Recommend me a Badger knot.

[Okla1911]

Howdy folks I'm looking to pick up my first Badger brush after only using boars. After researching I decided to go the custom route but I'm not sure which knot to go with. Here are a few parameters:

Handle - Got a custom design in mind, but would like overall diameter input.
Technique - I face lather 99% of the time
Soaps or Creams - Both!
Knot Shape - Open, I only have fans right now so a bulb would be a nice change though.
Diameter - 22-24mm
Loft - Not sure about this one, depends on the hair grade maybe somewhere in the 45-54mm range?
Hair Grade - Best or above? I don't know, is one type better for face lathering? 2 band vs 3 band? Is one better than the other?
Budget - unlimited
Total brush height - 90-110mm
Other - I think I'm fairly vigorous in my face lathering so that might be another consideration.

I checked out these 2 knots so far: 24mm Super 2 Band Finest & 24mm High Mountain White at TGN and they seemed fairly nice.

Also any custom brush maker recommendations would be appreciated. I found Rudy Vey's website & Canica's so far. I'm sure there are others out there.

Thanks!

 

[gmgaj]

Look at whipped dog silvertips. My favorite is a 22mm set at around 49mm. You can get econo handles or firehouse pottery in your choice of colors.

 

[nano]

Try asking to Rodney Neep:

http://www.pensoftheforest.co.uk/shaving/shaving-brush.html

He makes almost only custom brushes.
And Forest Flame is very beautiful (IMVHO).

 

[Jarick]

Knot shape: with a badger it will bloom a lot more than a boar, so it will look different. The fans have more hair on the face and the bulbs are more pointy with more backbone. TGN seems to have more options for bulbs though.

Hair type: badger will be floppier than boar, finest a little bit and silvertip more so. Finest will have super soft tips when wet. Silvertip will have tips that will either be the slightest bit scratchy (for regular), less so (grade A), or hardly at all (super). If you're a vigorous face latherer, you might want to stick with finest or super, especially if you have sensitive skin, so you don't get any brush burn. The Whipped Dog silvertip knots are really good too, I think they're between the Grade A and Super silvertip from TGN in a bulb form and fairly cheap.

Diameter: larger knots hold more lather, so if you like 2-3 passes, 22mm would work or for 3-4 passes, I prefer 24mm.

Loft: depends on the knot shape, hair type, diameter, density, and preferences. I ordered a couple knots and am playing with height now. For fans, roughly twice as tall as the knot size. For bulbs, twice as tall and then add 2-4mm or so. For dense hair, go a little higher loft.

My 24mm silvertip set at 45mm feels a bit low, would probably prefer it at 48-50mm. My 22mm fans were at 42-43mm and felt a bit low, so I've bumped them up to 46-47mm or so.

One option is to get the handle and knot separate, then play with the loft until you find one you like. You can check out my thread about brushes, it's super easy. I just got a $5 tube of silicone adhesive from the hardware store, using coins to raise or lower them, etc.

Or you could just ask a brush maker his advice and save the trouble. I haven't worked with anyone outside Larry at Whipped Dog, but I hear good things about Rudy Vey.