Newbie Needs Safety Razor Help!

[jbgonzo]

Hello everyone,
I am new to B&B so excuse my terminology if it is far from the usual "barber lingo". I recently have done lots of research about what type of safety razor to purchase, and after lots and lots of searching (mostly info. from this site) I decided to purchase the Edwin Jager DE89. It is a nice razor and gives me a decent shave, but not as close as I would like. I have purchased a sampler pack with loads of blades and given a few a try. I started with the mild blades, derby, and found that it tugged and actually made loads of nicks and redness. Not a very good shave! It at best gave me a 2 day stubble look. Then I tried the other end of the spectrum about 4 days after my first shave to give myself time to heal. The feather resulted in no nicks, a better shave, but still at the point of about a one day stubble. I have tried the gillette 7 o' clock, and the bic blades as well. BIC so far is my favorite in terms of the shave, but still cannot get anything better than a small amount of stubble. I mean is it actually possible to reduce my hairs to BBS without going ATG? I have tried doing two WTG, and one XTG (across the grain), but stop there because I have sensitive skin and don't want to create irritation by going crazy to try and get smooth. What I am thinking is that the EJ is just too mild for me, or what's the deal here? I do shave my cheeks everyday approx. 18 shaves total aready, so I think my angle isn't out of whack if that's what your thinking.

*Side Note: If you shave your cheeks and they feel flushed throughout the day is the blade too sharp??*

In advance thank you!

 

[packtray]

What are you using for soap? That might help us figure it out.

 

[Jeff_H]

The EJ is a mild razor, but is certainly capable of giving a BBS shave, but not without going against the grain I think. At least it isn't for me. However, going against the grain is not as scary as you might think. You just have to be confident in your angle and stroke, and also have a blade that is sharp and smooth enough.

I shaved for over a year with nothing but the Bic Chrome Platinum. It is a fantastic blade and is certainly capable of giving you a BBS shave. I found the Bic very early on, about where you are at and it really helped to improve my shaves. I think you just need to try a couple of against the grain strokes. Try them first on your cheeks, underneath where your sideburns would be. For me, this isn't a really sensitive area and it's a good place to test your angle and stroke.

Once you get the hang of it, just go slow and light. I think you will do fine. However, a good slick lather is required to achieve all of this. So, tell us what you're using and maybe we can give you some suggestions. For me, Proraso Red was the only shave creme I used while going through my 100 Bics. Same razor, same blade, same soap....for almost 2 years. It really helped me get my technique down and build my skill.

 

[Cumberland Sausage]

I'd give things a bit of time, and stop changing what you use. Keep working on your technique and the results will get better. I guess most people are the same when they start DE shaving -- they follow the modern way of thinking, fostered by advertsing, that "better" gear will solve any problem, but it ain't so. Shaving is not that complicated, but it does take a bit of work to get it right. The EJ89 isn't what I'd call a mild razor, so I suspect that isn't the problem.

 

[Aimless1]

Tough beard and semi-sensitive skin here. The EJ DE89 consistently gives me a DFS and the occasional BBS. Technique matters and takes time. However, a light touch and three passes is what it takes to get me there.

 

[briggs]

If you are tempted to go ATG, I would suggest doing it on a second pass, after going WTG. Re-lather before the second pass.

I find the sharp blades less irritating. They also work better for me in a milder razor. If you can pick up a decent Gillette Slim Adjustable for a reasonable price (not easy these days) on ebay you could buy yourself some flexibility. At this point I wouldn't go for a cosmetically perfect Slim. Settle for one that should work well and use it to learn.

From the way you describe your beard, you might want to consider trying Polsilver Super Iridium blades. They impress me as a strong, sharp, smooth blade. Others might want to comment.

 

[packtray]

Heck, a Tech is much easier and cheaper to get, and is quite forgiving.

