Can anyone tell me the correct sequence for loading a blade/adjusting a Fatboy, please?
How to load a Fatboy?
- Thread starter velvetgoldmine
- Start date
To load a blade into a Fatboy, twist the TTO(twist to open) mechanism at the bottom of the handle, the silo doors will open, allowing you to place the blade in the head. Adjust the settings before you close up the silo doors. When you close the silo doors via the TTO, once the doors are fully closed, gived the TTo an extra 1/4 turn or so to lock in place. If you want to change the settings agains, open the doors slightly before making adjustments, then close doors as before. Rinse, lather, repeat.
Exactly what he said. Be sure to adjust the settings before the doors are closed.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thank you very much.
Same goes for a Slim.
Don't forget the Super Adjustable also 
<trivia>
Just to make a distinction about that "extra 1/4 turn":
Has anyone else noticed there are some Fat Boys that have a black rubber grommet/spacer under the numbers dial and some that don't?
I own one of each. The one with the rubber goes the extra 1/4.
Did ALL Fat Boys originally have the rubber?
<\trivia>
Just to make a distinction about that "extra 1/4 turn":
Has anyone else noticed there are some Fat Boys that have a black rubber grommet/spacer under the numbers dial and some that don't?
I own one of each. The one with the rubber goes the extra 1/4.
Did ALL Fat Boys originally have the rubber?
<\trivia>
Didn't this get debunked some weeks ago? What is the evidence for loosening/opening the doors while adjusting?
Thanks,
-- Chet
I'm not sure what may have been said some weeks ago . . . I don't remember reading the post.
In my opinion, it is essential to open the razor before adjusting.
Think about the mechanics involved - dialing to a higher number causes the adjuster plate to push upward on the blade to increase the gap. If the blade is "locked down" (that extra quarter turn to snug the spring) there is no room for blade movement. Now the adjuster plate, collar, and indent spring are under excessive load, which over time will relieve itself by bending the plate. The downward pressure on the adjustment collar threads also leads to excessive wear in the threads.
Dialing to a lower number will not involve the stress to the adjustment mechanism, but will cause the blade to then be slightly loose, since the TTO can then be turned against the spring some more. Shaving with a loose blade is never good . . .
Each click of the adjuster changes the blade gap by about .0025", which is a very small amount. It wouldn't take much of a bend or wear to change the adjustment dynamics of the razor.
For me, the few seconds it would take to loosen the razor first is not a problem. In reality, I set my adjustables on '5' and only change the setting when I am cleaning the razor . . . never during a shave!
Of course, I could be wrong . . .
I'm waiting for my first Super Adjustable. I understand this "extra 1/4 turn" thing only apply to Fatboys?
Nope. I e-mailed Gillette directly and they said you can adjust at will. Won't hurt a thing.
Plus the instruction manual never mentioned it either - IIRC. If it would have hurt something I think Gillette would have mentioned it in the manual so they wouldn't be flooded with returns.
Plus the instruction manual never mentioned it either - IIRC. If it would have hurt something I think Gillette would have mentioned it in the manual so they wouldn't be flooded with returns.
Yea!! Another tighten before/after closing adjustable thread!
To summarize the last thread - do whatever you want, it's your razor, but you're not doing it the right way.
-jim
It applies to Slims also, not sure about the Super Adjustable.
How hard is it to turn this last 1/4 turn on a Slim. I just recently got one and thought it wasn't too hard. Then I boiled the razor and hit it with some Scrubbing Bubbles and I'd swear it's harder to turn. When my hands were wet I couldn't turn it with one hand on the handle and one on the TTO knob.
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Does it mean you don't hear the audible click until you do that 1/4 turn? I've never used an adjustable but I've understood that click tells you when it's set.
Not on the Slim, you hear the clicks with the adjuster. Then you tighten the TTO, when it seems tight, it goes another 1/4 turn.
I have no idea if the Super Adjustable works the same way or not. Somebody here should be able to chime in with that info.
I have no idea if the Super Adjustable works the same way or not. Somebody here should be able to chime in with that info.
