Need to rethink the Pass 3 idea?

[OkieStubble]

I used to do a conventional three-pass shave, but this ^^^ is very similar to what I do now. Just as effective for me and a lot more comfortable as well. Am I getting BBS shaves? Don't know, don't really care.

I'm with ya. My opinion on BBS is, in order to achieve this mythical shave, one would have to shave "down into the pores and follicles below the skin, in order to be able to rub your hand against your face after the shave and not feel any type of stubble?

Since the skin is elastic and will flex and push down when rubbing your hand over your face, unless you have very fine hair for whiskers residing in those pores and follicles below the surface, you will feel some type of sensation of stubble on your hands.

Whwn I began this old skool' way of shaving a decade ago, I attempted finding this legendary, mythical BBS shave. I probably could have said I had BBS, but did I ever really, honestly achieve finding it? No. It would be easier to find the Lost Fountain of Youth. Did I ever, totally inflame and shave my skin raw searching for it? Too many times to count.

Over the years, I shave and have mastered my shaves with Vintage and Modern DE's, SE's, Injectors, Straights and Shavette's. Imo, there is Socially Acceptable Shaves and Damn Fine Shaves.

No such thing, as BBS...

 

[Shavely Manden]

Over the years, I shave and have mastered my shaves with Vintage and Modern DE's, SE's, Injectors, Straights and Shavette's. Imo, there is Socially Acceptable Shaves and Damn Fine Shaves.

No such thing, as BBS...

I think it depends, honestly. Back when I started wetshaving, I'd sometimes do a particularly long & careful shave that would result in what I'd call BBS...or at the very least, smooth enough to get dates to rub my face and go "wow". I remember one particularly indulgent 7-pass shave that resulted in a shave that still felt smooth twelve hours later. At this point, it's been years since I've done that kind of shave...nowadays I'd prefer to get a DFS and zero irritation than super-smooth and risk irritating my face. But that kind of jaw-dropping smoothness is possible, at least with the beard and skin I had back then...I suspect my beard has gotten coarser in the decade+ since I started, so I might not be capable of that anymore.

Not that I'm saying chasing BBS is a good idea, but I do think it's possible, even if it might risks irritating the hell out of your face.

 

[dmshaver]

I get stellar shaves with two passes. I use short overlapping strokes on both passes. And there’s plenty of skin stretching go on, as well. I’m quite happy with my results.

 

[McBlade]

No such thing, as BBS...

The ability to do BBS is what instantly won me over to wet shaving after years of electric razors. I couldn't believe it. Previously, all I could achieve was reducing down from coarse sandpaper to a finer sandpaper.

I think good prep with hot water might help to raise the hairs out of their follicles a little giving a closer shave?

Most of my shaves are just a single WTG pass, maybe a second XTG if I'm using a DE, but if I've got an early start in the morning a BBS shave the night before will easily see me through the next day.

 

[Shaveprentice]

I almost always do a two pass shave - WTG and XTG along with some multi directional touch ups. I find this consistently delivers super comfortable results for me. I also almost always shave every 48 hours. Even though going for BBS is awesome, I tend to feel a little irritation afterwards which to me just isn't worth it.

 

[RenoRichard]

In the beginning, over 50 years ago when I first "learned" to shave with canned foam, a Gillette razor, and whatever DE blades came home from the grocery store, it was one-pass, with irritation and nicks galore. And, inevitably the nicks coincided with where the collars of my required daily dress shirts touched me.

Many years later, after actually learning to shave properly, it's usually a two-pass, plus clean up. But, whenever I try new shaving gear it's three passes, plus clean up. The third pass lets me know whether whatever I'm testing out, be it soap, cream, brush, holder, blade or aftershave, is truly effective. Yes, an occasional cut, weeper, or ingrown happens. This routine allows me to achieve wonderful daily shaves and some superb ones. Plus, I know when I add things to the rotation they are worthy.

 

[sternej]

I shave every day. I cut out the third pass a while ago

 

[vegrat]

whatever works for you sir, there is no "one and only way" as everybody has very different stubble density/patterns etc. I would experiment with a single approach for a while (a month) than try a different one and see what works best. the worst thing one can do is change the process to often and not be able to draw any conclusions as a consequence.

 

[OkieStubble]

The ability to do BBS is what instantly won me over to wet shaving after years of electric razors. I couldn't believe it. Previously, all I could achieve was reducing down from coarse sandpaper to a finer sandpaper.

I think good prep with hot water might help to raise the hairs out of their follicles a little giving a closer shave?

Most of my shaves are just a single WTG pass, maybe a second XTG if I'm using a DE, but if I've got an early start in the morning a BBS shave the night before will easily see me through the next day.

