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just ordered lapping fillm

Welp, Here we go guys! Just got some lapping film from Noah on here and I cant wait! I have an old blade that I don't use because after its honing last time, it got DULL real fast, and am using others as we speak. So why not try it right?! it still cuts armhair so its not too dull, and I don't think I need to reset the bevel. Do you guys suggest just to reset it because im unsure of how it was honed before? I think I may have to because im unsure of how the person that honed it, honed it. tapeless, or taped, then mm of tape thickness? all these I feel would change the edge, but if it cuts armhair, would it be able to reset the light bevel without getting into the higher up films?
 
Just out of curiosity I would probably tape it and run it thru the finer films, just to see how it feels. If it was taped before you will just match up the previous bevel. If it wasnt you will just create a micro bevel.

If you reset the bevel will you be using the film or do you have a stone for that?
 
ok ill try it out with the tape. and since this will be my first time honing it will be all lapping films and no stones. the ones that i bought from another member had theroughest i needed to do a bevel set. and all the way to as fine as i believe i need it to be.
 
Satan uses lapping film to hone his razors.

Don't worry, though.

He used the Beatles to play his music.
 

Kentos

B&B's Dr. Doolittle.
Staff member
To absolutely sure sharpie pen the edge and run it a few times to see if no tape takes off all the ink. If it doesn't it was taped.
 
Why not ask the person who honed it what they used, going from taped to untaped will require a bevel reset-not usre if lapping film alone can do that.
 
Why not ask the person who honed it what they used, going from taped to untaped will require a bevel reset-not usre if lapping film alone can do that.

Good advice - especially if the person is just starting out honing. Could save hours of frustration.

You can reset the bevel with lapping film if the bevel was set with one layer of tape. I usually do about 120 strokes on 12 micron if I set the bevel with tape on the spine. Finer lapping films might set the bevel but you would need to be pure of heart and have lots and lots of time.

When I was honing for others, I *always* set (or reset) the bevel. The DMT was used if the edge needed work (and I would tape the spine) otherwise, I would use either a 1K or 4K and not tape the spine. Resetting a bevel does not hurt a normal razor and establishes a starting point so you can maintain the razor for years. There are special considerations for delicate spine work and etching but those were not a factor in the razors I was honing.
 
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Welp, Here we go guys! Just got some lapping film from Noah on here and I cant wait! I have an old blade that I don't use because after its honing last time, it got DULL real fast, and am using others as we speak. So why not try it right?! it still cuts armhair so its not too dull, and I don't think I need to reset the bevel. Do you guys suggest just to reset it because im unsure of how it was honed before? I think I may have to because im unsure of how the person that honed it, honed it. tapeless, or taped, then mm of tape thickness? all these I feel would change the edge, but if it cuts armhair, would it be able to reset the light bevel without getting into the higher up films?


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I'm in the same boat as gruntedshaves, got some film, and thought i'd use this faux frameback as my guinea pigs.
Sorry for the poor pic.
Anyway, looking at it, it appears to have a micro bevel, and no hone wear on the spine.
Tape, or not to tape?
regards,
Bil

$_DSC2140.jpg
 
I'm in the same boat as gruntedshaves, got some film, and thought i'd use this faux frameback as my guinea pigs.
Sorry for the poor pic.
Anyway, looking at it, it appears to have a micro bevel, and no hone wear on the spine.
Tape, or not to tape?
regards,
Bil

View attachment 320395
I ran into the same qualm about taping. personally Im not going to tape this old one im using. it has no special writing or anything that does need to be protected by it. so I don't mind at all. Personally if it was my TI that I received as a gift. I would definitely tape it. just because I love it more. lol...id do it on yours though because of how pronounced that spine is. I wouldn't want to flatten it out.
 
how would it reduce hone time?

In my experience bevels are set quicker with taped spine. Most of my time is spent on setting a proper bevel, the rest of the progression is easy (light pressure on 5, lighter pressure on 3, no pressure on 1 micron). Don't move from 12 micron until it shaves arm hair easily. Always keep the surface wet. I use soapy water (dawn dish soap) through out.

