Roofing Question (shingles).

[millertime150]

I have some hail damage and I am hoping to get a new roof soon. I currently have cheap builder grade shingles (don't know the warranty in years) that are just plain charcoal colored flat shingles.

I am thinking of getting the architectural kind for aesthetic reasons. I don't have ridge-caps and I don't know as of yet how much more they will cost but I am thinking of getting them.

Anyone have ridge-caps? Are they worth paying extra for as far as energy savings?

Also any pointers or tips about dealing with the contractors, insurance, or picking the right shingle.

 

[richmondesi]

I have some hail damage and I am hoping to get a new roof soon. I currently have cheap builder grade shingles (don't know the warranty in years) that are just plain charcoal colored flat shingles.

I am thinking of getting the architectural kind for aesthetic reasons. I don't have ridge-caps and I don't know as of yet how much more they will cost but I am thinking of getting them.

Anyone have ridge-caps? Are they worth paying extra for as far as energy savings?

Also any pointers or tips about dealing with the contractors, insurance, or picking the right shingle.

Ridge caps are really inexpensive. You probably had 15 year shingles. If I were you, I'd get the 35 year shingles because they aren't that much more expensive and they look/perform better for you too. I've done a little roofing and construction. You don't have too bad of a job on your hands.

 

[Dustinl]

Currently Owens Corning 3-Tabs run about $57 a square (3 bundles equaling 100 square ft. total). OC Pro 30 (30 yr warranty) are running around $80 a square. Depending on how old your house is and if the warranty is still good, you should be able to replace them with no problem. Most warranties are cost-plus, meaning that if you had your house roofed 15 years ago when 3-tabs(currently 25 yr warranty) were $20 a square, the insurance company will replace your roof at current market prices. And if I remember correctly, the roof warranty should have been transfirable assuming you bought your house existing.

When you say ridge caps, I assume you mean ridge vents? Roofing contractors always use ridge caps, usually being the tabs from a 3-tab shingle. Ridge vents come in rolls of 25ft or 4ft lengths of rigid plastic. They run about $25 per 4ft. section. the roofer will nail the shingle tabs right on them. I think the high definition looks great! By using ridge caps, you can actually go into your attic with a flashlight and see the flow of dust particles lifting up from the soffit vents right to the ridges.


DL

 

[richmondesi]

Currently Owens Corning 3-Tabs run about $57 a square (3 bundles equaling 100 square ft. total). OC Pro 30 (30 yr warranty) are running around $80 a square. Depending on how old your house is and if the warranty is still good, you should be able to replace them with no problem. Most warranties are cost-plus, meaning that if you had your house roofed 15 years ago when 3-tabs(currently 25 yr warranty) were $20 a square, the insurance company will replace your roof at current market prices. And if I remember correctly, the roof warranty should have been transfirable assuming you bought your house existing.

When you say ridge caps, I assume you mean ridge vents? Roofing contractors always use ridge caps, usually being the tabs from a 3-tab shingle. Ridge vents come in rolls of 25ft or 4ft lengths of rigid plastic. They run about $25 per 4ft. section. the roofer will nail the shingle tabs right on them. I think the high definition looks great! By using ridge caps, you can actually go into your attic with a flashlight and see the flow of dust particles lifting up from the soffit vents right to the ridges.


DL

It's obvious that someone has built a house recently

 

[Dustinl]

It's obvious that someone has built a house recently

Actually, when not building boots on the weekends, I estimate blueprints for builders the other 5 days of the week.


DL

 

[thirdeye]

Architectural shingles are the way to go if you plan on staying in your home hands down.

Ridge vents are cheap in cost and worth their weight in gold. I have noticed a dramatic savings in my heating and cooling over the last five years since I installed mine.

Just remember to block up any gable end vents you may currently have as they will render the ridge vents almost useless.

 

[millertime150]

Architectural shingles are the way to go if you plan on staying in your home hands down.

Ridge vents are cheap in cost and worth their weight in gold. I have noticed a dramatic savings in my heating and cooling over the last five years since I installed mine.

