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Proraso green - lather issue

I love this stuff because it loves my skin, however I have difficulty getting a good lather, same technique as with bonds sandalwood , but lack of foamy stuff, is this a common issue?
 
Proraso is a bit longer loading time. Soap is more difficult to lather than creams. Load more on brush and add water as needed during lather process.
 
I'm going to agree with above; load the Raso heavy, keep the water "up" to it (it can be thirsty) but once you hit the "sweet spot" (and IME Raso's is wide) you WILL get slick lather for an effective shave if you work it (get some agitation happening with some plunging and twisting of the brush to thicken it up). Example below, bowl lathered with an SR3824.

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I face lather the green soft soap. It does take a surprising amount of water and more effort than a cream. I'll add water to my brush 2-3 times while I'm lathering, where-as with TOBS, I usually don't have to add any.
 
I thought that I might be the only one struggling to get a decent lather with Proraso. I use the green tub variety & I use a bowl to make my lather, loading my brush quite heavily. Even when the lather looks "right", it is still a bit watery & does not provide the slickness/lubrication that I get from TOBS soaps. I have also found that with the same razor & blade, I get a closer shave with TOBS soap, than I do with Proraso & I wonder if TOBS soap softens the bristles more. The TOBS soaps I have tried do sting my face a bit though (even Jermyn Street), unlike Proraso & I haven't yet found one that smells better than Proraso.
 
The cream in the tube lathers much more easily than the tub for me, and the tub has more menthol effect.
 
I find that shaking the water from the brush then loading the brush for about 40 seconds and then lathering it in a bowl works fine.

I do the same thing for any soap also a boar brush works better than a badger on soaps in my opinion.
 
Fantastic, thanks


No worries, hoped it helped.

I used to have the problem of shaking out too much water from the badger brush. I don't do that anymore. I find that a full soaked badger brush gives me the amount of water I am looking for and I usually don't have to add any water. Except for some super thirsty soaps like Mike's.
 
I swear I loaded mine at least 3 times trying to get some SOAP in that floofy lather. When it seemed like it was maxed out, and I didn't want to add any more water for fear of making it more floofy, I decided to just shave with it. Then for the first time in my shaving life, I experienced razor chatter. No matter how slow or what angle my tech went skipping across my face. I felt no cooling effect or slickness. So, I used it as cement in my frankensoap. It lathers up quick, I give it that, but it is as slick as water to me.

Si I will save it for a another day when I am bored.
 
I'd pick up a cheap Omega or Semogue boar, if you don't already own one. Boar brushes work extremely well with Italian soft soaps.
Use the wet brush/Marco method and you're guaranteed to get some great lather.
 
For what it's worth I face lather with Proraso. Smear it on your face and lather with your brush adding a little bit of water very so often until you're satisfied.
 
I swirl my brush for a good 40 seconds or so. Then I move to my palm sized bowl, swirl in there to make sure it's of a good thickness then move to my face. It does take some practice though.
 
Face lathering will solve your problem once you get the hang of it . I use badge , boar and horse hair brushes with no problem . Load it for about 20 secs and go to work .
 
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