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Making your own adjustble razor

So I followed an old DE1 thread a while back until I lost interest around the end of the year. Over the weekend, I saw a new post in it and went to read it, and the new post was nothing interesting. However the posts before that (starting some time after I stopped following the thread) was interesting. @deoxy4 was mentioning how he put a 5mm ID Silicone O Ring between the baseplate and the handle and found out that he essentially created a poor man's adjustable razor. Being a cheap man willing to sacrifice his face in the name of science, I went down to my local hardware store and looked around and was directed to three different departments before finding 5mm Rubber O Rings in the plumbing section. They cost a little more than 30 cents each and so I bought two and took them home to test out.

I immediately put the O Ring on my DE1 and found that from the point where the head was tightened to be secure to the point where it was fully tightened, I got about 5 quarter turns on the handle. I lathered up and left it on the setting where things were just secure and did a WTG pass. It was definitely more aggressive than the normal DE1 shave and mowed down my whiskers pretty efficiently. Comparing it to my Parker Variant, I would say it was about a 3-4 setting. Being motivated, I lathered up again and did two quarter turns and did an ATG pass. This time it was definitely milder and about a 2.5 on my Variant. So for my touch up, I decided to tighten it all the way and now if felt like the normal DE1 shave which was about a 1.5 setting on the Variant.

I was so excited that when I took the razor apart to rinse off, I forgot to take off the O Ring and it went down the drain. Oh well, there goes 30 cents. Good thing I had a second one. The next night I decided that since there were no open comb adjustable razors, I would try doing the same with my RR Old Type. Again, just like the night before, the setting just barely holding the head in place produced a shave similar to my R41. The big difference was that giving the razor two quarter turns and making it completely tight did not produce any noticeable difference. Maybe it was because the Old Type is a clone of the Gillette Old, which was a pretty aggressive razor to begin with.

So finally, tonight I followed the same reasoning as last night and pulled out my RR German 37 since I only heard rumors of an adjustable slant but never saw one up close. This time around because it was a slant, I started with 1 1/2 quarter turns in. The WTG pass was definitely very rough and so I stopped after shaving half of my face and did another quarter turn and finished off my WTG pass. This time the shave was similar to my PAA bakelite - very efficient but not very comfortable. For my ATG pass, I did another quarter turn and it felt much more comfortable and very efficient. For my touch up, I turned it completely tight and it felt like my regular 37c clone.

So my conclusions are that this process does actually allow your razor to have some adjustability as in adjustable razors. For a milder razor, the lowest setting will make it significantly more aggressive. One thing to realize in all of this is that whatever razor you are using, it will not be able to make it any milder than what your original head was, and in the case of the Old Type, the in between adjustments did not vary as much as it did with the DE1. In the case of the slant, the best results seem to be between almost fully tightened and fully tightened and this is probably because the blade need to be torqued to some useful level to be effective.

Seeing some hope in continuing this experiment, I ordered a bunch of Silicone O Rings off of Ebay for about $8 and am waiting for them to arrive. I don't see this as a replacement for a Parker Variant or a Gillette Toggle, but it might be a fun thing to do while waiting for the release of the next "IT" razor.
 

nemo

Lunatic Fringe
Staff member
..... mentioning how he put a 5mm ID Silicone O Ring between the baseplate and the handle and found out that he essentially created a poor man's adjustable razor.....

Between the baseplate and the handle? How's that work?

Seems the gap would still be the same but the assembly would be a bit wobbly to me.
 
I wouldn't try that with a Goodwill based on the OLD, the cap, blade, baseplate, and handle, would be moving independent of each other! And to a lesser extent I imagine any three piece might suffer from some parts migration. Seems as though the blade might lack support also resulting in chatter.
 

nemo

Lunatic Fringe
Staff member
I guess it's like Gillette suggested in a 1907 ad, "..... by a turn of the handle, is adjusted for either a light or close shave", but the o-ring gives a little more control over the tightness (or looseness). Without the blade clamped securely, yes I would imagine there could be some blade chatter.

