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The English Aristocrat Junior No.48. A Forgotten Masterpiece

Alum Ladd

Could be most likely nutjob stuff
I was very fortunate to pick up an English Aristocrat Junior recently. I had been on the hunt for one for a while.
As often happens, fortune favours those who take a close look at bay photos. I saw a travel set with an Aristocrat Junior as part of the kit. The seller stated that this was very rare, and that it was a 1948 set. The components are all matching, and there is what appears to be a Gillette travel brush and a matching empty chrome tube for soap. The set is by Gresham.

What interested me was the razor. It appeared to have a Gen 1 TTO head, with no end caps. Achim's site as always was invaluable and I quickly identified it as the razor from a 1948 No.48 set. This normally came in a blue bakelite case with two blade banks.

So I bought the set, for an excellent price. While I was awaiting delivery, some googling on it brought up some interesting snippets. It was the first English Aristocrat Junior ever produced bearing that name, and it was only made for a short period. Also it seemed to be held in awe, evidenced from a few tantilising posts from forums. So I was looking forward to getting it.
IMG_20240121_202409804.jpg

If there was a ever a razor that is worthy of a trip to Chris at BRG it's this baby. Actually the plating, apart from the lower and mid handle is in good shape. Mechanically it is flawless, smooth as silk. It has the Super Speed TTO action. It's nicely weighty at 60gms and is beautifully balanced.
IMG_20240121_202617150.jpg

The head appears to be a Generation 1 TTO, as seen in the pre-war OC models, substituted with a solid bar guard. No end caps.
IMG_20240121_202433534.jpg
The blade bar is fully enclosed by the silo doors. The bar is obviously un-notched. The base plate is a single piece casting which seems to give the blade a wonderful platform and rigidity.
IMG_20240121_202651501.jpg

The interior is very clean. This was obviously a very well used and very well maintained razor. Experience with it would show me why.
IMG_20240121_202518686.jpg

The base plate bottom, clearly showing the 430 030 patent number. It's in good shape.
IMG_20240121_202057307.jpg

What I found particulary stunning was it's blade gap. It is immense.

Here is from left to right, the No.48, a 1953 English Rocket HD and a 1956 US Red Tip. The gap is evident.

Here is the magnificent Mrs Ladd modelling said razors, wearing a rather fetching cinnamon number. By the way, Mrs Ladd is available for razor modelling at excellent rates. Also available for weddings, bat mitzvahs' and reunions.

So, on to the shave.

Razor: English Gillette No.48 Aristocrat Junior
Blade: Gillette Wilkinson Sword Indian (2) A predictable and well behaved test blade.
Brush: English 'New Forest' Badger
Soap: Tabac
AS Balm: Nivea Replenishing

IMG_20240121_203621709.jpg

For the first couple of WTG left cheek passes, the No.48 felt like a weighty and wonderfully balanced Super Speed. It was beautifully smooth so I was unconsciously adopting the classic SS carefree whip around the face method. Unwise. As I continued the pass I became aware of what seemed significant blade feel. This is a highly efficient razor, bordering on aggression. In fact as early as the first WTG pass I became wary. Or shall we say respectful. I caught my left nostril on the tab during the upper lip strokes. I never do that. The razor was making me nervous. A magnificent efficient first pass.

The XTG pass began to tell me a few things. I had never encountered such an efficient and almost aggressive Gillette SB razor. It shaved very much like a 195 at setting 8, maybe even a touch more except smoother. However, it was a joy to handle and use, rewarding me with a wonderfully efficient second pass result. Steep and it will bite, so I used a somewhat shallow angle. A classic DE89 30 degrees seemed to tame it for a first time user. I could have finished there and then. So close to a SSF result.

I was curious to see how it would behave on a final ATG pass. The answer was magnificently. A fantastic final clean up pass leaving a wonderfully deep-shaven neck, jaw and cheek result. My moustache area was icy smooth also, although I was awarded a couple of short duration weepers. She had not probably shaved for a few decades and quite naturally wanted a faint whiff of blood from her new owner. A very small price to pay for an amazing, efficient and superbly smooth shave. I had the impression of being shaved 'deep'. Hard to describe. I think that's known as an agressive shave.

