Rookie strop questions

[gpjoe]

Got a few shave-ready straight razors on the way, two from a member here and another from the 'bay. I'm not expecting great things from Ebay, but at least I'll have two from the forum member as my reference edges.

Anyway, in anticipation of receiving my razors, I bought a Heirloom Vanilla strop (wow, it's very nice). Now, I'm wondering how to use it. Not the mechanics, I've been practicing with a $20 Chinese razor on a denim strop.

My question is:

On my Tony Miller strop, when do I use the fabric, and when do I use the leather?

 

[IvoryScales]

I dry the blade on my towel first, sliding slowly from spine to edge a couple of times. To my understanding, it's linen first, to cleanse the edge of any microscopic contaminants such as skin flakes, soap, and hair particles. Then, I use it on the leather to even out the microscopic peaks in the blade's edge . I go by the instructions given to me by my honemeister: 25 strokes on the cloth, 75 strokes on the leather.

 

[gpjoe]

I dry the blade on my towel first, sliding slowly from spine to edge a couple of times. To my understanding, it's linen first, to cleanse the edge of any microscopic contaminants such as skin flakes, soap, and hair particles. Then, I use it on the leather to even out the microscopic peaks in the blade's edge . I go by the instructions given to me by my honemeister: 25 strokes on the cloth, 75 strokes on the leather.

Thank you.

 

[rbscebu]

I am about the same as @IvoryScales. After the shave I rinse the blade under running hot water, being careful to keep the pivot pin area dry, then dry the blade with a towel. After the towel, the blade gets about half-a-dozen laps on a cloth strop to further clean the bevel/edge. The SR is then put away.

Just before the next shave, the blade is given about 50 to 60 laps on a clean leather strop. This is done to remove and oxidation that may have formed on the bevel/edge between shaves and to realign any deformations that may be present from the last shave.

Remember that every person's definition of shave-ready may be different. Some like laser sharp super-keen edges while others prefer a milder more comfortable edge to shave with. I started my SR journey with the former and developed my technique on same so that is what I prefer.

With my recent time shaving with the Titan T.H.60 off the CeOx pasted denim strop, I experienced the comfort and easy shaving with a milder edge. I still prefer the diamond pasted balsa edge. I think it just comes down to what you are use to.

 

[IvoryScales]

I am about the same as @IvoryScales. After the shave I rinse the blade under running hot water, being careful to keep the pivot pin area dry, then dry the blade with a towel. After the towel, the blade gets about half-a-dozen laps on a cloth strop to further clean the bevel/edge. The SR is then put away.

Just before the next shave, the blade is given about 50 to 60 laps on a clean leather strop. This is done to remove and oxidation that may have formed on the bevel/edge between shaves and to realign any deformations that may be present from the last shave.

Remember that every person's definition of shave-ready may be different. Some like laser sharp super-keen edges while others prefer a milder more comfortable edge to shave with. I started my SR journey with the former and developed my technique on same so that is what I prefer.

With my recent time shaving with the Titan T.H.60 off the CeOx pasted denim strop, I experienced the comfort and easy shaving with a milder edge. I still prefer the diamond pasted balsa edge. I think it just comes down to what you are use to.

I always do all of the drying and cloth/leather stroping after my shave. Then it's ready to use as soon as I pick it up next time. 2-3 days between shaves for me. This is just my way, and I see nothing wrong with yours.

 

[gpjoe]

I am about the same as @IvoryScales. After the shave I rinse the blade under running hot water, being careful to keep the pivot pin area dry, then dry the blade with a towel. After the towel, the blade gets about half-a-dozen laps on a cloth strop to further clean the bevel/edge. The SR is then put away.

Just before the next shave, the blade is given about 50 to 60 laps on a clean leather strop. This is done to remove and oxidation that may have formed on the bevel/edge between shaves and to realign any deformations that may be present from the last shave.

Remember that every person's definition of shave-ready may be different. Some like laser sharp super-keen edges while others prefer a milder more comfortable edge to shave with. I started my SR journey with the former and developed my technique on same so that is what I prefer.

With my recent time shaving with the Titan T.H.60 off the CeOx pasted denim strop, I experienced the comfort and easy shaving with a milder edge. I still prefer the diamond pasted balsa edge. I think it just comes down to what you are use to.

I always do all of the drying and cloth/leather stroping after my shave. Then it's ready to use as soon as I pick it up next time. 2-3 days between shaves for me. This is just my way, and I see nothing wrong with yours.

Which brings to mind another question, which has likely been discussed and answered a million times (sorry):

When is it necessary to apply a rust inhibitor to the blade?

I only plan to use my SR intermittently (of course that may change), so I'm thinking that if the razor will be sitting, it may need protection. How long can a bare blade sit before rust is a concern?

 

[alex1921]

Depends where you live, is your house air conditioned etc. I had some razors sit on a shelve for few years, no oil or anything, and there was zero rust. Some modern razors tend to oxidize rather quickly while shaving or honing and get water spots. They are very easy to remove but right now as a prevention I apply a coat of ren wax on everything.
I dry my razors open overnight after using them just in case water got inside the scales.

 

[gpjoe]

Depends where you live, is your house air conditioned etc. I had some razors sit on a shelve for few years, no oil or anything, and there was zero rust. Some modern razors tend to oxidize rather quickly while shaving or honing and get water spots. They are very easy to remove but right now as a prevention I apply a coat of ren wax on everything.
I dry my razors open overnight after using them just in case water got inside the scales.

