I know that around 1750rpm are preferred, but would it be harmful to use the standard speed belt grinder of 3500 rpm? Any information is appreciated! Thanks.
Hi Zipvex... Can I assume you are talking about a grinder/buffer (with wheels) or do you really mean a belt sander? I'm going to guess grinder due to the rpm reference and, if so, no there's really not a problem with that. The true aim is to buff and polish with a particular disk/wheel edge speed measured in surface feet per second. The polishing wheel or buff (or sometimes the compound packaging) will often recommend a speed. The speed is the result of the machine's rpms, of course, but you also have to factor in the wheel diameter (and its outside circumference). So, two grinders with the same rpm will have different surface (edge) speeds with different sized wheels/buffs. A 10-inch disc will have a much higher surface speed than will a 6 or 4 inch, at the same rpm speed. So, if you have a 3500 or 3600rpm machine and it burns or is too fast, try using a smaller diameter wheel in it. Hope that makes sense.
Are you talking about a buffer/wheels or a belt grinder? What are your plans?
It will work. Just make sure you use a small will 2",3" or 4" wheel. Also be very careful. I have few different piece of equipment and to be honest, I feel like the buffer is one of the more dangerous one
I use a 3500 rpm grinder with 6" wheels with greaseless compounds for polishing and I have absolutely no issues. I clean until the blade seems warm to the touch and then dip in ice water to ensure no damage to the blade, dry with an old towel and repeat. It works beautifully and I have done no damage thus far. Good luck on you restos
Thanks this is what I was looking for. Gotta pick up some greaseless compounds. I am thinking grit wise - 80, 120, 180, 240.. What do you think about that?
Have you seen Brad's videos in the Restoration Stickys?
It depends on the condition of the razor. If you need to remove pitting or deep rust issues, then start at 60-80 and move up from there in a progression. Every jump helps alleviate the prior grinders scratches. I have been lucky and most of the razors I have acquired have minor surface scratching and have needed nothing grittier than 120 or 240. If the razors are in good condition and need nothing more than good clean and polish, or if you want to maintain the original factory grinding (like the Sheffield type,) rouge may work best. I always finish with black rouge on a demin wheel, white rouge (jewelers rouge) on a cotton wheel, then Mother's mag and aluminum polish to get a good deep reflective shine. This is just my technique, and seeing as there are far better restoration guys here on B&B, keep an open mind to all of your options.