Journey to find my razor preference

[Ohjay]

I recently made an introduction post where I mentioned that I was starting on a journey to find my razor preference and this journal is intended for documenting that journey.

But first a brief recap.
I started shaving with a DE about 5 years ago and the first razor was an Edwin Jagger Plaza, nothing fancy at all but it served it's purpose. With that razor I also tried out various blade brands and felt that Astra and Feather gave me the best shave.
A bit later I got a Merkur 34C as a gift which quickly replaced the EJ, and once again I tried different blades, only this time it was just the Feather that gave me a shave I felt was good enough.
But lately I have felt that there is something missing with the 34C and wanted to buy a new razor. I had no idea what though, and eventually fell down the rabbit hole of vintage DE razors.
Long story short, I ended up buying 8 vintage razors over a couple of days and the journey was started.

Yesterday the first razor arrived and it was one I bought "blind". The listing was sparse with info and the images were not great. I suspected that it might be a 60s Gillette Super Speed but I was far from certain in that assessment.
I'm still not 100% sure of the model, but I think it is actually a British Gillette Rocket Flare Tip. I have no idea about year.
The razor weighs 60g and is 84mm long which fits with the Rocket.
I also considered if it could be a British #80, the rhodium plated one, but the handle is wrong so I do not that is the case.
I forgot to upload the instructions that were included, so I'll add them in a later post, but they don't mention which model it is either.

Anyway, some images:

It had been almost a week since my last shave so it was high time for a new shave so this razor was put through its paces immediately.

The shaving experience was quite different compared to the Merkur 34C as I felt that the angle needed was quite different and also quite narrow. If I veered off then it got very rough, very quick. It's going to take a little bit to get used to.
I also felt that there was a lot more blade feel with this razor which was slightly scary considering I used a Feather blade.
I did three passes, WTG, XTG and finally ATG. XTG but especially ATG felt rough and it felt like I would cut myself badly several times, but that never happened of course.
Considering that it was a new razor, and also a new soap I had not used before, I suppose it's no surprise that I got a few smaller nicks and weepers.
Despite this, the result of the shave was surprisingly great. Big parts of my face ended up BBS and the rest were DFS. I have a couple of areas that usually need 4 passes to get BBS but with this razor they were closer to BBS after three compared to the result with the Merkur 34C.
Another thing that surprised me was how long the smoothness lasted. With the 34C my face starts feeling rough (SAS) after 10-12 hours and it's now been a bit more than 24 hours since I shaved and my face is now starting to have the same roughness.

Each shave I do with these razors will be documented and rated. In an upcoming post I'll show parts of my spreadsheet used for this, but I don't want to spoil the surprise just yet. I'll just say that I will do at minimum three shaves with each new razor to have more data for comparing the razors.

Speaking of spoilers and surprises, I received another razor today. But I will leave that for the next post.

 

[thombrogan]

Welcome to Badger and Blade and congratulations on your budding addiction to vintage razors. Your latest one looks spectacular.

 

[blethenstrom]

Seems like you have landed a very nice SuperSpeed Flare Tip there. Sounds like you experienced it shaving differently than your 34C razor. One of the things I noticed with the SuperSpeed is that it bends the razor blade more than other razors that I have. I am not sure about the 34C and how much it bends it, since I do not own one. Yes the angles do matter quite a bit with that one much more so than the Gillette Tech for example. It is a great shaver though and once you learn it you will be perfectly fine. sounds like you already had a great shave with it.

 

[Ohjay]

Seems like you have landed a very nice SuperSpeed Flare Tip there.
...
One of the things I noticed with the SuperSpeed is that it bends the razor blade more than other razors that I have. I am not sure about the 34C and how much it bends it, since I do not own one.

Since I'm naturally curious, what makes this a SuperSpeed Flare Tip and not a Rocket Flare Tip?
I know there's some discrepancies regarding the "official" Gillette name and what us enthusiasts call them. The handle and especially the gap between the handle and TTO knob is a Rocket feature compared to most SuperSpeeds (I think I saw one or two early examples on the Mr-Razor website).

When comparing it does look like this razor bends the blade a fair bit more than the 34C.

Here are the instructions that came with the razor. Let me know if anyone of you want it translated.
It doesn't say much about the razor, the only mildly interesting bit is that it says "has a first-class coating, which prevents corrosion", which made me think of the rhodium coated version, but I doubt that is what this is.

