What's new

Proper way to apply Japanse Lacquer to Jnat

I finally got a hold of some japanese lacquer to seal my Jnat.
Does anyone have any tips on the proper way to apply and cure the lacquer to my stone.
 
From So.

1. Ready one layer of tissue paper, cut into the stone size.
2. Ready two pieces of halved wine corks or similar, and place them on a pile of newspapers This is to place the stone while curing.
3. Lacquer the bottom and a bit into the sides as well, so that you can wrap the tissue onto the sides as well. Cure overnight.
4. Lacquer the sides and then wrap around the properly cut tissue papers. Place the stone on top of the halved corks. Cure overnight.
5. Lacquer the bottom. Cure overnight.
6. Lacquer the sides. Cure overnight.
7. Repeat as many times as you like.
You can skip the tissue paper if you want its used for extra strength.
 
Thanks for the quick response Stefan.

So you put the lacquer on, then overlay with tissue paper while it's still wet
?
Also is there a certain type of brush that is recommended?
 
Thanks for the quick response Stefan.

So you put the lacquer on, then overlay with tissue paper while it's still wet
?
Also is there a certain type of brush that is recommended?
Yes a layer of lacquer then tissue paper on top while the lacquer is still wet.
The tissue paper is for extra strength not necessarily a must.
Just regular brush and also you can use water based lacquer or other, the water based is just easier to clean from the brush after.
 
The correct method depends on the stone.
If you have a stone that is prone to crumbling - Tsushima Black Nagura for example, then you want to start with several super super light/thin coats of lacquers and after a few of those then you would wrap the stone with a layer of a type of Washi Paper that is nearly transparent. It's a tissue type of Washi paper actually. Do this 1-3 times and then overcoat with coats of lacquer to form a protective shell.
Some people use the Washi method even when it's not needed - just for effect.
But - If the stone is stable at the extremities, you can just use lacquer without the paper. You start with super thin coats that soak into the stone and you cure them inbetween subsequent coats. After you get a solid smooth surface the coats can be thicker. Initially you want the coats to be very thin so they soak into the stone.

I have a few videos outlining the typical process on my YT channel if you're interested.

Nail polish can be used also, but it is seemingly more volatile and harder to use when applying the Washi. But for just regular coating, it'll be good enough for government work most of the time.
 
The correct method depends on the stone.
If you have a stone that is prone to crumbling - Tsushima Black Nagura for example, then you want to start with several super super light/thin coats of lacquers and after a few of those then you would wrap the stone with a layer of a type of Washi Paper that is nearly transparent. It's a tissue type of Washi paper actually. Do this 1-3 times and then overcoat with coats of lacquer to form a protective shell.
Some people use the Washi method even when it's not needed - just for effect.
But - If the stone is stable at the extremities, you can just use lacquer without the paper. You start with super thin coats that soak into the stone and you cure them inbetween subsequent coats. After you get a solid smooth surface the coats can be thicker. Initially you want the coats to be very thin so they soak into the stone.

I have a few videos outlining the typical process on my YT channel if you're interested.

Nail polish can be used also, but it is seemingly more volatile and harder to use when applying the Washi. But for just regular coating, it'll be good enough for government work most of the time.

Thanks Keith. I've got the Cashew lacquer on hand, but it would be nice to be able to beef up the nail polish method if the washi added strength to the nail polish.
 
The paper will add strength to the stone by forming an 'exoskelton' of sorts. Of course, for that to be a reality, it has to all be done correctly or all we wind up with is a lacquered paper cup that the stone is sitting in.
 
The paper will add strength to the stone by forming an 'exoskelton' of sorts. Of course, for that to be a reality, it has to all be done correctly or all we wind up with is a lacquered paper cup that the stone is sitting in.

Before I forget Keith, have you tried using Earthpaint (http://www.earthpaint.net/product_mountain.php)? Seems that it has been used successfully by the kitchen knife guys and is much cheaper than the cashew lacquer. Also sounds like it might not have to be thinned, I can't really tell though. Either way, I've picked up a pint to try.

Evidently, their "Mountain" floor finish is a very high quality Cashew lacquer !

I bought a pint of Mountain floor finish, and can recommend it. It did yield a super high quality lacquer finish on natural stones. I tried it on a porous synthetic stone, and it soaked in quickly - so I did not attempt any additional coats.

A little goes a long way. Multiple (~5x) thin coats, using a damp small brush, worked well. You do not need to use painters tape, as you will be applying a very thin coat - with absolutely no chance of running. I let each coat dry for a day, or more, and did a little light sanding between coats. Surface cracks and imperfections disappeared, leaving an even deep rich lacquer finish. Very nice, and easy.

