What's new

New Suits And Care

I just finished my first year in my new position and with my year end bonus decided to splurge and buy a new suit. My company is full time business casual with jeans on Friday's, but since I started I've always worn nice slacks, dress shirts and sport coat's. I found an Italian pant maker I like (Chiari), made with super 120's wool, so I've built up to 8 pair over the past 2 years, plus some lesser slacks and 3 nice sport coat's, but I digress.

My dad was getting married in February and my one remaining suit just didn't look good enough, so it was perfect timing. I ended up with 2 Daniel Cremiux Signature suits, story to follow. I started at Nordstrom, but didn't like their selection in the $600-$800 range and the much nicer ones were out of my price range. Off to Dillard's and was impressed with their selection and prices. I was also helped by the best suit salesman I have ever had. Most suit salesmen make me walk the other way, but not this guy. Really helpful, knowledgeable and not pushy. I told him what I was looking for (Navy) and what I wanted to spend ($800 top end). He showed me some things but nothing really clicked. Then he asked if he could show me something just outside my price range. He did and I fell in love. A black suit with that nice sheen, but not shiny. Black on black pinstripe (very subtle stripe), Cremiux Signature. Normally $1595 on sale for $900. I bought it, along with a Hickey Freeman in taupe that was on the clearance rack. $1295 marked down to $850, marked down to $425 and 50% off that. Too good to pass up. I still really wanted a navy suit, but they had nothing I liked.

The next day we were at a different mall looking for something for the wife. I wandered into Dillard's and went to the suit section to browse. Low and behold, a Navy pinstripe that I loved, in my size, same deal as my black suit. I was torn because it was above the limit I had set for myself, but my wife insisted. I returned the taupe and bought the navy. Me wife wanted me to keep the taupe too, but I couldn't reconcile it in my gut. I was already way over my limit.

On to my question(s). So, now I have two really nice suits, and I want to care for them properly. I know not to dry clean them unless they get soiled. I do the same with my nice slacks. I take them in for a press only when the sharpness on the creases starts to fade, and I hang them from the cuffs. I use a clothes brush on my slacks after each wearing. I also know to ask the cleaners to roll press the lapels of my jackets as opposed to flat press (are those the right terms?). I have seen some of you talk about having your nice suits "steamed" when you take them in. Is steaming different than just having them "pressed only"? Is there anything else I need to know?

Thanks in advance for any advice and thanks for reading. I can't seem to tell a short story. Now I'm off to practice my pocket square folding, I bought 5 to get started. That's another thread. :tongue_sm
 
Last edited:
I don't have super-nice suits but I am frugal. Based on browsing the Haberdashery and other clothing forums (Ask Andy About Clothes, Dappered, etc) it seems that using a clothes brush on your suit is all you "need" to do to keep your suit nice and clean, except when there is a stain or some other specific soiling.

Living in New England I get mine dry-cleaned once a year in spring to get all the salt stains out. But if I lived somewhere where it doesn't snow, I don't think I would need to at all.

I don't worry too much about keeping the crease on my pants. But I think it's because I use the "Saville Row fold" on the hanger and maybe that keeps the crease?
 
Steamed & sponged is the preferred way to clean a suit but you may have an issue finding a laundry to do the sponge part. You are in good shape as you know to use a brush & never dry clean unless you get a stain.
 
Look for a good local tailor who can properly press and sponge. Like grayson says it's almost impossible to get a cleaner to do it right.
 
OK, so I take it that most cleaners will not be able to just "steam" a suit, correct? I guess I really don't understand what that entails.

I thought I would check with some of the higher end cleaners. I do live in the 10th largest city in the US, we should have SOME higher end amenities. I will check with some of the tailors my salesman at Dillards recommended about pressing and sponging. I need to get some specific tailoring done that Dillards will not do, but I am picky so it's ok. Ohh, I just remembered there is a place right by my house that does nothing but pressing. You bring in your clean clothes and they press them. I need to see if they can press and sponge.

I am going to invest in a good steamer. One with a crease tool, large tank and one that heats up quickly. I am very picky about my trouser creases and they have to be sharp. Hanging by their cuffs helps tremendously, but I often touch them up the night before or the morning of my wearing, be it slacks or suit.
 