 

[pdxshaver]

One razor and one blade is what I would concentrate on.
Once you feel comfortable with it
You can increase pressure and dial back pressure as needed that helped me figure out angles and
"Direction of attack" ATG passes are needed for me to get closer lately my routine is WTG, XTG, then finally minimally ATG.

 

[aihpcfl]

The EJ is a mild razor, but is certainly capable of giving a BBS shave, but not without going against the grain I think. At least it isn't for me. However, going against the grain is not as scary as you might think. You just have to be confident in your angle and stroke, and also have a blade that is sharp and smooth enough.

I shaved for over a year with nothing but the Bic Chrome Platinum. It is a fantastic blade and is certainly capable of giving you a BBS shave. I found the Bic very early on, about where you are at and it really helped to improve my shaves. I think you just need to try a couple of against the grain strokes. Try them first on your cheeks, underneath where your sideburns would be. For me, this isn't a really sensitive area and it's a good place to test your angle and stroke.

Once you get the hang of it, just go slow and light. I think you will do fine. However, a good slick lather is required to achieve all of this. So, tell us what you're using and maybe we can give you some suggestions. For me, Proraso Red was the only shave creme I used while going through my 100 Bics. Same razor, same blade, same soap....for almost 2 years. It really helped me get my technique down and build my skill.

+1

Edwin Jagger razors may be on the mild side of the spectrum, but they aren't the mildest, and at any rate, a close shave is possible even with a mild razor. But you do have to go against the grain to get as close as possible.

 

[briggs]

Heck, a Tech is much easier and cheaper to get, and is quite forgiving.

I use a Slim and Techs, and shop for a few Techs I don't have. I don't find the prices much different than the Slims. I thought this particular shaver might learn more about combinations of blades and razor aggressiveness with an adjustable razor. Hence my recommendation of a Slim.

For many noobies, I recommend a Tech. They are my favorite razors, but not always my best shavers.

 

[packtray]

I think Slims are awesome, too, but I find myself worrying about settings vice technique at times.

 

[rocky555]

I couldn't get BBS with EJ89 without going ATG.
You will need to try more aggressive shaver like Muhle R41 or maybe some slant.

 

[trza]

How new are you to DE shaving? I've been at it a month, and must admit that the shaves keep getting better. This is with a relativel mild superspeed. You might just need more practice with consistent blade angle.

Beard mapping helps a lot. Understand the direction your beard grows, and how to shave that region. I pretty much have the chin and cheeks down, but my neck seems to be a mess of every direction at once. This is where I really focus my time now.

If you can't do blade buffing or j-hooks (?), those are two techniques that can really help.

Pre-shave means a lot, too. If I go with a shower or hot face wash, I do a lot better. A hot water splash is going to get me a shave on par with a cartridge.

And as you've seen, blades make a big difference. So far my fav is the Gillette Silver Blue, but if I'm not careful I'm getting weepers and burn. I can't wait to get some more practice so that I can come back to them for another try. Derby Extras aren't going to win any closeness awards, but it's darn near impossible for me to hurt myself. They are perfect when I'm tired or want to practice some blading. And I can't really get Wilkinson Swords to cut. They just want to ride on top of the stubble.

Post shave also helps with the irritation. I went from Nivea Sensitive balm to the alum block and then a self-made splash of alcohol free witch hazel, tea tree, and glycerin. Each step gives me a little shock, and post-splash my face feels awesome as the liquid evaporates. Razor burn is very quickly forgotten.

ATG really gets me in trouble....especially on the neck. I think it's a combination of poor technique and sensitive skin. Blade choice might have something to do with it, but I'm waiting to develop better technique before I give it another run. I've found my best shave is WTG, XTG (Ear to Nose), and XTG the other way using the "Gillette Slide" in an ATG direction. I haven't hit BBS all around yet, but DFS is very possible.

 

[jbgonzo]

What are you using for soap? That might help us figure it out.

I am using a cream, don't know if that matters, and its the AOS (art of shaving) sensitive.

