The Double Edge Shaving Apocalypse of 1970

[BigSpender]

Why did so many people abandon their double edge razors so quickly beginning in 1970-71?

I know this occurred in the U.S. because I was there. Gillette had a near monopoly on razors and blades in the U.S. up until then. I never even finished my blue steel pack of Gillette blades before stowing away my Slim forever in 1970. Before long, it was increasingly difficult to find a good selection of double edge blades in stores; now it is almost impossible.

I would be surprised if more than one in one thousand Americans shave with a double edge razor today. Did the double edge shaving apocalypse happen as quickly and thoroughly in other countries? Why?

Why, exactly, did men stop using Gillette DE razors and blades so quickly and thoroughly in the early 1970s?

 

[ctr]

Because it was safer, easier, less time, and more comfortable. The Trac II was quite an item when it came out. I followed with Atra when it was released. The carts lasted longer than the blades too. Don't remember them being that expensive either.

 

[koreysmith]

I really don't have any reliable answers for you, but my own experience. My birth year is 1976, and it wasn't until 2014 or 2015 that I picked up an Edwin Jagger DE-89. I have since collected quite a few razors, including some Vintage Gillettes. Like you, I don't understand why retail stores don't cater to this group of shavers. I mean, I understand that local retailers are in it for the money and would rather push the expensive cartridge razors. Also, DE shaving takes some practice and I'm sure there are a number of people who give it up due to the learning curve. I definitely will stick with DE shaving and just get my supplies online. One less trip to the store. Also, I find it really relaxing, especially with the different scented soaps that are out there.

Sent from my SM-A516U using Tapatalk

 

[luvmysuper]

Because it was safer, easier, less time, and more comfortable. The Trac II was quite an item when it came out. I followed with Atra when it was released. The carts lasted longer than the blades too. Don't remember them being that expensive either.

I think this is basically it.
Carts were initially cheap and lasted. Till they became entrenched.
Like when ATM cards came out, you got paid to use them because you weren't taking up a tellers time.
Then they stopped paying you to use them.
Then they started charging you to use them.

 

[Mike M]

I think this is basically it.
Carts were initially cheap and lasted. Till they became entrenched.
Like when ATM cards came out, you got paid to use them because you weren't taking up a tellers time.
Then they stopped paying you to use them.
Then they started charging you to use them.

Gillette found that by producing a proprietary razor with proprietary heads people were bound to buy the heads from them so no more blade competition. If they subsidised the initial razor purchase it captured more people. Finally they found that if you have a regular upgrade cycle where you convince people they need the latest and greatest version of their product they could convince them to spend more on carts thus more profits.

 

[Quaznoid]

By my recollection, the Wilkinson Bonded was the first cart in the USA. I started out w a SuperSpeed in 1973 but switched over to the Wilky that same year. Seemed cool to my 15 year old brain.

 

[preidy]

Agree the cart war's did it. I learned on my dad's Schick Injector but when all the hype on the Trac-II came out, I switched and used for most of my adult life. Found this NOS still in the retail sleeve several years ago (amazing). I jumped on it for sentinmental reasons. Still gives a dam good shave for a plastic razor.

 

[Owen Bawn]

The whole thing started in reaction to Wilkinson Sword putting tremendous pressure on Gillette's profits in the double edge blade industry by the mid 60s, so Gillette needed a new patentable and proprietary product that would allow them to dominate the market again. The assertion that the Trac II was more efficient than a double edge blade did have some scientific evidence behind it, from the little I've read. It was also easier to handle, and therefore safer. Gillette mailed millions of free Trac II razors out across America in 1972 in cardboard tubes. Then they sold the carts at a very slim margin until they had essentially killed the double edge market. Then, as pointed out above, the price went up. This is only my opinion, but I think that the Trac II was as efficient as a multiblade razor could get, and that all of the changes made to Gillette products since the Trac II have been to ensure they maintain that all important proprietary control.

I still use a Trac II as my travel razor. Prior to the pandemic I travelled a lot, and I always got/get great shaves with it.

 

[TexOkie Shaver]

The whole thing started in reaction to Wilkinson Sword putting tremendous pressure on Gillette's profits in the double edge blade industry by the mid 60s, so Gillette needed a new patentable and proprietary product that would allow them to dominate the market again. The assertion that the Trac II was more efficient than a double edge blade did have some scientific evidence behind it, from the little I've read. It was also easier to handle, and therefore safer. Gillette mailed millions of free Trac II razors out across America in 1972 in cardboard tubes. Then they sold the carts at a very slim margin until they had essentially killed the double edge market. Then, as pointed out above, the price went up. This is only my opinion, but I think that the Trac II was as efficient as a multiblade razor could get, and that all of the changes made to Gillette products since the Trac II have been to ensure they maintain that all important proprietary control.

I believe that @Owen Bawn has nailed it as the root cause.

But the thing that caused us to switch was the advertising that was driven by the root cause. The root cause is the reason and the advertising was the implement that caused us to switch.