Did the second shave with this razor today and result was similar to the first save.
Once again three passes, WTG, XTG and ATG. The XTG and ATG were rough, really rough and I kept struggling with the razor and it felt like the blade got caught all the time. I also got more nicks and they mostly came from the XTG and ATG passes.
As I've mentioned, the result with this razor is great I just wish it was less of a struggle using it and getting a more comfortable shave. Part of it is definitely my lack of technique and experience, having only used two different razors before and both were quite mild and forgiving.
The other part is the Feather blade which I'm beginning to think is not a good match in this razor for me. It's going to be interesting to try it with other blades.

 

[blethenstrom]

Since I'm naturally curious, what makes this a SuperSpeed Flare Tip and not a Rocket Flare Tip?
I know there's some discrepancies regarding the "official" Gillette name and what us enthusiasts call them. The handle and especially the gap between the handle and TTO knob is a Rocket feature compared to most SuperSpeeds (I think I saw one or two early examples on the Mr-Razor website).

When comparing it does look like this razor bends the blade a fair bit more than the 34C.

Here are the instructions that came with the razor. Let me know if anyone of you want it translated.
It doesn't say much about the razor, the only mildly interesting bit is that it says "has a first-class coating, which prevents corrosion", which made me think of the rhodium coated version, but I doubt that is what this is.

Did the second shave with this razor today and result was similar to the first save.
Once again three passes, WTG, XTG and ATG. The XTG and ATG were rough, really rough and I kept struggling with the razor and it felt like the blade got caught all the time. I also got more nicks and they mostly came from the XTG and ATG passes.
As I've mentioned, the result with this razor is great I just wish it was less of a struggle using it and getting a more comfortable shave. Part of it is definitely my lack of technique and experience, having only used two different razors before and both were quite mild and forgiving.
The other part is the Feather blade which I'm beginning to think is not a good match in this razor for me. It's going to be interesting to try it with other blades.

Well you busted me there. I cannot tell because I am no Gillette razor specialist. Someone more knowledgeable than myself I am sure will fill you in. I cannot tell the difference. since it is made in England I suspect that it is a Rocket though.

Here is the funny thing. I can read those instructions just fine. Are you located in Sweden or did you just get this razor from Sweden? I grew up in Sweden. I lived there until I was 24. Nowadays living in the US. Är du svensk eller?

 

[musicman1951]

I would not make the Feather blade the automatic choice for every razor. Do your due diligence with each razor and see what you find. Some might be great with most blades and some may not. Eventually, you want to find that great marriage between razor/blade/beard/skin and technique.

 

[cajunrph]

I can't make out the patent number. I see a reference to 694039 on this post Numbered British Gillette Information - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Numbered_British_Gillette_Information

 

[blethenstrom]

I can't make out the patent number. I see a reference to 694039 on this post Numbered British Gillette Information - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Numbered_British_Gillette_Information

@Ohjay if you can please look up the patent number on the razor and that may guide us to the correct identification.

 

[blethenstrom]

I think that @cajunrph is correct. I think the patent number is 694039. In that case looking closely at the pictures it looks like a Gillette Flare Tip Rocket from 50s/60s

 

[Ohjay]

Well you busted me there. I cannot tell because I am no Gillette razor specialist. Someone more knowledgeable than myself I am sure will fill you in. I cannot tell the difference. since it is made in England I suspect that it is a Rocket though.

Here is the funny thing. I can read those instructions just fine. Are you located in Sweden or did you just get this razor from Sweden? I grew up in Sweden. I lived there until I was 24. Nowadays living in the US. Är du svensk eller?

Ah, nice!
And yes, I'm swedish and living in Sweden. Hopefully I can add more razors that were sold here.

I would not make the Feather blade the automatic choice for every razor. Do your due diligence with each razor and see what you find. Some might be great with most blades and some may not. Eventually, you want to find that great marriage between razor/blade/beard/skin and technique.

Yeah absolutely. Feather is the only blade I have available right now, but have a shipment with lots of blades on the way.
And I also figured it would be bad to change everything at once, razor, blade and soap.

I can't make out the patent number. I see a reference to 694039 on this post Numbered British Gillette Information - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Numbered_British_Gillette_Information

@Ohjay if you can please look up the patent number on the razor and that may guide us to the correct identification.

I think that @cajunrph is correct. I think the patent number is 694039. In that case looking closely at the pictures it looks like a Gillette Flare Tip Rocket from 50s/60s

Yes, the patent number is 694039 and there is an "II" stamp on the back of the base plate (if that's the correct terminology).
Center bar is solid and notched.
I also checked the Gillette Blue blades that came with it and they are marked G1, so if they are the original blades that means the razor was sold in '61.

