How to make gold dollar shave-ready with naniwa supers

[BJJ]

Hey guys, i received naniwa super stones and never made one SR shave-ready before, i saw many videos, red some articles, but many routines does not match with my arsenal, witch is...

1, 3/8, 12 k - naniwa super stone

dmt 325 for flatten.

I tried to set the bevel like lynn does in his youtube video and so far it worked a little, i could pop the hairs out of my arm... then he moved to the 5k witch i do not have and then messed all the process...the next one i would have would be 3/8k...

although i red many articles and saw many videos, i still dont know when the bevel is 100% and i should move to the upper stone, than what s your suggestion of one honing routine with this arsenal I have...

hope you guys can help me make this razor shave ready


regards...


mike

 

[Obiwan]

First, can I ask if you modified the GD at all prior to honing? They do require some mild attention before you can take them to the stones properly.

 

[sychodelix]

Gotta grind down the shoulder first, at minimum.

 

[Kentos]

A pic of the razor would help a bunch. Some Gold Dollars need a lot of TLC, others are great right out of the box.

 

[BakerAndBadger]

Once the shoulder is gone you can go at it. Slash posted a great piece of advice, 100 single sided x strokes until you have a burr the full length of the edge, flip the razor and do the same, once you reach the burr again on the whole edge go to normal x strokes to eliminate the burr and try it on our arm. This is now the way I always set my bevels on new razors.
if you need more explanation I'm sure slash will be along shortly once he sees the words gold and dollar

 

[cb91710]

I never had any luck following Lynn's procedures.
Not enough passes before moving on, and there is no reason to move up and down in grit.
If you're done at 1k, you're done at 1k and there's no reason to go back to it after moving up to 4k.

But I generally run a minimum of 50 passes per grit and usually more.

You don't have to follow his exact progression... My progression was 1200, 4k, 8k, 12k.
You've got a bit larger jump from 3k to 8k, but if you spend enough time at each level, you'll be fine.

Just stick with a grit until the blade is consistently undercutting water along the full length of the blade on both sides.

 

[Doc226]

I never had any luck following Lynn's procedures.
Not enough passes before moving on, and there is no reason to move up and down in grit.
If you're done at 1k, you're done at 1k and there's no reason to go back to it after moving up to 4k.

But I generally run a minimum of 50 passes per grit and usually more.

You don't have to follow his exact progression... My progression was 1200, 4k, 8k, 12k.
You've got a bit larger jump from 3k to 8k, but if you spend enough time at each level, you'll be fine.

Just stick with a grit until the blade is consistently undercutting water along the full length of the blade on both sides.

I could not agree more, the "pyramids" make absolutely no sense.

Wood workers do not do pyramids when sanding. The purpose of each step is to remove the scratches made from the previous stone, going to a coarser stone just reintroduces more scratches.

 

[Proinsias]

If the op is talking about Lynn's recent Naniwa SS video I don't think there was any pyramids to be found.

I find when getting to know a stone, jumping back and forth between grits a little at first is handy to get a feel for when the time is ripe to move.

 

[cb91710]

If the op is talking about Lynn's recent Naniwa SS video I don't think there was any pyramids to be found.

I was referring to his DVD (which still has some good information and it resides "permanently" in my spare DVD drive).

I find when getting to know a stone, jumping back and forth between grits a little at first is handy to get a feel for when the time is ripe to move.

Perhaps when getting a feel, but not as a routine part of sharpening.
One of my biggest issues with Lynn's DVD process is he presents it almost as if it is set in stone. He gives the number of passes, then indicates maybe 5 extra for a stainless blade.
He doesn't indicate that the number of needed passes can vary by a LOT, depending on the honer's pressure, the stone, blade, condition of the edge, etc.
Perhaps 15 or 20 passes per grit work for him, but it's nowhere close for me. I might undercut slurry at 20 passes, but not water.

But....
When you sell and hone blades for a living, you don't have the luxury of being able to spend an hour or more on a single blade.

 

[Slash McCoy]

+1 on the pyramiding. All that backy-forthy with the grits is not needed IF you just get each stage right the first time. Which is why it works best for some guys. Maybe Mr. Junior Honemeister doesn't quite get a good bevel end to end, for instance. The second set of laps on the 1k will maybe be enough that the bevel is set properly. I really don't see how an experienced honer benefits from going up and down and up and down the progression.

Some GDs do hone up okay right out of the box, but not many. Every time I tried to do a #66 without at least removing the stabilizer I was disappointed.

1, 3, 8, and 12k Nani SS will make a perfectly acceptable progression. BUT... you will very likely need to remove that stabilizer and fair the shoulder. Also the spine is a bit thick giving a very obtuse bevel angle, so I like to thin the spine down to where I can expect to end up with a 16 to 16.5 degree bevel angle. I also like to straighten the edge for future ease of honing and because I just plain like a straight edge. And sometimes I like to do a barber's notch. Anyway even if there are no shoulder or spine issues, with a new razor of such amateurish grind, you will want an initial session to begin with a coarse stone such as a 300 grit diamond plate from the $12 set that Harbor Freight sells. Or a 325 DMT or even a very flat carborundum or AlOx stone. You will wear a belly in your 1k SS trying to set that first bevel on a GD.

The best tool for shoulder grinding that I have found, in terms of cost effectiveness, is a cheap Dremel type rotary tool and the Dremel sanding drum attachments. They work much better on heat treated steel than stone tools. This is what most everybody uses. Harbor Freight sells a nice heavy duty Dremel knockoff pretty cheap. Truth is, I get a lot of stuff from there. Anyway there are plenty of threads you can search for on modding Gold Dollars. Of course you can just give it a go and try to hone it first. If you are successful, then you are successful. Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you.