Taking the straight razor plunge

[PintoPlain]

Ok, I've improved to the point where I don't get anymore nicks or cuts. However, the shave is nowhere near smooth anymore now. Maybe because I am putting less pressure? I still need to follow up with two passes with a DE but before didn't really need it on the cheeks now I do.

Burning post shave has diminished a lot and is now limited only to the left side of my neck which I shave with my non dominant left hand

Sounds like the blade needs a touch up. O would recommend the diamond balsa method once you get it rehoned.

I also don't bother doing a E-W or W-E on the neck. The results aren't worth the hassle to me.

If you keep using your non dominant hand you will get more adept at using it. It will eventually start feeling natural (from what I've read, I've always used both hands shaving since I was 13 or so).

 

[Phoenix997]

As far as I've been able to tell, using pressure, against the skin, with a straight, has bad effects on comfort and skin damage and no good effects at all. I'd look elsewhere: Is your blade still sharp? Are you using a low enough angle? Are you using effective skin stretches?

Skin strecthes I could definitely do more on the cheeks. The angle I’ve switched to is very low. Should I go for a wider one?
I’ve started doing shorter motions rather than one long across the neck/face as I would with a de. It seems to help reduce cuts

 

[Phoenix997]

After how many shaves should I hone it? I’m somewhere between 10-15 shaves. If I have to get it honed that often it would cost quite a bit

 

[PintoPlain]

After how many shaves should I hone it? I’m somewhere between 10-15 shaves. If I have to get it honed that often it would cost quite a bit

I regularly use diamond pasted balsa, so I tend to go 50+ shaves without touching up the blade. It is important to know that the diamond will maintain the blade, but will not make a dull blade sharp. There are a few threads on using diamond or CBN pasted balsa to maintain your edge.

The cost of refreshing the blade will depend on where in the world you are. It shouldn't be much for a refresh as the bevel should be set. You will probably find that as your technique improves, both stropping and shaving, your edges will last longer. Unfortunately, this is part of the learning curve.

 

[Phoenix997]

I regularly use diamond pasted balsa, so I tend to go 50+ shaves without touching up the blade. It is important to know that the diamond will maintain the blade, but will not make a dull blade sharp. There are a few threads on using diamond or CBN pasted balsa to maintain your edge.

The cost of refreshing the blade will depend on where in the world you are. It shouldn't be much for a refresh as the bevel should be set. You will probably find that as your technique improves, both stropping and shaving, your edges will last longer. Unfortunately, this is part of the learning curve.

interesting. I didn't know that about balsa. I'm London, getting it honed is about £40 so if I had to do on a monthly basis in a year it would cost me about double the price of the blade.

Admittedly I am quite bad at stropping. My strop has suffered significant cuts and grazes

 

[PintoPlain]

interesting. I didn't know that about balsa. I'm London, getting it honed is about £40 so if I had to do on a monthly basis in a year it would cost me about double the price of the blade.

Admittedly I am quite bad at stropping. My strop has suffered significant cuts and grazes

Stropping is something you need to learn. You're not the first to cut up a strop due to questionable technique and you certainly won't be the last.

I made my diamond balsa strops using acrylic blocks I bought from the UK. I bought them online, but can't remember where from. It was pre Brexit as I haven't bought anything from the UK since due to the spurious customs fees and additional taxes.

If you don't want to go down the stone route, it is possible to hone your razor using lapping film. Again, there are posts on the forum giving the instructions. Send me a PM if you need more information.

 

[Phoenix997]

Ok so last shave was pretty bad. I had 3 or 4 days of growth due to being busy with and girlfriend etc. (I hide my straight from her as she finds it too scary and gets worried).

Because of the growth I needed about 5 passes with the straight to clear and still it was not very smooth. Worst of all I cut myself four times, all on my left cheek, I'm assuming this is more my technique with my non dominant hand. One cut was pretty bad, left a long vertical line on my cheek so I took a break from shaving for the last 3 days and doused it with a lot of aftershave the past few days. It has now receded and thankfully doesn't look like it will leave a scar.

The edge definitely feels like it needs sharpening. This was a very discouraging shave and has put me off a bit but I will persevere. Likely I will buy some honing stones.

 

[Herrenberg]

Ok so last shave was pretty bad. I had 3 or 4 days of growth due to being busy with and girlfriend etc. (I hide my straight from her as she finds it too scary and gets worried).

Because of the growth I needed about 5 passes with the straight to clear and still it was not very smooth. Worst of all I cut myself four times, all on my left cheek, I'm assuming this is more my technique with my non dominant hand. One cut was pretty bad, left a long vertical line on my cheek so I took a break from shaving for the last 3 days and doused it with a lot of aftershave the past few days. It has now receded and thankfully doesn't look like it will leave a scar.

The edge definitely feels like it needs sharpening. This was a very discouraging shave and has put me off a bit but I will persevere. Likely I will buy some honing stones.

A good shave with a dull razor just doesn't happen.

FWIW, the amount of growth doesn't really matter much at all when shaving with an SR. Something else is wrong.

 

[Phoenix997]

A good shave with a dull razor just doesn't happen.

FWIW, the amount of growth doesn't really matter much at all when shaving with an SR. Something else is wrong.

I'm taking a break from using my straight until I can sort out the sharpness. I'm thinking of getting the stones and learning how to do it. It will be prohibitively expensive to send it off if it needs it on a monthly basis

 

[Phoenix997]

Second shave back with the DE. I miss my straight already. Going to have to figure out this edge situation soon so I can get back to it

 

[Herrenberg]

Second shave back with the DE. I miss my straight already. Going to have to figure out this edge situation soon so I can get back to it

I think we forgot to mention that shaving with a straight razor is addictive. Too late now.