My first chance encounter with the best of breed I suspect, the stunning Aristocrat Junior No.48. Deeply happy I pulled the trigger on this one.

If you see one, get it.
 

Hannah's Dad

I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
A was very fortunate to pick up an English Aristocrat Junior recently. I had been on the hunt for one for a while.
As often happens, fortune favours those who take a close look at bay photos. I saw a travel set with an Aristocrat Junior as part of the kit. The seller stated that this was very rare, and that it was a 1948 set. The components are all matching, and there is what appears to be a Gillette travel brush and a matching empty chrome tube for soap. The set is by Gresham.

What interested me was the razor. It appeared to have a Gen 1 TTO head, with no end caps. Achim's site as always was invaluable and I quickly identified it as the razor from a 1948 No.48 set. This normally came in a blue bakelite case with two blade banks.

So I bought the set, for an excellent price. While I was awaiting delivery, some googling on it brought up some interesting snippets. It was the first English Aristocrat Junior ever produced bearing that name, and it was only made for a short period. Also it seemed to be held in awe, evidenced from a few tantilising posts from forums. So I was looking forward to getting it.
View attachment 1783887
If there was a ever a razor that is worthy of a trip to Chris at BRG it's this baby. Actually the plating, apart from the lower and mid handle is in good shape. Mechanically it is flawless, smooth as silk. It has the Super Speed TTO action. It's nicely weighty at 60gms and is beautifully balanced.
View attachment 1783890
The head appears to be a Generation 1 TTO, as seen in the pre-war OC models, substituted with a solid bar guard. No end caps.
View attachment 1783893 The blade bar is fully enclosed by the silo doors. The bar is obviously un-notched. The base plate is a single piece casting which seems to give the blade a wonderful platform and rigidity.
View attachment 1783899
The interior is very clean. This was obviously a very well used and very well maintained razor. Experience with it would show me why.
View attachment 1783902
The base plate bottom, clearly showing the 430 030 patent number. It's in good shape.
View attachment 1783908
What I found particulary stunning was it's blade gap. It is immense.

Here is from left to right, the No.48, a 1953 English Rocket HD and a 1956 US Red Tip. The gap is evident.

Here is the magnificent Mrs Ladd modelling said razors, wearing a rather fetching cinnamon number. By the way, Mrs Ladd is available for razor modelling at excellent rates. Also available for weddings, bat mitzvahs' and reunions.

So, on to the shave.

Razor: English Gillette No.48 Aristocrat Junior
Blade: Gillette Wilkinson Sword Indian (2) A predictable and well behaved test blade.
Brush: English 'New Forest' Badger
Soap: Tabac
AS Balm: Nivea Replenishing

View attachment 1783913
For the first couple of WTG left cheek passes, the No.48 felt like a weighty and wonderfully balanced Super Speed. It was beautifully smooth so I was unconsciously adopting the classic SS carefree whip around the face method. Unwise. As I continued the pass I became aware of what seemed significant blade feel. This is a highly efficient razor, bordering on aggression. In fact as early as the first WTG pass I became wary. Or shall we say respectful. I caught my left nostril on the tab during the upper lip strokes. I never do that. The razor was making me nervous. A magnificent efficient first pass.

The XTG pass began to tell me a few things. I had never encountered such an efficient and almost aggressive Gillette SB razor. It shaved very much like a 195 at setting 8, maybe even a touch more except smoother. However, it was a joy to handle and use, rewarding me with a wonderfully efficient second pass result. Steep and it will bite, so I used a somewhat shallow angle. A classic DE89 30 degrees seemed to tame it for a first time user. I could have finished there and then. So close to a SSF result.

I was curious to see how it would behave on a final ATG pass. The answer was magnificently. A fantastic final clean up pass leaving a wonderfully deep-shaven neck, jaw and cheek result. My moustache area was icy smooth also, although I was awarded a couple of short duration weepers. She had not probably shaved for a few decades and quite naturally wanted a faint whiff of blood from her new owner. A very small price to pay for an amazing, efficient and superbly smooth shave. I had the impression of being shaved 'deep'. Hard to describe. I think that's known as an agressive shave.

