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The essence of classicism- Classic watch discussion thread!

Well I've been thinking about this for a while partly because I'm thinking of a new watch and partly because I see it turn up so often in posts and advice (here and elsewhere) that "A man should have a good classic watch". So I've decided to put down some ruminations on the subject, and hopefully get the opinions of some others too...

Frankly as an inexpericenced WIS I had to battle down a disgraceful urge for an Invicta Russian Diver (because it was massive and had a can thingy) the fact it'd look totally daft on someone with a 6.5 inch wrist seemed to elude my silly streak at the time. The watch that ultimately called to me was the (yep you guessed Submariner LV) on the rationale that the Submariner looked good 50 years ago so it should give me service without going out of style...

So I've run up a checklist for a classic piece and would like comments on my criteria and the watches that I've picked to fill them! Please suggest your own too as I'd like to see how close or far I run from the average.


Ok criteria: 1) Longevity- the deciding factor when I chose my Sub so it has to go first! :001_tt2:
2) Versatility- A good watch must have the ability to be a sole trader IMHO as most men will be reluctant to shell out again and again just so they can tell the time whilst attired differently, thus a truly classic watch must at least have a stab at looking good both in Blue jeans and black tie?
3) Personality- without a doubt the most intangible of the three criteria so far but I think that any watch that someone is about drop a significant sum on, should feel as though it gives a nod to who the wearer is or at least who he'd like to be? There is absolutely no point in buying say a Rolex Day-Date good as they are if you think it's a hateful vulgar monstrous wart of a thing(I don't think that BTW don't attack day date folks)?

So let's have my picks limited to 5 for the sake of space.

1) Patek Calatrava 5127 in white gold- Well I used the advertising line for the Calatrava as the title for this thread, clearing away all the bumff about whether you ever actually own a Patek :Yawn: and you are left with a wonderful watch that is an acceptible size for modern users at 37mm but won't become disgracefully huge if someone suddenly realises that strapping what was quite clearly conceived as a grandfather clock to your wrist is daft... Furthermore and happily IMHO Patek Philippe flies under the majority of folks radar so you won't endlessly have folk asking if it's real :a13::a7::a6::a33:
Cons: PRICE!!!! A Patek costs so much that it can only be bought on bank holidays otherwise your bank manager will see what you've done and develop an aneurysm, you've been warned...

2) Rolex Sea Dweller 16600- A Sub on steriods and the only rolex on the list I really can't say enough about this watch it's a great chunky sports watch, that also dresses up sooo well it beggars belief frankly other than the traditional -read abysmal- Rolex clasp frankly if this is as collectible as the Paul Newman in 20 years time it wouldn't surprise me!!!!

Cons- OOP so can't be bought new, alas it was replaced by the Deepsea which I honestly think is large enough to qualify as its own continent! Secondly it's a Rolex that means you will be asked if it's real again...and again...and again isn't that just magical? One guy on the Watch ya wearing thread was told his Sea Dweller wasn't real... :a13::a7::a6::a33::sod:

3) Omega Speedmaster Pro- The first watch on the moon and a great blend of history and up to date style! The display backs are gorgeous and really compliment the watch, with a plexiglass crystal and a hand wound movemnt it's a throwback that still punches well above it's weight!

Cons- I really can't think of any I suppose you could say hand winding is a PITA, but at that level of laziness I suspect breathing is a constant embuggerance.

4) The Jaeger leCoultre reverso tribute to 1931- Feel the awesome the first sports watch now finds itself mainly a dress piece but that doesn't stop it looking great anytime. Given the slightly off the beaten track choice of JLC you'll also have spent relatively little to get a watch its unlikely you'll ever find yourself staring down a roomfull of them and that can only be a good thing? Also 1931? It still looks so good so chances are your grandkids will still think your watch is cool long after they think the wearer isn't!

Cons- Perhaps despite what I said It is a little dressy for everyday and do you want your classic piece to be square? Also very low water resistance on most models no swimming!!!!

5) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15300- The Jumbo pulls the RO right up to perfect everyday size and the watch that showed a sports piece can be luxury still leads the way! By a mile despite it's age many folk looking at it will still think it a new style it seems to be limitlessly contemporary, furthermore it's sporty roots let it be harwearing enough that you need never take it off. I doubt you'd want to!