No such thing as BBS is just my conclusion from my own personal experience, for me only. It holds no bearing on anyone else’s conclusions or experiences unless they agree with me because theirs happens to relate or match mine.

In saying this, I also realize, the definition of “BBS” can mean different things to different people.

For me, the definition of BBS is to be able to rub my hand across my face and neck in every direction and not be able to feel any hair or stubble above the surface of my skin or below the surface in the pores or follicles.

I have a course thick beard. It isn’t possible to shave below the surface of my skin. So, I can simply feel stubble below the surface of my skin when I rub my face against the grain.

I take the definition literally. For me, Baby Butt Smooth is a myth. I get damn fine shaves which are really smooth. But babies butt? Really? A grown man? With a tough beard? Can rub his hand against the grain of his face? And not feel any? Not a single rough patch of stubble below the surface? It is literally, “smooth as a babies butt?”

I literally don’t believe it is possible.

 

[Ravenonrock]

No such thing as BBS is just my conclusion from my own personal experience, for me only. It holds no bearing on anyone else’s conclusions or experiences unless they agree with me because theirs happens to relate or match mine.

In saying this, I also realize, the definition of “BBS” can mean different things to different people.

For me, the definition of BBS is to be able to rub my hand across my face and neck in every direction and not be able to feel any hair or stubble above the surface of my skin or below the surface in the pores or follicles.

I have a course thick beard. It isn’t possible to shave below the surface of my skin. So, I can simply feel stubble below the surface of my skin when I rub my face against the grain.

I take the definition literally. For me, Baby Butt Smooth is a myth. I get damn fine shaves which are really smooth. But babies butt? Really? A grown man? With a tough beard? Can rub his hand against the grain of his face? And not feel any? Not a single rough patch of stubble below the surface? It is literally, “smooth as a babies butt?”

I literally don’t believe it is possible.

+1 I don’t get the BBS thing because I’ve never experienced it. I get close comfortable shaves in two passes. I guess other folks who feel they get BBS prefer that feeling and chase it. I’m satisfied with my results based on my skin and beard type. There’s always something there for me even after the closest shave. I say shave how you like, whatever feels right.

 

[Dovo1695]

I nicked myself twice this morning. Once on the left cheek during the second pass, once under my chin on the cleanup pass, which I admit was pretty unnecessary. I've used the same gear often before: my Red Tip with a nearly-new Personna blade, Trumper's Almond cream, washed my face thoroughly in the shower, used baking soda in the sink water for extra slipperiness, etc. Still I got myself twice. Neither was bad, and the styptic pencil and Clubman powder did for them. But --

-- maybe I should cut back to at most 2 full passes on a 48-hour beard, or 1 on cheeks/2 on throat for a 24-hour growth, during the week, and save the big 3-pass shave for Saturdays? I'm not trying for BBS, I'm just seeing how close I can shave while still being comfortable and undamaged. Nobody at work or at home is checking my face for super smoothness, and my bristles are fairly light-colored too, so I won't look homeless if I settle for a 2-pass shave during the work week.

Thoughts?

Have you ever tried doing a single WTG pass every day? It's super comfy and your "average" beard length is actually better than hitting BBS every 48hrs.

 

[Benzadmiral]

Have you ever tried doing a single WTG pass every day? It's super comfy and your "average" beard length is actually better than hitting BBS every 48hrs.

I could try that. But then it might seem more like a chore than something to look forward to!

 

[Ivan_Leonidov]

I have taken a different approach. I have a coarse beard and very sensitive skin. I have found that I can get a near BBS shave with zero irritation by doing a four-pass shave. Each pass is aimed at beard reduction. I do WTG, XTG, ATG and then a clean-up pass. I used to shave every 34-36 hours, but if I have no plans to leave the house, I have extended that to 36-48 hours.

One thing I do that is unusual is use a different combination of razor and blade for each pass. I use an open comb razor with a moderately sharp blade for the first pass to mow down most of the stubble, especially if I have not shaved in 48 hours. Then for the next two passes I use moderately aggressive closed comb razors with somewhat sharper blades for the XTG and ATG passes. Then I use a super sharp blade in a very mild razor for the clean-up pass. That sequence allows me to use very light pressure, thus minimizing the irritation to my face.

I concur with the gentleman above, I have similar feedback with similar sensitive skin and tough beard combo.

For me is related a lot with the efficiency of the razor (understandably): R41 > 3passes to bbs. Something milder, let's say GC .84 is a 4 pass to bbs. If I skip a second XTG I get nicked, no two ways around it.

With no real method or research, my conclusions for my case are that by having the hair grow very flat against the skin, if I don't trim them as close as possible the ATG is a massacre since the razor "raises" the hair against the natural growth and pull it rather than cut or makes a nick with the blade vibrations.