From an instruction sheet courtesy of Mr Razor's site:
1907 Old Type English, German, Espanol, Italiano, Francais-06.jpg


I used to do that in the seventies with my Krona, just loosening the TTO knob a bit to get a closer shave.

For a three piece as originally posted, I think a shim may be a more reliable fix.
 
Between the baseplate and the handle? How's that work?

Seems the gap would still be the same but the assembly would be a bit wobbly to me.
I think he meant between the top cap and baseplate.

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Between base plate and handle around the screw. What this does is allow the handle to loosen while keeping the head, blade, and base plate still taut, not unlike the Gillette instructions, but allowing you to adjust more.

DSC01352.JPG
DSC01353.JPG
 
Interesting. Thanks for the pics, made it more clear.

With all the DIY attitude here and all the bent safety-bar threads, I thought for sure there'd be a DIY slant thread or two..:001_tongu
 
Ah! Now that I know it wasn't a typo in get the idea behind it. Much smaller increments this way.

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This is easier than a shim (or two, or three), it is more incrementally adjustable, and not many folks have tried it. That's really what this forum is all about.
 
I'm going to try this, I usually shim though. In the back of my mind I'm wondering about the head coming loose, or spinning a little, one way or another. Thats just me. Heading up to Lowes in a little bit, will report back.
 
This is easier than a shim (or two, or three), it is more incrementally adjustable, and not many folks have tried it. That's really what this forum is all about.

Exactly.

I use 3/4 turn from snug on with the grain passes and across the grain passes. I use a 1/2 to 1/4 turn from snug on the against the grain pass. For buffing I turn the handle fully snug. All adjustments made without opening the razor to add or replace shims!

If you use silicone O-rings the compression is adequate to hold the razor handle from spinning during the shave.
 
Okay part two of an adjustable slant. I was following another thread talking about the X3 slant and @efsk mentioned that it was based on a differential head design where one side of the head was designed to be more aggressive than the other. However the Ikon design modified it so much that you could hardly tell the difference between the two sides. I thought that if the head adjustment worked to some extent on the other slant, maybe I might be able to coax the two sides to actually be different. Having already ruined my regular week rotation by pre-empting three razors in the queue, I decided to try the O ring on the X3. Like last night's experience with the adjustable slant, I decided to start about 1 1/2 turn in. Unlike the German 37, I was able to hold this setting throughout my WTG pass. The left side of my face I used the aggressive side of the X3 and the right side, the milder side. I immediately found a noticeable difference between the two sides in the way it shaved, but not a noticeable difference in efficiency. the left side felt like I was shaving with my PAA bakelite, and the right felt like my 37. I tightened the head by a 1/2 turn and the difference between the two sides started to become less noticeable, but the efficiency remained. Finally, fully tightened, there was no difference between the two sides and it was perfect for touch up, being the mild shaver that it was.

So, that's the end of the poor man's adjustable experiment. Now I wait for my pack of silicone O rings to get here and in the mean time, I get back to my regular rotation with injector razors coming up tomorrow and my Century+ Gem type razors coming up Sunday. Too much excitement for one week.
 
I tried it, it works pretty good and is a good idea, though just not for me. I've been using shims for alot of years, and its hard to teach an old dog new tricks. Good thinking though, and I'm gonna save the o rings for the future.
 
I agree with the above^.....BUT!!...This O-Ring-Thang could open up a whole-new-world for me and others that already shim......(shim shimmany, shim shimmany, shim shim sha-rooh....) :a14:...

:gun_bandana:...............................................................................................................:taz:
 
Great thread. I saw it a couple of times in a few posts about some particular razors and thought it potentially tricky, but now I have ordered me some o-rings. Thanks OP. :)
On the other hand, I wonder whether using a shim made from a thick plastic card between the base plate and handle would work the same should the base plate be rounded... I sense an experimental shave coming up soon. :-D
 
Frankly, I've been wondering why none of the 3 piece razors have a teflon insert where the handle hits the baseplate, to protect the metal(s). The o-rings are good for that, if nothing else.
 
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