My first chance encounter with the best of breed I suspect, the stunning Aristocrat Junior No.48. Deeply happy I pulled the trigger on this one.

If you see one, get it.
She’s a beauty!! (And the razor is cool too);)
 
I was very fortunate to pick up an English Aristocrat Junior recently. I had been on the hunt for one for a while.
As often happens, fortune favours those who take a close look at bay photos. I saw a travel set with an Aristocrat Junior as part of the kit. The seller stated that this was very rare, and that it was a 1948 set. The components are all matching, and there is what appears to be a Gillette travel brush and a matching empty chrome tube for soap. The set is by Gresham.

What interested me was the razor. It appeared to have a Gen 1 TTO head, with no end caps. Achim's site as always was invaluable and I quickly identified it as the razor from a 1948 No.48 set. This normally came in a blue bakelite case with two blade banks.

So I bought the set, for an excellent price. While I was awaiting delivery, some googling on it brought up some interesting snippets. It was the first English Aristocrat Junior ever produced bearing that name, and it was only made for a short period. Also it seemed to be held in awe, evidenced from a few tantilising posts from forums. So I was looking forward to getting it.
View attachment 1783887
If there was a ever a razor that is worthy of a trip to Chris at BRG it's this baby. Actually the plating, apart from the lower and mid handle is in good shape. Mechanically it is flawless, smooth as silk. It has the Super Speed TTO action. It's nicely weighty at 60gms and is beautifully balanced.
View attachment 1783890
The head appears to be a Generation 1 TTO, as seen in the pre-war OC models, substituted with a solid bar guard. No end caps.
View attachment 1783893 The blade bar is fully enclosed by the silo doors. The bar is obviously un-notched. The base plate is a single piece casting which seems to give the blade a wonderful platform and rigidity.
View attachment 1783899
The interior is very clean. This was obviously a very well used and very well maintained razor. Experience with it would show me why.
View attachment 1783902
The base plate bottom, clearly showing the 430 030 patent number. It's in good shape.
View attachment 1783908
What I found particulary stunning was it's blade gap. It is immense.

Here is from left to right, the No.48, a 1953 English Rocket HD and a 1956 US Red Tip. The gap is evident.

Here is the magnificent Mrs Ladd modelling said razors, wearing a rather fetching cinnamon number. By the way, Mrs Ladd is available for razor modelling at excellent rates. Also available for weddings, bat mitzvahs' and reunions.

So, on to the shave.

Razor: English Gillette No.48 Aristocrat Junior
Blade: Gillette Wilkinson Sword Indian (2) A predictable and well behaved test blade.
Brush: English 'New Forest' Badger
Soap: Tabac
AS Balm: Nivea Replenishing

View attachment 1783913
For the first couple of WTG left cheek passes, the No.48 felt like a weighty and wonderfully balanced Super Speed. It was beautifully smooth so I was unconsciously adopting the classic SS carefree whip around the face method. Unwise. As I continued the pass I became aware of what seemed significant blade feel. This is a highly efficient razor, bordering on aggression. In fact as early as the first WTG pass I became wary. Or shall we say respectful. I caught my left nostril on the tab during the upper lip strokes. I never do that. The razor was making me nervous. A magnificent efficient first pass.

The XTG pass began to tell me a few things. I had never encountered such an efficient and almost aggressive Gillette SB razor. It shaved very much like a 195 at setting 8, maybe even a touch more except smoother. However, it was a joy to handle and use, rewarding me with a wonderfully efficient second pass result. Steep and it will bite, so I used a somewhat shallow angle. A classic DE89 30 degrees seemed to tame it for a first time user. I could have finished there and then. So close to a SSF result.

I was curious to see how it would behave on a final ATG pass. The answer was magnificently. A fantastic final clean up pass leaving a wonderfully deep-shaven neck, jaw and cheek result. My moustache area was icy smooth also, although I was awarded a couple of short duration weepers. She had not probably shaved for a few decades and quite naturally wanted a faint whiff of blood from her new owner. A very small price to pay for an amazing, efficient and superbly smooth shave. I had the impression of being shaved 'deep'. Hard to describe. I think that's known as an agressive shave.

