Question on Razor Burn

[Gamma]

Most likely not a wire. If it was, the burr would usually fail at some point and not cut well to the end.

By the given description of the shave, the edge was sharp enough. So no issue there.

Linen or leather stropping won't affect an edge negatively, unless it is dirty or used with excessive slack or too much pressure. I've put blades on linen for over 500 laps without issue. Same for leather.

What was described could be caused by lather being too thin or lather being too thick. It happens.
Steep shaving angle, too much pressure, etc... also possibilities.

Time/lap count and pressure on 8k, 12k can affect the edge this way also.
Less than totally effective stropping can do it too.
Bad prep can factor in... lotta seemingly minor things can add up.

It is rarely ever 'just one thing' though. Problems or issues are most often have 'compound' roots, not singular.

 

[JPO]

I'm a little suspect when it comes to linen too. I like the feedback (the wooosh) when you strop. I tend to shy away from linen except coming from a stone.

A high grit synthetic edge can be quite fragile. I usually only use linen with this type of edge after honing.
However, a coticule edge is threated differently. This type of edge seems to do much better with linen.
My linen will mess up a 30k shapton pro edge. All linen is not equal, so this is just my experience, with my strops.

 

[JoeScho]

Most likely not a wire. If it was, the burr would usually fail at some point and not cut well to the end.

By the given description of the shave, the edge was sharp enough. So no issue there.

Linen or leather stropping won't affect an edge negatively, unless it is dirty or used with excessive slack or too much pressure. I've put blades on linen for over 500 laps without issue. Same for leather.

What was described could be caused by lather being too thin or lather being too thick. It happens.
Steep shaving angle, too much pressure, etc... also possibilities.

Time/lap count and pressure on 8k, 12k can affect the edge this way also.
Less than totally effective stropping can do it too.
Bad prep can factor in... lotta seemingly minor things can add up.

It is rarely ever 'just one thing' though. Problems or issues are most often have 'compound' roots, not singular.

Could be a think lather . I tend to make to thick.
The strop is a new purchase from Tony Miller the Russian style strop. I really like it. Its a little more firm. I've also caught myself going in a little steep too.

 

[Gamma]

If you are damaging an edge on linen, its from too much pressure or toxic stuff on or in the material.Not all linen is equal. Im referring to real linen, with a pure weave. I bring edges to a sub .07 um finish on charged strops and follow with linen. Just like finishing on a stone correctly requires minimal pressure so you dont set the edge back. Its the same thing. I do the same with hi grit synths too.

 

[Steve56]

If you are damaging an edge on linen, its from too much pressure or toxic stuff on or in the material.Not all linen is equal. Im referring to real linen, with a pure weave. I bring edges to a sub .07 um finish on charged strops and follow with linen. Just like finishing on a stone correctly requires minimal pressure so you dont set the edge back. Its the same thing. I do the same with hi grit synths too.

What are you calling a ‘pue weave’ Keith? Just curious about what weave might be good to look for - I’m always curious about real linen. Got an image?

 

[Southbound1]

Imo no matter how bumpy or agressive the linen is if it sets any edge back or 'tares it up'' then the edge hasn't been honed down to 'strong steel'. Meaning a good linen is a truth teller and will tell you if you have any weak steel. If you see little metallic flashing divots then you have 'over-honed'. A good flax linen will bump 'edge up', and not tare it down if it does then you have weak spots at the apex. Leather imo can 'hide' imperfections. What i mean is leather has oils and this can 'mask' any deformed micro-deformed uglies. Thats why i like to examine the blade with magnifier after the clean bare linen, before i go to the leather, if everything looks good after the linen.

 

[JoeScho]

Imo no matter how bumpy or agressive the linen is if it sets any edge back or 'tares it up'' then the edge hasn't been honed down to 'strong steel'. Meaning a good linen is a truth teller and will tell you if you have any weak steel. If you see little metallic flashing divots then you have 'over-honed'. A good flax linen will bump 'edge up', and not tare it down if it does then you have weak spots at the apex. Leather imo can 'hide' imperfections. What i mean is leather has oils and this can 'mask' any deformed micro-deformed uglies. Thats why i like to examine the blade with magnifier after the clean bare linen, before i go to the leather, if everything looks good after the linen.

I will use that razor again on Friday and see how it performs. It was better, but not as good as some of my other razors. It may need another look.

Edit: Maybe a run across a piece of glass then 8K - 12K?

 

[Seelector]

I will use that razor again on Friday and see how it performs. It was better, but not as good as some of my other razors. It may need another look.

Edit: Maybe a run across a piece of glass then 8K - 12K?

I'd skip the glass and 8k. Give it 20ish laps on a 12k and see how it shaves. If you're still not happy then drop down to the 8k without killing the edge first.

It takes a while (or at least it took me a while) to figure out when each step of the progression is done. I had a lot of mediocre edges that became wonderful after a few 8k>12k cycles. The problem was the blade just didn't have enough time on the 8k in the first place and all those cycles finally got the edge where it needed to be. I could have saved a lot of time and harsh shaves by getting it right the first time.

 

[JoeScho]

I'd skip the glass and 8k. Give it 20ish laps on a 12k and see how it shaves. If you're still not happy then drop down to the 8k without killing the edge first.

It takes a while (or at least it took me a while) to figure out when each step of the progression is done. I had a lot of mediocre edges that became wonderful after a few 8k>12k cycles. The problem was the blade just didn't have enough time on the 8k in the first place and all those cycles finally got the edge where it needed to be. I could have saved a lot of time and harsh shaves by getting it right the first time.

Thanks I will. I always struggle with that stuff as I'm never sure what to do .

Edit: The other thing I found out was I've been using Sterling's Black Ice AS and it stung like nobody's business. Thought it was bad irritation from the razor. Well, yesterday I used a really nice TI blade I really like and the Black Ice AS stung the same, so I learned something new - just because your AS stings like hell doesn't always mean your razor beat you up.