So that's it whats your thoughts? I know no datejust ***? Am I totally barking?

Regards Grant
 
I think the Sub and GMT....The JLC and Patek are classic....I had the cash in hand to get a Patek......Made an appointment to see them( you don't
just walk in)....Had it in hand...And I was totally disappointed . Maybe $3,000.00...tops. I think Patek is allot of hype. And the RO is the same, but I think
better than Patek. It's subjective.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
2) Versatility- A good watch must have the ability to be a sole trader IMHO as most men will be reluctant to shell out again and again just so they can tell the time whilst attired differently, thus a truly classic watch must at least have a stab at looking good both in Blue jeans and black tie?

Well, setting aside the fact that proper black tie means not wearing a watch ... I don't think you can get a really good watch that will suit you well in all circumstances. The watch that looks good with t-shirt & blue jeans ... when you wear a business suit ... well, you might as well wear running shoes with it. A good formal watch looks equally out of place in a very casual/sporty setting.

You need at least two watches. (If two, one should be a dress watch with leather band and off/white face, and the other should be a casual watch with metal band ... or rubber, NATO, whatever, not leather though ... and be "chunky" ... a diver, for example). This should be tweaked for individual lifestyle elements.

(These comments are aimed at watch enthusiasts ...such as the OP ... who would spend "a lot" of money on a watch(s). If someone wants to "get by" on one inexpensive watch ... hey, great.)


3) Personality- without a doubt the most intangible of the three criteria so far but I think that any watch that someone is about drop a significant sum on, should feel as though it gives a nod to who the wearer is or at least who he'd like to be? There is absolutely no point in buying say a Rolex Day-Date good as they are if you think it's a hateful vulgar monstrous wart of a thing(I don't think that BTW don't attack day date folks)?

Absolutely.

Don't buy a watch you don't like, even if all the other WIS's are buying them and think they are the cat's meow. The risk with seeking "personality" is that a watch with "personality" will typically look "unusual" in some way or another ... in some cases that works very well, but it can also lead to "fugly" really quickly.
 
Well, setting aside the fact that proper black tie means not wearing a watch ... I don't think you can get a really good watch that will suit you well in all circumstances. The watch that looks good with t-shirt & blue jeans ... when you wear a business suit ... well, you might as well wear running shoes with it. A good formal watch looks equally out of place in a very casual/sporty setting.

Absolutely.

The risk with seeking "personality" is that a watch with "personality" will typically look "unusual" in some way or another ... in some cases that works very well, but it can also lead to "fugly" really quickly.

Wow ok this is what happens when a poster who's a lot better than me tackles a subject, I had absolutely no idea that black tie meant no watch I knew that for white tie but I always assumed black tie meant dress watch. Hey you learn something new every day.

As far as the personality comment goes I totally agree Doc, you do a balancing act IMHO by trying to stamp your personality on a watch but I think it is worth it? Frankly this may sound a teency bit harsh but I can think of nothing dafter to do watch wise than buy a watch that you don't feel is special enough, I know of people with Rolex datejusts in the drawer 90% of the time because they essentially got dismayed by the fact everyone had their watch once they started looking and it no longer felt 'special' enough for them... That said I do think the Datejust is a phenomenal -cue iron bru- watch that if you already have say a couple of other pieces its versatility can really help in a collection? That said I feel it is too ubiquitous to be recommended as a one and only? Now as far as ending up fugly goes yep and yep roger that, it's kind of why I started this thread I hoped that some suggestions that are a little off the beaten track could come up for non-watch guys so that they could get something with a little more personality but dodge that bullet!

Incidentally I do have a few watches however I would stick by the idea of a SD/Sub/GMT2 for a one off watch that will look really good in at least most situations?
Finally what would be your ideas of classic watches for a budding WIS?


Regards Grant
 
I think the black-tie-no-watch thing is that time shouldn't matter when you are in a tux.

But then again, I might've just read that on some emailed list of tidbits.
 
I think the black-tie-no-watch thing is that time shouldn't matter when you are in a tux.

But then again, I might've just read that on some emailed list of tidbits.

Hey it's better than anything I'd of come up with! When not in a Tux though what would you pick as classic watches?

