Too Close for Comfort?

[Steve_in_CT]

For most of my 50 or so shaving years I've used a double edged razor. There were some injector years back in the 1960's and some cartridge years in the 1990's, but mostly it's been double edged razors. The two most used would be a Gillette black beauty and more recently an Edwin Jagger DE89. For some reason I decided that I needed to find something that could provider a closer shave. And I found it! I have two Fatip open comb razors, a Piccolo and one with a wooden handle. They both provide the same, extremely close and comfortable shave. Except that for me such a close shave results in ingrown hairs. i thought it might be preparation or technique, but a little bit of online research has convinced me that in fact shaving too close to the skin can result in ingrown hairs (aka razor bumps) particularly for folks with curly hair. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2015/01/150128170057.htm

So I think that will be the end of my search for a razor that provides a closer shave. I still have several double edged razors with which I can get a fine shave, but I don't think I'll look to any more.

 

[Rhody]

You must have been getting super close.

 

[Badgerstate36]

There is such a thing as getting too close of a shave. If you are getting razor bumps, you are shaving the hair below the level of the skin.
Personally, since I started using a slant, I had to stop shaving ATG because I would get a bunch of weepers every time. I simply do 1 WTG pass and then 2 XTG. It doesnt get me to BBS but it gets me to about 90% BBS, with no irritation or weepers.

 

[ScottChapin]

How many passes do you normally do? Which type? My hair is neither coarse nor curly, so I might be lucky there.


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[Steve_in_CT]

How many passes do you normally do? Which type? My hair is neither coarse nor curly, so I might be lucky there.


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I have always done a two pass shave, and I have a coarse, curly beard. If you don’t have coarse or curly hair you should try a Fatip open comb.

 

[ScottChapin]

I have always done a two pass shave, and I have a coarse, curly beard. If you don’t have coarse or curly hair you should try a Fatip open comb.

It’s my next contemplation for sure.


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[mozartman]

For most of my 50 or so shaving years I've used a double edged razor. There were some injector years back in the 1960's and some cartridge years in the 1990's, but mostly it's been double edged razors. The two most used would be a Gillette black beauty and more recently an Edwin Jagger DE89. For some reason I decided that I needed to find something that could provider a closer shave. And I found it! I have two Fatip open comb razors, a Piccolo and one with a wooden handle. They both provide the same, extremely close and comfortable shave. Except that for me such a close shave results in ingrown hairs. i thought it might be preparation or technique, but a little bit of online research has convinced me that in fact shaving too close to the skin can result in ingrown hairs (aka razor bumps) particularly for folks with curly hair. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2015/01/150128170057.htm

So I think that will be the end of my search for a razor that provides a closer shave. I still have several double edged razors with which I can get a fine shave, but I don't think I'll look to any more.

Yes, I too have curly hair and am prone to razor bumps, but at some point in the past 42 years I learned to put comfort first and closeness second. I can't entirely agree that it's not a question of technique at all, though. I suspect with most razors, even aggressive ones, one can stay out of trouble if one is gentle and careful enough. However, there's a temptation, if one feels stubble anywhere, to keep shaving or "buffing" over that spot or press too hard. IMO, regardless of the razor used, that's a recipe for redness, irritation, rashes, acne and razor bumps, all which may only appear well after the offending shave, or as the cumulative result of a series of shaves. I try to shave exactly the same way every day regardless of the result, which is usually very good, but if I miss a spot, I'll get it tomorrow.

 

[Surgeon]

There are some spots (ex:under my chin) where the hairs grow very parallell to the skin. If I go too close they get ingrown when they grow back and are really uncomfortable and take a long time healing. I never cared about bbs or whatever and I know that I can't attain it and keep my skin healthy. I'm another who goes for comfort over closeness. I've said it a million times but: I get much closer shaves with a good de than I've ever gotten with a mach3. Not reaching the b&b standards of ultimate closeness really doesn't matter to me. As long as I get great shaves and enjoy the result AND the process, I'm good.

 

[Mtn Man]

I struggle with ingrown hairs as well. That is what got me started in traditional shaving. I have settled for 2 x WTG passes and I get a lot less problems. Everyone's skin type is different I guess. For me though I agree with you. I have definitely settled on comfort over closeness.

 

[Graybeard57]

Sounds as though you've found your ideal razor.

 

[BigJ]

So I think that will be the end of my search for a razor that provides a closer shave. I still have several double edged razors with which I can get a fine shave, but I don't think I'll look to any more.

Nice to establish precisely what works for you! Congrats!

 

[Esox]

For most of my 50 or so shaving years I've used a double edged razor. There were some injector years back in the 1960's and some cartridge years in the 1990's, but mostly it's been double edged razors. The two most used would be a Gillette black beauty and more recently an Edwin Jagger DE89. For some reason I decided that I needed to find something that could provider a closer shave. And I found it! I have two Fatip open comb razors, a Piccolo and one with a wooden handle. They both provide the same, extremely close and comfortable shave. Except that for me such a close shave results in ingrown hairs. i thought it might be preparation or technique, but a little bit of online research has convinced me that in fact shaving too close to the skin can result in ingrown hairs (aka razor bumps) particularly for folks with curly hair. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2015/01/150128170057.htm

So I think that will be the end of my search for a razor that provides a closer shave. I still have several double edged razors with which I can get a fine shave, but I don't think I'll look to any more.