 

[sanookd]

I'm taking a break from using my straight until I can sort out the sharpness. I'm thinking of getting the stones and learning how to do it. It will be prohibitively expensive to send it off if it needs it on a monthly basis

You might want to consider getting a second or even a third absolutely shave ready straight razor. That will give you the ability to rotate your blades so you can spread your usage out over a longer period of time before any one blade requires a rehone especially @ 40 quid a pop! Just a suggestion

 

[Phoenix997]

You might want to consider getting a second or even a third absolutely shave ready straight razor. That will give you the ability to rotate your blades so you can spread your usage out over a longer period of time before any one blade requires a rehone especially @ 40 quid a pop! Just a suggestion

Excellent idea. I’ve seen a couple of Dovo razors I fancy the look of

 

[sanookd]

Excellent idea. I’ve seen a couple of Dovo razors I fancy the look of

Have you considered Vintage instead of new? Have you ever perused Griffith Shaving Goods website? That will give you an idea of what is out there at various price points. Everything he sells is definitely shave ready. I have no vested interests if you make a purchase or not. It will just show you a snap shot of what the Vintage market is right now at various price points. You might find it cool shaving with a piece of history from your own country!

 

[Tomo]

Sharp is easy (and cheap). Have a read of this and you will be on your way. The Method style of honing has fallen by the wayside as the vocal supporters have left the forum. It might not be sexy but it will get you a VERY sharp edge. There’s no skill required. Just follow the instructions exactly, without deviation, and you will get scary sharp edges. Once you know what saving with a sharp edge is like you can go and get lost in the natural whetstone rabbit hole to dial in the last 5% of face feel. In the beginning sharper is better and you won’t get sharper than this.

Newbie Honing Compendium

I find myself often linking just a few threads rather than give a long winded explanation that takes me 15 minutes to type on my phone. So, here are my favorite threads to suggest that newbies read if they are interested in making their razors sharp. Lapping film, try it. Setting the Bevel...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Phoenix997]

Have you considered Vintage instead of new? Have you ever perused Griffith Shaving Goods website? That will give you an idea of what is out there at various price points. Everything he sells is definitely shave ready. I have no vested interests if you make a purchase or not. It will just show you a snap shot of what the Vintage market is right now at various price points. You might find it cool shaving with a piece of history from your own country!

Thanks I'll check it out. I do like the idea of something vintage that is older than I am

 

[Phoenix997]

Sharp is easy (and cheap). Have a read of this and you will be on your way. The Method style of honing has fallen by the wayside as the vocal supporters have left the forum. It might not be sexy but it will get you a VERY sharp edge. There’s no skill required. Just follow the instructions exactly, without deviation, and you will get scary sharp edges. Once you know what saving with a sharp edge is like you can go and get lost in the natural whetstone rabbit hole to dial in the last 5% of face feel. In the beginning sharper is better and you won’t get sharper than this.

Newbie Honing Compendium

I find myself often linking just a few threads rather than give a long winded explanation that takes me 15 minutes to type on my phone. So, here are my favorite threads to suggest that newbies read if they are interested in making their razors sharp. Lapping film, try it. Setting the Bevel...

www.badgerandblade.com

So no stones needed? I was just about to purchase one

 

[Tomo]

So no stones needed? I was just about to purchase one

No stones needed. Not at this stage. Just an acrylic block subbase and plain lapping film with no adhesive backing. The system has a number of advantages.

1. You don’t need any flattening equipment for the stones.
2. You get a full progression with small grit jumps.
3. It’s tried and tested with straight razors. Lots of information and instructions are available.
4. It’s cheap
5. It works
6. It’s easy. Pretty much anyone that tries it is able to do it.

It’s a good way to get started. The diamond pasted balsa is optional but it really amps up the sharpness. It also makes maintenance easier more convenient in the long run.

 

[PintoPlain]

I still use lapping film and pasted balsa. I would definitely recommend The Method to someone starting honing straights.

I don't particularly like the scary sharp edges I get with the method so use the razor until it's comfortable then maintain it at that level with diamond balsa.

As @Tomo said it's cheap and it works. Don't think, just do. Follow the instructions and you'll get a decent, shaveable edge.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

It depends on what you are honing and the condition. Yes, you can hone an eBay beater on film, but you will go through some film, especially when new to honing and using too much pressure, film does wear out, and in the long run much more expensive than stones, A King 1/6k is $20-25 and Shapton Pro 1k &5k are $100 for the pair on Amazon if bevel setting a beater. I buy film from Thor Lab.

From 5 or 6k you can easily jump to 1um/16k 3M film and finish on 1um with paper for a smoking edge. The paper polishes just the edge of the bevel.

Buy 12x3 glass tiles from a big box hardware, $4 here in California. Lap the glass flat easily with a sheet of 220 wet and dry. Glass is soft and laps easily and leaves a frosty satin finish that grips film better. Once the film is stuck on you can do anything you can with a stone.

If you are touching up 1um will restore a lightly damaged edge if not a few laps on a 5 or 6k will easily restore an edge.

For those with heavy beards 1um with paper is an ideal edge. Film will get you sharp easily, but long term it can be pricy and there are better edges, but a great way to keep shaving.

Bottom line, it is all about stropping, master stropping for long term maintenance and quality edges. It can take some time to master, get to a point where each lap is improving an edge. Strop before and after each shave.