Trumper's and Taylor's advise to never shave ATG

[Professor Jones]

Some of you might already know this, but on Trumper's and Taylor's websites it is advised to never shave AGT

From Trumper's site :

Using a good blade that has been warmed in the sink or under hot running water, shave the face in the direction of the beard growth, rinsing the blade in hot water frequently. Never shave 'against the grain' of the beard, in awkward areas such as the chin and under the nose the blade can be moved sideways across the growth - but never against as this pulls the skin in the wrong direction causing small cuts and 'grazing' to the skin and is the most common cause of 'razor burn', in-grown hairs and shaving rash. Rinse the face thoroughly with cool water and pat dry with a soft towel.

From Taylor's site :

Always shave in the direction of the hair growth as shaving against the grain can cause razor burns and in-growing hairs. If the hairs towards the base of the throat are growing in the opposite direction to the rest of the face, i.e. upwards, you must shave upwards in that area.

This is intriguing because AFAIK, the majority of people who are into wet shaving do shave against the grain, yet these two well respected companies specialized in traditional shaving say to never do it. What do you think about this ?

 

[gsurko]

I do what works for me, ATG every time.

 

[dellbarnes]

Its not bad advice, honestly. Many are discouraged initially by the need to achieve BBS every shave, which in most cases means ATG passes. Dropping the paradigm (the need to get BBS or got ATG every shave) would go far for those getting into WS.
So as advice, its great stuff. As a rule, well, we're not big on those are we?
For what its worth: I almost never go ATG on the neck/throat. On the face, maybe once or twice a week. I found that it is easier for me to go ATG with much milder razors, or a Super Adjustable turned low. But those shavers need that ATG pass more than does my daily driver, the Cadet OC, which does an awesome 1-pass with Russian Perma-sharps, but great care and more time must be available for ATGs. And it does irritate to some degree.

 

[Steveareno]

I go one pass with and one pass across, and this usually gets me to a DFS everywhere and almost to BBS in most places. Then I do a final, VERY light against the grain pass in a few spots which does a good job of catching stragglers. The ATG pass is really kind of a touch up pass and I use the lightest touch with the razor I can manage.

 

[the_edski]

Gillette says that 5 blades are better than 1, so...... Sometimes you just have to do what feels right to you.

 

[hillcpa]

I'm a noob, but Steveareno's method is what I have sort of naturally settled into. I would think beard/skin type and blade would have a lot to do with whether ATG is a good idea.

 

[njpaddy]

Been shaving ATG with injectors, carts or DE for almost 50 years and don't plan to stop. As for in-growns, I stopped getting them when I stopped using carts.

 

[Professor Jones]

Gillette says that 5 blades are better than 1, so...... Sometimes you just have to do what feels right to you.

Yes but Gillette is far from being a respected company in the wet shaving world (quite the contrary actually) and they want to sell you their "high tech" useless junk. Trumper and Taylor don't have that kind of agenda, saying that one should never shave ATG is not going to increase their sales...

 

[shavefreak]

I am ATG everyday - I can't stand it any other way. I could fly with a Mach 3 ATG and be smoother than a single and side pass DE or SE.

Daily I use a SE razor with ATG on the second pass weekdays, maybe add a side on a weekend or skip day for fun. I do nick a bit with my "Ferrari" of single edge razors the ever ready streamline if rushing or trying a lesser soap but I never have bumps or ingrowns. Great prep and and post with Alum and a quality balm of course. I am not fine or course I suspect you can train your face for ATG over time unless middle eastern decent I could see that being difficult.

 

[Coler]

I think Trumpers and TOBS are just taking a conservative position as regards method of shaving which they are willing to advise, in circumstances where shaving ATG is one of the greatest 'YMMV' processes out there in the world of wet shaving, and if it doesn't work for you you are almost certainly going to be a bit sore afterwards.

 

[PFP_Dad]

I tend to agree with them. I very rarely do ATG; the irritation outweighs the benefit.

 

[Dusty1]

They are probably giving a legally safe answer. I'm surprised they don't tell you to wear safety glasses.

 

[Occams_Razor]

They are probably giving a legally safe answer. I'm surprised they don't tell you to wear safety glasses.

What about regular glasses? I have to wear my old crappy pair when I shave because my giant hornrims get in the way of my ATG passes haha

 

[heybatter]

I go one pass with and one pass across, and this usually gets me to a DFS everywhere and almost to BBS in most places. Then I do a final, VERY light against the grain pass in a few spots which does a good job of catching stragglers. The ATG pass is really kind of a touch up pass and I use the lightest touch with the razor I can manage.

+1, same for me.

 

[Galengwath]

Taylors is certainly right to say that shaving against the grain CAN cause razor burn. It certainly can, and for many it does. That isn't to say it always will, as many of us can attest, but it's still decent advice on the whole. And the suggestion of not shaving against the grain under the nose makes perfect sense to me as a straight razor user. I like my nose.

 

[KipNoxzema]

I go with what works. Their statement seems contradictory. If you use the hot water method they talk about, it shouldn't pull the whiskers as much; it should slice right through 'em. Oh well, proper prep and method always wins the day.

 

[k2clones29]

Trumper's also says their soaps are better without tallow, so.......

 

[viper16]

Most articles I have read written by dermatologist seem to recommend only going WTG when shaving. That is likely the safest advice for shaving from a liability standpoint. Imagine someone who relies on their looks for their job shaving ATG on recommendation from a doctor or razor company, they get horrible ingrown hairs that have them out of work for a week or so recovering, that screams lawsuit.

 

[the_edski]

I should have put my quote about Gillette around *sarcasm* */end sarcasm".

Yes but Gillette is far from being a respected company in the wet shaving world (quite the contrary actually) and they want to sell you their "high tech" useless junk. Trumper and Taylor don't have that kind of agenda, saying that one should never shave ATG is not going to increase their sales...

 

[LarryDarrell]

It's a disclaimer really, ATG is most likely to be the cause of irritation or injury is done poorly. It's like the makers of Q-Tips saying never to insert them into the ear canal, which is the main thing they are used for. They know it will be done, but if it goes wrong, you were warned.