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Schick Injector, Avoid Buying Ones Forced Open?

I've seen Schick Injectors while visiting antiques stores and, out of curiosity, have been reading up on them. I have been thinking of picking up a Type E or G but according to Schick Injector Razors, only the E1 and some E2 were allowed to be opened for cleaning. Later type E2-E5 and G had tabs or restraints that fixed the spring in place.

Looking on the 'Bay, it seems many of the later model Type E and G with tabs or restraints have been "forced" open; the spring wasn't supposed to be rotated but the user apparently decided otherwise.

Sometimes the scratch where the spring was pivoted is very faint but it's there:
s-l1600.jpg

I've read that forcing open these later models could damage the razor by weakening the spring to where it wouldn't hold the blade properly.

So, should I avoid these Type E and G that have been forced open and only look at buying ones that doesn't show any evidence of the spring being rotated? Or am I being overly cautious?
 
There are so many of these out there I would avoid one which has evidence of being forced open. And exercise caution where the razor has no blade, pretty good indicator somebody may have extracted one using a pliers.
 
From what I've heard, that scratch is from the factory when it was made!

Thanks, found the thread. Very informative! Schick injector ddisassembly question

There are so many of these out there I would avoid one which has evidence of being forced open. And exercise caution where the razor has no blade, pretty good indicator somebody may have extracted one using a pliers.

Great tip, I'll be on the lookout for missing blades and dummy blades. Thanks!

Any other tips on buying an injector are appreciated!
 
I’ve got a bunch of Schicks, from B to O (the latter is a clone). I recommend you patiently seek an early E2, with the swiveling spring, or an E1 which, based on my experience, is close to impossible to find (I’ve been looking for one, on and off, for a couple of years). The early E2 is more efficient than the others, and can accommodate the Proline blade (which is not available in an injector cartridge). I don’t care about removing the blade for cleaning, but being able to easily insert a Proline is a plus. Plus, the early E2 gives me a better shave than my other Schicks, even when I use a twin blade in them. (The Es won’t take a twin blade.) Just my $.02.
 
I’ve got a bunch of Schicks, from B to O (the latter is a clone). I recommend you patiently seek an early E2, with the swiveling spring, or an E1 which, based on my experience, is close to impossible to find (I’ve been looking for one, on and off, for a couple of years). The early E2 is more efficient than the others, and can accommodate the Proline blade (which is not available in an injector cartridge). I don’t care about removing the blade for cleaning, but being able to easily insert a Proline is a plus. Plus, the early E2 gives me a better shave than my other Schicks, even when I use a twin blade in them. (The Es won’t take a twin blade.) Just my $.02.
I have an opening E2 that is a great razor and one that has the two dimples. They
don’t shave the same.
 
Good advice above! But I don't quite buy into the "factory scratch" theory. Possible but not probable.

From the other thread:

"Above is a NOS Schick G. It has never been used or opened up and still has the copper blade blank in place. When I got it it was in the original packaging. The scratch is clearly visible.

In the manufacturing process the spring is riveted to the frame while turned sideways. It is swung into place (creating the scratch) and then the tab securing it is punched up. If the spring cleared the base plate it would not have the proper tension."

Yeah, I think it's strange to allow such a blemish during manufacturing but perhaps they didn't think it was cost effective at the time to fix a superficial scratch that ultimately didn't affect the shave. They seem to have corrected it somewhere along the way because not all the ones I've seen have the scratch.
 
I recommend you patiently seek an early E2, with the swiveling spring, or an E1 which, based on my experience, is close to impossible to find (I’ve been looking for one, on and off, for a couple of years). The early E2 is more efficient than the others, and can accommodate the Proline blade (which is not available in an injector cartridge).

I have an opening E2 that is a great razor and one that has the two dimples. They don’t shave the same.

Thanks for the suggestion. I doubt I'll be able to acquire an E1, sounds like they're super rare and out of my casual collector price range. :)

More efficient, don't shave the same, meaning they're more aggressive with a wider blade gap?
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I doubt I'll be able to acquire an E1, sounds like they're super rare and out of my casual collector price range. :)

More efficient, don't shave the same, meaning they're more aggressive with a wider blade gap?
I’m always looking. Never know!!!;/
 
Personally, I’ve found the difference to be more with the depth of the safety bar.


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From the other thread:

"Above is a NOS Schick G. It has never been used or opened up and still has the copper blade blank in place. When I got it it was in the original packaging. The scratch is clearly visible.

In the manufacturing process the spring is riveted to the frame while turned sideways. It is swung into place (creating the scratch) and then the tab securing it is punched up. If the spring cleared the base plate it would not have the proper tension."

Yeah, I think it's strange to allow such a blemish during manufacturing but perhaps they didn't think it was cost effective at the time to fix a superficial scratch that ultimately didn't affect the shave. They seem to have corrected it somewhere along the way because not all the ones I've seen have the scratch.
I have several Type G's that have had a lot of usage from presumably many shavers over the years. None of them have that nefarious scratch. I suggest it was a factory anomaly on the one razor you mentioned.

I also suggest the assembly did not involve setting the large "rivet" and then manually swinging the spring into place. That would be difficult and cumbersome to do on an assembly line. Rather it was vice versa. Or maybe a special machine was involved. But who knows?
 
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