Once carts were entrenched, Gillette removed DE blades from the stores forcing the DE shavers that remained to follow suit.

That was why I changed. It had become increasingly more difficult to find DE blades. Amazon and Internet sales didn’t exist at that time.

 

[Owen Bawn]

I believe that @Owen Bawn has nailed it as the root cause. But the thing that caused s to switch was the advertising that was driven by the root cause. The root cause is the reason and the advertising was the implement that caused us to switch. Once entrenched, Gillette removed DE blades from the stores forcing the DE shavers that remained to follow suite. That was why I changed. It had become increasingly more difficult to find DE blades. Amazon and Internet sales didn’t exist at that time.

Very true about double edge blades largely disappearing. I was using a Trac II through the 1990s and into this century but I also came upon a black handle Super Speed at a huge flea market around 1998 and the guy sold me 100 DE blades for less than $10. Until I discovered all the Russians on ebay the only way I could replenish my blade stock was at flea markets, where I could always find them by the hundred.

 

[TexOkie Shaver]

Very true about double edge blades largely disappearing. I was using a Trac II through the 1990s and into this century but I also came upon a black handle Super Speed at a huge flea market around 1998 and the guy sold me 100 DE blades for less than $10. Until I discovered all the Russians on ebay the only way I could replenish my blade stock was at flea markets, where I could always find them by the hundred.

I’ve never been much on flea markets. I guess they were the precursor to eBay.

 

[Owen Bawn]

I’ve never been much on flea markets. I guess they were the precursor to eBay.

I was following a woman around, truth be told.

 

[rreynoso]

Same as with DVD´s vs VHS, I think it was profit, for Gillette and others. Here in my country I remember the DE´s started to disappear in the 80s and the main seller was the local version of the "Good News" razor, called "Prestobarba". I remember that it was common on many households to buy a bag of 15 - 20 disposable razors for all the family members who shaved and being used and discarded at leisure. And of course we had the Atra, but that was more common to be purchased as a Father´s Day gift. Even these days, Gillette puts their line at discount during that season.

Recently I bought some Gillette SuperThins NOS from the 80s and inside the blade package I found an advertisement to the user to move to the Atra Plus.



Cheers

 

[sternej]

The Trac Ii might be the most successful consumer product released next to compact discs. Most guys into DE razors didn't know how to use them. When I started shaving my dad tossed me a Gillette super speed and a roll of toilet paper. The Trac II came out. Showed you it's angle. And eliminated the need for multiple passes

 

[BigJ]

Because it was safer, easier, less time, and more comfortable. The Trac II was quite an item when it came out. I followed with Atra when it was released. The carts lasted longer than the blades too. Don't remember them being that expensive either.

+3! Also more ‘modern.’ (And more $ for Gillette.) Great marketing won the day!!

 

[Benzadmiral]

I was using a Norelco electric rotary shaver in '70-'71, so I don't recall the switchover. I began shaving in 1968 or so, and did not try a cart razor until the late '70s, when I wanted a closer shave.

 

[tamahagane]

There are some vintage movies (late 70s, 80s) from the former eastern block where you can clearly see that Superspeed clones were most common. Obviously the apocalypse occurred later for some parts of the world. Then again, some countries still cannot afford DE blades and might pick DEs before switching to carts.

 

[BigSpender]

The whole thing started in reaction to Wilkinson Sword putting tremendous pressure on Gillette's profits in the double edge blade industry by the mid 60s, so Gillette needed a new patentable and proprietary product that would allow them to dominate the market again. The assertion that the Trac II was more efficient than a double edge blade did have some scientific evidence behind it, from the little I've read. It was also easier to handle, and therefore safer. Gillette mailed millions of free Trac II razors out across America in 1972 in cardboard tubes. Then they sold the carts at a very slim margin until they had essentially killed the double edge market. Then, as pointed out above, the price went up. This is only my opinion, but I think that the Trac II was as efficient as a multiblade razor could get, and that all of the changes made to Gillette products since the Trac II have been to ensure they maintain that all important proprietary control.

I still use a Trac II as my travel razor. Prior to the pandemic I travelled a lot, and I always got/get great shaves with it.

Not exactly.

I agree with Mr. Owen Bawn about Gillette's marketing of the Trac II: It was the first time Gillette actually used the "razor and blades" marketing strategy.

Wilkinson began selling a stainless steel double edge blade in 1962, but it was using a recent Gillette patent. Gillette countered by making its own stainless steel DE blade in the mid-60s, which I did not like. Whether it was the harsher stainless steel blades or an out alignment Slim from being dropped too many times, I do not know, but that Gillette razor and stainless blades was providing a bad shave. I suspect I was not the only one who, by the late 1960s, was fed up with Gillette and was ready for a change.