Let me know if you want better pictures, I can always take more and with more sharpness.

 

[blethenstrom]

Ah, nice!
And yes, I'm swedish and living in Sweden. Hopefully I can add more razors that were sold here.


Yeah absolutely. Feather is the only blade I have available right now, but have a shipment with lots of blades on the way.
And I also figured it would be bad to change everything at once, razor, blade and soap.






Yes, the patent number is 694039 and there is an "II" stamp on the back of the base plate (if that's the correct terminology).
Center bar is solid and notched.
I also checked the Gillette Blue blades that came with it and they are marked G1, so if they are the original blades that means the razor was sold in '61.

Let me know if you want better pictures, I can always take more and with more sharpness.

That's pretty cool a fellow Swede. I am actually heading home here in November to visit mom and everyone else. I am from Hagfors in Värmland. Talking about Swedish razors I would like to get hold of a Matador safety razor. If you know where I can get one in good condition that would be great.

 

[Ohjay]

That's pretty cool a fellow Swede. I am actually heading home here in November to visit mom and everyone else. I am from Hagfors in Värmland. Talking about Swedish razors I would like to get hold of a Matador safety razor. If you know where I can get one in good condition that would be great.

Small world. I'm also from Värmland initially, but I grew up in a small town outside Kil.
I'll send you a private message about Matador

 

[blethenstrom]

Small world. I'm also from Värmland initially, but I grew up in a small town outside Kil.
I'll send you a private message about Matador

That is pretty cool! Kil is not far from Hagfors. Where do you live now? I moved to the US in 96' and I am currently living just outside Raleigh, NC. Awesome I will certainly look forward to that.

 

[Alum Ladd]

I recently made an introduction post where I mentioned that I was starting on a journey to find my razor preference and this journal is intended for documenting that journey.

But first a brief recap.
I started shaving with a DE about 5 years ago and the first razor was an Edwin Jagger Plaza, nothing fancy at all but it served it's purpose. With that razor I also tried out various blade brands and felt that Astra and Feather gave me the best shave.
A bit later I got a Merkur 34C as a gift which quickly replaced the EJ, and once again I tried different blades, only this time it was just the Feather that gave me a shave I felt was good enough.
But lately I have felt that there is something missing with the 34C and wanted to buy a new razor. I had no idea what though, and eventually fell down the rabbit hole of vintage DE razors.
Long story short, I ended up buying 8 vintage razors over a couple of days and the journey was started.

Yesterday the first razor arrived and it was one I bought "blind". The listing was sparse with info and the images were not great. I suspected that it might be a 60s Gillette Super Speed but I was far from certain in that assessment.
I'm still not 100% sure of the model, but I think it is actually a British Gillette Rocket Flare Tip. I have no idea about year.
The razor weighs 60g and is 84mm long which fits with the Rocket.
I also considered if it could be a British #80, the rhodium plated one, but the handle is wrong so I do not that is the case.
I forgot to upload the instructions that were included, so I'll add them in a later post, but they don't mention which model it is either.

Anyway, some images:

It had been almost a week since my last shave so it was high time for a new shave so this razor was put through its paces immediately.

The shaving experience was quite different compared to the Merkur 34C as I felt that the angle needed was quite different and also quite narrow. If I veered off then it got very rough, very quick. It's going to take a little bit to get used to.
I also felt that there was a lot more blade feel with this razor which was slightly scary considering I used a Feather blade.
I did three passes, WTG, XTG and finally ATG. XTG but especially ATG felt rough and it felt like I would cut myself badly several times, but that never happened of course.
Considering that it was a new razor, and also a new soap I had not used before, I suppose it's no surprise that I got a few smaller nicks and weepers.
Despite this, the result of the shave was surprisingly great. Big parts of my face ended up BBS and the rest were DFS. I have a couple of areas that usually need 4 passes to get BBS but with this razor they were closer to BBS after three compared to the result with the Merkur 34C.
Another thing that surprised me was how long the smoothness lasted. With the 34C my face starts feeling rough (SAS) after 10-12 hours and it's now been a bit more than 24 hours since I shaved and my face is now starting to have the same roughness.

Each shave I do with these razors will be documented and rated. In an upcoming post I'll show parts of my spreadsheet used for this, but I don't want to spoil the surprise just yet. I'll just say that I will do at minimum three shaves with each new razor to have more data for comparing the razors.

Speaking of spoilers and surprises, I received another razor today. But I will leave that for the next post.

