new one

[Hunter Bock]

I recently ran across a reference to touch up bevel setting -- new one for me. Is there such a thing as light bevel setting? My understanding and practice has always been the all-or-none concept: a razor needs to have the bevel set or it doesn't.

Over to the forum masters.

 

[C FrankC]

Not familiar w/ the term but I do recognize the difference between re-setting the bevel on a relatively undamaged edge vs. an edge restoration where there might be significant damage or problems ie. chips, rust, bad steel, geometry problems, improper previous honing etc. All of which take more than a simple re-set on a 2>3K stone.
I agree a bevel is either set or not, just depends on how much work it takes to get there. Just my take on it.

 

[Steve56]

Most people’s normal bevel setter is a 1k stone. Once the bevel is set, the basic bevel geometry doesn’t change, but over time the edge can become worn, chipped, or mangled from use and small insults so that a finisher won’t quickly restore the cutting edge. In that case I typically use a 4k or 5k stone to refresh the cutting edge, where the bevels meet. Using a midgrit stone to refresh an edge before refinishing it is probably what is being called a light bevel set.

An example is the Filly 14 Sub Cero that I’ve been testing for edge longevity in the ‘How Many Shaves’ thread. It has 150 shaves on it with only stropping, and under a loupe it shows a good bit of wear and tear on the cutting edge. When I refinish the razor, I’ll go back to a 4k Shapton Glass to get the edge straight and even again before refinishing it.

 

[Gamma]

A bevel with only slight curvature and no real damage or major issues will often need much less work than the typical "shave ready" razor from fleabay.
Because some need to over-define stuff, they call it 'bevel-setting light'.
The bevel is set when it's set. If it takes 20 strokes or 200, it's set when it's set.
Tying my shoe is tying my shoe. If the laces are tied but loose, I still need to tie my shoe. I don't call it 'touch up' shoe tying.
Typically, a blade in decent-to-good condition that can be improved with a bit of work on a stone north of 1k but south of 8k falls in this category.
Personally, I just use the 1k - I'd rather do 10 passes on a 1k than 30 on a 4k... it's not a big deal and there is no more loss of steel that way because the bevel is set when it's set, it doesn't care what stone it is on.

 

[SliceOfLife]

People theorize way too much about sharpening. Learn to sharpen tools and it will become an almost mindless process, razors are just tools that need to be really sharp.

Is a 1k better or a 2k, do I need 50 or 100 passes, should I bread knife it on glass or a stone... these are all like going up to a house painter and asking him if you should use a wooden or plastic mixing rod. You’re not gonna get a question answered and suddenly be able to slap a perfect coat of paint on your house. Changing your tools or how you hold a brush or the brand of paint you use isn’t addressing why you don’t know how to paint. You need to paint to learn how to paint.


I find it interesting that most of these guys coming up with methods on how to sharpen some thing without having to actually practice and learn how to sharpen something are guys who get paid to sharpen stuff. If I were looking for a shortcut on how to keep a razor sharp I’d ask the guy selling a razor he claims never gets dull. He is a guy who doesn’t want you to need him to sharpen something.