Just remember to block up any gable end vents you may currently have as they will render the ridge vents almost useless.

I hope the roofers block up the gables end vents. I will double check with them.

I only have one AC unit in my house and I have a 2 story living room (don't know the term but high ceilings). My upstairs is always hot and downstairs is much cooler. Do you think the ridge vents would help with that? What is the purpose of a ridge vent.

I am hoping my insurance covers everything including the ridge vents and architectural roof but if it doesn't I hope it is not a lot more to get these upgrades.

 

[thirdeye]

My upstairs is always hot and downstairs is much cooler. Do you think the ridge vents would help with that? What is the purpose of a ridge vent.

Yes this will help. Attics pocket hot air which in turn hold heat down on the lower house space. The old still gable vents did very little in the way of air flow, even with soffit vents. For years folks put in vents along the roof which help some but still not much as the only had a small area of escape.

Hot air always finds the highest points first and then backs up or down in the case of a house attic. Ridge vents are at the highest point and extend the length of the ridge(s). Air flows up through the soffit vents and follows up to the ridge.
I can go up in my attic and feel the air flowing up and out hence the hot air is almost sucked right out.

I have AC but I have not used mine at all this year, just my ceiling exhaust fan.

 

[TinFish]

+1 Ridge vents = Good
Also, this may be a good time to check your attic insulation. If it's the blown in kind, it tends to settle over time, compromising its R value. It's fairly easy and inexpensive to top it off.

 

[ouch]

Is there anything you guys don't know?

Great advice about blocking the gable vents.

 

[mretzloff]

Ridge caps are really inexpensive. You probably had 15 year shingles. If I were you, I'd get the 35 year shingles because they aren't that much more expensive and they look/perform better for you too. I've done a little roofing and construction. You don't have too bad of a job on your hands.

+1

My parents have 35 year shingles and while 90% of our neighborhood has had to replace their shingles at one point or another, my parents have never had any problems (believe it or not, we've had hail a few times here in Matthews).

 

[sanuginz]

Also any pointers or tips about dealing with the contractors, insurance, or picking the right shingle.

I can tell you I have over 5 years experience working in this industry from both a contractor / insurance adjuster perspective. Have you been approved from the insurance yet? This is the most important. No point in wasting yours and contractors time if you don't get approved. Pricing doesn't matter. The insurance will work with your contractor of choice' prices. The adjuster uses a program that pays the market rate in your area. The only thing you have to pay out of pocket for is deductible and upgrades.

I would choose a contractor that has a lot of job signs in your neighborhood. Your policy will only pay for what you currently have. So you would have to pay for the upgrade to an architectural shingle, cobra/ridge vent, nice ridge caps, etc. Some contractors will offer you $50-$500 to place a job sign in your yard. You can use this money to offset your deductible and pay for upgrades. Where do you live? Depending on your geographic location you might want to upgrade to ice/water shield or a better underlayment. If you upgrade to a cobra/ridge vent, make sure to cover up your gable vents (if you have them) and your turtle vents (1'x1'). If you don't cover these vents you can create a "short circuit" ventilation and reduce effectiveness dramatically. Cover with plywood not a thin strip of metal some contractors will try to use.

In terms of shingle selection, most people will be best off with a 30 year architectural. 35 year I would stay away from because usually the cheapo brands sell 35 year as a gimmick. You want to go with GAF, ELK, Owens Corning, or Certainteed. Everything else is risky. My personal favorite is GAF. They are the largest and they have the best more subtle colors everyone will like IMHO. If you want more bling than ELK will fit your bill. Owens Corning has a great sealant, if you live in a windy area you might want them. Your contractor will give you samples upon request.

I will be glad to help with any more questions..

 

[millertime150]

I can tell you I have over 5 years experience working in this industry from both a contractor / insurance adjuster perspective. Have you been approved from the insurance yet? This is the most important. No point in wasting yours and contractors time if you don't get approved. Pricing doesn't matter. The insurance will work with your contractor of choice' prices. The adjuster uses a program that pays the market rate in your area. The only thing you have to pay out of pocket for is deductible and upgrades.

