Restoring an old axe, work in progress

[Old Hippie]

The place where I found the other one had this Plumb in the yard today.

Bringing the heel up to match the toe better is gonna take off a lot of steel. If it's an insert axe that may risk running out of steel.

But on the other hand: orphan tool, not expensive, still has some life in it. I say go for it. At least then you'll know.

I'd probably go for a straight handle, personally. With a straight single-bit I can put the axe where I want it. With a fawn's foot handle I'm like lightning; never strike twice in the same spot.

O.H.

 

[Legion]

Bringing the heel up to match the toe better is gonna take off a lot of steel. If it's an insert axe that may risk running out of steel.

But on the other hand: orphan tool, not expensive, still has some life in it. I say go for it. At least then you'll know.

I'd probably go for a straight handle, personally. With a straight single-bit I can put the axe where I want it. With a fawn's foot handle I'm like lightning; never strike twice in the same spot.

O.H.

I did end up getting it, and it is in the vinegar. As you say, there is still life in it, and until I get around to it, it’s decoration in the shed.

I’m not really spoiled for different handles to choose from here, but I’ll keep an eye out for a straighter one.

 

[Tanuki]

The place where I found the other one had this Plumb in the yard today. What do you all think? Is it worth starting another one? It would cost the equivalent of about $20US, plus a new handle.

View attachment 1618600

I did end up getting it, and it is in the vinegar. As you say, there is still life in it, and until I get around to it, it’s decoration in the shed.

For $20US here I want a usable (I will wedge) handle and will accept a lot of rust.

I should find a better local source for replacement handles. But if I do that, my choices for old blades will approach infinity.

I'm a haggler. My personal first response is to try to beat down the price. But there are a lot of old axes and hatchets in well-forested Oregon. I can be choosey.

I have had a guy chase me out to the parking lot to offer to sell at $2 over my 'best and final'. That kind of guy is a haggler at heart, too. Or is about to close for the day and knows the exact price of the case of beer he has in mind.

 

[Tanuki]

insert axe

They have those in Canada? Some kinda kamisori axe thing?

 

[Legion]

They have those in Canada? Some kinda kamisori axe thing?

If it is what I am thinking of, when they hand forge them, higher carbon steel goes in the edge part, milder for the body and post. Yeah, a bit like a kamisori.

There is a good old video somewhere on YouTube. I’ll try to find it.

 

[Legion]

They have those in Canada? Some kinda kamisori axe thing?

3.34 mins in.

 

[Tanuki]

Excellent short film. Thanks! A different era. I need to take a look at my old axes and hatchets with an informed eye. A punch and my heavy hammer might tell me something about the relative hardness of poll and edge.

I have a niece who went to Colby. Quite the tony college now.

 

[Legion]

Today, a leather edge protector. I made one for the Plumb while I was about it.

 

[Old Hippie]

They have those in Canada? Some kinda kamisori axe thing?

Kind of an antique process, but if I recall correctly there are "insert" axes where the softer steel is forge-welded around a piece of harder steel put in as the bit; then there are "overcoat" axes where the harder steel of the bit is forged up around the softer steel of the head. One is kind of the mirror image of the other.

It was a way of saving on expensive high-carbon steel. They have some disadvantages over a fully forged head. If the axe is abused, such as by hammering with the poll or by forcing a too-large handle into the eye and spreading it they can come apart. For most of us who do not at the moment make our living with an axe, they are a nice affordable high quality vintage piece that can still probably work harder than we can.

I've got one boy's axe that is an insert. It wasn't abused but it has been around a while. Nice little axe. I found the head in Alberta in a little town I was passing through about time for pie and coffee. I also picked up a rather ratty looking double-bit head, no name but dang that steel is hard. That axe lives in my truck along with a pulaski and a saw, because you just never know.

I only have one axe I don't use: an NOS Walters Black Diamond double-bit. Aside from that I have some Swedish axes, a Council (Mrs. Hippie's axe), some Sagers including a felling axe, and some True Temper Welland Vale stuff.

O.H.

 

[Old Hippie]

I should find a better local source for replacement handles. But if I do that, my choices for old blades will approach infinity.

This is a bad thing? I'm one of those old grumps who would rather feed an old handle to the cookstove unless it's in better shape than I'm gonna find on a $20 axe. Or save it for making wedges.

I really want to find someone with a stand of Eastern Hop-Hornbeam so I can trade a couple bottles of Lot 40 rye for some staves to cure out and make handles.

O.H.

 

[Legion]

Kind of an antique process, but if I recall correctly there are "insert" axes where the softer steel is forge-welded around a piece of harder steel put in as the bit; then there are "overcoat" axes where the harder steel of the bit is forged up around the softer steel of the head. One is kind of the mirror image of the other.

It was a way of saving on expensive high-carbon steel. They have some disadvantages over a fully forged head. If the axe is abused, such as by hammering with the poll or by forcing a too-large handle into the eye and spreading it they can come apart. For most of us who do not at the moment make our living with an axe, they are a nice affordable high quality vintage piece that can still probably work harder than we can.

I've got one boy's axe that is an insert. It wasn't abused but it has been around a while. Nice little axe. I found the head in Alberta in a little town I was passing through about time for pie and coffee. I also picked up a rather ratty looking double-bit head, no name but dang that steel is hard. That axe lives in my truck along with a pulaski and a saw, because you just never know.

I only have one axe I don't use: an NOS Walters Black Diamond double-bit. Aside from that I have some Swedish axes, a Council (Mrs. Hippie's axe), some Sagers including a felling axe, and some True Temper Welland Vale stuff.

O.H.

I'm reasonably sure that hatchet head I showed in post #20 is made that way.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I remember seeing some videos out of Scandinavia where they would refurb old axes by splitting the head like a duck bill and forge welding a piece of tool steel into the edge. They did scythes similarly. I think they had a bag of files bought from town for the edge steel.

 

[Stockman1107]

The Tasmanian pattern Axes that were imported to Australia at the turn of the century ( 1900 - 1930 ) are great axes, specifically forged and hardened for Aussie hardwood. They are getting harder to find in good nick today, but if you can find a Plumb, Elwood, Kelly or Braids in this Tassy pattern and from this era, I don't think you will find a better axe.
I made this one up for a carpenter mate of mine who knows I'm into all things sharp.

 

[Legion]

I used a section of the old handle off the Plumb to make a “new” handle for this cute little antique hatchet head I had. Recycling.