I need a frag expert to conceptualize my interests

[bemiller]

For age reference, I am currently 24 and have been using cologne since I was about 13 in some way or another.

When I was in highschool I was really into cologne but I never had a huge variety. I went through several large bottles of Joop! pour Homme, a bottle of Mugler's A*men and as supplementals I used Claiborne's Curve Wave and Curve Chill. The Curve's to me were always a bit too synthetic and aquatic, not bad but nothing great. To me, at that time Joop! and Angel were just amazing.

Moving forward a few years, I did not wear cologne for about 5 years but came across 2 unused bottles of cologne my father had, Paco Rabanne pour Homme (original formulation) and Ralph Lauren Polo classic (green bottle/gold top). I immediately fell in love with the Paco Rabanne, it has just such a soapy masculine scent that really resonates with me. At first I could not stand the Polo and actually put it away because it was so heinous... however, I decided to give it another try today and actually quite enjoy the pine-y evergreen scent it has. Interestingly, it doesn't seem to have much longevity for me (I may have to experiment with the amount used as it's a splash not a spray and I am trying to be careful).

I went to Marshall's because I wanted to expand my repertoire at low cost and came across another 2 that I really enjoy, Geoffrey Beene's Grey Flannel and Giorgio Red. I know - they are VERY different. Grey Flannel at first sniff is Potent and seemingly toxic. But after about 20 to 30 minutes it becomes more of a linear fragrance that radiates powder and violets (2 scents I wouldn't normally adhere to, but it seems to work) in a powerful masculine composition. The Giorgio Red, on the other hand, reminds of Joop! pour Homme... oriental, sweet (not as sweet as Joop!) and fruity with good longevity and moderate sillage.

I went into Macy's and I asked for samples they had and she gave me an A*men sample, a cologne I have not worn in 8 years at least, I reapplied it and loved it more than ever, so I immediately ordered a bottle. There is something about the sweet and masculine overtones that project chocolate and coffee and caramel in a warm and not overbearing way that is so enticing about this fragrance to me.

Okay, so as you can tell I don't have much background in fragrance and can use some of the descriptive words loosely to describe scents. I have difficulty breaking frags down into elements and can't differentiate much between top notes, mid notes and base notes. I have a more holistic understanding, say... Paco Rabanne pour Homme and Grey flannel to me seem similar in their potent projection and sillage, long staying power and masculine qualities. Joop! and Giorgio are similar because they are both oriental and sweet and warm. Angel is somewhat independent as a more garmand fragrance and I can't seem to compare it to anything.

I currently have Lalique Encre Noir coming to me as well because it was so highly rated and I don't know anything about vetiver but it seemed like an awesome fragrance that was well received by many. I also have samplers of Drakkar Noir coming because this seemed like something along my line of interest with the darker, headier, heavier, potent masculine qualities.

My question: For whoever knows these scents that I really enjoy, can someone find some overarching thematic elements between them so I have some more direction for when I seek out colognes? Furthermore, based on what I've provided, does anyone have any suggestions for the future? I am currently on a spending sabbatical but it's nice to have some thing lined up, or something to research in the meantime.

 

[StylinLA]

I can't pick a theme out of those. You just like what you like, as many us do.

I would suggest you sample PG Coze.

 

[banditman]

Hmmm...maybe you just like powerhouse scents. If so, I'd recommend that you try Azzaro Pour Homme. It's a great classic that isn't expensive at all. Just go easy on the trigger at first until you see how it wears....

 

[GarrettReid]

Try YSL La Nuit de L'Homme. It's got a kind of dark sweetness to it you may like.

 

[Nick Danger]

I can't wait to hear what you think of Encre Noire. It's totally different than Polo or Grey Flannel or the other scents you mention. I like it, but like Chanel Sycomore even better for a vetiver scent.

Since I'm no fragrance expert, I can only suggest you try my current favorite: Terre de Hermes parfum. It's long-lasting (on me) and masculine and just delicious.

Nick

 

[Lamb Root]

Hello Ben. I'm a self claimed frag expert. I will need you to send all of your fragrances sent to my address and you will learn a lot from that alone. Also, if possible, buy me A BIG (250ml) bottle of Sycomore, Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, Le Vetiver by Lubin, Villoresi's Vetiver and Uomo (in oil) and if possible Profumum Roma Victrix. In return, I'll send you a 2 ml sample of each so that you could decide what suits best.