Click is simply a detent index. A broken, bent, or worn spring may not make a loud click. The detent keeps the adjuster collar from turning while the razor is being tightened.
SA works the same as Fat Boy and Slim. The extra turn, against a spring, compensates for the different blade gaps and keeps the blade locked.
I'm surprised (and rather amazed) that someone at Gillette would respond! Chances are nobody still works there that was employed during the Adjustable era.
Saunterer is correct that the instructions do not mention it. Thanks to Achim and the outstanding Mr-razor.com website, we can research the instructions in several different languages!! Mr. Razor ROCKS!!!
Long time ago in a far-away career I used to read, review, and write technical manuals and instruction sets. Believe me, not everything is spelled out in "The Manual," and some details are purposely left out. Can't say if that theory applies here or not . . .
I was quoting anecdotal evidence passed down from other members who's opinions and experience I greatly admire and respect. That, added to my own observations, leads me to never attempt adjustment while the blade is locked.
But, Gearchow said it best:
(I'll go take my medicine now . . .)
Yea!! Another tighten before/after closing adjustable thread!
To summarize the last thread - do whatever you want, it's your razor, but you're not doing it the right way.
-jim
+1
You'll find that it is a common point of contention around here. To assume damage to your razor is to assume that the blade (which is designed to flex) is stronger than the mechanical pieces of your razor (which are not designed to flex, in most instances). Gillette's own original instructions are very vague on the issue, but seem to imply that adjustments can be made "on the fly"...depending on interpretation. Personally, I do it both ways, depending on my mood. How's that for noncommittal?
Either way, someone will disagree. As with all things in these parts, YMMV.
- Steve
+1
You'll find that it is a common point of contention around here. To assume damage to your razor is to assume that the blade (which is designed to flex) is stronger than the mechanical pieces of your razor (which are not designed to flex, in most instances).
- Steve
Well, darn it . . . that interesting observation never crossed my pea brain . . .
Click . . . buzz . . . sputter . . . flash . . . MELTDOWN SEQUENCE BEGINS IN <FIVE> <FOUR> <THREE> <TWO> <ONE>
I'm not sure what may have been said some weeks ago . . . I don't remember reading the post.
In my opinion, it is essential to open the razor before adjusting.
Think about the mechanics involved - dialing to a higher number causes the adjuster plate to push upward on the blade to increase the gap. If the blade is "locked down" (that extra quarter turn to snug the spring) there is no room for blade movement. Now the adjuster plate, collar, and indent spring are under excessive load, which over time will relieve itself by bending the plate. The downward pressure on the adjustment collar threads also leads to excessive wear in the threads.
Dialing to a lower number will not involve the stress to the adjustment mechanism, but will cause the blade to then be slightly loose, since the TTO can then be turned against the spring some more. Shaving with a loose blade is never good . . .
Each click of the adjuster changes the blade gap by about .0025", which is a very small amount. It wouldn't take much of a bend or wear to change the adjustment dynamics of the razor.
For me, the few seconds it would take to loosen the razor first is not a problem. In reality, I set my adjustables on '5' and only change the setting when I am cleaning the razor . . . never during a shave!
Of course, I could be wrong . . .
You're not wrong. You're exactly right.
+1
You'll find that it is a common point of contention around here. To assume damage to your razor is to assume that the blade (which is designed to flex) is stronger than the mechanical pieces of your razor (which are not designed to flex, in most instances). Gillette's own original instructions are very vague on the issue, but seem to imply that adjustments can be made "on the fly"...depending on interpretation. Personally, I do it both ways, depending on my mood. How's that for noncommittal?
As with all things in these parts, YMMV.
- Steve
No, that's not the point. The point is that the plates that push up on the blade are pushing against the silo doors that have been tightened down. If the doors are closed tight, then adjusting to a higher setting pushes the plates up into the doors. That's the problem, and that forcing of the the mechanism is what most of us want to avoid with razors that are 50 years old
I would like to see my fatboys still being used by someone 50 years from now and forcing the mechanism is in my view, not the way to do it.