Regards Grant
 
Well....Mr. Bond and Cary Grant wore watches in tux's... Here is a true classic style watch. No lume, croc. strap,not waterproof. Classic style all the way...
$010.jpg
 
Little big feather that's a really really great watch, I love the Guilloché on the dial. It's watches like that that set off my AD...
Out of curiosity what was the patek you looked at?


Regards Grant
 
View attachment 263528

Seldom black tie, but for very formal agreed on a thin watch with a strap rather than a bracelet.

Most days I get by with a GMT ..
View attachment 263525


Cripes we have very similar taste in watches, my father has a PAM127 which I'm forever trying to annex despite my pathetic little wrist... Though that 112? is really great infact it could be the perfect training exercise for me...
One of my dream Rolexes is this the 6542 ***** Galore! http://gmtmasterhistory.com/gmt-master_ref_6542.html it is quite simply the way to behave!
I'd say that the pre update GMT with bezel options is more to my taste than the GMT-C ohh well it'll save my pennies!!!!

Regards Grant
 
I wear a watch for every occasion. Black tie, white tie, green tie, nudist colony. :001_tt2:

From what i've seen in the thread I wouldn't put it past you to have a dedicated nudist colony watch!
If I pressed you for your favorite out the whole lot what would it be?

Regards Grant
 
$002.jpgIf I need a thin dress watch I have this Yellow gold .
$006.jpgOr this solid Sterling silver.
I know, I know....I'm a WIS!! (Watch Idiot Savant)...I use to bite my nails...:001_unsur
 
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Aquanaut, Nautilus and Calatrava 18kt.Rose and White gold.

Ok that's a comprehensive hearing for the brand, FWIW I too was sadly underwhelmed by an aquanaut I tried on about a year ago. I had no real 'connection' with it I felt if I bought it I would be buying the name and nothing else it didn't 'speak' to me for want of a better word! However the 5127 I tried really did feel special enough but alas shockingly expensive!

Regards Grant
 
Exactly!! The aquanaut is name only...The Calatrava is just not worth that much$$$$It cost $1,500.00 tops, to make. The Nautilus about $300.00...Same as Rolex Sub.
But they just didn't 'speak' enough......When I saw the Martin Braun...It was I see you...You see me....SOLD!!Not even 30 sec. hesitation...I'm a sick puppy..:scared:
Patek makes over 20,000 watches a year...That's a factory made watch, in my book.
 
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Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
Wow ok this is what happens when a poster who's a lot better than me tackles a subject, I had absolutely no idea that black tie meant no watch I knew that for white tie but I always assumed black tie meant dress watch. Hey you learn something new every day.

Incidentally I do have a few watches however I would stick by the idea of a SD/Sub/GMT2 for a one off watch that will look really good in at least most situations?
Finally what would be your ideas of classic watches for a budding WIS?

Don't worry about it ... I've probably worn a watch with a tux in my past too. :001_unsur

But hey, if I were looking for a good "dress" watch I'd think of something like this ...

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... but with a leather strap.

Or, for the budget-conscious, maybe this ...

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... or maybe (again with a leather band) ...

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For an "oddly appropriate, neither fish nor fowl" watch that could be a 'third watch' when you want dressier than casual but more casual than dressy ...

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Seiko is nice....But, I'm a WIS and a snob! First Seiko I saw was $9.00 the most expensive was $19.00....I just can't get that $10. watch out of my head!!
 
Grand Seiko :drool:
Credor is another Seiko brand that produces fantastic dress watches I've always really liked the look of really simple and classy anyone have one? They don't seem to get much attention but I personally think this one in particular is stunning although I could do without the power reserve but that's just me!

$credor.jpg

Regards Grant
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
Seiko is nice....But, I'm a WIS and a snob! First Seiko I saw was $9.00 the most expensive was $19.00....I just can't get that $10. watch out of my head!!

There's a certain breed of WIS who obsess over JDM Seiko and the like ... they take a certain pride in owning a Grand Seiko that is made with an in-house movement, and is every bit as good (or better) than Swiss watches that cost thousands more ... kind of like knowing the secret password and being able to "fly under the radar" and own a watch that only the guys "in the know" will appreciate and everybody else (ie the Swiss-WIS nuts and the people who buy Fossil) will misunderstand as "just like that $10 watch I bought when I was 12."
 
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