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Sanding strops

Ok so i have sanded down one of my cheaper strops. Problem is that it seems like some grit is left on the strop, put a clean edge finished on a black ark to it and the tree topping actually got worse.
Looking at it from my microscope it has wide scratches down to the apex.(tested by repeatedly going to an 8k to remove those scratches only to have them back as soon as i hit the strop)
From that i can only assume some abrasive of the sandpaper is left on the strop.
I have tried rubbing it with a dry sponge while using a vacum cleaner. Slightly better but the problem is still there.

Any ideas on what should be done?
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
Maybe a vigorous scrub with a cheap terry cloth towel or washcloth. I find that cheap "dollar store" types are quite hard but great for tasks like this and around the workshop where most cloths are too soft. Ball it up into a tight ball and scrub away. Also maybe a very stiff bristle scrub brush.
 
Ok so i have sanded down one of my cheaper strops. Problem is that it seems like some grit is left on the strop, put a clean edge finished on a black ark to it and the tree topping actually got worse.
Looking at it from my microscope it has wide scratches down to the apex.(tested by repeatedly going to an 8k to remove those scratches only to have them back as soon as i hit the strop)
From that i can only assume some abrasive of the sandpaper is left on the strop.
I have tried rubbing it with a dry sponge while using a vacum cleaner. Slightly better but the problem is still there.

Any ideas on what should be done?

What type of sandpaper did you use? If you used a grade designed for use on wood, the grit may well have come loose and become embedded in the strop. It is better to use wet/dry paper designed for sanding metal as the abrasives are more tightly bonded to the substrate. I have also used 3M Pro Grade Precision Ultra Flexible Sanding Sheets. I have seen some folks use a razor hone or even a barber hone for sanding strops. A well used diamond hone also works well.

If large grit particles have been embedded into the leather, it might be impossible to get them all out. If that is the case, be glad it was one of your less expensive strops.
 
I've always used garnet sandpaper for rougher sanding as needed, 120x-180x, to make a toothy surface for pasting, as that was what was shown to me a few years back by a straight-razor dealer in France. Vacuuming off the leather immediately afterwards, I've never had a problem with the grit loading in the leather surface.
 
I've always used garnet sandpaper for rougher sanding as needed, 120x-180x, to make a toothy surface for pasting, as that was what was shown to me a few years back by a straight-razor dealer in France. Vacuuming off the leather immediately afterwards, I've never had a problem with the grit loading in the leather surface.


I think the key was sanding and then immediately removing the garnet sand. However, if you then try to strop a blade, the pressure of the blade is going to start pressing the abrasive grit down into the leather.
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
I think the key was sanding and then immediately removing the garnet sand. However, if you then try to strop a blade, the pressure of the blade is going to start pressing the abrasive grit down into the leather.

This for sure
 
Thank you all for your replies, ill try to sand it down again to get rid of any embedded abrasive. vacum clean it, brush it with a bristle brush and then rub it with a wash cloth.

I tried the strop after just using a boar brush and a wash cloth. the scratches is not all over the bevel. but they are concentrated at the apex, so embedded abrasive that probably has to be sanded away, unless you guys know a better way of get rid of those last small persistent abrasive particles.
:a13:

Edit: i use wet/dry sandpaper used for metal polishing.
 
I doubt that you put sandpaper abrasive into the leather. More likely the strop was pasted before and you just didn’t know, And what you’ve done is pushed the abrasive into weird isolated locations so that the damage it does to the edge is more noticeable. I’ve sanded dozens of strops and never had abrasive left behind, And I’ve purchased dozens of strops that were rubbed with abrasive, and no amount of cleaning was able to get it out.
 
I doubt that you put sandpaper abrasive into the leather. More likely the strop was pasted before and you just didn’t know, And what you’ve done is pushed the abrasive into weird isolated locations so that the damage it does to the edge is more noticeable. I’ve sanded dozens of strops and never had abrasive left behind, And I’ve purchased dozens of strops that were rubbed with abrasive, and no amount of cleaning was able to get it out.
It was my first strop, never been pasted.
I keep it in a different room from my pasted cotton belts to make sure the leather doesnt get contaminated. I rarely ever use those belts nowdays, but before i was really careful not to contaminate the strop.
However can it be metal particles from the razor more deeply embedded?
Would you sand it down even more? Or would it be more of a lost cause?
 
Let me know if you want to see something abit closer.
 

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duke762

Rose to the occasion
Just restored an Ebay beater. Went thru a progression of wet/dry and it came out wonderful. I'd hit it with a full progression and see what you end up with. If it's unsatisfactory now, it can't get any worse. Say 400 to 1000 or so. I use 3M automotive wet/dry. It's very high quality and doesn't seem to shed grit. Really interested in how this works out for you!
 
I'd also suggest wetting the surface a little and rubbing it briskly with balled up newspaper. This should smooth the surface and create a slight sheen. Learned this from an old leather worker. Best wishes
 
You need to sand it finer and condition it. As it is, it almost looks like suede. Those chewed up edges could be hiding a small cat, much less sandpaper grit.

What grit paper were you using?
 
Thank you all for your response, it is much appreciated!

I used 320 grit sandpaper but i tried 600 grit today, made the chewed up edges abit less "fussy" but made them larger and a bit more of them.
Not quality leather that is for sure. the grain size is quite large.
The reason i liked to use this strop is because its soft and easy to get friction, suede-like yeah.

Will have to experiment abit more, but seems like a lost cause at this point.
 
Yeah, I don't know if you really can sand the flesh side of leather without tearing it up. Maybe someone else can comment... but if your strop is low enough quality, that you're already into the flesh side (suede) material... you may be out of luck.
 
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