Pleased with my Vulfix 1000A. What am I missing?

[sofauxboho]

I've been wet shaving for a bit over a month. I started with a Tweezerman, which was quickly replaced by a Vulfix 1000A in pure. I've been using the Vulfix with soaps, mainly Arko pressed into a mug. I've been lathering in a Georgetown scuttle. All in all, I like it a great deal.

It seems firm enough to exfoliate and pick up soap, but soft enough to be pleasant to use. I've not really used anything bigger or smaller, but I'm content with the size. It seems to do a fine job of building lather and applying it to my face, and I've gotten superlative shaves with it. (At least compared to my old cartridge & can products.)

And yet, it's retail price of $25 is less than a third the price of most brushes.

What am I missing out on with my 1000A?

Assuming I'd like to try something different just for the sake of expanding my horizons, what would you suggest? I'd rather keep it under $100.

 

[Ignatius]

For Gods sake stick with what you have, don't go down this wormhole!

 

[Antique Hoosier]

I believe you have a fine quality brush as it is. Vulfix makes great brushes! My Vulfix #41 is my favorite hands down. I wouldn't waste the money.

 

[cvac]

I started out with a Vulfix pure badger very similar to that model. It was actually a Col. Conk brush but those are just rebranded Vulfixes. Anyway, if you look closely at the handle, you'll notice it is lightweight injection molded plastic. Most of the more expensive brushes will have lathe turned handles.

More importantly, the difference between the hair on that brush and a nice silvertip can not be overstated. You really won't understand the difference until you try a nicer brush for yourself. After that, the pure badger will probably feel way too prickly and sandpapery for you. At this point, I'd rather use a boar brush than a pure badger, though boar brushes can take a long time to soften up and will be just as prickly for awhile.

A Vulfix pure will build lather just fine, but I've found that the denser knots on more expensive brushes are easier to pick up soap with. The main difference is the softness of the hair on more expensive grades of badger.

 

[AFG]

The 1000A was my first brush. Good brush in many respects. What you will get in a more expensive brush is a handle that is turned on a lathe, not molded. As you go up in price you will get into much softer brushes. The 1000A is a pure badger brush and you will go up in grade of badger to best grade and silvertip etc. depending on what the manufacturer calls it. The 1000A has pretty good density and makes good lather. All the makers offer good brushes under your price point and there's a lot you can learn in the review section. You have to really decide what you want in a brush and then try to find one that matches.

 

[Schwert]

This is a nice path to explore.....enjoy the walk....don't run.

I used an old EverReady boar for decades before I bought my first "decent" brush....there really is no turning back once you start down the path, but I must say the sights are worth it.

I have gone off on a bit of a tangent. I am exploring the world of restorations rather than new brushes offered from the major players. This path is a wee bit less expensive and has the advantage that bits of your own craftsmanship end up in your daily shave routine.

Whatever your next brush is...just be sure it is likely not going to end there