My first chance encounter with the best of breed I suspect, the stunning Aristocrat Junior No.48. Deeply happy I pulled the trigger on this one.

If you see one, get it.
Beautiful. Hope to run into one of these some day. Do enjoy!
 

Lockback

Dull yet interesting
"She had not probably shaved for a few decades and quite naturally wanted a faint whiff of blood from her new owner." :laugh:
That's simply outstanding! What a great review. I'm not that familiar with the English Aristocrat so thanks for educating me on yet another classic razor. 🍻
 

Alum Ladd

Could be most likely nutjob stuff
I had another shave with the No.48 Junior tonight.

Before that, I pulled out a 195 to do a blade gap eyeballing comparison. I set it to 9 and Mrs Ladd again kindly agreed to model
IMG_20240123_213313396.jpg


If anything the No.48 is fractionally wider. You notice it in person.

All I can guess is that Gen 1 OC head that it appears to be based on, left a very significant gap when Gillette England replaced the OC with the solid bar assembly.

So effectively you have a very toothy wolf in 40's Super Speed wooly sheep clothing. Apart from the different head design which is a giveaway, the untrained eye would assume it is a slightly beefy SS. It's not. I'm thinking it's the most efficient and aggressive SB Gillette non adjustable ever made. Maybe it was too much, and the head was re-designed less than a year later to tame it a bit?

In any event, I got a superb shave with a second use Nacet I had to hand. The head angle is a little different to say a 53 Rocket, and I'm still playing around with it, but it's a one pass razor when you get the hang of it, and that shave will be very, very close to a BBS. Hugely efficient, not too forgiving and I'm getting a lot of blade feel from it. I think it has some positive blade exposure.

In the event as usual I obsessively did my ritual 3 pass, and was awarded a glacial finish. You just got to treat her with respect. It's actually quite an exciting raazor to use. Just not a daily shavers tool, although for gents with a very heavy or coarse thick growth it would, and it would be their perfect SB vintage I guess. Great fun and quite unique!

A superb score, I'm so pleased with it.
 
Nice 👍
Those 48-49 TTOs are certainly last of the 'barber shop shave' Gillettes as I call them.

Loads of blade feel and angle to play with!
Have to agree with you as I just wrapped up another great shave with the English AJ. Had to switch to a sharper blade, the Dorco Prime just didn't seem to work right in this razor, so switched to a KAI. Super close shave, nice noticeable alum block response, not sure if this could be my everyday shaver though. I'll see how well my face recovers today. Seemed more aggressive than any of my other Rockets. Maybe more than my Red Tip even. I'm aware that this model is a little different than the OP's but the performance may be very close in comparison. Not sure why they called the Juniors either.
 
the No.48 actually weighs 65 grams. I actually weighed my example. This is 5 grams more than sources I have seen.
Out of interest, I have two of these and mine both weigh... 63g 😵‍💫
IMG_20240320_174100238_BURST000_COVER.jpg

Weirdly the handles on mine are also ever so slightly different. Hard to see from the photo but the knurled "collar" - above the knob - is shorter on the one on the right, with a subsequently larger "gap" between the collar and main handle. Also, it feels to me like the knurling on the one on the right is ever so slightly coarser. Odd for a razor with such a short production run.
 
Great razor. When I first got into wet shaving I found one in a little antique store for 5.00. I was finding so many razors that I dismissed how good of a shaver it was. I was on a quest to try as many vintage razors as possible and sadly sold it as I thought something better was on the horizon. That razor and an American aristocrat were two of the best razors bar none I have ever had. I found some similar razors that I have kept but the Brits RFB are hard to beat. Lesson learned, I hang on to what works. Strange as it sounds a vintage Schick adjustable is about as close as it gets to blade gap on the Aristocrat for me.
 

