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NYT No Poo Review: Cleansing Conditioners is the New Route to the Original You

The product strategy switcheroo: buy our new new cleansing conditioners, instead of that old stripping, detergenty shampoo. Better, but still just another product shill.

How bout buy no processed products?

Anyway, cleansing conditioners is better, if you can make the transition, which takes time and experimentation.


http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/01/fashion/no-shampoo-regimens-replace-the-suds.html

No-Shampoo Regimens Replace the Suds

Michael Gordon, the founder and former president of Bumble and bumble, will tell you that for many people, freshly washed hair is, in simple terms, “not cool.”
“When you see a picture of someone looking good now, like the most recent Gucci ads, they are girls whose hair looks beautiful but not done-done,” he said. “It’s a languid, sexy look.”
He added, “We made God knows how many products at Bumble that took away the just-washed look.”
Mr. Gordon, now the founder of the creative studio Hairstory, is an advocate for a no-shampoo regimen. Last year, he introduced the Purely Perfect line of hair care products. Its detergent-free Cleansing Creme uses aloe vera extract and essential oils to clean hair.
“It sounds insane, but you should never use shampoo again,” he said.
The once-odd idea of using cleansing conditioners (they clean but don’t foam) as a substitute for shampoo became increasingly in vogue in the last year.
“It comes out of the new insight that shampooing every day is not for all consumers, especially those with curly, kinky, wavy hair or color-treated or processed hair that might be more susceptible to damage,” said Ron Robinson, an independent cosmetic chemist and founder of beautystat..com. “We’re going to see this category burgeon and grow.”
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From left, Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil Shampoo, Purely Perfect Cleansing Creme and L’Oréal Evercreme cleansing conditioner.The beauty industry is on board. Shu Uemura, Kérastase, L’Oréal, Pantene and Carol’s Daughter all produce “co-washing” products.
“It’s a niche concept, but it’s growing very rapidly,” said Jennifer DiSomma, assistant vice president for new product development at L’Oréal Paris.
Certainly there is a trendy disdain for surfactants, the “surface-active agents” responsible for shampoo’s cleaning action and lathering properties, and detergents. Though they provide a squeaky-clean feeling, they can leave hair feeling dried out. But forgoing shampoo in this sweaty SoulCycle era is simply not an option.
Mr. Gordon likens giving up traditional shampoo to going gluten-free, a regimen he adopted 15 years ago. “Every Sunday you can’t have brunch and eat bread,” he said.
Other proponents are more permissive, but co-washing is not without naysayers.
“There is likely a balance between the two approaches,” said Dr. Jessica Weiser, a dermatologist at the New York Dermatology Group in the Flatiron district. Excessive shampooing can deplete the natural oils that protect the hair’s cuticle, but in co-washing alone, she said, “styling products are inadequately removed.”
Co-washing has roots in the curly hair and natural hair communities.DevaCurl No-Poo was an early product marketed as a shampoo-free way to clean hair. Another was from Miss Jessie’s, which has both a co-wash and a lathering shampoo in its line.
“When the hair has texture, it tends to be much drier, and detergents tend to make it even more dry,” said Miko Branch, a founder and the chief executive of Miss Jessie’s. “There’s no such thing as too much conditioning for curly or wavy or kinky hair.” She co-washes her hair during the week and shampoos on weekends.
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While co-washing adherents credit their routine with giving them more shine, volume and manageability, they grant that there is a learning curve involved.
Zooey Purdy, a product manager at the Refinery29 website, has a two-product approach. First she uses Aussie 3 Minute Deep Conditioner. “I really scrub my scalp,” she said. “You have to use it the same way you would a shampoo. It just won’t foam up.” After rinsing, she applies DevaCurl One Condition.
Jessica Richards, who owns Shen Beauty in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, has sold Purely Perfect since it was introduced. “I totally get the concept that you don’t need a conditioner to fix what your shampoo just did,” she said. Ms. Richards uses it regularly, but still shampoos her thin, straight hair occasionally. She uses a generous amount and really scrubs her scalp (“which is good and you should be doing anyway,” she said) and then rinses thoroughly.
“I loved it the most over the summer, to get the salt water out after the beach,” she said. “That’s how I sell it to people: Make it the only thing you bring on vacation because you have to give it a shot.”
Expect a certain acclimation period, said Kate Hanley, a stylist at Headdress Hair Salon in the East Village. “People will start washing with conditioner and find that their hair feels oily after a week or two,” she said. “If you can push through that week or so when it feels greasy, your hair returns to a more natural state, like a child’s hair.”
But mere promises of perfect hair aren’t enough for everyone. Ms. Hanley used Purely Perfect on a client who was dismayed that it didn’t lather and asked to have her hair washed again with regular shampoo. “It really freaks some people out,” she said.
 
I don't buy it either. I looked at the L'oreal product on their site. Just reading the ingredient list will make your head hurt. Funny thing about all this detergent and shampoo stuff. Detergents have taken a beating the last decade or so. All the fuss about SLS and whatnot. What most people don't realise and I certainly did not til a few years ago is that no detergent lathers. It needs a latheriser or foaming agent added to it. This was evidently a problem when they first arrived on the scene. The products did not lather like soap so people thought they didn't clean. Manufacturers added foaming agents and voila, it now 'worked'. I have seen a lot of recent speculation it is the foaming agents that cause all the dry scalp and itchiness issues. To me these conditioning cleansers are kind of weird. We'll see. So far I have found that using old fashioned hand made shampoo bars from Queen Charlotte and QEDusa have worked best. Along with traditional style hair dressings. As long as I go easy on the mineral oil and stick with more beeswax, lanolin, and other natural oils and waxes.
 
Funny, I just started switching the order of application, because (1) conditioner is like Cetaphil and (2) I really like the way Keratin shampoo conditions my curly hair. With a finishing dab of creme and tonic, it's analogous to a shaving routine. But I stopped daily hair washing a year ago, anyway.
 
+1
Personally I'm using either castile soap or very simple, natural high-fat soaps and shampoo bars these days to wash. A few days a week I shampoo with water alone, and rub my scalp and hair with a little unpasteurized apple cider vinegar once or twice a week -- keeps the flora and pH balanced.

I don't buy it either. I looked at the L'oreal product on their site. Just reading the ingredient list will make your head hurt. Funny thing about all this detergent and shampoo stuff. Detergents have taken a beating the last decade or so. All the fuss about SLS and whatnot. What most people don't realise and I certainly did not til a few years ago is that no detergent lathers. It needs a latheriser or foaming agent added to it. This was evidently a problem when they first arrived on the scene. The products did not lather like soap so people thought they didn't clean. Manufacturers added foaming agents and voila, it now 'worked'. I have seen a lot of recent speculation it is the foaming agents that cause all the dry scalp and itchiness issues. To me these conditioning cleansers are kind of weird. We'll see. So far I have found that using old fashioned hand made shampoo bars from Queen Charlotte and QEDusa have worked best. Along with traditional style hair dressings. As long as I go easy on the mineral oil and stick with more beeswax, lanolin, and other natural oils and waxes.
 
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