Seriously trying to learn how to sponge and touch up my suits using a press cloth and ironing arm. I read a thread on ask Andy about steam being bad for suits.
 
Graham, is there a cleaners in va beach that does sponge and press?

Is there a way to sponge and steam your suit at home?

No, unfortunately. I can sometimes talk the local menswear place to do it for a fee though, they have some tailors on staff.

I personally wouldn't steam my suits (as in hang and use steamer), I have posted some pictures before on here of what can happen, but I have enough skill to be able to touch up press most worsteds. Takes a sleeve board, some towels and a good steam iron. You can practice on something old and cheap.

Good instructional video here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fJ7UkWnfHk

Sponging is just dabbing a little water on the offending area with cotton and lightly brushing with the fabric direction. You can start very light and work your way up. Again, just take something old and practice until you are comfortable.
 
I am actually very good at pressing, but I was told continually using an iron, even on a cooler setting, would eventually make the area's of my suit I iron most "shiny". I guess I could lay a thin towel over the seams as I press. I just want to really take care of these suits and keep them looking nice. I have to touch up the creases often enough that I just want to do it the right way.
 
I would use a clothes brush on the suit and try spot cleaning any small stains. If the suit smells, hang it outside (obviously make sure it will not rain) or in a well-ventilated room. Only dry clean your suit when it is stained. Dry cleaning, like washing, ruins clothes.
 
I am actually very good at pressing, but I was told continually using an iron, even on a cooler setting, would eventually make the area's of my suit I iron most "shiny". I guess I could lay a thin towel over the seams as I press. I just want to really take care of these suits and keep them looking nice. I have to touch up the creases often enough that I just want to do it the right way.

Anything navy you absolutely need a press cloth. It's generally a good idea anyway.
 
No, unfortunately. I can sometimes talk the local menswear place to do it for a fee though, they have some tailors on staff.

I personally wouldn't steam my suits (as in hang and use steamer), I have posted some pictures before on here of what can happen, but I have enough skill to be able to touch up press most worsteds. Takes a sleeve board, some towels and a good steam iron. You can practice on something old and cheap.

Good instructional video here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fJ7UkWnfHk

Sponging is just dabbing a little water on the offending area with cotton and lightly brushing with the fabric direction. You can start very light and work your way up. Again, just take something old and practice until you are comfortable.

I can't believe he's not using a press cloth.
 
I am actually very good at pressing, but I was told continually using an iron, even on a cooler setting, would eventually make the area's of my suit I iron most "shiny". I guess I could lay a thin towel over the seams as I press. I just want to really take care of these suits and keep them looking nice. I have to touch up the creases often enough that I just want to do it the right way.

What iron setting do you use when pressing a suit? Is there a wool setting on your iron?

This sleeve board looks pretty good - http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/174/Sleeve-Board/
 
Anything navy you absolutely need a press cloth. It's generally a good idea anyway.

+1

I regularly brush my suits to remove dust. The trousers are regularly (though softly) ironed to keep the crease and remove those strategic wrinkles that come from being seated all day long (the horror...) and they are sent for dry cleaning just once every year (or even every two years, depending on the condition of the suit). They look good and "last" for years...
 
Last edited:
I always buy a decent iron and do have a wool setting, which I always use. I am going to search my hand towels and kitchen towels to see if I can find one suitable enough for conscription to press towel duty. If not I will go out on search of one.
 
OK, so I take it that most cleaners will not be able to just "steam" a suit, correct? I guess I really don't understand what that entails.

I think bringing your suit to a cleaner to "steam" it means that it will be steam-cleaned as opposed to dry-cleaning.

I am going to invest in a good steamer. One with a crease tool, large tank and one that heats up quickly. I am very picky about my trouser creases and they have to be sharp. Hanging by their cuffs helps tremendously, but I often touch them up the night before or the morning of my wearing, be it slacks or suit.

Steaming a suit at home just takes out the wrinkles. It relaxes the fibers. If you want a cheap way to do it, you could try hanging it in the bathroom while you take a shower.
 
Top Bottom