I would choose a contractor that has a lot of job signs in your neighborhood. Your policy will only pay for what you currently have. So you would have to pay for the upgrade to an architectural shingle, cobra/ridge vent, nice ridge caps, etc. Some contractors will offer you $50-$500 to place a job sign in your yard. You can use this money to offset your deductible and pay for upgrades. Where do you live? Depending on your geographic location you might want to upgrade to ice/water shield or a better underlayment. If you upgrade to a cobra/ridge vent, make sure to cover up your gable vents (if you have them) and your turtle vents (1'x1'). If you don't cover these vents you can create a "short circuit" ventilation and reduce effectiveness dramatically. Cover with plywood not a thin strip of metal some contractors will try to use.

In terms of shingle selection, most people will be best off with a 30 year architectural. 35 year I would stay away from because usually the cheapo brands sell 35 year as a gimmick. You want to go with GAF, ELK, Owens Corning, or Certainteed. Everything else is risky. My personal favorite is GAF. They are the largest and they have the best more subtle colors everyone will like IMHO. If you want more bling than ELK will fit your bill. Owens Corning has a great sealant, if you live in a windy area you might want them. Your contractor will give you samples upon request.

I will be glad to help with any more questions..

GAF is the roofing they use. They have a good, better, best page on their website. I will probably go with one from the better section.

I live in the south and the company is Kencor Construction. I don't think they did many roofs in my area but they are registered with BBB and a few other things. They also provided a list of references.

75% of my neighborhood got new roofs during a hail storm 2-3 yrs ago. I needed one BUT my insurance adjuster was a shady cheap bastard (pardon my language) and he wouldn't give me enough to cover the job. I fought tooth and nail to get him to increase the amount and even found that he miscalculated the squares. He increased it but it still would have cost me $700 more than my $1000 deductible so I didn't do it (Most of my neighbors got their roofs for free through insurance). I hope to have another adjuster this time and Kencor seems really willing to work with the adjuster and are 99.99% sure they can do the roof for free.

I filed a claim and I am waiting to here from the adjuster so I can set up a time for he/she to come out and inspect withthe contractor and I.

Thanks for the advice. I will let you know if I have any other questions.

 

[ctr]

I live in the south and the company is Kencor Construction. I don't think they did many roofs in my area but they are registered with BBB and a few other things. They also provided a list of references.

Check with some of the local builders as well. In slow times they will often do roofing jobs and can come in well below the roofing company. We did that a few years ago and saved big $$$$. We got a quality roof with architectural 3 tab shingles, ridge vents, drip edges the works. And the roof is solid, never leaks, and our shingles don't blow off in storms like the neighbors.

 

[sanuginz]

Good luck on the adjuster meeting. Please let us know how it goes. If they deny you, you can still file for a re-inspect with a different adjuster at different date.

Also, it's very important that you show your adjuster what's called "collateral damage" on the house. This is damage not related to the roof repair. The contractor basically will worry about the roof being approved and not worry so much about the rest of it (after all they want the big roof job and not little repair jobs), but the insurance is liable for all damages to the property. This collateral damage includes: roof leaks inside, skylight flashings dents, chimney tops dents, blown off siding patches, window dents, garage door dents, lawn ornament dents, gutter dents, fascia dents, AC unit damage if your AC fans are the kind exposed, Deck or Fence pressure washing, even mailbox damage. Also, any paint chips on your siding or fascia if wooden. If you have aluminum siding you may get new siding as well.

Before the adjuster arrives inspect your house very carefully for these things. It may take 1 hour to do this. Look at very sharp angles for any dents. Even the smallest dents will be covered under your policy. Show your contractor what you think is hail damage and they can usually tell what is and what's not. So this way you both can show the adjuster. I would not advise getting on the roof, but I would advise coming outside a couple times and looking up at them maybe say something short. This way it shows concern and interest for the property.

The collateral damages that are most likely to get approved and pay the most are gutters, fascia, and interior leaks. You can use this "collateral damage" money, plus your contractor bonus to offset your deductible and upgrade costs. Good Luck and let us know how it goes!