Thanks.

I'm in Michigan, so not tropical by any sense but it can get a bit humid, 90% and higher is not uncommon in the summer but the A/C takes care of that.

In the winter, I burn a wood stove for heat a few times a week and the indoor humidity rarely gets to 30%. In fact, touching any metal object causes a static spark.

I suppose a thin coat of oil can't hurt purely as a preventive measure, as with firearms.

 

[alex1921]

Thanks.

I'm in Michigan, so not tropical by any sense but it can get a bit humid, 90% and higher is not uncommon in the summer but the A/C takes care of that.

In the winter, I burn a wood stove for heat a few times a week and the indoor humidity rarely gets to 30%. In fact, touching any metal object causes a static spark.

I suppose a thin coat of oil can't hurt purely as a preventive measure, as with firearms.

You welcome.
Yeah, being cautious and using oil wont hurt anything.

 

[JPO]

Thanks.

I'm in Michigan, so not tropical by any sense but it can get a bit humid, 90% and higher is not uncommon in the summer but the A/C takes care of that.

In the winter, I burn a wood stove for heat a few times a week and the indoor humidity rarely gets to 30%. In fact, touching any metal object causes a static spark.

I suppose a thin coat of oil can't hurt purely as a preventive measure, as with firearms.

I actually store all my razors in the bathroom. Therefore I apply oil after every use, even I plan on using it the next day.
Humidity only tells you half the story. The ambient temperature is just as important. If the combination of heat and humidity is not close to the dew point you are not going to get corrosion.

 

[gpjoe]

I actually store all my razors in the bathroom. Therefore I apply oil after every use, even I plan on using it the next day.
Humidity only tells you half the story. The ambient temperature is just as important. If the combination of heat and humidity is not close to the dew point you are not going to get corrosion.

OK, thanks.

I'll probably oil them either way. It's simple enough and I've got plenty of oils and grease that I use on my firearms, which have been fine for many years.

 

[Kyle89]

Congrats on the new strop!

 

[DrStrange]

Which brings to mind another question, which has likely been discussed and answered a million times (sorry):

When is it necessary to apply a rust inhibitor to the blade?

I only plan to use my SR intermittently (of course that may change), so I'm thinking that if the razor will be sitting, it may need protection. How long can a bare blade sit before rust is a concern?

I keep mine in a sealed container along with camphor crystals.

Very easy, completely effective.

 

[gpjoe]

I keep mine in a sealed container along with camphor crystals.

Very easy, completely effective.

I'm guessing that is a desiccant?

 

[gpjoe]

Congrats on the new strop!

Thank you. I'm very impressed with the strop, even if it is the base model. The hardware is very robust, and as long as I don't ruin it, it should easily out live me.

Very nice, high quality item at a value price.

 

[Wombat ESQ]

A take away from steel related industries, asking questions, gathering information, dabbling in the occult and alchemy, oh and life experience.

Steel oxidises, rust, iron oxide is Fe2O3, fe being 2 of iron plus 3 oxygens, this can be accelerated by water to get Fe2O3•[?]H2O .. [?] is up to 30 odd h2o's or waters.
I therefore submit that it is not water, but oxygen that is the culprit that starts the process and water is the ''accelerator''.
Salt water is even more detrimental to iron. Humidity is not good, a steamy bathroom. I use good old chalk as a dehumidifier, seems to work and no razor lives in my bathroom.
As oxygen can not be avoided, the removal of any ''accelerant'' be my recommendation, be that water, or I'm submitting a worse one 'finger/skin-oils/acids' ... and maybe soaps? I don't read the ingredients, but they taste nasty!

In steel finishing it is recommended coating in under four hours, the time it takes oxygen to react with steel, it won't be visible to the eye.

I've found the tangs on pristine razors that are touched to open the blade for occasional 'rust' inspection and not cleaned of fingerprints suffer the dreaded black rust stains I am now in the 'white glove' league, soft in the head but understand why conservators/curators use white gloves.

 

[DrStrange]

I'm guessing that is a desiccant?

"Solid camphor releases fumes that form a rust-preventative coating and is therefore stored in tool chests to protect tools against rust.[31]"

Camphor - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[Derwent]

Mine are in an airtight container with a bag of silica gel.

 

[sanookd]

Thanks.

I'm in Michigan, so not tropical by any sense but it can get a bit humid, 90% and higher is not uncommon in the summer but the A/C takes care of that.

In the winter, I burn a wood stove for heat a few times a week and the indoor humidity rarely gets to 30%. In fact, touching any metal object causes a static spark.

I suppose a thin coat of oil can't hurt purely as a preventive measure, as with firearms.

Depending of where you are in Michigan you may want to consider going to the Maggards meet up in Adrian June 3.
You might like it and see basically the entire spectrum of the wet shaving world under one roof.

 

[gpjoe]

Depending of where you are in Michigan you may want to consider going to the Maggards meet up in Adrian June 3.
You might like it and see basically the entire spectrum of the wet shaving world under one roof.

Oh, I'm going to Maggards...eventually.

I grew up and spent 60 years in St Clair Shores, which is about an hour or so east of their shop. I've moved north, and am now approximately 170 miles from Maggards, but I will go there one day.