EDIT: do 20 small circles moving up the honing surface, then 20 on the other side, followed by 20 x-strokes. Check bevel keenness. Keep going until it shaves arm hair. Check the bevel for scratches under a bright light. By the time you finish with 1 micron the bevel should be like a mirror.
 
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In my experience bevels are set quicker with taped spine. Most of my time is spent on setting a proper bevel, the rest of the progression is easy (light pressure on 5, lighter pressure on 3, no pressure on 1 micron). Don't move from 12 micron until it shaves arm hair easily. Always keep the surface wet. I use soapy water (dawn dish soap) through out.

EDIT: do 20 small circles moving up the honing surface, then 20 on the other side, followed by 20 x-strokes. Check bevel keenness. Keep going until it shaves arm hair. Check the bevel for scratches under a bright light. By the time you finish with 1 micron the bevel should be like a mirror.
Whats funny is, I did what you said, minus the tape. lol. it was on an older blade and I wanted to see hone differences as I have one that a honemeister here had done, and has a small chip in it; he had stated his was taped so im gonna try his out with the tape. To be honest, my first honing experience wasn't bad at all. I had 12, 5, 3., and 1 micron. I literally just went about what I felt was right. Basically tried to compile everybodies experience and make my own. So on 12 micron, I did about 70 laps, and did small circular motions every 10-15 laps. then 60 on the 5 3 and 1. then I stropped 70 times. I have to say it cut my arm hair pretty dang nicely after everything(didn't try during the process. should have. forgot.) it has a nice mirror finish, and it definitely feels sharp. truthfully, I really don't mind if it comes out nothing like im thinking; its my first try, but you better believe I hope it comes out awesome. lol. Im going to try it out on my nephew first. lolol
 
welp....I shaved my nephews face. I think I love the guy more because of his trust with me; lol. He asked to make it quick. I said im going to try a small spot first....so I did a small half inch section near his side burn. I asked his if it pulled, hurt, did anything. he said no. just sharp. that was a good sign. He said to hurry up again. so I sped up. lol. It took everything off. I mean EVERYTHING. I nearly shat myself. I did one pass, that was all it needed. I asked if it pulled, if it hurt, if anything. he said no. he smiled, and went to his high school honey. lol. Im surprised. Im going to shave with it in a few days when I get good growth. I cant be this lucky. lol
 
Thanks Noah, youre the guy that put me onto honing! lol. sold me the tools, and set me off! lol. I really am blown away. unsure if I believe that itll shave my face...even though I saw what it did to my nephews. I just couldn't believe it.
 
how would it reduce hone time?

In and of itself - taping doesn't save time on the stone. The steel on the bevel has to be removed, and tape on the spine has zero impact on that.

If the edge was honed originally without tape, using tape will increase the time on the stone. You could leave the blade with a double bevel, and that might save time because the new bevel that is set on tape would be thinner than one set without tape. Theoretically - you would set the original bevel again 1st anyway.
I haven't done that that often, only when/if the edge is honed way up into the thicker part of the blade and Im trying to reduce mass at the bevel. IMO, it's a tricky thing to pull off that doesn't have all that much impact on the final result.

If that blade was honed originally with tape or a sleeve - then using tape will save the time needed to set a new bevel angle.

Most imporatntly - That razor has a brass spine/frame - it is considerably softer than the steel, and it will wear considerably faster on the stone.


You don't have to tape it - but if you do tape it, then it won't wear so much and it'll be easier to keep the blade's geometry straight down the road.
Fact is - that steel will hold an edge very very well and once you set the bevel you may not have to do it again for a looooong time.
So - a little wear on the spine wouldn't be all that terrible really.
Still - I always tape those types of razors, except for one that had seriously uneven spine-wear that had to be ironed out. When I was done cleaning up that mess, I taped the spine and started over. It was a Swede like yours and that steel was tough. The brass was tougher than I thought too, but it still took a hit and I had to live with it.
 
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