Given that my pint would probably be enough for hundreds of stones - if you are around San Diego you are, of course, welcome to try some of my Earthpaint's Cashhew lacquer mountain floor finish.
 
I tend to follow tradtional methodology here. While any sealant may seem to 'work', not ever material is known to be dimensionally stable on curing, which is a huge concern. The last thing anyone needs is to have some sort of material creep into a crevice and then force it open further. I'm also not convinced that many possible sealers would have the same tendency to penetrate into the stone and cure into a hard layer. Then there's the evidence that, over a very long term, Cashew and Urushi maintain their integrity, feel and look. All of which are important to me. The cost isn't all that high IMO, saving a few pennies pales in comparison to getting the job done the way I want it done.
 
I tend to follow tradtional methodology here. While any sealant may seem to 'work', not ever material is known to be dimensionally stable on curing, which is a huge concern. The last thing anyone needs is to have some sort of material creep into a crevice and then force it open further. I'm also not convinced that many possible sealers would have the same tendency to penetrate into the stone and cure into a hard layer. Then there's the evidence that, over a very long term, Cashew and Urushi maintain their integrity, feel and look. All of which are important to me. The cost isn't all that high IMO, saving a few pennies pales in comparison to getting the job done the way I want it done.
Yeah, only asking as the mountain stuff is cashew lacquer, but significantly cheaper than the tea dogu stuff. Guess I'll be a Guinea pig.
 
Yeah, only asking as the mountain stuff is cashew lacquer, but significantly cheaper than the tea dogu stuff. Guess I'll be a Guinea pig.

I'm totally new to curing Jnats. However, I may end up buying stones that I'll need to cure myself, and I'd prefer to have what I need on hand before I start shopping. I don't think the cashew lacquer (I keep wanting to type 'liquor') is really all that expensive in relation to what it is supposed to do. I mean, if I'm helping to protect and prolong the life and use of rare and valuable stones such as some of these natural whetstones are, it seems like a paltry sum, especially in the case of a multi-generational stone. I've only found cashew lacquer from Tea Dogu. Are there any other places to buy cashew lacquer online? Where can I find the Washi paper? I found a lot on Amazon but it was the colored papers used for Origami primarily.

(I apologize if these questions were asked and answered already - I used the search function, and found this thread)
 
So how did it work out with the EarthPaint Mountain lacquer? Were you able to finish any stones?

Alx
Hey Alex, I kind of went on a shaving hiatus this year, so I have not tried it out. I've got to go back and read the instructions to see if I can do it in the winter.

I remember a warning about explosive fumes.
 
Hey Alex, I kind of went on a shaving hiatus this year, so I have not tried it out. I've got to go back and read the instructions to see if I can do it in the winter.

I remember a warning about explosive fumes.

Yes, you have to be careful of the fumes, I am permanently light headed since the summer of 67, but my wits told me to build a drying cabinet. Happened to at the same time replace my old stove hood with a fan so I use that to vent to the outside, made sliding doors, and a 75w flood lamp is enough heat to keep the temp up around 80 degrees which is all it takes for varnish or lacquer. For urushi I can add moisture by just a dish of water with the heat source pointed on the dish.

Winter here in Sonoma, rain and temps in the 50s/60s but I found that a solar oven used out doors on a sunny but cool day made with a clear plastic tub and a glass top plus black paper sides inside the tub when set out in the sun can easily bring temps up in the 90s or higher or be regulated by venting the glass cover. This tub oven is small enough to fit into my cabinet too so I can regulate the temperatures indoors to even closer tolerances for small stones or small batches.

proxy.php
 
Last edited:
Pretty sure I got an email from teadogu awhile back saying that they weren't going to be carrying cashew lacquer anymore.
I hope not! I just ordered two tins of clear lacquer from their website. Its still pricey, unfortunately. Does anyone know the reason why cashew lacquer is so difficult to obtain in the United States? Is it a trade issue? Or does the paint and lacquer lobby trying to keep it out? Maybe an EPA issue?
 
I get mine from here, Hyper-Cafe Urushi Nihonto Sword Store.
At the moment they are out of 48 and 51` which is the ones I use but they usually restock fairly quickly.
Thank you Alex! That's a great and less pricey option. I've been checking out stones on eBay and I'm about to pull the trigger on one, but the vendor offers cashew lacquering as a service, but says it will delay my order by at least three days for curing. I'm one of those people, I want to try it once, and see how to do it, then balance the pain-in-the-*** factor with the paying-someone-else factor and go from there. What about going the full monty with the washi paper, is it? Where can one find that? I tried Amazon but found a ton of printed paper that was suitable for origami.
 
Top Bottom