In short, I have to cut them enough to make them stand up as much as possible for the ATG.

 

[Whilliam]

It did seem to be an outlier. I usually don't get irritation either, and didn't today.

So just carry on as usual. Sometimes things just happen.

 

[BigJ]

It did seem to be an outlier. I usually don't get irritation either, and didn't today.

Great! Hope things continue to go well with no changes needed!!

 

[DaveHStone]

I nicked myself twice this morning. Once on the left cheek during the second pass, once under my chin on the cleanup pass, which I admit was pretty unnecessary. I've used the same gear often before: my Red Tip with a nearly-new Personna blade, Trumper's Almond cream, washed my face thoroughly in the shower, used baking soda in the sink water for extra slipperiness, etc. Still I got myself twice. Neither was bad, and the styptic pencil and Clubman powder did for them. But --

-- maybe I should cut back to at most 2 full passes on a 48-hour beard, or 1 on cheeks/2 on throat for a 24-hour growth, during the week, and save the big 3-pass shave for Saturdays? I'm not trying for BBS, I'm just seeing how close I can shave while still being comfortable and undamaged. Nobody at work or at home is checking my face for super smoothness, and my bristles are fairly light-colored too, so I won't look homeless if I settle for a 2-pass shave during the work week.

Thoughts?

I think that part of your problem might be taking the extensive shower before the shave.

Hear me out (been there, done that) - a thorough wash of your face in the shower will wash away the natural oils that protect your skin, resulting in an overly supple skin. That's what you don't want. What you do want is soften whiskers, not skin.

So, instead, try hot-towels method or simply lather up your face and let the lather sit on it for 3-5 minutes. It makes ALL the difference.

Then proceed with your regular shaving routine, followed by a warm shower, then cold water rinse.

Ditch the alum if you're using it and only apply A/S, preferably one without or with low %-age of alcohol.

Let us know if it helps!

 

[Benzadmiral]

I think that part of your problem might be taking the extensive shower before the shave.

Hear me out (been there, done that) - a thorough wash of your face in the shower will wash away the natural oils that protect your skin, resulting in an overly supple skin. That's what you don't want. What you do want is soften whiskers, not skin.

So, instead, try hot-towels method or simply lather up your face and let the lather sit on it for 3-5 minutes. It makes ALL the difference.

Then proceed with your regular shaving routine, followed by a warm shower, then cold water rinse.

Ditch the alum if you're using it and only apply A/S, preferably one without or with low %-age of alcohol.

Let us know if it helps!

The facial oils issue is possible. But my shaves are about the same even if I skip the shower, wet my face, lather, let the lather sit (as I always do) for 3 minutes, then apply the razor. I've tried the hot wet facecloth routine, and that doesn't seem to make much difference over simply wetting my face and lathering.

 

[DaveHStone]

The facial oils issue is possible. But my shaves are about the same even if I skip the shower, wet my face, lather, let the lather sit (as I always do) for 3 minutes, then apply the razor. I've tried the hot wet facecloth routine, and that doesn't seem to make much difference over simply wetting my face and lathering.

Well, if it's not the software, technique or process, then perhaps you might wanna try a different hardware.

Me, I swear by AC type SEs. Since I switched, I never looked back. And it's more than YMMV thing, as AC blades are tick and rigid, which prevents skipping and chatter.

 

[Benzadmiral]

A 36-hour beard this afternoon, mowed down with the Merkur Progress and a Personna Lab Blue blade. I took it very carefully: washed face and throat, applied La Toja soap; 1 pass WTG on cheeks and throat with setting 4.5 (my Merkur is fully tightened at 2), lower lip at 4, then pass 2 ATG on the throat with 3.5. I skipped the full-scale pass 3 and did a little cleanup around my Adam's apple, and I called it done.

Certainly clean-feeling, no irritation, and my face and throat are satisfyingly smooth.

 

[Benzadmiral]

DaveHStone, I tried your "shave first, shower later" routine this morning. I wet and washed my face and throat, left the soap on while I loaded my brush (a boar and TOBS cream today), then face-lathered as I usually do. After 3 minutes, I did a quick 1-to-2 pass shave, i.e., 1 pass WTG everywhere, then pass 2 ATG/XTG on the throat alone. My shower followed, then my skin lotion. After I dried my hair, I applied my Clubman aftershave. After cleaning up, I slapped on the Clubman powder. Result, quite smooth and comfortable.

I resisted the idea of shave first, shower after because, back in the '80s, I did it that way when I used a razor instead of my electric. Half the time I'd nick myself and have to rinse the blood off in the shower. Of course, that was with a cart -- I forget how many blades it had -- and I had *no* technique at all!