The EJ is a mild razor, but is certainly capable of giving a BBS shave, but not without going against the grain I think. At least it isn't for me. However, going against the grain is not as scary as you might think. You just have to be confident in your angle and stroke, and also have a blade that is sharp and smooth enough.

I shaved for over a year with nothing but the Bic Chrome Platinum. It is a fantastic blade and is certainly capable of giving you a BBS shave. I found the Bic very early on, about where you are at and it really helped to improve my shaves. I think you just need to try a couple of against the grain strokes. Try them first on your cheeks, underneath where your sideburns would be. For me, this isn't a really sensitive area and it's a good place to test your angle and stroke.

Once you get the hang of it, just go slow and light. I think you will do fine. However, a good slick lather is required to achieve all of this. So, tell us what you're using and maybe we can give you some suggestions. For me, Proraso Red was the only shave creme I used while going through my 100 Bics. Same razor, same blade, same soap....for almost 2 years. It really helped me get my technique down and build my skill.

That's good to hear gives me some motivation to continue my journey with the EJ. Thank you!


Thank you everyone for the vast responses. I am sorry it took so long for a response as I was expecting replies to go to my email which is attached to phone, guess not lol. I think I have a good shave prep as I shower, use a scrub in the shower, use a pre shave oil, then the shaving cream, then hit the shave, then do a witch hazel and aloe vera post shave astringent, and finally finish with an aftershave balm. I tend to avoid the alum block that I used to use after each shave because I feel that it might be creating irritation? Burns like heck and the biggest benefits are just closing pores and stopping bleeding, correct? If that's the case might just keep using the astringent to close up the pores since it doesn't burn at all. Reason I am very cautious about going to ATG is that my hairs on my neck grow very close to the skin on the sides, growth is sideways not down, and I have an issue with getting ingrowns. Any recommendations on a good product to help with ingrowns?

Again, thank you guys for the responses! I appreciate you all taking the time to respond!

-Jason

 

[jbgonzo]

Not too familiar with the "j-hooking" term. Is this literally just making a stroke in the form of a J? If so that would be very helpful with the way the hair grows on my neck. Looks like a weather pattern when I map it out haha!

 

[rocky555]

I tend to avoid the alum block that I used to use after each shave because I feel that it might be creating irritation? Burns like heck and the biggest benefits are just closing pores and stopping bleeding, correct?

I use alum. After shaving, I apply alum and if my shave was ok, then it doesn't burn at all. Good indicator of my shave quality.
And after few minutes I wash it from my face.

You can try another thing - shaving with cold water.
Effect on my skin is MUCH better than with warm water.

 

[briggs]

I am puzzled that anyone would use alum. If you are damaging your face, you are doing something wrong, and should try to solve the problem, not treat the results. If you are not damaging your face, why would you need or want it?

 

[Jeff_H]

If I understand correctly, alum simply acts as an antiseptic and does have some healing power as well. Anytime you shave, even if you shave with perfect technique, you are scraping a layer of skin off your face. It's prudent to use something to help that heal and to help the skin stay healthy. Same reason people use aftershave balm, lotion, cream. It's healthy for the skin and protects that new top layer while it heals itself.

 

[briggs]

Seems reasonable.Thanks!

 

[oldbluelight]

*Side Note: If you shave your cheeks and they feel flushed throughout the day is the blade too sharp??*

In advance thank you! [/QUOTE]

That sure sounds like you're getting quite a bit of irritation. If your technique is solid there's no such thing as a too sharp blade. You've gotten good advice so far on the elements of technique. The first thing to master is a comfortable, non-irritating shave and if that confines you for a while to a level below BBS so be it. Until your technique is solid you won't be able to repeat a BBS shave even if you achieve it. You've got an excellent razor in the EJ 89DE and if you will pair it up with a good soap and a decent blade you will soon master it to the point it will give you very comfortable close shaves. Don't trap yourself in an expensive and futile quest to buy skill. It can only be mastered, not purchased.