Alum Ladd

Could be most likely nutjob stuff
Keeping your descriptions in mind, @Alum Ladd , I had the opportunity to acquire a pretty fresh-looking Australian #15 2nd gen crat.


I feel like I have had a recent increase in my abilities and am now seeking more aggressive razors. This will do nicely, I think.
Hi Theodore!

I've been digging around a bit and it appears the No. 48 AJ shares the same head as the Aristocrat No. 21
proxy.php


Compared to the Aristocrat Junior No. 48
IMG_20240121_202617150.jpg
IMG_20240205_204507979.jpg

From Achim's site
proxy.php
IMG_20240121_202518686.jpg

IMG_20240121_202651501.jpg


From your pics and description it looks like the Australian No. 15 is the third razor to use this head! Great stuff.

I would be interested if you could check the gap also. This trio seem the most extreme in aggression and efficiency. They are wildcats. Be mindful and tuned in when using it.

The slightly later 40's Aristos and Aristo Jnrs are also very efficient and aggressive by SB Gillette razor model standards so they are no slouches either.

Please tell us how it shaves!
 
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Hi Theodore!

I've been digging around a bit and it appears the No. 48 AJ shares the same head as the Aristocrat No. 21
proxy.php


Compared to the Aristocrat Junior No. 48
View attachment 1816677View attachment 1816678
From Achim's site
proxy.php
View attachment 1816679
View attachment 1816680

From your pics and description it looks like the Australian No. 15 is the third razor to use this head! Great stuff.

I would be interested if you could check the gap also. This trio seem the most extreme in aggression and efficiency. They are wildcats. Be mindful and tuned in when using it.

The slightly later 40's Aristos and Aristo Jnrs are also very efficient and aggressive by SB Gillette razor model standards so they are no slouches either.

Please tell us how it shaves!

Thank you for looking into this! Your findings line up with what I've read too, so I feel like I'm on firm ground now :)

1711162506836.jpeg


A photo from the seller - should arrive next week. I will compare the gap and the shave with my 2nd gen Jr and report back.

Having the benefit of your reports, I'm hoping I won't be caught out too much unawares by the jump in aggression!

Is there a blade you particularly recommend for these?
 

Alum Ladd

Could be most likely nutjob stuff
Is there a blade you particularly recommend for these?
I would go with a medium sharp, forgiving and smooth blade with this fella.

Unsure where you are, what blade stock you have on hand or your local market but I would say

Gillette Platinum
Astra SP
Indian GWS (First use only with this razor. Fresh blade)
Wizamet Super Iridium
Personna Platinum Chrome (Ideally the discontinued classic Israelis if you have them)

I think you get the idea. It's a somewhat unforgiving head at first, and you need to know your facial angles well. Take it somewhat shallow first times out. Be conservative till you get the hang of it. The results are superb.

Hydrate face especially well pre-shave and use a very slick soap that you trust. It won't necessarily protect you but psychologically it helps. Like those who sat on their steel helmets in a chopper in Vietnam to save their wedding jewels from nasty jagged splinters :001_smile

Obviously the handle size, weight and general difference in design dynamics may make yours shave differently. The 48 is a little lighter at 65gms with basically a beefed up Super Speed handle. Experiment a bit.
 
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Perfect - I just happen to have about 700 dark blue plats on hand (edit - and an entire tuck of those Personnas).

I appreciate the additional guidance! I think this is going to go great.

I just hope it's in sufficient mechanical nick to use without needing a tuneup first. The doors look well aligned from here, at least.
 
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Sad to say the new crat wants a tune before use. One door does not align with its bar, and I don't think this razor needs the boost in aggression this misalignment would offer.

The plating is almost perfect except for some rust stains in the head (unload your razors before storage, people!)

The comparative mechanical delicacy of the pre-endcap Gillette TTO designs is quite apparent, unfortunately. I am not sure what mix of bravado and naivety led Gillette to offer lifetime warranties on the earliest TTO crats!

Still, I was lucky to also recently pick up a very minty SC which needed nothing but a scrub. That will keep me busy until the crat is in tune. Very nice, efficient, no-nonsense razor, the SC. Real shallow-angle design.
 
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