Yours looks to be the standard plated version of this

The handle is a different knurling pattern as you have noted, but the cases match up, and we have the contemporary instruction leaflet in English. Font and styling look very similar.

Also they have the new Blue Gillette Extra blade. I think these came out in around 1960. The first coated Gillette blade trying to compete with the new English Wilkinson Sword process or was this slightly later?

Interesting that it is a Swedish exported model. First I've seen with the instructions. great example!

I read you already dated the razor by checking the accompanying blades. Nice move.

Rockets had the mechanical head screw which when opened, screws into the handle making it shorter. Super Speed handles do not change when opened. In my understanding, this was the difference. Gillette England made both Super Speed and Rocket style TTO's. There is an English Rocket Red Tip and a Super Speed Red Tip for example.

The II on the baseplate rear means medium aggression. Gillette England began marking razors I to III (high aggression) in the very late 50's.

 

[Guido75]

Since I'm naturally curious, what makes this a SuperSpeed Flare Tip and not a Rocket Flare Tip?

What Simon just said:

Rockets had the mechanical head screw which when opened, screws into the handle making it shorter. Super Speed handles do not change when opened. In my understanding, this was the difference.

+1 - I believe that’s the difference as well. Further I usually associate Rocket with the straight handle HD type of TTO. So learned something new as well.

And yes, I'm swedish and living in Sweden.

Then I assume you are a regular visitor of Tradera. Definitely need to check out a Swing or Matador. Excellent razors in my opinion.

Enjoy!

Guido

 

[Ohjay]

Yours looks to be the standard plated version of this

The handle is a different knurling pattern as you have noted, but the cases match up, and we have the contemporary instruction leaflet in English. Font and styling look very similar.

Also they have the new Blue Gillette Extra blade. I think these came out in around 1960. The first coated Gillette blade trying to compete with the new English Wilkinson Sword process or was this slightly later?

Interesting that it is a Swedish exported model. First I've seen with the instructions. great example!

I read you already dated the razor by checking the accompanying blades. Nice move.

Rockets had the mechanical head screw which when opened, screws into the handle making it shorter. Super Speed handles do not change when opened. In my understanding, this was the difference. Gillette England made both Super Speed and Rocket style TTO's. There is an English Rocket Red Tip and a Super Speed Red Tip for example.

The II on the baseplate rear means medium aggression. Gillette England began marking razors I to III (high aggression) in the very late 50's.

Thanks for the input and information.
Wording in the instructions match very well when translated, which makes me wonder if there might be rhodium plated ones with this type of handle.
It would also be interesting to see a '61 instruction leaflet for a standard Rocket to compare the wording (or if it's an entirely different look).

What Simon just said:

+1 - I believe that’s the difference as well. Further I usually associate Rocket with the straight handle HD type of TTO. So learned something new as well.

Then I assume you are a regular visitor of Tradera. Definitely need to check out a Swing or Matador. Excellent razors in my opinion.

Enjoy!

Guido

Yep, I check Tradera daily now to see if any new interesting razors show up.
Swing might be in the time line
Matador just recently got on my radar thanks to @blethenstrom so I'll add one of those to the shopping list

 

[Ohjay]

Update time!

Shaved with the Rocket last night and I'm not quite sure what was different but I got a much, much more comfortable shave. Not at all the struggle that I had the last time. In terms of shave quality I would say it's a very good DFS with patches of BBS.
Perhaps I'm a bit more used to the razor, but I think the main contributing factors for the better shave is the slightly used blade as well as that I was a bit more careful and mindful of my technique.

My plan is to do three shaves with each razor and blade combo, grade them by feel and rating, and then evaluate the results.
More blades are on the way and should hopefully be here by the end of the week.
As for razors, I guess it's time to unveil razor #2.

Unless I'm mistaken this is a Gillette NEW Long Comb. I can't see any date codes so year is unknown. There's only one blade included and I do not know if it's the original so I don't want to open it to check for date code. So if any of you have any ideas about year then I'm all ears.
It weighs 51g and is 81mm long.
One of the outer teeth is slightly bent which I knew when I bought it, but I don't think it will affect the shave.
It is in rougher condition than I was led to believe, but should be absolutely fine for shaving and evaluating.
First shave with this razor will be tomorrow.

As for my other purchases, they arrived in Sweden today so hopefully they will be here in a day or two.
I also happened to buy some more razors this weekend. It ended up being four new additions which should be here sometime this week. All of them are known except one and the unknown was bought under the assumption it was a Gillette, but I'm now fairly sure it's something completely different.

