat-Boy over the Slim, and Timeless, just to name a couple of others.

 

[Capt Red Beard]

I’ve just recently purchased a short handle Progress and have about 3 shaves under my belt with it(figuratively speaking of course). I agree with the masses in here, angle is everything. I had 3 days growth and did a WTG at a 3. XTG at a 3 and ATG 1.5. Closest and most comfortable shave I’ve ever had with an Astra blade. I may be retiring the rest of my DE’s after today. Happy shaves Gents.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[syljal]

Ex owner of a weishi and mekur barber pole i return to mach 3 after 6 month of burns and cuts. After a year i receive today a Merkur Progress and try it with the merkur blade include in the box. Wow made 3 pass #1 at 3, #2 at 2 and #3 at 1. BBS shave. I was affraid to receive progress with trouble, but receive a marvelous piece of art. Next time i will shave again with 3 pass but inverse the gap #1 at 1 #2 at 2 and #3 at 3