 

[millertime150]

Good luck on the adjuster meeting. Please let us know how it goes. If they deny you, you can still file for a re-inspect with a different adjuster at different date.

Also, it's very important that you show your adjuster what's called "collateral damage" on the house. This is damage not related to the roof repair. The contractor basically will worry about the roof being approved and not worry so much about the rest of it (after all they want the big roof job and not little repair jobs), but the insurance is liable for all damages to the property. This collateral damage includes: roof leaks inside, skylight flashings dents, chimney tops dents, blown off siding patches, window dents, garage door dents, lawn ornament dents, gutter dents, fascia dents, AC unit damage if your AC fans are the kind exposed, Deck or Fence pressure washing, even mailbox damage. Also, any paint chips on your siding or fascia if wooden. If you have aluminum siding you may get new siding as well.

Before the adjuster arrives inspect your house very carefully for these things. It may take 1 hour to do this. Look at very sharp angles for any dents. Even the smallest dents will be covered under your policy. Show your contractor what you think is hail damage and they can usually tell what is and what's not. So this way you both can show the adjuster. I would not advise getting on the roof, but I would advise coming outside a couple times and looking up at them maybe say something short. This way it shows concern and interest for the property.

The collateral damages that are most likely to get approved and pay the most are gutters, fascia, and interior leaks. You can use this "collateral damage" money, plus your contractor bonus to offset your deductible and upgrade costs. Good Luck and let us know how it goes!

I think collateral damage is what the contractor was talking about and he said not to worry about coming out of pocket with anything.

Man you are awesome. Thanks for the advice. I do have a interior leak coming from the bay window area.

 

[flabajaba2213]

Ridge vents are awesome, and help to stop "sick house syndrome" before it starts. Also, I'd invest in tar paper, which isn't too expensive, and really makes for a much better job. Also, a small can of roofing tar to seal nail holes is recommended. Best thing to do (if you are up to it) is to wait until night, and have someone shine a flashlight from the inside. Then,. you can see where you need to put a little tar. It is a small step that makes for a much nicer finished product.

Since my father is a builder, I have been shingling roofs, sidewallin', blue board and plaster, and tarring foundations since I was 12. Best advice is to do as much research as you can, buy the right equipment, and take your time. If it takes 2 days, it'll take 2 days. Rather have it take more time and be done for 30 years than have to redo it a few years later because of a shortcut.

 

[Evangeline Parker]

I was having problem on installing a last ride shingle so I used roofing caulk to install the last piece, suck bricks or some other kind of weight to hold down the cap until the caulk dries.If you are wanting any info related to contractor you can easily go to http://homecontractorsdirect.ca/

 

[Mojo88]

Great advice on the above posts ,I would make sure they do a complete tear off and not put a roof over a roof. I bought a house with 2 layers of roof and it is nothing but problems. In addition to leaks it shortens the life span of the roof by adding that extra layer. Also make sure to check and see if the roofer has insurance and pays workers comp, ask for his certificates. In the event of an accident without those certificates youas the homeowner can be responsible in some states to pay that workers comp. claim.

 

[Dennis]

I just had my roof redone last year. I went with 35 year architectural shingles and they added a ridge vent. If you do not have soffit vents (I did not) they will need to add those. The ridge vent by itself does nothing without soffit vents to draw fresh air in at the bottom. Adding a ridge vent is not big deal in the slightest. The contractor just runs a shallow set circular saw down each side of the ridge line, pops the underlayment off and adds a commercial vent (either a intricate foam like thing or a plastic cap).

I am sure building codes are different for roofs here in Michigan than they are in the south. We need waterproof barrier for the first 6 feet of roof to help with any ice dams and snow. Your local guy will know all about that though and can fill you in on what is required. If you have only one layer on your roof, you can just shingle over that and it will be good for the life of the shingle. The next roof job, however, is a double layer tear off which will run more. We just had a double layer tear off, several boards replaced, a ridge cap, vents and all new flashing. I want to say it was around $3500-$4000 for our single story ranch. Oh, and be prepared to find and pick up roofing nails for the next year even with a magnetic cleanup.