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Need some razor pinning help please

I just finished pinning this razor earlier today: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/322468-My-first-customish-GD

The blade doesn't want to stay in the scales in the closed position now. Even though I completely removed the shoulders, it is still very thick at that point of the shank and the wooden scales are now pushing the blade out. Now that the scales have had a few hours pinned, the blade is a little loose, especially the last few inches right before the razor closes.

I am afraid to try and tighten the pins anymore with the blade in the closed position for fear of damaging the scales. I was thinking of tightening the pins with the razor in the open position, but I'm worried the razor will never stayed closed after doing that.

This is my first razor with wood scales, so I'm not sure what to do. As always, thank you very much for your feedback in advance.
 
The wedge may be too small if the blade can't close as far as you would like it to. Regarding tightening the pivot pin in the open position...that's what I'd do if it's not tight enough. They usually loosen up a bit anyway.
 
The wedge is a full 1/8th, but the shank is 3/16th
I think Legion is asking about the actual wedge separating the scales. Can you take a picture lengthwise and a little above showing the wedge.
This view
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Alfredo, is glue what is keeping the scales together at the thin end of the wedge? With 1/8" wood scales (for example) I can't see how the very tip would flex that much only based on the pin. With plastic I can see how glue would be enough since plastic is more flexible. Thanks.
 
Alfredo, is glue what is keeping the scales together at the thin end of the wedge? With 1/8" wood scales (for example) I can't see how the very tip would flex that much only based on the pin. With plastic I can see how glue would be enough since plastic is more flexible. Thanks.

A wedge shaped wedge and a pin should keep it flat. I have started putting a drop of glue to hold it together but really only to prevent movement while peening it.

The key is to have the a wedge with really flat sides, I mean flat. The inside of the scales also need to be really flat. I always peen the wedge area first, then the pivot.
 
I think Legion is asking about the actual wedge separating the scales. Can you take a picture lengthwise and a little above showing the wedge.
This view

Thx DOC, this is the best view I can do or the iPad blocks the sun. The wedge is straight and does not bow the scales.

$image.jpg
 
Doc and Legion are going in the right direction. You have a spacer which doesn't bow the scales and is causing the interference. Look how Doc's photo has a tapered wedge which bows the scales giving space for the blade to settle into. Good photo showing this.
The bowed scales also affect the tension on the blade as it swings through the arc as it opens and closes. It will go from snug, to looser, to snug again as it swings to the open position.
 

Kentos

B&B's Dr. Doolittle.
Staff member
Thanks Kent, that was very informative and depressing at the same time. Looks like I'm going save these scales for another razor.

You are welcome! My first 3 rescales all had parallel wedges too so I feel your pain. Making the wedges are a bit of a challenge depending on the material, but the end results are worth it.
 
I've only made 3 set of scales and they are all parallel as well. They all work and look better than the plastic scales that I started with (now wood). If I decide to redo the wedges it shouldn't be too hard. It just involved repinning and a little more sanding and touch up. Fortunately I finish my scales with shellac which is easy to rework and touch up.

On my first set of scales I initially used a true wedge but I couldn't get the scales at the tip to touch and it just left a big gap so I went back to spacers rather than wedges. Now that I've perfected (somewhat) my overall scale making skills I can always do back and try to figure out the wedge technique more fully.
 
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