Motorcycle Maintenance

[Lynchmeister]

Hey guys,

A couple days ago I noticed that my rear brake light is not activated when the rear brake is in use (I suspect this problem had originated when I put the new rear tire on a few weeks ago). Yesterday, while going over the bike before a ride, I was doing things such as adjusting the idle speed, checking chain tension, etc., and figured I'd take a shot at the brake light. I grabbed my manual, and much to my surprise, learned that there is a little switch that can be adjusted. Easy enough, I thought, and began the task of removing the metal guard plate that obstructs access to the switch.

Of course Suzuki thought it best to use hex bolts (allen) wherever possible and all I have is a cheap set of little wrenches, i.e., not the nice T-handle ones that I probably *should* be using. You can guess where I'm going with this one. I stripped the crap out of one of the bolts.

Any advise on how to remove a stripped out hex bolt? Is drilling it out an option?

Thanks!

 

[Dennis]

You could drill it out. If it is raised up, you could take a Dremel and cut a slot in the head then use a screwdriver. You could also try vice grips if there is enough of the bolt showing. Sears also sells stripped bolt and screw removal kits. You drill in reverse, they bite in and extract the bolt.

 

[Lynchmeister]

Loving the Dremel idea! If I can get my hands on one, I'll go that route. Thanks!

 

[82R100]

Drilling is an option, particularly if you could get ahold of a left-handed drill bit. With a LH bit, there's the chance that the bit will bind a little and unscrew the screw when it does. Anyhow, make sure that you choose a small enough drill that it doesn't wipe out the threads that the screw is screwed into. You can use an EZ-Out to remove the screw then.

If the head is protruding a bit, I have a Sears Craftsman set called Power Bolt-Out which is made to grip the outer diameter of the thread with spiral internal grooves. It might do the job.

- Chris

 

[Mysterion]

Depending on how badly the hex recess is mangled, you can sometimes deal with this by heating the tip of your allen wrench with a torch (AKA "the blue wrench.") The heat expands the wrench enough to give better contact with the walls of the recess--make sure to exert downward pressure with the wrench, in order to seat it as well as possible (another good case for T-handle units.)

Doesn't always work, but I've employed this trick with some success--it's a good place to start before you resort to slotting with the Dremel, which may ultimately be your best option.

 

[Jwolf24601]

I got off some bolts like that with a pair of vise grips, assuming there is enough of the head exposed to grab onto.

 

[82R100]

Depending on how badly the hex recess is mangled, you can sometimes deal with this by heating the tip of your allen wrench with a torch (AKA "the blue wrench.") The heat expands the wrench enough to give better contact with the walls of the recess--make sure to exert downward pressure with the wrench, in order to seat it as well as possible (another good case for T-handle units.)

This is also assuming that you were using the correct metric size allen wrench in the first place.

 

[thirdeye]

Cory, Buy a Harley...Much more user freindly....

 

[Lynchmeister]

Cory, Buy a Harley...Much more user freindly....

 

[luvmysuper]

I suggest a single "easy-out" of the proper size. A few bucks for this tool which looks like a fat drill bit and has opposite hand threads. Put the end in, turn in the loosen direction and the easy out will bite harder into the stripped hole and turn out the stripped bolt.

 

[RazorDingo]

I suggest a single "easy-out" of the proper size.

An "Easy Out" or screw extractor - is almost certainly the way to go.

I often hear of people trying to make "slots" in stripped screw heads - it almost never works. A screw that is stuck tight enough to fail when torqued by a hex-bit, is unlikely to respond well to a flat-bladed screwdriver.

You may very well need to drill a small pilot hole in the stripped screw shank in order to get the easy-out started. Make sure you have the right sized metal-cutting bit. Lubricate the drill will a little light oil, and drill as straight as you can.

Before attempting to use the easy-out, you can also increase your chances of succesful extraction by applying some penetrating oil around the screw head - allowing a couple of hours for it to work its way down into the threads.

 

[Mysterion]

...you can also increase your chances of succesful extraction by applying some penetrating oil...

Absolutely. PB Blaster is the best penetrating oil I've ever used. Liquid wrench? This stuff is far more effective. Stinks less, too.

 

[Lynchmeister]

Hmm...considering that I don't have a Dremel and am banking on a friend having one, the easy-out bit may be my best bet. Sounds like it's an effective, inexpensive tool.

Thanks for the advice, guys! I'm sure I'll be back with more questions of a more mechanical nature once I dive into the bike a bit more.

 

[wedwards]

Cory, Buy a Harley...Much more user freindly....

The only difference (possibly) between his current bike and a harley is the harley manual details all the tensions for everything so that you cant strip bolts....assuming you read it that is....

 

[ScotchDave]

Just wanted to say that when I worked in a bike shop, instead of cutting a slot into the head of the bolt, we'd file spanner flats on the outside. Tended to work a lot better.

 

[SRock]

Cory, Buy a Harley...Much more user freindly....

This is my plan!

 

[Lynchmeister]

To the Harley/Metric cruiser crowd I have to say, they're just not for me. I'm sure they're comfortable, but aesthetically they just don't excite me. A ZX-R, YZF-R, GSX-R, or CBR, though, and my pulse quickens. After spending the summer on my GS500F (which is not a sportbike, but a standard w/ fairing to look like a sportbike. See below) I also know that a Repli-racer is also not what I'm looking for based on the riding that I do.

So. Where will that leave me in a couple years when I look to upgrade? I'm thinking possibly a Yamaha FZ-6, Suzuki SV650S or Vstrom 650, or GSX650F. First, though, I'll focus on that stripped bolt.

GS500E

in comparison to...

GS500F:

As you can see, the only difference is the fairing. I'm constantly trying to explain this to people who give the the old "OMG, you ride a crotch-rocket! Aren't you afraid you're going to kill yourself?!?!?"

I won't get started on that whole deal, though...

 

[Koss]

I'm also a standard rider. I just like the riding position since I'm so use to it. Been riding dirt bikes for well over ten years, mostly as a teenager/kid.But also cruiser's are not good for my lower back. Super Sport bikes are okay on the track, but I hate commuting on them or riding for more than an hour in stop and go traffic. Once you are at highway speeds the air helps support your upper body more so that relieves some strain.

The 650's are great bikes. Also the older ZZR's from kawasaki is very close to standard seating position. The most comfortable bike I ever sat on was the first ZZR600 generation. It was like It was built for me.

the Z750 and z1000 are right in that sweet spot too. If you want a larger engine.

The Fazer/FZ series from Yamaha is fun too.

Although there is nothing wrong with 500's. I've owned my Kawasaki Ninja 500r since 2006, and it has seen plenty of used bikes in my possession come and go. All of them much faster in a straight line or on the track. I still use the 500 as my weapon of choice in my daily commute.

 

[Robust2]

Fellow GS 500 driver, with lots of experience on broken hex bolts (on my Bandit 400 though) reporting in
First of all: get a decent set of wrenches, I destroyed about 6 with my cheap tools, and never had problems again after throwing those away and buying decent tools instead.
Suggestions on the bolt:
Vise-grip, those easy-out tools, sawing a slot in the head if it's accessible, drilling it out, a Torx bit might fit into the head...
One of those will probably work

Are there a lot of bikers on here? I'm dreaming of upgrading to a Triumph Street Triple in 2-3 years.

 

[Stubblefield]

To the Harley/Metric cruiser crowd I have to say, they're just not for me. I'm sure they're comfortable, but aesthetically they just don't excite me. A ZX-R, YZF-R, GSX-R, or CBR, though, and my pulse quickens.

No love for Triumph?