 

[jakespoppy]

Welcome to the frag forum, Ben. You've done a great job of describing the scents you like, and with providing some helpful insight for us to work with as you've reqeusted.

I would agree with Mike, you seem to like powerful scents with strong projection and staying power, across several types of scents that include classic barbershop style and gourmands, and you didn't like the lighter, fresh aquatic scents you tried. There are a lot of scents that fit the bold, strong project, long staying power mold like those you like. You'll read about a lot of them here in the forum. Some examples that come to mind include, in alphabetical order:

In the less than $50/bottle price range:
Azzaro pour Homme already recommended
Aramis (another classic like Polo green)
Bijan Men
Bulgari Black
Caron 3rd Man
Rive Gauche
Davidoff Zino
Givenchy Gentleman
Halston Z-14
Halston Z 1-12
Narcisco Rodriquez for Men
Paul Sebastian PS
Pierre Cardin pour Homme
Puig Quorum
Royall Vetiver
Tabac Cologne or Aftershave
--------------------
In the $50 to $100/bottle price range:
Dior Homme
Guerlain Vetiver
Guerlain Habit Rouge
Guerlain Heritage
Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur
Knize Ten
Parfums de Nicolai New York
---------------------
In the less than more than $100/bottle price range:
Creed Bois du Portugal
Guerlain Derby
Hermes Bel Ami
Hermes Equipage
Hermes Rocabar
Mazzolari Lui
MPG Parfum D'Habit

Keep in mind, in many cases you don't need to shell out the bucks for a full bottle, you can buy a decant for a lot less. And since you are using and trying so many, a decant size will probably be plenty.

 

[jakespoppy]

And if those suggestions aren't helpful, Ben, you can always take Ivan's suggestion!

Ivan, your willingness to help in such a selfless, sacrificial way is inspiring!

 

[Matt555]

My question: For whoever knows these scents that I really enjoy, can someone find some overarching thematic elements between them so

Honestly, no. You are all over the place. You like Paco and Polo Green, but also like A Men......worlds apart. And somehow Grey Flanel ends up in the mix as well? This is good and bad news. The good news is that you will have an easier time finding fragrances you like to add your collection. The bad news is, you are just going to have to sample and try them in order to find them.

However, if you are looking for a specific "type" of fragrance, say a spicy one, or a citrus one, people here can be of great help. All you need to do is post a thread describing what you might be after and you will get some great suggestions.

There are two members in the vendor area that sell decants (Garry and Archerfire). You may want to look through what they have and order a bunch to try out.

 

[Lamb Root]

I have difficulty breaking frags down into elements and can't differentiate much between top notes, mid notes and base notes. I have a more holistic understanding, say...

Ben, many of us do. Don't take it personally. I enjoyed your post this evening, it's dynamic, honest, colorful and very descriptive. I only scanned it this morning and I got the vetiver vibe. Vetiver is fine. In pursuit of a sublime fougere, on the other side, make sure that you don't bypass English Fern, Absolument homme, Thé Brun, Azzaro, Fougere Royale (doesn't the last one sound like a winner?).
Luckily there is not such a thing as the best scent of them all. But a way of finding the one that is near is a way that will teach you that you may never ever trust a person like

And if those suggestions aren't helpful, Ben, you can always take Ivan's suggestion!

Ivan, your willingness to help in such a selfless, sacrificial way is inspiring!

Randy, I knew that you'll see right through me. That Ormonde Jayne you willfully use is a thorn in my heart. I decided to mend my ways if you send me whatever you have left of the bottle and I'll be even more helpful, about 13,5%.

 

[bemiller]

I would suggest you sample PG Coze.

Thank you I will read reviews

Hmmm...maybe you just like powerhouse scents. If so, I'd recommend that you try Azzaro Pour Homme. It's a great classic that isn't expensive at all. Just go easy on the trigger at first until you see how it wears....

I think I definitely do like powerhouse scents... especially because honestly, I have no preconceived notions about any of them so to me it's all novel. I think there's something to be said about such highly regarded and historically well known fragrances.

Try YSL La Nuit de L'Homme. It's got a kind of dark sweetness to it you may like.

Thank you, I will read up on it. Those seem to be elements I really enjoy.

