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Jumping into Razor Restoration

In the five months since I've joined you, my fellow razor enthusiasts, I have managed to collect nine or ten straights. I'd say only four of them are worthy of being in my rotation, and I only use two of them on a regular basis. I've been wanting to get the others in looking better, so I decided I would try and polish them up.

Earlier this evening I bought a rotary tool. It's similar to the Dremel, but it's a knock-off that only cost me 19.99! It came with all sorts of attachments, too. While I was at Canadian Tire, I realized I hadn't asked you guys what polish/solvents etc. I should get, so I picked up a three dollar can of Brasso metal polish.

I'm prepared to go out and buy other products, but I need the advice of those of you who have done this already and had success. Bill Ellis seems to be the restoration master around here, so hopefully he drops by. :)

Which rotary bits are best, also? Just the cotton wheels?

Razor restoration can be addicting.....

One warning before you use that rotary tool----

Be very aware of the rotation direction of the tip. You want to use the tool so that the rotation rolls the tip AWAY from the edge, not into it. This way, the tip can't get caught on the edge and break it off, sending very sharp sharpnel into who knows where.....
Yes, that's good advice about the bit's rotation. I had experimented with my Dad's Dremel and a razor of mine not too long ago, and when I got a little too close to the edge with the cotton wheel, it fired off little fibres like -- well, like cotton candy.

I was going down the length of the blade, also. From the looks of other restored razors, it seems most guys most go from spine to edge, riding the ground like a skateboard ramp.
Try using the felt wheels. Felt comes in soft, medium, hard and rock(diamond) hard. Use the medium or hard but not the soft or rock hard. The compund I use
is Flex Cut Gold. This is a honing compound sold in woodworking stores and is more aggressive than the green compound. Use the slowest speed on the rotary tool, that way its more controllable. The two main problems with a rotary tool are heat and direction of the spin. If you hold the tool in one spot you can easily heat up the metal to the point where you draw the temper of the blade and make the metal soft. The direction of spin is critical. The wheel cannot spin "into" the edge of the blade. If it does then the wheel will chip or break the blade.

Plwase, please,please wear eye protection! and be very careful.
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