I'm not sure the angle you're using the razor with, nor pressure applied, but seeing as you're not new to DE shaving I'll assume you know how .

With the exception of one or two shaves, my Fatip Grande has been the only razor I've used in months. I shave with a very shallow angle and I've only had one ingrown hair so far. That happened when I shaved with a steeper angle and got a very close shave with I think a Gillette Yellow blade.

It could be the blade exposure causing you to shave closer than you usually might. As I'm sure you're aware, all DE razors need a slight adjustment in technique to use optimally. You might try shaving with a bit more shallow an angle so the blade doesnt cut as closely.

You dont mention which blade(s) you've used. With the Fatip razors being extremely rigid designs, along with having virtually no gap whatsoever, you might find a sharper blade than what you might normally use will help cutting the hairs more evenly and cleanly. With some other razors that have a less supported blade and/or gap, theres a mechanical advantage involved that helps cut the hairs. The design of the Fatip heads remove that mechanical advantage.

I've also read about the curly hair being a cause and source of ingrown hair issues, but its just as common, if not more so, that ingrowns are caused by the hair fracturing or breaking/splitting and then being caught on the skin as they grow.



You might find a sharper blade will help solve some or all of those issues. Its been my experience so far that the more rigid the razor design and the less gap the razor offers, the more a blades sharpness comes into play.

 

[Steve_in_CT]

I'm not sure the angle you're using the razor with, nor pressure applied, but seeing as you're not new to DE shaving I'll assume you know how .

With the exception of one or two shaves, my Fatip Grande has been the only razor I've used in months. I shave with a very shallow angle and I've only had one ingrown hair so far. That happened when I shaved with a steeper angle and got a very close shave with I think a Gillette Yellow blade.

It could be the blade exposure causing you to shave closer than you usually might. As I'm sure you're aware, all DE razors need a slight adjustment in technique to use optimally. You might try shaving with a bit more shallow an angle so the blade doesnt cut as closely.

You dont mention which blade(s) you've used. With the Fatip razors being extremely rigid designs, along with having virtually no gap whatsoever, you might find a sharper blade than what you might normally use will help cutting the hairs more evenly and cleanly. With some other razors that have a less supported blade and/or gap, theres a mechanical advantage involved that helps cut the hairs. The design of the Fatip heads remove that mechanical advantage.

I've also read about the curly hair being a cause and source of ingrown hair issues, but its just as common, if not more so, that ingrowns are caused by the hair fracturing or breaking/splitting and then being caught on the skin as they grow.

View attachment 848619

You might find a sharper blade will help solve some or all of those issues. Its been my experience so far that the more rigid the razor design and the less gap the razor offers, the more a blades sharpness comes into play.

I agree that I could probably modify my technique with the Fatip to get a shave that isn’t quite as close and thus avoid ingrown hairs, but I see no point in doing so. It would just be more effort to end up with a shave equivalent to my DE89 or Feather AS-D1.
I have been using Gillette Platinum and Personna Red blades, but I may throw in a Feather blade to test your “sharper blade” theory.

 

[Esox]

I have been using Gillette Platinum and Personna Red blades, but I may throw in a Feather blade to test your “sharper blade” theory.

I cant honestly say Feathers are that sharp for me. They dont seem to cut as well as other blades do.

With my Grande I usually shave directly ATG first pass, buffing. I've been shaving like that since my 7th shave with that razor and on that shave I used a Feather blade and have once more since. Both times its taken me 3 ATG buffing passes to get the BBS finish I always go for.

With a Gillette Yellow or Polsilver its a single buffing pass and one very light clean up in the opposite direction over my swirl growth patterns.

Gillette Yellow has been the best blade I've used of the ~18 different blades I've had in it so far. Using a Yellow I felt nothing, at all, for the entire shave and didnt hear anything either. The only issue I've had with two Yellow blades so far was that one ingrown hair.

With a Polsilver, which I find very nearly as sharp, I can feel the blade more but because I shave with such a shallow angle I really have very minimal blade feel.

Both of those blades for me far outperform Feathers and I have 190 Feathers left.

You can read about my first ATG shave with a Feather here if you like at Shave #7: My Grande Journey

All shaves beyond that one have been ATG first pass at roughly 48 hours growth until I think shave 17 with a Polsilver the other day.

 

[mozartman]

I struggle with ingrown hairs as well. That is what got me started in traditional shaving. I have settled for 2 x WTG passes and I get a lot less problems. Everyone's skin type is different I guess. For me though I agree with you. I have definitely settled on comfort over closeness.

Not to make too fine a point of it, but I don't consider it "settling". I expect an absolutely no irritation / no bleeding result every time, and get it nearly every time. I also expect a very close, smooth shave and get that nearly every time, too. Not that I'm boasting. I ought to be able to get good results. I have a light beard, and only a few minor common skin problems, such as a childhood scar under my chin, some small moles, and sensitivity to some fragrances and dyes. But comfort comes first, no shame in that.