I had my eyes on a few more this past weekend but my assumption about a small market for vintage razors in Sweden was completely wrong.
There was an auction for a Tech Hybrid that I was really keen on. It had the case and blade holder as well and ended up selling for roughly $160 (USD). Perhaps cheap for a collector but for me that just want to try new variations it was too much.
Another auction that saw surprising action (to me at least) was for what seemed to be a Gillette New (possibly Short Comb) with case and blade holder, that ended up selling for approximately $150.
There was another Gillette Tech for sale in pristine condition which was in a promotion packaging featuring Sven Tumba (famous ice-hockey player from the 60s) that suprisingly enough went for very little (about $30). Another great collectible piece.

 

[Guido75]

That is indeed a NEW LC just to confirm.

 

[Ohjay]

That is indeed a NEW LC just to confirm.

Thank you for the confirmation. Any chance to figure out year, even if only approximate?

Of all the razors I have purchased in the last week or two, this is the one I am the most excited to try. Partly because the reviews are generally raving but mostly because it's an open comb, something I have never tried before.
As I mentioned yesterday, today was the day for trying out a shave with the Gillette NEW LC.

Now, keep in mind that this is a first shave with a, for me, completely new razor, and my very first experience with an open comb. I guess you can sense where this is going, and it's not pretty, not at all.
As with the Rocket I did three passes, WTG, XTG and ATG. Already with the WTG I started getting a lot of nicks and weepers. The open comb felt very weird and extremely difficult to find a good angle which is probably the main cause for all the nicks and weepers.
The XTG and ATG passes were more of the same and by the end my face looked like a battlefield. An alum block was not enough to stifle some of the worst weepers (probably actual cuts).
During this shave I could feel the skin almost burning. I have fairly sensitive skin and it was not happy with this shave. Not at all.
In terms of quality of the shave it felt like CCS immediately after shaving. It's now been about 90 minutes and it feels better, more like a DFS shave, but the skin is still quite sensitive and it feels very irritated.
The only good thing during this shave was actually the XTG and ATG passes below the chin and on the neck. They felt fairly smooth when shaving and with the other razors I've used it has felt more rough.
All in all, I don't think I've experienced a worse shave, it was an utter disaster. Almost to the point to where I don't even want to try it again, ever.

But, I know part of the reason for the rough shave is my technique and my inexperience with different razors types. So I can't solely blame the razor or the blade.
So up and at 'em. I will stick to my plan and do three shaves with this razor and blade combo, and maybe, just maybe I will get the experience that I had with the Rocket, that the third shave will be the best.

 

[blethenstrom]

Thank you for the confirmation. Any chance to figure out year, even if only approximate?

Of all the razors I have purchased in the last week or two, this is the one I am the most excited to try. Partly because the reviews are generally raving but mostly because it's an open comb, something I have never tried before.
As I mentioned yesterday, today was the day for trying out a shave with the Gillette NEW LC.

Now, keep in mind that this is a first shave with a, for me, completely new razor, and my very first experience with an open comb. I guess you can sense where this is going, and it's not pretty, not at all.
As with the Rocket I did three passes, WTG, XTG and ATG. Already with the WTG I started getting a lot of nicks and weepers. The open comb felt very weird and extremely difficult to find a good angle which is probably the main cause for all the nicks and weepers.
The XTG and ATG passes were more of the same and by the end my face looked like a battlefield. An alum block was not enough to stifle some of the worst weepers (probably actual cuts).
During this shave I could feel the skin almost burning. I have fairly sensitive skin and it was not happy with this shave. Not at all.
In terms of quality of the shave it felt like CCS immediately after shaving. It's now been about 90 minutes and it feels better, more like a DFS shave, but the skin is still quite sensitive and it feels very irritated.
The only good thing during this shave was actually the XTG and ATG passes below the chin and on the neck. They felt fairly smooth when shaving and with the other razors I've used it has felt more rough.
All in all, I don't think I've experienced a worse shave, it was an utter disaster. Almost to the point to where I don't even want to try it again, ever.

But, I know part of the reason for the rough shave is my technique and my inexperience with different razors types. So I can't solely blame the razor or the blade.
So up and at 'em. I will stick to my plan and do three shaves with this razor and blade combo, and maybe, just maybe I will get the experience that I had with the Rocket, that the third shave will be the best.

Sounds like my experience with the Fatip Grande OC that I had a handful of weeks ago. I have since brought it back out and the razor and I are making amends. Yes OCs are a different animal. Have to mind that pressure ever so and also I would not do full 3 passes to begin with it. You will get the hang of it though just stick with it.