Should things be rusting already?
- Thread starter TPeroda85
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- #2
Some blades rust just by looking at them, others seem to be much more tolerant of damp conditions. I have a Bismarck that developed "stains" after the first use, just from not drying off the blade in between passes. A little metal polish cleaned it right up though.
Best thing to do is to buy those silicone razor sleeves (see http://thesuperiorshave.com/index.p...emart_product_id=79&virtuemart_category_id=38 for example) to help wick away the moisture. Work great.
Best thing to do is to buy those silicone razor sleeves (see http://thesuperiorshave.com/index.p...emart_product_id=79&virtuemart_category_id=38 for example) to help wick away the moisture. Work great.
It only takes about 15 minutes to start staining. You need to dry your razor thoroughly before finishing up your aftershave and cleanup. Razor 1st!
Rust can develop after a single shave.
Are you "flossing" after shaving?
I keep my hands dry when I use my straights. I use a sponge to wipe the lather off. Very little water touches the blade. I will wipe the blade with alcohol then lightly coat it with food grade mineral oil (if I think it might not be used for a while). I store my straights in a Alembli case (which has silica gel in it) in a dry room. I've not had an issue with rust.
Are you "flossing" after shaving?
I keep my hands dry when I use my straights. I use a sponge to wipe the lather off. Very little water touches the blade. I will wipe the blade with alcohol then lightly coat it with food grade mineral oil (if I think it might not be used for a while). I store my straights in a Alembli case (which has silica gel in it) in a dry room. I've not had an issue with rust.
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- #6
Even when yo think it's dry, a tiny amount of water can hide near the pin. The best defence is to try and not get water that far up the tang so it stays dry.
Dovo razors seem to rust or stain if you look crosseyed at them. Keeping them in the silicone sleeves and a light wipe down with Balistol, seems to keep things under control
A lot depends on the environment it is kept in also. I keep mine in an antique cigar holder after drying off with toilet tissue, stropping on linen and leather. No problems with rust. Our bathroom is exceptionally well ventilated. Never store it in a case unless you have one like Turtle's.
Wait, Turtle you use straights? I had no idea!
Wait, Turtle you use straights? I had no idea!
Rust in that area means water got in there, it is almost impossible to get that area dry.
You really should not be getting the tang and/or scales wet.
You really should not be getting the tang and/or scales wet.
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- #11
You didn't wreck it. It would be very hard to clean without removing the scales though.
On a similar note, I left a steel (I thought stainless, but apparently not) caliper in my basement after working on my car a few weeks ago. Went down to grab it yesterday and the ENTIRE THING had turned into rust. It looked worse than the shipwreck recovery artifacts. I couldn't believe it. Damnedest thing I ever saw.
On a similar note, I left a steel (I thought stainless, but apparently not) caliper in my basement after working on my car a few weeks ago. Went down to grab it yesterday and the ENTIRE THING had turned into rust. It looked worse than the shipwreck recovery artifacts. I couldn't believe it. Damnedest thing I ever saw.
If you're talking about the rust around the pivot area then don't worry, it's not 'wrecked', it's just not pristine anymore (nothing that is made to be used stays pristine for very long).
Keeping water away will help to decrease rust formation. Best/easiest thing to do is to avoid rinsing the blade under the tap or in a sink of water. The moment you bring the blade back up to your face any droplets left on it will run down the blade and 'gather' behind the scales around the pivot - a place that is impossible to wipe dry...
Better to simply wipe lather off onto a hand towel or dry wash cloth as you shave. Then simply toss the towel into the laundry pile when you're finished. Clean blade, no water.
As for 'fixing' the rust that's there, you could 'dry' scrub it a bit with a soft toothbrush. It'll knock some of the rust off. A little metal polish on a rag will also help. But nothing short of taking it apart and doing a professional metal polishing will remove 100% of the rust and make it look new again.
I really wouldn't worry about it though. Friction against the scales when you open and close it will keep the rust fairly 'under control'. Not exposing it to any more water will keep it from expanding. And what's there will in no way affect it's function, it's performance, or the shave.
Keeping water away will help to decrease rust formation. Best/easiest thing to do is to avoid rinsing the blade under the tap or in a sink of water. The moment you bring the blade back up to your face any droplets left on it will run down the blade and 'gather' behind the scales around the pivot - a place that is impossible to wipe dry...
Better to simply wipe lather off onto a hand towel or dry wash cloth as you shave. Then simply toss the towel into the laundry pile when you're finished. Clean blade, no water.
As for 'fixing' the rust that's there, you could 'dry' scrub it a bit with a soft toothbrush. It'll knock some of the rust off. A little metal polish on a rag will also help. But nothing short of taking it apart and doing a professional metal polishing will remove 100% of the rust and make it look new again.
I really wouldn't worry about it though. Friction against the scales when you open and close it will keep the rust fairly 'under control'. Not exposing it to any more water will keep it from expanding. And what's there will in no way affect it's function, it's performance, or the shave.
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- #14
I put a drop of oil on the pivot point every now and then just to be sure.
Nope, no sweat, you can continue to use it as is.
The only time you really need to worry is if you ever see rust or corrosion along the the shaving edge (Not very likely to ever happen since water wipes off the blade easily (unlike between the scales and the tang where it gets trapped and can't be wiped off)). In that case, you shouldn't shave with it - and would need to send it somewhere to be cleaned and re-honed.
Steel and water do not play well together. Add the acidity in the hands of some people, and corrosion can develop rather rapidly.
You can try to sneak fine sandpaper between the scales and tang and clean up some of the rust.
To really get it all out you must unpin and repin it.
To really get it all out you must unpin and repin it.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
I never cared for the idea of oil, since if it gets on the tang you are trying to shave with a "greased pig" so to speak. But cleanshaven is on the right track. Guys that use mechanical cameras in the desert frequently use bicycle chain wax to lube the rack and pinions. Bicycle chain wax is a liquid that dries hard, a less slippery wax that penetrates, and I've been putting a little in the pivot just in case I'm not completely successful keeping water off it. Pedro's Ice Wax used to be recommended but I think any brand will do.
But the best bet is to keep water off the pivot area, dry thoroughly, and let the razor air out well.
Cheers, Steve
But the best bet is to keep water off the pivot area, dry thoroughly, and let the razor air out well.
Cheers, Steve
Store it vertically so any water has a chance to run away from the pin, spread out, and evaporate.
I've started keeping a straight in my bathroom, in one of the silicone sleeves mentioned above, standing tail up in the cup of a toothbrush holder. No problems so far.
If watery lather has run into the pin I'll rinse it out and run a thin cloth between the scales to dry as best I can, then blow into the pin area to remove the bulk of any water still trapped there.
I've started keeping a straight in my bathroom, in one of the silicone sleeves mentioned above, standing tail up in the cup of a toothbrush holder. No problems so far.
If watery lather has run into the pin I'll rinse it out and run a thin cloth between the scales to dry as best I can, then blow into the pin area to remove the bulk of any water still trapped there.
