I have a newer nicer one on the way for use when I'm comfortable. I was thinking about it and how i haven't even come close to cutting my poor man's strop yet. I said to myself, "Well, I guess I'm fine. I won't cut it like they say beginners usually do." Ten minutes later I stropped my razor just to practice and I put a nice cut in it. I just cut off what seems like the "skin" in the middle of it, just a thin layer. Can I sand this down and continue use or do I need a new one? There's nothing to really glue back together, I just took a thin slice of skin off of it.
I cut my strop
- Thread starter blackhhawk
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If you think you can get it level and smooth again, it'd be worth a shot to sand. Otherwise, for the price, I'd say get a new one.
I'm a klutz when it comes to cutting strops as well and I have three years experience. What happens most often is that I try to go too fast, and also I'm tired or not alert.
What I've done is try to go slowly to minimize the damage, even when I feel I'm in rhythm and can go faster.
I have a Tony Miller and Straight Razor Designs strop I won't use until I get better. For now I have a Big Daddy English Bridle strop from Star Shaving because it is cheaper and am trying to mend my destructive ways with that one. You can get replacement leather from them for $21.95, which makes a cut less expensive to replace. I'm on my third leather on that strop.
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I have a big daddy on the way as well. I guess I will just be extra careful with it and maybe will order a backup. As you said , not too expensive.
Great strop and replacement leather isn't hurtful so if you screw it up *coughs* like I did a new piece won't break the bank.
pics would help
You didn't ask me, but I'll show you a picture of my handiwork. I had the leather for two months without injuring it, then honed at least 7 razors and got tired. My brain and my hands weren't on the same page and this resulted:
Boy, I was discouraged! I try real hard not to rush, but after honing a razor I do 100 strokes to make sure any debris is cleared off the edge. When you get to the 700th stroke you're pooped and are prone to mistakes.
I had the mistaken impression as a beginner that stropping needed to be done fast because I saw videos of people whacking away at high speed. I think I have finally convinced myself that I'm not coordinated enough to ever be a speedy stropper.
For a cut like that, were you moving the blade at an angle to the strop? Like in an X pattern? I only ask because the videos only show people NOT messing up their strops. You never see videos of people slicing them. I'm an SR virgin, so I'm still trying to understand what's going on that could put the leather at such peril.
The small ones are not too bad and you could turn the strop around (swap top / bottom) but that larger nick is.... large.
It is hard to tell from just the photo but you might be stropping a bit too hard. Digging in that far into the leather should have just stopped the razor before it got that deep. Stropping is usually a pretty low pressure job; if you need to strop that hard it might be time to put in a few strokes on a hone or pasted paddle. Just a thought.
Brian
It is hard to tell from just the photo but you might be stropping a bit too hard. Digging in that far into the leather should have just stopped the razor before it got that deep. Stropping is usually a pretty low pressure job; if you need to strop that hard it might be time to put in a few strokes on a hone or pasted paddle. Just a thought.
Brian
I don't really strop hard (although I used to), but when I try to go too fast or get tired I begin my reverse stroke before I have the blade in position and it digs in the leather. When I first started I turned my wrists back and forth and there were fewer cuts, but I just "had" to learn to do it without turning the wrists and that's when I began having trouble. It may also be because I'm part righty and part lefty. I write left-handed and throw a ball right-handed. I just couldn't strop with my left hand, so what I had to do is move the blade my natural right-handed way and convert to being right-handed in flipping the blade.
I have thought many times about a paddle strop, but I'm stubborn and for some reason want to master the beast because that's the traditional way in the movies. One thing I have done is get a balsa strop with CrOx and another with diamond paste and use it immediately after honing. I also start with 30 strokes on the linen before stropping the leather. That probably reduces the friction when stropping on leather.
I have thought many times about a paddle strop, but I'm stubborn and for some reason want to master the beast because that's the traditional way in the movies. One thing I have done is get a balsa strop with CrOx and another with diamond paste and use it immediately after honing. I also start with 30 strokes on the linen before stropping the leather. That probably reduces the friction when stropping on leather.
