First time restoring, I found a Kropp ground in Sheffield straight in a very rusty condition. The scales had a previous owners name scratched in as well. I sanded the blade and scales to 1200 and made a new spacer from amber as the old one just seemed to be an ugly piece of lead. I'm not a fan of highly polished blades but will try with my next one so I can be sure I'm not just taking an easy way out with the satin finish. It shaves very nicely, quite a different feel to my dovo stainless blade.
My first restore
- Thread starter ClinchKnives
- Start date
Not too shabby! Did you also square off the end of the blade? If so, how did you do that? I have a blade with a jacked up point (somebody else already ground some off or something), and I'm going to start asking around to see what works for doing that without overheating the metal.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks, it was quite the learning curve. The origional pivot hole was hopelesly scew. I use some rough sandpaper on a buff stick to straighten the point and then dug in with the corner of the stick in a circular motion. Then I used the white abrasive rubber wheel on my dremel to smoothen any bumps out. The whole way through sanding I held the blade in my hand very near to where I was working and backed off as soon as I felt too much heat, the blade comes down to 0.2 mm from about half way so I was very aware of heat changes. I've got another one I'm starting and that has some excessive hone wear. I've adjusted the profile with the buff stick into more of a smile than a horrid curve toward the point. I think a bench grinder is too rough and would chip the edge.
Good luck
Good luck
nice job!
When you repinned the piviot, did you use a sleave to help with the play in the hole, or did you use some other method??
thanks
When you repinned the piviot, did you use a sleave to help with the play in the hole, or did you use some other method??
thanks
It's an interesting thing the play in the pin hole. I have purchased many new razors and they all have a play in the pin hole from new. I don't know why but they make them that way.
The only reason to put a piece of tube in the hole IMHO is if the hole has enlarged from rust over the years and the play has got excessive or if you are pinning the scales with a pin that is thinner than the original. Sometimes this might be the case on an a very old wedge I suppose but I have not come accross it as an issue.
But if you feel the need, you can usually purchase brass tubing at the same place you purchase the brass rod and washers for pinning the scales back again. I suppose in theory it is a more precise job. I do wonder if the oversize hole is deliberate though.
The only reason to put a piece of tube in the hole IMHO is if the hole has enlarged from rust over the years and the play has got excessive or if you are pinning the scales with a pin that is thinner than the original. Sometimes this might be the case on an a very old wedge I suppose but I have not come accross it as an issue.
But if you feel the need, you can usually purchase brass tubing at the same place you purchase the brass rod and washers for pinning the scales back again. I suppose in theory it is a more precise job. I do wonder if the oversize hole is deliberate though.
- Thread starter
- #6
I did drill the hole bigger with a diamond burr to try straighten it and then I put a piece of silver wire in, hammered it stuck and then drilled it to the size of my pin. Sort of making a tube. The problem which didn't occur to me untill it was too late is that the holes in the scales were drilled to match the scew hole. So when I pinned it with the now straight pin, the one scale is under pressure and bows out slightly. Live and learn I suppose, won't do that again.
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