I can't wait to hear what you think of Encre Noire. It's totally different than Polo or Grey Flannel or the other scents you mention. I like it, but like Chanel Sycomore even better for a vetiver scent.

Since I'm no fragrance expert, I can only suggest you try my current favorite: Terre de Hermes parfum. It's long-lasting (on me) and masculine and just delicious.

Nick

So I received it in the mail today actually about 10 minutes before reading these responses and immediately sprayed it on my neck and wrists (2 sprays). You're right, its like nothing I've smelled before. The opening is potent. It's a very raw, organic, unadulterated woody/smoky scent, very campfire-esque. While there are no topnotes, the opening midnotes are quite bitter and almost sour, but not a rancid sour, like a unripe kind of sour. It was almost bordering on unappealing and it took a few minutes to get used to what I was just smacked in the face with. However, within about 15 minutes E.N. became a sweeter, smoky wood scent, but not a burnt scent, like when you burn a very nice scented wood at a campfire and your clothes smell like that after, but not a "dirty" smoke smell. It is actually quite refreshing and has a subtle floral hint behind the smoke and wood. I went to the gym and when I was working out I would continue to smell this wonderful scent radiating from me. Now this was interesting, at one point I sniffed my wrist and I literally felt star-struck. I felt an extreme endorphin rush and my heart rate increased. It was so unusual, it was one of the most beautiful things I had smelled, I have never been floored like that from scent. Now, the downside is that after about 3 hours I did not feel that it was projecting very well, I was still getting skin-level scent which was very nice but I was not getting the sillage I was getting before. I may have to increase the sprays or change where I'm spraying and see what happens.

Hello Ben. I'm a self claimed frag expert. I will need you to send all of your fragrances sent to my address and you will learn a lot from that alone. Also, if possible, buy me A BIG (250ml) bottle of Sycomore, Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, Le Vetiver by Lubin, Villoresi's Vetiver and Uomo (in oil) and if possible Profumum Roma Victrix. In return, I'll send you a 2 ml sample of each so that you could decide what suits best.

How kind!

Welcome to the frag forum, Ben. You've done a great job of describing the scents you like, and with providing some helpful insight for us to work with as you've reqeusted.

I would agree with Mike, you seem to like powerful scents with strong projection and staying power, across several types of scents that include classic barbershop style and gourmands, and you didn't like the lighter, fresh aquatic scents you tried. There are a lot of scents that fit the bold, strong project, long staying power mold like those you like. You'll read about a lot of them here in the forum. Some examples that come to mind include, in alphabetical order:

In the less than $50/bottle price range:
Azzaro pour Homme already recommended
Aramis (another classic like Polo green)
Bijan Men
Bulgari Black
Caron 3rd Man
Rive Gauche
Davidoff Zino
Givenchy Gentleman
Halston Z-14
Halston Z 1-12
Narcisco Rodriquez for Men
Paul Sebastian PS
Pierre Cardin pour Homme
Puig Quorum
Royall Vetiver
Tabac Cologne or Aftershave
--------------------
In the $50 to $100/bottle price range:
Dior Homme
Guerlain Vetiver
Guerlain Habit Rouge
Guerlain Heritage
Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur
Knize Ten
Parfums de Nicolai New York
---------------------
In the less than more than $100/bottle price range:
Creed Bois du Portugal
Guerlain Derby
Hermes Bel Ami
Hermes Equipage
Hermes Rocabar
Mazzolari Lui
MPG Parfum D'Habit

Keep in mind, in many cases you don't need to shell out the bucks for a full bottle, you can buy a decant for a lot less. And since you are using and trying so many, a decant size will probably be plenty.

Wow this is amazing, thanks so much for providing such a considerable list for me.

And if those suggestions aren't helpful, Ben, you can always take Ivan's suggestion!

Ivan, your willingness to help in such a selfless, sacrificial way is inspiring!

lol

Honestly, no. You are all over the place. You like Paco and Polo Green, but also like A Men......worlds apart. And somehow Grey Flanel ends up in the mix as well? This is good and bad news. The good news is that you will have an easier time finding fragrances you like to add your collection. The bad news is, you are just going to have to sample and try them in order to find them.

However, if you are looking for a specific "type" of fragrance, say a spicy one, or a citrus one, people here can be of great help. All you need to do is post a thread describing what you might be after and you will get some great suggestions.