I started with a 3" strop and staying with one because back and forth is hard enough without the X pattern.
My hand-eye coordination is likely the culprit because when I'm tired or in a hurry the blade is not in position when I switch from forward to backwards.
Your comment about never seeing anyone messing up strops on video is a good one because it gives you the impression that there's nothing to it. Between shaving, honing, and stropping, I have found stropping the most difficult to master.
The best way I have found to protect your strop is to go slow.
That is interesting about which hand you use to strop- I would have thought you (everyone) would use the 'writing' hand to hold the razor. I am not saying it is the right way or anything, just that that is what I would have expected. I am strongly right handed so there is no choice for me.... if I was to try stropping left handed I think the strop cuts would be the least of my problems, and the grout lines in the bathroom would take a beating.
I agree with you about stropping slower but I find it impossible not to speed up myself. The first few laps are OK but then it just seems natural that the process should be going faster.
I have not seen anyone mention it so far but I find some razors much easier to strop than others. Heavy razors with a thumb notch are the toughest for me while light and narrow (5/8" or a bit less) razors with a thin shank and jimps on both sides are the easiest. Changing razors and continuing to strop is especially tough I find because of the tendency to go faster after stropping for a bit.
Brian
I agree with you about stropping slower but I find it impossible not to speed up myself. The first few laps are OK but then it just seems natural that the process should be going faster.
I have not seen anyone mention it so far but I find some razors much easier to strop than others. Heavy razors with a thumb notch are the toughest for me while light and narrow (5/8" or a bit less) razors with a thin shank and jimps on both sides are the easiest. Changing razors and continuing to strop is especially tough I find because of the tendency to go faster after stropping for a bit.
Brian
The razors that are the hardest for me to strop are the ones with loose pivot pins. I agree that jimps make it easier and wonder why all razors don't have jimps top and bottom. I prefer smaller razors to meat choppers so that's to my advantage for stropping. One thing I'm going to have to learn to do is to re-pin and re-scale because I have some loose ones that are difficult to use.
These threads are bad luck to read. 
These threads are bad luck to read.
Not everyone is a klutz like I am. BTW, I just love those Shaptons I bought from you. Hope you're enjoying the hones you moved on to just as much.
John, very glad to hear it. I'm using all natural stones now, except for one Chosera... I have tendency to want to try new ones all the time, though.
EEK!! That looks like the giant slice I put in my Star Shaving Big Daddy strop. Those mistakes are like getting a dent in a new car, that sinking stomach feeling. Were you able to get it sanded out even if the leather is a bit thinner in that spot or is the strop toast?
I worked on it and used it a little while, but in reality it was ruined. I replaced it about a month later. After sanding and neatsfoot oil it looked like this:
The pivot pin can usually be tightened a bit with a hammer and an anvil (or similar heavy piece of steel like a vice plate). A very gentle tap or two usually works. Of course there is always the risk of a cracked scale(s) so if it is a family heirloom or a particularly valuable razor it might be best to leave it alone.
You and I must be the only ones that prefer the smaller razors- the current trend in razors seems to be approaching the size of an ax head. I have an old meat cleaver that I have not even finished honing yet just because I am not looking forward to shaving with it; if not for the RAD I would not even own it but there it was, whispering to me that it was lonely and wanted to spend time with other razors....
I do not agree with the klutz part though- I think everyone has a strop or two that looks like the dog was a little bit angry with it and I am not sure anyone ever gets entirely away from the occasional edge bite on a strop.
Brian
You and I must be the only ones that prefer the smaller razors- the current trend in razors seems to be approaching the size of an ax head. I have an old meat cleaver that I have not even finished honing yet just because I am not looking forward to shaving with it; if not for the RAD I would not even own it but there it was, whispering to me that it was lonely and wanted to spend time with other razors....
I do not agree with the klutz part though- I think everyone has a strop or two that looks like the dog was a little bit angry with it and I am not sure anyone ever gets entirely away from the occasional edge bite on a strop.
Brian
