Rock Hard Putty to fill handles?

[azrichter]

I recently made kind of a mess of a handle using a silicone-acrylic caulk to fill it. Ick. Fortunately, it was water-based, so I could wash it out and start fresh.

I'd really like to use something liquid that levels nicely. I did some tests with Durham's Rock Hard Putty, a powdered water putty which I've used often for other stuff. It says it can be poured into molds, so I did some tests.

I made it just thin enough so that it poured easily and leveled and poured it into some small plastic cups. It sets in about 15 minutes, claims not to shrink or expand, and is indeed rock-hard in a couple hours.

I was really impressed when I peeled the plastic away. Made smooth, perfectly level, dense little biscuits that are strong and would even withstand some moisture (though you'd want to be sure the handle is well sealed above/below.) I was able to drill and sand it without cracking---it seems pretty stable. Oh, and a 1 pound can of it cost me $2.42 at Lowe's.

Has anyone else tried Rock Hard Putty as a filler?

 

[MaxP]

Interesting. I'd be concerned about moisture causing it to deteriorate no matter what you did to seal it.

I'm interested to see what other opinions come about.

 

[ras120]

I saw your other thread about using the silicone caulk as a handle filler and thought it was a bad idea, but the majority seemed to think otherwise.

I've done about 30 restores and have filled all of my hollow handles with Devcon 5 minute epoxy and some kind of metal (bb's, washers, etc.). Your concern was about the heat that the epoxy gives off when curing, and although the handles do get extremely hot (too hot to touch, actually), I never had one warp or distort on me.

I posed the question here about epoxy heat a few months back and Mod Jim suggested the brilliant idea of keeping the handle cool in a water bath, and that's exactly what I do.

I just think epoxy is far superior to any other product for filling the handles.

 

[cb91710]

I'd go with the epoxy as well.
5 minute releases a lot of heat, but you can drop down to the 30-60 minute and it will not release so much heat. This becomes more important when there's a large amount in a fairly small space.
There's also epoxy/acrylic casting resins that are available in craft stores and intended to be poured into a mold.

I'd shy away from the putty. It's basically a plaster-like material and it does remain porous. No matter how well you attempt to seal the handle above the putty, water will get in, and it will soak into the putty and remain there, slowly causing it to break down (as well as harboring mold and bacteria.)

RTV silicone is not a bad way to go, but silicone acrylic caulking is water soluble. I made the mistake of sealing the windows on the shell of my truck 20 years ago and it made a mess when it rained 2 days later. I think white glue would have made less of a mess.

 

[jansob]

I've used thin solder.....just keep poking it in and then finish ramming it down it with an icepick or your thinnest allen wrench. No rattle and adds weight nicely.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Red Hand
Plastic Steel
stick-type epoxy

 

[azrichter]

I posed the question here about epoxy heat a few months back and Mod Jim suggested the brilliant idea of keeping the handle cool in a water bath, and that's exactly what I do.

I just think epoxy is far superior to any other product for filling the handles.

Thanks, ras. This is very helpful. You've settled this issue for me, especially with the water-bath idea.

30 minute epoxy flows and levels nicely and epoxy in general is hard, strong, waterproof.

Thanks again.

 

[catherix]

What about the epoxy putty they sell? I recently filled a handle with some marine epoxy putty and assumed it was waterproof.

Nice trick with the water bath. I'm giving that a go on my next restore for sure.

 

[sprite]

I am kinda surprised ive not heard anyone mention unsanded grout?

 

[cb91710]

What about the epoxy putty they sell? I recently filled a handle with some marine epoxy putty and assumed it was waterproof.

Ya, it's fine as long as it's a true 2-part putty that you knead together.

I am kinda surprised ive not heard anyone mention unsanded grout?

Like the plaster based putties and other water-based mixtures, I'd be concerned about durability with the constant exposure to water without opportunity to completely dry.
Maybe if I had a 30 brush rotation, but something that deep in the handle is going to retain some water for days after exposure... and support mold.

 

[Mack]

I agree with what others have said about using epoxy. I've used on several handles. I never paid attention to the heat while curing but no problem so far.

 

[Le Buzz]

I've used Loctite multipurpose repair putty with great success.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_putty/overview/Loctite-Repair-Putty-Multi-Purpose.htm

 

[Deltaboy]

JB Weld Stick Puddy

 

[azrichter]

I found my answer: I discovered an unopened 8oz kit (4oz resin/4oz hardener) of 30-minute epoxy I had from rocket building some years back. I poured a test cast in a plastic bottle to make sure it was good.

Filled my Ever Ready 100 w/ it. It took almost 30 mL (2 tablespoons). Used a plastic measuring cup, masked off the top of the handle and poured it right in. Used a water bath to keep it cool. Wow! Turned out perfect.

It became evident that there are advantages to pourable epoxy (and longer cure epoxy tend to be a little runnier):

1. It seals and levels. Completely fills the handle and forms a flat top.
2. Creates a single, solid mass that embeds any weights you put in there. Nothing can rattle around.
3. This stuff in particular is very amenable to working with a Dremel. It is hard, but cuts/sands nicely and can handle some heat (though you have to be careful).

I filled it to near the top of the handle and can now work a nice, smooth opening with the Dremel to the depth I want. I practiced on the "slug" I made and was able to machine the solid epoxy easily. I'll try to snap some pics.

Thanks to all who helped me with this. I feel like I found a sure thing.

-Joe

 

[catherix]

Interested to see those pics.

 

[Timo]

I have been using all purpose bondo with excellent results. I love the weight it adds, it levels well, forstner bits cut it easy.

 

[eyesofgrey]

Epoxy also lets the light travel through the handle, if you love the classic translucent Bakelite handles, like I do.
(See profile pic. Handle is filled with Epoxy.)