What's new

Problems with a 30's Gillette New Bar Handle

The razor, a 30's NEW Bar Handle is an heirloom for a friend of mine that has been sitting for years. I agreed to clean it up for her. After disassembling, boiling 15 mins and light cleaning with brass polish, the top won't screw back into the handle. If I remove the comb, the top will screw on, but only catches the threads at the end. I've examined the threads and they are not stripped. What am I missing? Was there a threaded insert that may have backed into the razor? It appears the threads are cut into the handle and not an insert, but I'm not sure. There does not appear to be any gap between the inner lip of the handle and where the threads start. Nothing like screwing up an heirloom to ruin one's day. Help!
 
Are you sure that you don't have the comb backwards first? Not trying to be insulting, but this is the only way I can see if no threads appear like they are truly stripped, damaged or missing of this happening. I just tested it on my new long comb with a deluxe bar handle backwards and it only goes on 1/2 a turn, so I could see this being the case.

Will the top by itself screw down flush into the handle? If not, might need to use a tap and do a thread repair. How many threads are on the top? I can count 5 thread grooves on the head I'm using, if somehow the end got cut shorter so there is only two grooves left I can see this being possible.

What makes the most sense is that the threads are stripped in the handle. No worry, although it can be intimidating a good helicoil can restore them.
 
Base plate is right side up. Thinking I'll have to try a helicoil. For now, a few wraps of plumber's tape on the threaded post seems to be doing the trick. Originally thought I may have reduced the size of the post when I buffed, but this seemed unlikely given there's plenty of thread. Threaded a bold onto the post and it fit fine so the problem seems to lie with the threads on the handle. However, they look fine with no stripping. Fortunately, the razor will be used for display, not shaving. The plumber's tape should be sufficient for that.

Regarding the question about boiling...

Boiling a razor for 15 mins with some baking soda works wonders in improving the appearance of old razors while disinfecting. Since the razor had not been used in decades, I'm guessing the threads were already stripped, but were held fast by all the crap that was built up in the handle.
 
Boiled for 15 min?

Base plate is right side up. Thinking I'll have to try a helicoil. For now, a few wraps of plumber's tape on the threaded post seems to be doing the trick. Originally thought I may have reduced the size of the post when I buffed, but this seemed unlikely given there's plenty of thread. Threaded a bold onto the post and it fit fine so the problem seems to lie with the threads on the handle. However, they look fine with no stripping. Fortunately, the razor will be used for display, not shaving. The plumber's tape should be sufficient for that.

Regarding the question about boiling...

Boiling a razor for 15 mins with some baking soda works wonders in improving the appearance of old razors while disinfecting. Since the razor had not been used in decades, I'm guessing the threads were already stripped, but were held fast by all the crap that was built up in the handle.
You may have altered the dimensions/specs of the razor including size, fit, and finish to some extent. Boiling brass for such a long time is not recommended for various reasons. It is better to use Scrubbing bubbles and a toothbrush with hot water and some light metal polish such as MAAS.
 
Alex and Sir...Ok, I need some explanation. The razor appears to be mostly copper, with some brass pieces - comb and top of handle. Many pots are made of copper and are put through repeated heating cycles for decades.

Water boils at a relatively low temp. Much of what I've read indicates that you would have to boil brass for a very long time before changing shape or tolerances.
 
Bringing the metal to temp like that will only slightly alter the size of the threads. When I say slightly, I'm taking MAYBE .002" of an inch. After it cools, it will revert to it's former size. It seems to me that you have a cross threaded handle. Take a flash light and look at the threads inside the handle. By cross threaded, I am referring to a situation in which the threads were not properly aligned and pressure/force was applied make them fit thereby overlapping the existing threads. On softer alloys, it is very common. If this is the case, a tap or die (depending on the situation) will fix it. If it's not that bad, try to start the head on very slowly as straight as you can.
 
Top Bottom