There are two members in the vendor area that sell decants (Garry and Archerfire). You may want to look through what they have and order a bunch to try out.

I kind of recognize that I was all over the place and I do seem to be pretty liberal, however, I'm finding that I am not fond of overly synthetic or one-dimension types of fragrances. I have always been someone who gravitates towards quality over quantity and when I present myself I feel as if I need to project refined class and taste. By no means do I have money to burn, but if I am going to buy products I want them to be distinguishable, unique and of quality.

Furthermore, I can definitely identify the overarching themes of each individual frag I do use, and certainly with the help of the forum, basenotes and fragrantica, I can further narrow my focus. And I absolutely intend on using the board to learn more about my own interest and those of others.

Thank you for the vendor suggestions!

Ben, many of us do. Don't take it personally. I enjoyed your post this evening, it's dynamic, honest, colorful and very descriptive. I only scanned it this morning and I got the vetiver vibe. Vetiver is fine. In pursuit of a sublime fougere, on the other side, make sure that you don't bypass English Fern, Absolument homme, Thé Brun, Azzaro, Fougere Royale (doesn't the last one sound like a winner?).
Luckily there is not such a thing as the best scent of them all. But a way of finding the one that is near is a way that will teach you that you may never ever trust a person like Randy, I knew that you'll see right through me. That Ormonde Jayne you willfully use is a thorn in my heart. I decided to mend my ways if you send me whatever you have left of the bottle and I'll be even more helpful, about 13,5%.

Thank you for the feedback. I am glad you enjoyed reading my post, I tried to provide some information for you to work with despite the inconsistencies in my own unrefined tastes. That's interesting that you thought vetiver. As I am currently wearing my newly purchased blind-buy Encre Noir, I think that vetiver is a scent that I do very much enjoy. I will absolutely look at this list of frags you have suggested.

And I think for now, I will not be sending any of my colognes to you guys. However, as you all seem to have such expansive knowledge, I will gladly except decants of all noted, listed and suggested colognes in this thread .

 

[Renato1]

Most of the scents you mentioned are listed on the old H&R Chart at
www.leffingwell.com/h%26rfragrance/poster_genealogie_masculin.pdf

Download it and, if possible, print it out on A3 paper. You'll get some idea of what has been grabbing you.

That said, I used that chart to force myself to pick scents different to the categories I was partial to - else I was winding up with a stack of fresh fougeres and ambery fougeres.
Regards,
Renato

 

[bemiller]

Most of the scents you mentioned are listed on the old H&R Chart at
www.leffingwell.com/h%26rfragrance/poster_genealogie_masculin.pdf

Download it and, if possible, print it out on A3 paper. You'll get some idea of what has been grabbing you.

That said, I used that chart to force myself to pick scents different to the categories I was partial to - else I was winding up with a stack of fresh fougeres and ambery fougeres.
Regards,
Renato

That's amazing, thank you so much! I do very well with visual representations.

 

[Renato1]

That's amazing, thank you so much! I do very well with visual representations.

You're welcome. There are other fragrance categorisation systems around, all have their strengths and weaknesses. What I liked most about the H&R Chart was their Ambery Fougere classification. The scents within it always grabbed my nose. But those scents are variously classified as fresh orientals, woody orientals, of woody something or other in the other systems, which makes them hard to distinguish from regular orientals - which to my nose they are plainly very different from.

Have fun nutting it out. You can also download the equivalent female chart, but I find the women's scents pretty dull.
Regards,
Renato

 

[coloradomonkey]

Hmmm...maybe you just like powerhouse scents. If so, I'd recommend that you try Azzaro Pour Homme. It's a great classic that isn't expensive at all. Just go easy on the trigger at first until you see how it wears....

+1

 

[bemiller]

L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent is the cologne of a man who is young and virile, yet mature and sophisticated at the same time.

Looks interesting, reviews on basenotes make it seem just generally pleasant.

Also, I feel like Azzaro is an inevitable must just due to the overwhelming positive reviews and I think it is the #1 suggestion.

 

[rickcharles606]

L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent is the cologne of a man who is young and virile, yet mature and sophisticated at the same time.

Just picked this one up myself and love it, the best part is that SWMBO loves it as well. Also, it's quite affordable.