The first cartridge razor was the Wilkinson Bonded razor system. It was sold in the United States in 1970, before the Trac II. Bye bye, Gillette! It looked beautiful (perhaps the last truly stylish razor), it was amazingly easy to use, and I still think it produced an incredibly comfortable shave. The the blade easily lasted two or three weeks and never bit you. It probably could have gone longer, but why bother, as they were also inexpensive, far cheaper than buying Gillette DE blades. Wilkinson made very durable blades -- now wonder they went out of business.

The single blade was bonded to the plastic cartridge, so there was no blade vibration, unlike a DE blade. The result was more like an injector blade, a GEM single edge razor or a wedge blade, which Wilkinson made for generations. There is, of course, renewed interest in the single blade concept with some artisan razors, though I don't know whether it has been implemented as effectively or as inexpensively as the Wilkinson bonded blade, with one exception.

The Trac II twin blade, introduced in 1972, had its advantages, but, sadly, it spelled the end of the single, rigid bonded blade. Folks didn't know when they had a good thing. Then, one day, the Wilkinson cartridges disappeared from the shelves. I guess the Trac II was cheaper; it used less plastic and was not imported. The Trac II was OK; it didn't slice up your face, but it didn't shave close, either, which was obvious by 4 p.m. The blades were far less durable than Wilkinson's, so Gillette made more money.

With the Trac II the head was rigid, which I liked (and still like: I tried one again when I was abroad, but it still did not shave close enough). But in 1977 Gillette introduced Atra, a twin blade with pivoting head. Everyone switched to the next best thing, and eventually the Trac II disappeared from the U.S. market. The pivoting head, in my opinion, is the worst thing about cartridges: You cannot control the angle, so you cannot get the best possible shave on the curves of your face - you can only get a compromise shave. But it is idiot-proof, the crux of Gillette's marketing strategy, to this day. The real winner was Gillette, which had new patents, including a lock on the blade-handle system, so competitors could not make compatible products. The price went up and up, of course.

Oh well, at least the twin blades were sharp. Until they were not, which happened after Gillette introduced the triple blade cartridge, which were sharp until it introduced the quadruple blade cartridge, etc. The marketing folks at Gillette now proudly announced that daily facial exfoliation (which used to be called "razor burn") for guys was a wonderful thing, and they should be grateful! These octopus razors did not cut you up, like the bad old days, but they did scrape off the outer layer of your face's skin, which you found lining your bathroom sink every morning.

With the Trac II, Gillette began the con that more blades equaled closer shaves, which the Trac II did not actually provide, so people needed to buy their triple blade razor to get closer shaves, which still were not as close as a double edge razor, so....

Why did the double edge apocalypse occur in 1970? First, the industry needed cheap stainless steel blades, which were introduced in the 1960s; carbon steel blades would rust in cartridges, especially multi-blade ones. (The idea of multi-blade razors had been around at least since the 1930s.) Also, it needed a cheap, precision plastic molding system, which wasn't around in the 1950s. Oil was cheap in 1970, so plastic was cheap, too, cheaper than razor steel. And there were other reasons.

And most people, to this day, are adamant that they must buy a razor with more blades to get a close shave. However, the real problem is, of course, a) the cheaper razors use duller blades, and b) the cartridge geometry, which keeps the blades from getting too close to the skin.

Yes, the expensive octopus cartridges typically (but not always) do shave closer than their simpler, cheaper brethren. But a single blade in a cartridge can shave as close or closer, provided it is sharp and is aligned to make good contact with the skin. And such a razor with a single extremely sharp blade that provides very close, very comfortable shaves does exist. The blade is bonded rigidly in plastic, much like the Wilkinson. But most people stick up their nose at it.

Most Americans, after 50 years of conditioning, tremble in terror at the thought of actually touching a naked steel double edge blade, conjuring up images of red blood spurting uncontrollably from their fingers and head, or at least numerous small cuts to their face, like they have seen in countless movies portraying DE shaving. Get over it! That's what styptic pencils and tourniquets are for.

 

[THall]

I made the switch to DE about 12 years ago. I almost switched back to carts early on because my technique just wasn’t down and I got much better WTG shaves with carts. I only did WTG one pass shaves for work and would only go ATG for dates/special events to get BBS because I’d pay later (Carts).

Again, this changed with learning DE technique. Seeing how much more I was paying with carts caused me to stick it out with DE.

 

[ChipH1970]

I remember that it was common on many households to buy a bag of 15 - 20 disposable razors for all the family members who shaved and being used and discarded at leisure. And of course we had the Atra, but that was more common to be purchased as a Father´s Day gift.

I feel this post

I was born in ‘70 and only have the vaguest memory of my dad using some TTO safety razor. Once those cheap disposables were widely available he switched and that’s all he uses to this day. He’ll buy whatever is cheapest at BJ’s and uses whatever canned shave cream is cheapest in bulk when he needs more. My very first shave was with a BIC disposable from his stash. Then I bought myself an Atra from the corner grocery store and used that until the Mach 3 came along and completed their scheme to milk my money