please show me "nice" razor with hone wear

[global_dev]

For those that hone without tape, please show us a picture of that razor with associated hone wear from bevel setting. And by nice, you know what I mean. Thanks

Maybe it will encourage more to forgo tape. Maybe not.

 

[Krodor]

Chuckle. I halfway enjoy setting the bevel on a GD. It isn't a nice razor, but it's fun to get all medieval and wale on the DMT. Lots of hone wear there, but who cares on one of them.

Back to topic, I look forward to the responses, as I only have 1 Nice razor, but it is still in construction mode (planning on taping for first time through the honing sequence).

 

[global_dev]

It occurred to me I had never really seen a fancy razor with hone wear that was done on purpose.

I kind of feel right now that honing without tape on one of those razors is like taking your new car off the lot. I doubt I am alone on that feeling.

 

[Giant Kiwi]

I got a Bismarck with the gold wash just after christmas.
I taped and not ashamed to say so.

 

[global_dev]

I got a Bismarck with the gold wash just after christmas.
I taped and not ashamed to say so.

well, let's see a picture of it!

 

[jpcwon]

Here's my new Dorko 7/8", which I would consider "nice"....No worked spine or anything, but still nice..I honed it without tape & you can see the shiny line where the hone wear is...

 

[Doc226]

If you hone it correctly, the hone wear on the spine is just a shinny/frosted small line.

If you are repairing chips, frowns, etc and you hone without tape the hone wear will be more.

 

[global_dev]

Here's my new Dorko 7/8", which I would consider "nice"....No worked spine or anything, but still nice..I honed it without tape & you can see the shiny line where the hone wear is...

View attachment 304562

that is nice. this was the whole process? 1K included?

 

[global_dev]

If you hone it correctly, the hone wear on the spine is just a shinny/frosted small line.

If you are repairing chips, frowns, etc and you hone without tape the hone wear will be more.

and that make sense as the geometry would fall in line with the reduction in width due to the chips, frown, etc.

I am very familiar with the "line", it's on many of my razors, it's just a mental thing for me.

 

[jpcwon]

that is nice. this was the whole process? 1K included?

Yep..I quickly set the bevel on a 1k Naniwa SS, and did the bulk of honing on my La Dressante coticule. I then finished on a slow vintage coticule..The thing shaves beautifully! That's part of the reason I like coticules so much too, is because the hone wear they impart is not too bad..

 

[Doc226]

Yep..I quickly set the bevel on a 1k Naniwa SS, and did the bulk of honing on my La Dressante coticule. I then finished on a slow vintage coticule..The thing shaves beautifully! That's part of the reason I like coticules so much too, is because the hone wear they impart is not too bad..

Yep, same reason I set bevels on a LARGE (not as large as Gamma's) Botan with botan slurry.

 

[Woodash]

That 856 Dorko is actually closer to 15/16+ and is a very hollow grind. Doesn't take much time on a hone.

 

[jpcwon]

That 856 Dorko is actually closer to 15/16+ and is a very hollow grind. Doesn't take much time on a hone.

+1...VERY hollow...so much so that it "rings" when stropping it!!

 

[global_dev]

That 856 Dorko is actually closer to 15/16+ and is a very hollow grind. Doesn't take much time on a hone.

Anyone with a medium grind?

 

[Woodash]

^ Not sure what you mean. If you're asking if there are other comparable size (>7/8) Dorkos out there w/ stiffer grind, the only one I can think of is the 300. Worked back and still full hollow, but not quite as full. The other 6/8 or 7/8s that I have are still full hollow, but just less flexy because of the blade width, I guess.

 

[global_dev]

Nope, meant any other razor that has hone wear that isn't so hollow.

 

[Kentos]

About hone wear. If you think about it, once the bevel is set you rarely have to drop below, what, 8k to touch up a dull edge? If you keep up on maintanance you might never drop down low and other then chipping it on the faucet or your front teeth it may never go back to a 1k for a reset. So hone wear should be kept to a minimum IMO.

Not really "nice" but...

 

[Proinsias]

I appreciate the ascetic of hone wear. Most of my razors are a little wabi sabi but I think some of the old wedges out there with serious hone wear look great.

For the first pic just pretend I've not forgotten to wipe the black marker pen off the blade:

 

[ouch]

If you keep up on maintanance you might never drop down low and other then chipping it on the faucet or your front teeth

That's one one story I just gotta hear.

 

[Gamma]

In my experience, the type of grind has nothing to do with the time/effort needed to hone the blade.
I've experienced this first-hand; I've honed more than a few of each grind at this point.

Regardless of the grind - the amount of real estate that is actually on the stone will be the same - if all the factors are identical.
If we're comparing a new FH Dovo to a beat-up Wedge that hasn't been honed in 50 yr, hands down the wedge is going to need more work.
If both razors are in identical condition with edges/bevels in the same state/condition/dimension - there is no reason for the wedge to need more attention.
If you had an unused Wedge and an unused FH - and each was made of the same exact steel with the same exact HT&T - the time spent on the hones would be identical.

As far as I can tell that the width of each bevel, the existing state of the edges/bevels, and the steel's hardness are the deciding factors in what level of work has to be done.

FWIW - I have a few 15/16 Dorkos that are no easier or harder to hone than blades that have different grinds.